How To: Adjust TD5 Boost Pressure.

[Benny_IIA]

I'm sure there are a lot of people who know how to do this, but for those who don't here you go.



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

That is a waste gate.

That is a some ones D2 engine bay, (Play where's wally)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/





You will need an 8 or 10mm (can not remember which one) spanner and a pair of fine nose pliers. (I would also spray the lock nut with CRC/WD40 etc. Also holding the rod in place with a pair of vice grips would be recommended. (Stops it twisting when you try and undo the lock nut).

The less threads (shorter) the rod is the more boost it will allow.

Std boost is around 15ish psi.

Over boost is 20-21ish. (More can be had with B.A.S. or similar Boost box, only really needed on "Big" ECU upgrades.)



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/01/316.jpg

I would give it a few turns then drive, repeat this until it hits over boost ( The car will fuel cut. You will feel it, it surges) Then turn it back Half a turn.


Then enjoy :burnrubber::twisted:

[coolbigrock]

ok,the rave manual says the waste gate is electronically control,so how can u mechanical adjust the boost pressure.

[stig0000]

if you own a defender its not elec controled, if you own a d2, this is what you do,,

in that pic of the engine bay you see a pipe comming off the wastegate, folow that and it will bring you to your boost modulator, what you need to do it join the waste gate and the charged air pipes,

use the little joiner from the top hose that gose to the inlet air pipe and block that off,

now that the bottem hose and the side hoses are joind you have a full macanical waste gate,

the hose that comes out the top, remove that and you have some spear gardning hose:D

now the discos turbos are wound right down, so it will take a fare few terns,

if your worryed about terning the boost up, dont be, the td5 has a smart( its to smart sometimes:mad:) ecu and will cut fuel b4 the engine will make to much boost. if you own a nano and it only reads in kpa, the NO. you want its about 242kpa, they over boost at 245,

[gatesy]

Is this worth doing? I have a stock 130 def. Sort of wondering if I should give it a go.

[stig0000]

it is, its not going to make your car throw you into your seat, but its the little things that made the diffrence, when towing, it will pull that little bit better, you wont have to rev it as hard up the hills, use a higher gear, and you get to hear it boost heaps more:twisted::twisted:

it is noted that to get the best out of this is with a good 100% working MAF,

[Shamo]

Turned my car from sluggish to bearable i'll tell you that much! can definitely notice it though ;)

Shamo

[Urban Panzer]

if you own a defender its not elec controled, if you own a d2, this is what you do,,

in that pic of the engine bay you see a pipe comming off the wastegate, folow that and it will bring you to your boost modulator, what you need to do it join the waste gate and the charged air pipes,

use the little joiner from the top hose that gose to the inlet air pipe and block that off,

now that the bottem hose and the side hoses are joind you have a full macanical waste gate,

the hose that comes out the top, remove that and you have some spear gardning hose:D

now the discos turbos are wound right down, so it will take a fare few terns,

if your worryed about terning the boost up, dont be, the td5 has a smart( its to smart sometimes:mad:) ecu and will cut fuel b4 the engine will make to much boost. if you own a nano and it only reads in kpa, the NO. you want its about 242kpa, they over boost at 245,

According to rave, the defender ECU still monitors boost and opens the waste gate when full boost is reached, dont see how it can do that without a modulator in the system......... :confused:


The ECM controls the amount of boost pressure the engine receives by way of the turbocharger. When full boost
is reached a control signal is sent to the wastegate modulator, and a vacuum is applied to the wastegate valve.
The wastegate valve opens, bypassing some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine to be output to the
exhaust system.

[eddie_tdi]

hi guys,

is there a way to do this to the Tdi's?

thanks

-eddie

[stig0000]

Yes. The tdi is the same deal. But the wast gate for the 300 is a buger to grt to. The 200 tdi is very easy to get to. But on a tdi you need a boost gadge.

As for the post on td5 ecu. Yes both do montor the boost. But only the d2 actuly controls the boost.

[nice1guv]

Once undone the locknut, can you turn the shaft with pliers to shorten it or do you have to remove the pin from the other end (away from the wastegate chamber) and turn that?

[Tombie]

Once undone the locknut, can you turn the shaft with pliers to shorten it or do you have to remove the pin from the other end (away from the wastegate chamber) and turn that?

Turn ONLY the knurled bit in the middle :)

[gatesy]

Not that I would really care too much, but would doing this effect the fuel economy much?

[jakeslouw]

Depends how far you now plant your right foot mate! :p

[Urban Panzer]

Yes. The tdi is the same deal. But the wast gate for the 300 is a buger to grt to. The 200 tdi is very easy to get to. But on a tdi you need a boost gadge.

