Drawer System

[CSBrisie]

I fitted the new ORS drawer system (Fridge Pack 2) last week; neat bit of kit and a Milford cargo barrier fits with it too. Highly recommended.

OffRoad Systems (http://www.offroadsystems.com.au/)




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/719.jpg[/URL]

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/720.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a233/mundayc/001.jpg)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/721.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/722.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/723.jpg (http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a233/mundayc/006-2.jpg)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/05/724.jpg[URL="http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a233/mundayc/011-1.jpg"]

[sniegy]

Very Nice,
Thanks for the link.
They have a nice kit..
Did you choose Aluminium?
Any options?
Likes / Dislikes yet?

Cheers

[CSBrisie]

Yes, I wanted to keep it as light as possible so went aluminium; the table and the drawer top were options. In addition they made two identical kits, one for me and one for my brothers D3 and both are slightly narrower than their standard version. This was becasue we wanted easier access to 12V plugs and the rear panels. They seem well made - but they'd want to be at the price. Best bit ofcourse is that it will slot straight into the D4!

[DiscoWeb]

BlackPerth,

Looks good, is this a set up that can be relatively easily removed, I can see it looks like a case of simply unscrewing the tie downs but is that it.

I am looking for a set up that can put in an out so the rear seats can be used for normal use and then put in when going for a trip.

Also what is the approximate cost ?

George

[SimonM]

BlackPerth,

Looks good, is this a set up that can be relatively easily removed, I can see it looks like a case of simply unscrewing the tie downs but is that it.

I am looking for a set up that can put in an out so the rear seats can be used for normal use and then put in when going for a trip.

Also what is the approximate cost ?

George

George I had a pair of ORS drawers in my Patrol and I found they were very easy to remove and re-install once you knew how.

[CSBrisie]

its a 10 minute job - unscrew the tie downs and lift it out. Easy. Not cheap - no change from $2500 if you go with all the options and fridge slide etc etc

[mickyd24969]

BlackPerth,

Did you consider the FourbyFitouts solution?

I too want something that is easily removed!

Michael

[povman]

Just started building my own to save some coin! So far I have finished the frame and all up, it's cost me $110 for materials. Ordering slides next and thinking of using marine ply covered and marine carpet for the top.

Povman.

[CSBrisie]

All, this is now for sale - please PM if interested; on EBAY too; reason for selling is we just find with 3 kids we need more space in the back - and often now have one rear seat up next to the fridge when an extra child is with us.


ORS 4WD Storage Drawer System - Discovery (eBay item 110703636680 end time 27-Jun-11 18:17:54 AEST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110703636680&ssPageName=STRK:MESELX:IT)

[NauticAl]

I have just fitted a home made two drawer unit to the back of my new D4. Although it is a very very simple unit, a similar one has worked well for 10 years in the back of my 6.5 litre V8 "Tdi" D1. The unit is made from 12mm exterior ply and 180mm wide pine timber. There are no drawer runners - I just rub candle wax on the timber and the drawers move easily. A friend in Fremantle made one with roller runners for his D2 and he had to fit latches to stop the drawers self opening. I don't need latches.

The side wings on the unit are there so they can be folded up to slide the whole thing out of the back - it needs to be easily removable to use the rear seats or remove the spare wheel. Ti take out the drawers, fold the wings up, untie the two lashings securing it down to the tie down points and then slide it out almost takes less time than to write it down.

The cost of the parts is probably around $200 for the timber, alloy trim angle, epoxy glue, contact glue, hinges, fasteners and carpet. The only tools needed to make it are a jig saw, router and orbital sander - and a bit - not much - of woodworking skill

The unit has two drawers approx 500mm x 1000m. If anyone is interested, I can supply the exact dimensions and a sketch of the unit.

Cheers

Al

[BONZER]

Hi Al,
This is a great design and the side flaps are a stroke of genius. I would really love to have a sketch, working drawings, dimensions etc. Would the unit support the weight of a fridge on a slide on top?
Cheers for some great ingenuity,
John

[NauticAl]

Hi John

The unit itself will take any amount of weight - there are three longitudinal bearers underneath that transfer the weight to the edges and centre of the floor, also a transverse bearer at the front and the back. The wings will be as strong as you want to make them. Mine have got two triangular folding braces that are glued and screwed to the underside of the wings to give support when they are folded down - You could fit more hinges and wings if loading up the wings was an issue.

The biggest problem with the concept is having to take it out to use either the third row of seats of lower the spare wheel. I don't have a solution to this apart from making it easy to get out!

