Front Universal Joint on Front tail shaft. (Gearbox end!!)

[karlblues2]

Help!!!
My front tailshaft universal joint has collapsed. I am told that you can't replace just the uni-joint, the whole tailshaft assemby needs replacing @ $1100 bucks plus!! The universal joints through Repco are around $150 but apparently these cannot be fitted (and Land Rover don't list them) and the whole unit requires replacement. Please help! Is this true?? If so, where can I get one from quickly?
Cheers
Karl
(MY2003 Disco HSE V8)

[Tombie]

Go to HardiSpicer and get a H/duty unit fitted.
No more issues ever!

[karlblues2]

Go to HardiSpicer and get a H/duty unit fitted.
No more issues ever!
Do you mean H/Duty universal joint or heavy duty complete assembly?
And who are HardiSpicer?
Cheers for quick response
Karl

[karlblues2]

OK peeps
Just to clarify. The universal joint needs replacing and although I can buy just the joint, I am told I need the whole tailshaft assembly.
As there is a 10 fold difference in cost, my question is obviously one of whether the whole tailshaft HAS to be replaced on these, and if so, where can I get one from. As it's up on the hoist at the moment, early responses appreciated!!
Cheers
Karl

[stevep]

Karl,

thats probably a typical Canberra price. try Melb. for a better answer. Also have a look at urban panser's web site (member on this site) - www.discovery2.co.uk / Workshop :- front and Rear propshaft (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/propshafts.html). he has some part numbers that might be of use.

Steve

[karlblues2]

Thanks Steve. Is it true that I need the whole assembly though? Never heard of that before when its only the unijoint...
Cheers
Karl

[Ferret]

All parts of the front drive shaft are available. You can repair it yourself if you buy the parts. You can take it to a drive shaft specialists for reconditioning or you can buy complete reconditioned drive shafts off the shelf from some independent landrover specialist.

If you look through some previous posts on this subject you will find the specific part numbers you need.

[stevep]

Karl,

I haven't done any work to the prop shaft on mine yet, but would think that you would be able to replace just the uni joint. If the car has a centre diff lock you can leave the front shaft out while you get it fixed & still drive the car in two wheel drive.

Steve

[karlblues2]

Thanks guys
I'm still none the wiser as to whether I can just replace the uni-joint that's stuffed rather than replace / repair the whole driveshaft assembly?
Sorry for seeking clarification again...
Cheers
Karl

[karlblues2]

Karl,

I haven't done any work to the prop shaft on mine yet, but would think that you would be able to replace just the uni joint. If the car has a centre diff lock you can leave the front shaft out while you get it fixed & still drive the car in two wheel drive.

Steve
Oops
Just saw this
Cheers

[Tombie]

Depends if the carrier is damaged, if its damaged the whole end needs replacing.

HardiSpicer are a tailshaft company, they do a H/Duty Double cardan joint that is welded onto the current shaft to replace the old joint.

If only the uni joint on the current unit is damaged a new one can be fitted, however they often wreck the rest of the joint when they go.

[Hamish71]

If you have to get the whole thing replaced, I got mine done at Monaro Off Road in Quenbeyan for $800

[BMKal]

I got mine done at Hardie Spicer in Kalgoorlie a few months ago. Was nothing wrong with it except for the tell tale squeak just starting, but I decided to get in first.

They replaced all uni joints with greasable units, re-balanced the shaft, and painted it all a nice bright blue. Can't find the docket with the cost at the moment, but the price was nothing significant from memory - I don't remember falling out of my chair when I got the bill.

Certainly no need to replace the shaft if it has not been damaged.

[dinosaur]

knox driveshafts in Ferntree gully rebuilt mine with greasable ubi joints for around $200

[strangy]

Uni Joint part #K5 -A757 (heavy duty) Hardy Spicer or CBC (who will supply a Hardy Spicer joint)
CBC were $55 each, but BSC motion Technology were $27 each!!!.

The joints are easy enough to replace, but if the spherical bearing in the middle is damaged, you will need a new DC joint.

Cheers

[Slunnie]

If you decide to replace the shaft completely, then I'd look at Tom Woods in the US. He is a seriously nice guy to deal with and his customer support is totally benchmark. The shafts from him are 1310 unis everywhere, not just the double cardin and the uni joints are stronger than commercial one - they are a performance part and guaranteed not to break. You will land in Australia (within 5 days) 2x Tom Woods 1310 shafts to your door for the cost of one local spicer shaft (spicer shafts are still 1300 unis at the diff end and 1310 at the transfer end).

