Leaking inlet valve on toilet

[p38arover]

Ok, I'm frustrated and I need the advice of a plumber.

We have a Gerberit Fors (or Impuls360 overseas by the look of it) inlet valve assembly in our toilet cistern (see http://www.geberit.com.au/web/appl/au/wcmsau.nsf/files/usr-pdf-Geberit_Inlet%20Valves.pdf/$file/Geberit_Inlet%20Valves.pdf ). It doesn't always shut off and thus overflows. All we need to do to stop it is momentarily turn off the supply water, then turn it back on.

I've replaced the main silicone seal (with an aftermarket Fix-a-Loo seal) but to no avail. (The genuine Gerberit seal costs as much as the complete cistern cost us!)

The problem is that I cannot find anywhere on the 'Net just how this inlet valve works. If I knew that, I think I could work out what the problem is.

The seal is designed with a hole in it through which a tiny channel flows water. Why I'm not sure but I suspect it is a water pressure thing which balances pressures to shut of the valve.

Is there a plumber on here who knows how they work?

[DeeJay]

I used to have similar problems & they all went away when I fitted ( for another reason) a pressure limiting valve.
Do you have high water pressure??

[abaddonxi]

I'd be betting on a faulty replacement seal, but we're in the wrong thread for that.:D

Want me to pick up an uncontaminated one for you?

[twitchy]

Problem giving you the ****s mate.........:wasntme:

[Blknight.aus]

just bend the arm abit to put some more pressure on it from the float...

[Slunnie]

Pull it apart. If it breaks then buy a new one. :D

[B92 8NW]

A leaking inlet valve can be caused by a build up of carbon, a stuck lifter plunger or a warn lifter body. If there's a few miles on the toilet, it might be worth pulling the head and getting a regrind. You should do the stem seals and caps whilst it all apart, too.

[d2dave]

Ron, Try these

Google Image Result for http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/images/277/SANY3048h.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/images/277/SANY3048h.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/fluidmaster-toilet-cistern-replacement-float-valve/&h=480&w=520&sz=60&tbnid=FFd4vLf7n4pFmM:&tbnh=121&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcistern%2Bvalves&hl=en&usg=__D_EB94w-RTkgOsO7g7HnxsV4wMg=&ei=gZ3uS9_YHpiekQXv76znBg&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=4&ct=image&ved=0CDsQ9QEwAw)


I have 23 toilets at my place and whenever I have a problem I fit one of these. I swear by them.

Dave.

[Savanahkelpy]

I,ve allways thought that regarding toilets, on the whole, you were supposed to have a leaking outlet valve,,,:eek::D
Damm!, my sense of humour is getting worse!!:twisted::D

[Chucaro]

How you have managed to get a faulty seal?
I cannot believe that :D

[dmdigital]

Ron, Try these

Google Image Result for http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/images/277/SANY3048h.jpg (http://www.google.com.au/imgres?imgurl=http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/images/277/SANY3048h.jpg&imgrefurl=http://www.lusanbidets.com.au/products/fluidmaster-toilet-cistern-replacement-float-valve/&h=480&w=520&sz=60&tbnid=FFd4vLf7n4pFmM:&tbnh=121&tbnw=131&prev=/images%3Fq%3Dcistern%2Bvalves&hl=en&usg=__D_EB94w-RTkgOsO7g7HnxsV4wMg=&ei=gZ3uS9_YHpiekQXv76znBg&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=4&ct=image&ved=0CDsQ9QEwAw)


I have 23 toilets at my place and whenever I have a problem I fit one of these. I swear by them.

Dave.
I'm surprised no one's comment on this statement Dave;) - Keep 'em guessing hey?