I will knock up a sketch over the weekend with some dimensions and post it.

Cheers

Al

[NauticAl]

I have had a couple of requests for some dimensions, so I have drawn up a couple of sketches of how the drawers go together.

Obviously, when the unit is finished, carpet is stuck on the top, the fronts of the drawers and the end nearest to the seats with contact adhesive and some good quality hinges are screwed onto the top. A length of alloy angle from the hardware shop trims the edge.

The set in my D1 have got metal handles on the front of the drawers, but thet rattle. One of my favorite marine principles is "never use a fitting when a hole will do", so the handles on the drawers in the new set (both ends of the drawers) are just nicely finished holes. There is a another pair or holes in the back of the case to serve as handles when lifting it and to let the air in and out when you open and close the drawers. They are a very good fit.

Also not in the photos or the drawings are short loops of 25mm black webbing screwed under the wings. The webbing loops come up around the outside of the wings as you close them, so that you can pull them up without cutting your fingers off. I found this out the hard and painful way.

Cheers

Al

[BONZER]

Hi Al,
Many thanks for the detailed pdf. They do look easy enough to construct and you have made the task even easier. Hope this didn't put you under the pump too much. A great solution without a huge outlay.:)
Cheers for your assistance
John

[~Rich~]

Thanks Al for you great drawings, do you design boats? If so what kind, stink or sail?
I used to build and race timber dinghy class sailing boats when I was young. Got into shaping surfboards too. Great fun then I became a Carpenter / Builder.

You have made me decide I want to build my own set of drawers, I'll roughly use your O/A measurements but I'll move the centre support slightly to the drivers side so I can leave the seats in and do the extended wheel winch setup to lower the spare.

I'll have my Engel on the D/S above the drawers on a slide base with the centre drawer divider under the edge of this. I see you have not fitted drawer runners, I won't be fitting any either, I may however either place teflon strips under the drawers for ease of use.

I'm also toying with the idea of using Qubelock for a top section. 4 posts in each corner, a centre divider next to the fridge and a top shelf approx 180mm down from the top of the tailgate. This would be used for my tent storage. Hmmm sounds like fun. :)

[jonesy63]

Rich - don't you over-do things too soon! ;)

Sounds like you're on the mend! :cool:

Cheers,
Rob

P.S. Is that "cubelock" the aluminium frame with plastic joiners that I saw at Bunnings?

[~Rich~]

Rich - don't you over-do things too soon! ;)

Sounds like you're on the mend! :cool:

Cheers,
Rob

P.S. Is that "cubelock" the aluminium frame with plastic joiners that I saw at Bunnings?

Well I can only research & design as yet seeing I can't drive!

At Capral it's called Qubelok, same stuff.
http://www.spacepac.com.au/Brochures/Shelving/Qubelok/Aluminium_Tube_and_Nylon_Joints_3pg_np.pdf
I'll use the lipped tube for the top shelf & centre divide.

[jonesy63]

Thanks for the link Rich! Take care.

[NauticAl]

Hi Rich

Good idea with moving the centre pillar to one side but I thought of that. I was going to fit two centre pillars so I could use an extended socket to lower the spare wheel through the middle space. Then I wondered how I was going to open the 3rd row of seats to get at the nut without taking out the drawers! Ha ha ha!

If anyone has a solution to this please let me know and I will re-build mine!

With regard to the teflon strip - I have got a strip of formica laminate that I was going to cut into 20mm wide anti friction slides - very good stuff for this purpose - but you really don't need it. The drawers on my D1 must be 10 years old and I have only ever waxed them the once. It is not as though you will be opening the drawers every 10 minutes, day in , day out. If you have the strip, there is no reason not to use it, but I am a strong subscriber to the KISS principle.

I do all sorts of boats - I am a marine surveyor by profession and a (qualified) amateur boat designed by vocation. Amateur designers have the advantage of not having to please customers in order to scrounge a living! I am currently handicapped by having both sorts of boats - stink and sail - I sailed my 38 foot sailboat from WA to Hobart in March in preparation for a sailing and Land Rovering semi-retirement. Anyone want to buy a 38 foot Randell flying bridge stinkboat?

Cheers

Al

[IvanR]

The spare can be easily lowered without raising the 3rd row seats.
First drill a hole in the lip of the rubber cap covering the nut to lower the wheel and put a cable tie in a big loop that is in line with the gap between the seats so that the cap can be removed. (without the cap in place dust can come in)
Purchase a 3/8'' drive 22mm socket and adapt back to 1/4 '', and a 1/4'' x 150mm extension and a stubby rachet.
There is enough room at the rear of the gap in the seats to insert the socket and then the 1/4'' extension will slide forward between the seats.
Just make sure the various bits don't come apart ie. tape or glue together.
Have used this methed a couple of times with out any trouble.