The problem with the DC joint for Rovers, is that even though the uni joints can be made greasable, the middle bearing isn't on most. If you run standard 1300 unis and the middle bearing goes dry (which it will) and fails it then also takes out the uni joints and if not caught the shaft will fail and break on the road. The Tom Woods unis I drove for too long with a failed centre bearing and the 1310's just laughed at it. When I rebuilt the shaft I only needed to change the centre bearing as opposed to everything and the shaft is still going great guns.

The big problem though is that you can run the Spicer 1310 yolks (which Tom also used) and not have a greasable centre bearing which will still ultimately suffer from the same problem, or you can have a greasable centre bearing and not have the strength. Tom how has cast from steel (not iron) a new yolk that has allowed him to include a greasable centre bearing into the 1310 DC joint and still maintain the strength of the Spicer DC joint which does not have the greasy centre bearing.

Tom sent me 2 of these new shafts and a couple of yolks and unis which landed just recently, so I'm still yet to pull them out of the box, but I really think that this is the solution for the D2 shaft problems. I'm convinced of it. Changing to 1310 DC joints solves the breakages but not the dry bearing failure problem. This new shaft solves the dry bearing problems also.

Don't be put off by him being in the US - his shipping is fast and his backup is 100%.

[froryan]

Low and behold mine went last week too :( - got canberra motor works to sort it - $631 for the propshaft and an hour labour :)

[Cosmic Tourist]

Low and behold mine went last week too :( - got canberra motor works to sort it - $631 for the propshaft and an hour labour :)

They're a decent bunch of guys. Generally pretty expensive though, Im amazed it was under 1000$

[froryan]

They're a decent bunch of guys. Generally pretty expensive though, Im amazed it was under 1000$

I was too - they replaced my rear diff and hubs last year and it certanly cost me an arm and both legs. But I can't fault their work or knowledge (I have been using them since we got the Disco 2 years ago) and although I wouldn't mind paying less - I suppose you do get what you pay for.

[Tombie]

Low and behold mine went last week too :( - got canberra motor works to sort it - $631 for the propshaft and an hour labour :)

Question: If you could have had an upgraded heavy duty unit for $750.00 delivered would you have purchased it?

I'm looking to stock a range of H/D driveshafts with fully serviceable & greasable components in the near future.. Just wondering what people think?

[p38arover]

Front Universal Joint on Front tail shaft. (Gearbox end!!)

I'm confused.

The front UJ on the front propshaft is at the diff end, not the gearbox end.

:confused:

[Tombie]

I'm confused.

The front UJ on the front propshaft is at the diff end, not the gearbox end.

:confused:

I think he means the Double Cardan joint at the gearbox end (which technically has 2 unijoints :cool: )

[froryan]

Question: If you could have had an upgraded heavy duty unit for $750.00 delivered would you have purchased it?

I'm looking to stock a range of H/D driveshafts with fully serviceable & greasable components in the near future.. Just wondering what people think?

probably yes on the face of it - but I would like to know more about it first. The guys where I got it done have had a heap of the greasable units fail over the past 12 months (various types and brand - even including the Tom Woods ones that are mentioned above) and have gone back to reccomending original components (although straight from the OEM not via Land Rover).

On that note, i would be interested to hear everyone else's experience with greasable units failing?

[Slunnie]

probably yes on the face of it - but I would like to know more about it first. The guys where I got it done have had a heap of the greasable units fail over the past 12 months (various types and brand - even including the Tom Woods ones that are mentioned above) and have gone back to reccomending original components (although straight from the OEM not via Land Rover).

On that note, i would be interested to hear everyone else's experience with greasable units failing?
If they are recommending the Spicer 1300 over the Spicer 1310 then I'd be taking their advice with a grain of salt. That will also be the old Tom Woods shaft, not the current one which has been upgraded.

[Urban Panzer]

Im all for rebuilding the Factory shaft, done about 5 now, and with the new design of the "genuine" GKN UJ's where the bearing cup has the seal "built in" instead of the stupid cup washers, its a doddle, can do a shaft now in 30 mins.

My origninal shaft last 80,000 miles, so if the rebuild lasts the same (built with LOADS of grease in the centreing bearing) its good enough for me. Can rebuild one 5 times for the cost of a new one.

[froryan]

If they are recommending the Spicer 1300 over the Spicer 1310 then I'd be taking their advice with a grain of salt. That will also be the old Tom Woods shaft, not the current one which has been upgraded.


it is the "genuine" GKN one - but in a GKN box instead of a Land Rover box