[clean32]

sorry i cant help, but then i only ever use my outlet on the toilet, i used to have a dog that used its inlet in the toilet but

[Disco_owner]

Just buy a whole new "water saving" valve assembly and fit it . I gave up trying to fix the Problem on mine , it was using way too much water on every flush.:D

[richard4u2]

does this system have a float valve ? if so then it will have an adjustiable screw to control the height of the float , if you can slip something small and about half a mil thick between that plastic type screw and the arm, that is of course it is over flowing where the water is entering the tank
or is it not over flowing and just leaking in to the bowl in that case you will need a new tank

[p38arover]

The valve assembly is relatively new - the whole cistern is about 2 years old. I doesn't use the old ballcock with a brass valve (that's what I replaced). It's a modern style with a silicone diaphragm.

I've already replaced the diaphragm 3 times over the past 2 years. The original one had a tear in it and must have been like that from manufacture (sound familiar for me? :( ).

I'm getting to the point where I may have to get someone to go and pick a new on off the shelf for me.

I still want to know how these diaphragm seals work - especially as they have a hole in them for water to flow through.

I've just found something on the 'net from the page this was on:
Ask A Builder-Toilet Takes Long Time To Fill (http://www.askabuilder.co.uk/how-to/repair-toilet.html)

This is pic of a similar one I found on the 'net. See the hole and u-shaped channel at the boittom.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/957.jpg

There is a very small secondary seal and that is not available as a spare part from Fix-a-Loo. That might be the cause of the leak. I'll have to see if I can make one.

[p38arover]

I gave up and bought a new inlet valve assembly.

I fitted it and.................

......... it's faulty. :(

[Disco_owner]

I gave up and bought a new inlet valve assembly.

I fitted it and.................

......... it's faulty. :(

My Ability to buy faulty Goods Springs to mind ....:D

[Colin Mitchell]

Ok, I'm frustrated and I need the advice of a plumber.

We have a Gerberit Fors (or Impuls360 overseas by the look of it) inlet valve assembly in our toilet cistern (see Page not found – HTTP 404 | Geberit Australia (http://www.geberit.com.au/web/appl/au/wcmsau.nsf/files/usr-pdf-Geberit_Inlet%20Valves.pdf/$file/Geberit_Inlet%20Valves.pdf) ). It doesn't always shut off and thus overflows. All we need to do to stop it is momentarily turn off the supply water, then turn it back on.

I've replaced the main silicone seal (with an aftermarket Fix-a-Loo seal) but to no avail. (The genuine Gerberit seal costs as much as the complete cistern cost us!)

The problem is that I cannot find anywhere on the 'Net just how this inlet valve works. If I knew that, I think I could work out what the problem is.

The seal is designed with a hole in it through which a tiny channel flows water. Why I'm not sure but I suspect it is a water pressure thing which balances pressures to shut of the valve.

Is there a plumber on here who knows how they work?

oooooooooooooooooooooooo000000000000000000000000oo ooooooooooooooo

Here is how the inlet valve works.
When the cistern is filling, water passes around the inlet valve and this inlet valve is a very thin diaphragm very much like a condom.
As the water level rises, there is an upturned "boat" that rises on top of the water and it pushes a lever with very little force and the lever closes a very small hole through which water has been escaping.
This water comes from around the condom diaphragm and through a very small hole that is designed to be never blocked.
Now the water fills the back of the diaphragm and also covers a plunger that pushes the diaphragm against the seat of the valve. The seat of the valve is the ring you can see inside the whole mechanism.
We now have a situation where the thin condom is being pressed against a ring and the pressure behind the plunger is up to 100 pounds per square inch. The ring is the inlet pipe and it currently has little or no water flowing through it and thus the difference in pressure from the plunger is about 50 pounds as the inlet pipe has an area of about half a square inch. This pressure is so high that the ring literally cuts through the condom after about 12 months and the toilet leaks.

I have solved the problem by keeping the broken condom in place and making sure the hole is not obstructed. Now place a 11mm or 12mm "O ring" over the pointed blue part of the valve and carefully fit the whole assembly back into the unit and connect the arm. This will take a lot of skill. The O-ring will now do the "shutting-off"
You will find the water shuts off slightly sooner and it is below the overflow pipe.
It may leak for a minute as the enormous pressure of "shut off" will take time to squeeze the O-ring into the right alignment.
Colin Mitchell
Talking Electronics.com
talking@tpg.com.au