IvanR

[~Rich~]

Al as Ivan mentioned:
DISCO3.CO.UK - View topic - Spare wheel removal...modification. (http://www.disco3.co.uk/forum/topic9916.html)
Note CaverD3 post on page 3 for waterproofing.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/779.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/07/780.jpg

I made a home made fridge slide using both teflon and laminate about 15 yrs ago. It works well but I want a lower profile one for this project so I'll buy a commercial one. I'll stick to laminate then for the drawers too, I suppose 12mm Marine ply is much more structual than 12mm Standard ply and close to 18mm standard ply so that it will both be thinner stronger and lighter for the purpose.

[NauticAl]

Hi Rich

I should have consulted you before I made the drawers! With a new build, then, it would be quite simple to make the centre divider in two pieces, with a 100mm or so gap where the socket extension goes through and then saw a hole in the top and bottom of the drawer case. It would be simple enough to find some sort of round plug that would fit in the top hole.You would still need to pull the drawers out to get the socket through but that is no hardship.

Now I just need to work out how to modify mine to suit!:(

Thanks.

Al

[NauticAl]

About "marine" ply. As a marine surveyor, this is a subject I know something about. Unles you are building the actual outside shell of a boat hull, do not waste money on BS1088 grade marine ply. It is the very best grade but Austral plywood in Australia make an exterior grade plywood in Hoop pine that is virtually identical to their marine ply. The only differences are that the marine has two A grade faces vs an "A" and "C" grade face, slightly thicker outer veneers and has less core gaps. The Austral exterior grade hoop pine is expensive comparted to CD radiata pine construction ply but is a very good product and is a lot cheaper than the marine grade.

Cheers

Al

[paintman]

Hi Al
Thanks for all the good info on your drawers. I am going to make them for my new D4.
Steve

[DiscoWeb]

I have had a couple of requests for some dimensions, so I have drawn up a couple of sketches of how the drawers go together.

Cheers

Al

Thanks Al,

Not sure where the "THANKS" tab has gone from the bottom of the posts but I am sure you would have got plenty.

George

[NauticAl]

No problem - I have learned an enormous amount from everyone else by reading through all the D3/D4 threads - I am glad to be able to contribute something back.

Cheers

Al

[~Rich~]

Heh Al,
Just a question about your drawer box:
You have dimensioned some wedges that are underneath the actual box.
I can understand that they need to be there for clearance but do you have them angled for a reason?
Or is that just to assist the drawers staying in?
Thanks
Rich

[NauticAl]

Hi Rich

You have caught me out! :angel:When I first fitted them, I only had the 20mm timber rails and the drawers just caught on the edge of the plastic trim strip on the tailgate. On close examination, there is an apparent slope between the floor and the sides in the back, and fitting the wedges fixed the clearance issue and also lessened the visual angle difference. You probably don't need to have them tapered but if you don't, they will need to be a bit higher (maybe 50mm from the bottom edge of the actual drawer to the floor of the car) to achieve the same clearance. The wedges actually makes the whole thing look more level. If you put them in from the start, rather that a retro fix like I did, they wont be hard to do. If you start with 2 pieces of wood, then even if you are using a jig saw, the rough cut edge can be glued to the case, and the finished edges will be down.

Cheers

Al

[~Rich~]

Thanks Al,
Yeah as soon as you put the bare box in you can see the angle the floor is. Sloping down quite substantially to the back of the car.
I have decided to do the nautical thing Al as you may notice from the photo ;)
Just like I used to do with frames! This material in the base served no purpose and makes it lighter to lift out and carry. If you wished you could remove the additional seats underneath for more storage.

Work in progress:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1322.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1323.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1324.jpg
I have angled the tie downs at an approximate angle of 40 degrees, the one at the front of the drawers is angled towards the back of the car and the one at the back of the drawers in angled toward the front of the car. This gives more stability against any lateral movement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1325.jpg
My side infills are a different shape to yours Al, they step back square at the first step from the back of the car.

[NauticAl]

Hi Rich

Very nice job - they make mine look rough but once the carpet is glued on, all is hidden!:wasntme:I do a better job with boats! Well done - the bottom cuttout is a very good idea. I am not sure why I didn't think of it - it solves the problem of the air lock when you open and close them and ofsetting the centre web also solves the tyre issue. I won't re-make mine but yours is a much better setup. Maybe I should revise the drawing!

Cheers

Al

[juddy]

Very nice, home made drawer, we sell the black widow ones $2000 for the disco, very good unit and very high quality bearings on the drawers, load rating of 250 kg per drawer, the downside for me is the weight of the units 65kg.





Thanks Al,
Yeah as soon as you put the bare box in you can see the angle the floor is. Sloping down quite substantially to the back of the car.
I have decided to do the nautical thing Al as you may notice from the photo ;)
Just like I used to do with frames! This material in the base served no purpose and makes it lighter to lift out and carry. If you wished you could remove the additional seats underneath for more storage.

Work in progress:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1322.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1323.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1324.jpg
I have angled the tie downs at an approximate angle of 40 degrees, the one at the front of the drawers is angled towards the back of the car and the one at the back of the drawers in angled toward the front of the car. This gives more stability against any lateral movement.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1325.jpg
My side infills are a different shape to yours Al, they step back square at the first step from the back of the car.

[AGRO]

Hi Rich,

The work in progress pictures are a great inspiration.

The access holes beneath the drawers are a fantastic idea to enable access to all that space under the floor to store tools and spares etc

I am planning to do a similar constuction but may use plastic storage bins to slide in the drawer slots instead of wooden drawers.

[Tote]

Just a suggestion with the drawers that use the factory hold down points. I have a cage that I made up a while ago (details here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/62611-shelves-cage-disco-3-a.html)). I have found out the hard way that turnbuckles will unscrew under adventurous driving conditions . In my case I have a small mark in the hood lining where the cage rubbed against it. I have since fitted locknuts to the turnbuckles which has cured the issue.

Regards,
Tote

[pohm66]

Rich,

Great idea about the cut-outs in the base,, might get the saw out and do the same to my DIY drawer system I moved from the D2 as I have already removed the rear row of seats so extra storage access into well underneath.

What I also have done is got myself some canvas and cut into the overall shape of the tailgate, slipped an edge under the boxing to secure. This rolls up behind the tailgate when closed but when open rolls out to protect the carpet. Make a nice surface to put tolls down on or stand on with grubby-ing up the carpet.

[~Rich~]

Just a suggestion with the drawers that use the factory hold down points. I have a cage that I made up a while ago (details here (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/62611-shelves-cage-disco-3-a.html)). I have found out the hard way that turnbuckles will unscrew under adventurous driving conditions . In my case I have a small mark in the hood lining where the cage rubbed against it. I have since fitted locknuts to the turnbuckles which has cured the issue.

Regards,
Tote

Hi Tote,
The turnbuckles I have used are Marine grade 316 Stainless steel, 750kg breaking strain and do have lock nuts fitted as standard. They won't be going anywhere!

Thanks all for the compliments, I'm glueing up my drawers now and have a trick to show.

I bought a ORS fridge slide, wow top quality and should be for $345 delivered to a distributer. Jeeze it can extend out the full depth of the tray.
OffRoad Systems ORS Premium Fridge Slide Engel Waeco Evakool (http://www.offroadsystems.com.au/fridge_slide.html)

More pickies to come.

[IvanR]

I have a simaler home made drawer system and only discovered after putting it in that the tailgate was at angle to the floor. My solution was to taper the sides of the drawers slightly so that they could angle up as you pull then back.
Also agree with pohn66 re the tarp, but would suggest the use of poly tarp rather than canvas. (easier to clean than canvas) Also my tarp covers the whole area of the back. It also enables the drawers to slide easily over the tailgate. Have you made provision to remove the jack from the rear quarter panel. From the photo it looks like the infill may prevent this.

IvanR

TDV6 S Air Susp.
Mitch Hitch, TVan.

[~Rich~]

Have you made provision to remove the jack from the rear quarter panel. From the photo it looks like the infill may prevent this.I'm using Blum cabinet hinges which are easily unclipped from their bases, thus removing the infill panel for access to the jack & tools.

Detail of routered drawer bottom:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1231.jpg

Tip - use a good quality masking tape to pull the epoxy joins together, it has stretch which assists in the action:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1232.jpg

Just wait for the Epoxy to set before removing tape.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/1233.jpg

[~Rich~]

I had a week off due to Chemo stuffing me up.
Glad I felt like getting back to my project this W/E.

Don't forget to fix your "T Nuts" for a fridge slide before you glue it all together.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/872.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/873.jpg

Note laminate sliding strips contact glued to both the Top & Bottom before glueing together.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/874.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/875.jpg

Detail of side panel & Blum zero overlay clip on hinges.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/876.jpg

Side panel open.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/877.jpg

Exterior completed, now to carpet the inside of the drawers.
Fridge Slide and Qubelock frame to come.
BTW it's an small aluminium gutter section I've screw fixed along the back edge both for protection and looks.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/08/878.jpg

I love the way it has come together, very happy. :D
Just don't ask me to make you one. ;)

[eddomak]

I had a week off due to Chemo stuffing me up.
Glad I felt like getting back to my project this W/E.

...
Just don't ask me to make you one. ;)

Looks like a fantastic job! Before your comment I seriously was considering whether I was going to PM you to see if you would be interested in making one for me. :D

[elsey]

G'day Rich,

These are the best looking set of draws - well done.

Thanks for all the info and the pics, I will be getting to work as soon as I return home from North Qld.

Regards

Lou

[~Rich~]

Thanks for the compliments guys.

Just a couple of things I'd like to add:


I've made my set using the 189mm solid pine for the box sides and divider, as Al mentioned you may wish to make your drawers higher. But bear in mine that if you do you have to shorten the depth of the unit and drawers as the measurement that Al has on his plans is 1025mm. This measurement once constructed has the unit just about tight up to the back of the rear seats. Because of the angle of the rear seats if you go higher you will need to adjust the depth.
Many thanks to Al for his great drawings with measurements, they work well and takes the guesswork out of the project.

[~Rich~]

Well I'm just about finished, just some minor items such as a custom cutlery tray and possibly some dividers.

Speaking to an old friend of mine who has made a few sets he recommends using a light colour carpet inside the drawers. The reason for this is that at night if you have either black or charcoal carpet the interior of the drawers are like the black hole!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/336.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/337.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/338.jpg

I've used a light grey carpet inside.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/339.jpg

Up on top is my tent and a camp table, stapped down of course.
This is fitted to a D3.

NOTE: This setup will fit both the D3 & D4, as I mentioned earlier if you use higher sides you will have to shorten the drawer length as the rear seats angle back and therefore shorten the available depth the higher you go.

[jz-is-fishing]

Rich et al

I have been following this thread and am impressed to say the least. love the work...

Unfortunately for me I have a Disco 3, not a Disco 4. Having never looked at the Disco 4 up close, would it be safe to say that the dimensions provided would be the same? Bar the side fins/wings dudads.

Again great work

Cheers

[lrdef110]

Great job Rich. Not sure what your total length but my drawers are 810mm deep which allow a perfect fitting of a Dilium 50 litre poly water tank betwen the drawers and the back of the centre seats. I have fitted mine with a pump and pressure switch so have water at the turn of a tap to the rear. Dolium have these tanks at $195 now which I thought was pretty good especially with the perfect fit.

Cheers
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/09/331.jpg

[jz-is-fishing]

Can you still put the back seats up with the tank installed?

[lrdef110]

Yep sure can, so it stays there permanently. The above photo was a work in progress and I have since secured the tank so it will not move. The pump is located under the side wing on the opposite side in the photo.

Cheers

[~Rich~]

My set is 1025mm deep as per Al's plan:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/1514565-post13.html

I wanted to utilise as much depth as possible, I've had cargo barriers in my last 2 4wd's and decided that I rather maximise my space and strap down other items this time.

For desert trips I'll be fitting a footwell tank or bladder, for weekend trips I strap a 20ltr tank behind the fridge.

[Chris Preso]

Thought I would share my relatively amateurish looking shelving system.

Does a great job organising stuff with great storage where the rear seats were removed from.

Cheers

Chris

[Bunyip_tdi]

I have had a couple of requests for some dimensions, so I have drawn up a couple of sketches of how the drawers go together.

Al

G'Day Al,

Just a vote of thanks for the drawings. Used the October long weekend to knock up your draw design for our LRD4 which is on order. ETA Nov 2011.

Your plans were well set out and provided plenty of information to make some minor adjustments. I used 17mm phenolic ply I had in the shed. Yes it's a tad heavier, but should take some heavy gear. Advantages from using the phenolic ply were smooth contact surfaces between the draws and frame. Slides with very little effort.

Still some final touches required, trimming to fit into LRD4, carpeting etc.

See images attached.

Again, thanks for sharing the drawings.

Craig

MY12 LRD4 TDV6 HSE, Bi-Xenon, E-Diff, TPMS, Snorkel, Longranger,
Kaymar, ARB Bar and winch, 18" wheels, LLAMS (On-order!)
-------
VW Touareg TDI V6 (2008) Current
VW Touareg TDI R5 (2005)
ML 320 (2003)

[~Rich~]

Great stuff Craig,
You may as well cut some holes out of the bottom to remove some excess weight.

[Bunyip_tdi]

Rich,

Thanks for the suggestion. Given the slightly thicker ply, I have already cut out sections in the bottom panel, just forgot to mention this.

Craig.

MY12 LRD4 TDV6 HSE, Bi-Xenon, E-Diff, TPMS, Snorkel, Longranger,
Kaymar, ARB Bar and winch, 18" wheels, LLAMS (On-order!)
-------
VW Touareg TDI V6 (2008) Current
VW Touareg TDI R5 (2005)
ML 320 (2003)

[NauticAl]

Hi Craig

Glad that you found the drawings inspirational. I should re-do them, as Rich's modification of off-centering the drawers to allow access to the spare wheel winch is a good one, as is the cutout bottom panel.

I actually got a flat (and completely and totally stuffed an 8000 km tyre) with my drawers in the car. It did not help that it was bucketing down with rain, but luckily I always carry a new tarp in the back, so I could lie on this to undo the tyre, and then cover the drawers and the drawer case, which I stacked up behind the car while I got the wheel out. I thought of the off centre drawers a few times.....:cool:

The phenolic ply should work well - it will slide better than wood on wood.

Cheers

Al

[~Rich~]

Hi Al,
My centre divider is 20mm offset to the drivers side.
eg left drawer is 490mm wide, right is 450mm wide.
Drawer detail:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/1298.jpg

Cutlery tray:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/1299.jpg
Plates etc under:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/1300.jpg
W/E water supply: Note taps on both ends of outlet hose.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/1301.jpg
Water outlet:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/10/1302.jpg

[NauticAl]

Hi Rich

That is a very neat job - I like the conceal on the centre pillar - I didn't do that, so I had to put carpet trim on the 20mm wide pillar. I like the grey lining carpet too - it should minimise rattles. I carry too much dirty stuff in my drawers for that - work tools, boots and things.

Well done.

Cheers

Al

[Dreamn]

Hi Rich

Great DIY job with the drawers. I was searching the forum for ideas on commercial options however your post has inspired me to have a crack at making my own. Would you mind telling me the manufacturer and/or supplier of the water tank (I'm guessing 60 to 80 Litre?) behind the rear seats. I'm not sure if this information is revealed in your photos but for whatever reason I can only view around half of them (a problem on my end I'm sure).

Cheers

Steve

Edit. Just to avoid any confuion. I had originally accessed this thread via my iPad and for whatever reason when i viewed your posted photos it brought up a series of photos including the various stages of the drawers construction. After viewing the same post from my computer it appears these photos were not included with this post and may cause some confusion. Appologies

[~Rich~]

Hi Steve,
The water tank in my photo is only a 20ltr plastic Jerry can.
On longer trips I'll be taking multiple jerry's.
I'll probably strap them all together inside.
Thanks for the compliment.
In Projects and Tutorials is a link to download the plans.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/138015-d3-d4-build-yourself-custom-storage-drawer-unit.html

[~Rich~]

I decided to take the rear seats out to make more storage room for a desert trip.
Jeeze they are heavy and awkward to move out!
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/550.jpg

But you do end up with some reasonable space, the max depth is 150mm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/392.jpg

I did add some additional support packing.
One up the front centre.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/551.jpg

Another 19mm x 19mm section screwed to sit on the recess just inside the tailgate.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/01/552.jpg

I think the weight of the seats just about equals the sliders I fitted recently. ;)

[Dreamn]

Well I had a crack at my own set of drawers utilising a lot of the info found in this thread (thanks all). Ive been meaning to post some photos for a while now but between work commitments and trip preparations time has been fairly limited however now that I'm stuck here in Townsville with nothing to do but twiddle my thumbs until my motor is fixed I guess now is as good a time as any to post them.



I decided that building the drawers to the side would keep the fridge low and ease issue with my height challenged stature.



49746

Frame constructed following info found in this thread.



49747

A 50 Litre fuel tank for diesel. Fitting an auxiliary fuel tank was an option but costs of the tank and the addition of a spare wheel carrier was pushing the budget too much for the time being. (end cover and filler access lid were removed to display tank for photo)



49748

All done bar the finishing trims (ran out of time and trim options were limited amongst local suppliers at the time).

Cheers

Steve

[sniegy]

Dreamn,
That is a nice piece of kit, well done :-)
Love the thought of not adding an additional tank. 50Ltrs will almost do many situations in need of extra fuel.

[discotwinturbo]

Very nice job.

Brett.....

[tomar5e]

Top class, I like the idea of having the fridge that little bit lower to keep the centre of gravity lower, and of course easier access the beers ;)

How do you fill up and access the auxiliary tank?

[Disco4SE]

Hi Dreamn,
Is there enough ventilation for the fridge?
Something I am always paranoid about with mine. I always make sure that nothing is near the vents.

Cheers, Craig

[Dreamn]

Top class, I like the idea of having the fridge that little bit lower to keep the centre of gravity lower, and of course easier access the beers ;)

How do you fill up and access the auxiliary tank?


Initially I had planned to have a 12v inline pump that would feed into the vehicle tank or the tank filler and the tank breather likewise. both of these would have been tapped off somewhere to allow for disconnection. For the sake of simplicity however I have decided to use a 12v submersible transfer pump for the time being. I do acknowledge that care will need to be taken to avoid spillage and drips. Filling the tank while it's in the vehicle could also raise a can of worms regarding legalities I'm sure but it will be filled through the rear passenger door (seats will usually be in the down folded position). I had considered using this tank for water instead as I still have not used it for fuel as yet but it is likely I will use it for fuel only to be filled when circumstances call for it.

Oh!..there is no room for beer in the fridge...Jack lives there! :P

Cheers
Steve

[Dreamn]

Hi Dreamn,
Is there enough ventilation for the fridge?
Something I am always paranoid about with mine. I always make sure that nothing is near the vents.

Cheers, Craig

Hi Craig

I cant answer that question technically but it was a concern of mine also during construction. I have cut out large sections of the timber frame in the outer side wall and the floor for weight reduction and to assist with ventilation as seen in the top photo and another slotted hole above the fuel tank seen in the middle photo. The bottom of the box is supported on three tapered timbers which create a cavity beneath. Instead of tapering these timbers to nothing at the front I allowed for a 10mm lift that creates a gap at the bottom front to assist with heat escape.

Unfortunately I am unable to give you any accurate details regarding fridge running times as I was still playing around with settings on the fridge and battery configurations when I struck some bad luck which has put my vehicle into intensive care with a local mechanic.

The fridge is connected to three batteries, a 55 amp auxiliary which runs back to a 105 amp sealed AGM which then has one of those portable 30 amp Waeco batteries connected to it with the fridge plugged into it. With this configuration (which I'm not happy with) I was getting around 5 days with the fridge set at -10 degrees (using as a freezer) with an average daily temperature of around 26 degrees. By the fifth day the fridge had risen to around -3 degrees. It should be noted that during this time the freezer was accessed a few times a day and had non cooled items added.

On another occasion while my wife was back visiting our kids in Rockhampton she had left the fridge set at -12 degrees for 5 days undisturbed. By the fifth day it was still running comfortably at -11 degrees. During this time she had done some very small distances around town that would have contributed to recharging the batteries minimally.

Cheers
Steve

[Owl]

I decided to take the rear seats out to make more storage room for a desert trip.
Jeeze they are heavy and awkward to move out!

But you do end up with some reasonable space, the max depth is 150mm.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/392.jpg

. ;)
Hi Rich,
Did you happen to note what the minimum depth was through this area?
Thanks,
Ian

[~Rich~]

I'll measure the depth from the underside of my drawer unit tomorrow for you.
It's up the front of course though.

[~Rich~]

The min distance at the front is 95mm to the floor line, I get an extra 20mm due to the drawer box being packed up 20mm this end - 115mm. (packed up 40mm at the drawer fronts)

[Baxtersoup]

I have just fitted a home made two drawer unit to the back of my new D4. Although it is a very very simple unit, a similar one has worked well for 10 years in the back of my 6.5 litre V8 "Tdi" D1. The unit is made from 12mm exterior ply and 180mm wide pine timber. There are no drawer runners - I just rub candle wax on the timber and the drawers move easily. A friend in Fremantle made one with roller runners for his D2 and he had to fit latches to stop the drawers self opening. I don't need latches.

The side wings on the unit are there so they can be folded up to slide the whole thing out of the back - it needs to be easily removable to use the rear seats or remove the spare wheel. Ti take out the drawers, fold the wings up, untie the two lashings securing it down to the tie down points and then slide it out almost takes less time than to write it down.

The cost of the parts is probably around $200 for the timber, alloy trim angle, epoxy glue, contact glue, hinges, fasteners and carpet. The only tools needed to make it are a jig saw, router and orbital sander - and a bit - not much - of woodworking skill

The unit has two drawers approx 500mm x 1000m. If anyone is interested, I can supply the exact dimensions and a sketch of the unit.

Cheers

Al

Excellent design, well done

[Drizzle]

I've knocked up a slightly different version that will fit a 60L Engel fridge with a single drawer.

The fridge needed to be mounted low to still enable the fridge door to be opened without fouling on the vehicle. This also gives easier access to the contents inside. Two drawers could have been fitted in a vertical configuration but I opted for just one to accommodate more bulky items.

It proved its worth by surviving a trip up to Cape York via the entire OTT with no failures. Hope to get many more years out of it in the current D3 (and a future D4!).

Thanks to NauticAl and ~Rich~ for the inspiration :thumbsup:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/737.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2015/12/738.jpg

[bluetick]

Hey Guys,

Good Morning from California! I've got a 2005 LR3 and am planning a drawer/ sleeping platform sleeping system. My question is about access to the under floor storage where the 3rd row seats were, I've removed mine. Is it much of a pain to get at through the cut outs? I assume you have to remove the drawers to get at it? Any thoughts on making removable cutouts in the top of the drawers? Or a tilt up design that would hinge from the back?

Also has anyone seen a set of the Drifta drawers? Seems like a pretty similar concept?

Thanks!

[SeanC]

Hey Guys,

Good Morning from California! I've got a 2005 LR3 and am planning a drawer/ sleeping platform sleeping system. My question is about access to the under floor storage where the 3rd row seats were, I've removed mine. Is it much of a pain to get at through the cut outs? I assume you have to remove the drawers to get at it? Any thoughts on making removable cutouts in the top of the drawers? Or a tilt up design that would hinge from the back?

Also has anyone seen a set of the Drifta drawers? Seems like a pretty similar concept?

Thanks!
I have a set of Drifta Drawers. One drawer on the passenger side. A fridge slide on the drivers side. A table under the fridge slide and a removable cover over the fridge so you can pack over the fridge without stuff falling behind the fridge when it is slid out. The cover is highly recommended.

If you pull out the drawers there is a cut out that lets you access the space where the third row seats were. I think this is to access the spare tyre "winch".
I have my snatch strap, winch extension strap, tree trunk protector and jumper leads and a couple of bags of things I don't need regularly. I loop a separate rope around each strap and jumper leads with each labelled on the end. I can push them up under the drawers and still pull them out if I need them. Haven't had to yet. The bags go where the cut out is.

Cheer
Sean

[LRD414]

I also have a Drifta unit with drawers and fridge slide. I find access through the bottom cut-outs pretty easy.
Here's another good thread with a few ideas:
D3 D4 rear fitouts (https://www.aulro.com/afvb/l319-discovery-3-and-4-a/205055-d3-d4-rear-fitouts.html)

In this photo you can see the cut-out under the drawers and the smaller hole for the spare wheel winch.
Similar cut-out under the fridge slide which is even easier to access.

https://farm1.staticflickr.com/812/40885327354_ebe22aeb77_o.jpg (https://flic.kr/p/25hTZp9)

Cheers,
Scott

[wardy1]

Last week I bought a set of 2 drawers with fridge slide from 4wd Supacentre in Dandenong. Officially these are made to fit a Prado but as you can see, they work very well in the D4.

I removed the rear seats as we have no need for those. Be ready for some bloody hard work if you go down this path[emoji35]. They are awkward and bloody heavy.

Next I made a false floor which is held down by the standard tie down points (I bought longer bolts). This was the most time consuming part of the job. I bought a cheap profile gauge fromAll Tools ($12) so that I could replicate all the lumps and bumps in the floor to my supports. It’s like a bloody mountain range! Next, bought some boat carpet and contact adhesive (buy the Sica contact. The cheaper ones are too thick and hard to apply to the back of the carpet).

The rest is pretty self explanatory from the pics. Very happy with the result and the cost was less than $450.

Oh yeah, I can still access the spare wheel winch [emoji3].

https://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/e95a631eb84b0e1876fd059f78658614.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/f81ff7d911a9f346879ded5ab8aa956b.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/9def1dfe33fb5aa493a054772b1d3150.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/mobile-gallery/42f589cbba26f9ef987c109ac1741e69.jpg