As for the post on td5 ecu. Yes both do montor the boost. But only the d2 actuly controls the boost.

Still does not make any sense to me, how can the Defender stop it self overboosting if it has no control from the ECU :confused:

[stig0000]

Still does not make any sense to me, how can the Defender stop it self overboosting if it has no control from the ECU :confused:


both cars stop over boosting buy cutting fuel,

but the d2 can actually adjust the wastegate on the turbo as well, dose that make more sense;)

def- mechanical,

d2- mechanical with electronic adjustment

[Allan]

both cars stop over boosting buy cutting fuel,

but the d2 can actually adjust the wastegate on the turbo as well, dose that make more sense;)

def- mechanical,

d2- mechanical with electronic adjustment

Thanks stig0000 adjusted the boost on the 90 today to 1.3 bar, that with the exhaust modification (lost front muffler) and no egr have made a nice change in the performance and it spools up much better. No WRX, but it is lots better.

Allan

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

Just to clarify the operation of the modulator, in a STD wastegate the actuator will act according to the pressure rise from the turbo and at a speed according to the rise rate.
With the modulator, instead of the full pressure rise being applied to the wastegate, the modulator recieves a series of variable pulses from the ECU which regulates the actuation of the wastegate allowing for boost to develop for longer, basically delaying the speed at which it actuates or letting it go thru full rate.
The ECU watches the rise rate via the boost sensor and responds by deciding the best rate of pulses to be applied.
On a D2 you can bypass the modulator, but it will affect to speed and will dump exhaust pressure quicker.
Personally I wouldn't bypass it if you have a D2.

Cheers


Andrew

[Allan]

It works reeeeeeeel well on a Defender.Tried it on the freeway this morning and from 90-100 kmh its not the same car. Son thinks it will stay with his D3 from 100 up. Don't know about that but a vast improvement, less lag, and a much nicer vehicle to drive, very happy:):):).

Allan

[stig0000]

Wate untill you get a big chip.. it will leave the d3 for dead every were. Trust me i no :p

[Fluids]

So I've finally tweaked up my wastegate this afternoon. Thanks for the how to.

2 x full turns on the adjuster to shorten the rod. Take it for a drive. Best I saw on the nanocom was 1.24 - 18psi. (Best in the past was 1.20 - 17.5psi) Did a second run and recorded the fueling to the nanocom. go home ...

Another 2 x full turns (now 4x turns) on the adjuster to further shorten the rod. Take it for a drive. Best I saw on the nanocom was 1.36 - 19.7psi ... no fuel cut-out. Did a second run and recorded the fueling to the nanocom (second run is a standing start, up hill about 20deg onto a main road, foot to the floor until 120kmhr, gear changes occuring about 4200rpm).

I loaded the fueling records from the nanocom into the laptop, and using the graphic viewer, the best of the two runs (1st run / +2x turns) showed ...

air inlet press 232.83999
ambient air press 100.26000

which makes actual boot pressure 132.57999 kpa / 19.23 psi

Definitley makes a bit of difference down low, off the line, with the boost coming ontap sooner.

Is it worth trying to squeeze a bit more out of it ? Or am I that close now, just drive it for a while and see ?

Kev..

[Milton477]

So I've finally tweaked up my wastegate this afternoon. Thanks for the how to.

2 x full turns on the adjuster to shorten the rod. Take it for a drive. Best I saw on the nanocom was 1.24 - 18psi. (Best in the past was 1.20 - 17.5psi) Did a second run and recorded the fueling to the nanocom. go home ...

Another 2 x full turns (now 4x turns) on the adjuster to further shorten the rod. Take it for a drive. Best I saw on the nanocom was 1.36 - 19.7psi ... no fuel cut-out. Did a second run and recorded the fueling to the nanocom (second run is a standing start, up hill about 20deg onto a main road, foot to the floor until 120kmhr, gear changes occuring about 4200rpm).

I loaded the fueling records from the nanocom into the laptop, and using the graphic viewer, the best of the two runs (1st run / +2x turns) showed ...

air inlet press 232.83999
ambient air press 100.26000

which makes actual boot pressure 132.57999 kpa / 19.23 psi

Definitley makes a bit of difference down low, off the line, with the boost coming ontap sooner.

Is it worth trying to squeeze a bit more out of it ? Or am I that close now, just drive it for a while and see ?

Kev..
I have adjusted mine until I can shorten the rod no more but my boost will not go any higher than 205kpa. EGR gone, silicone hoses, clean intercooler. Any thoughts?

[stig0000]

needs more fuel, to make more exhaust gasses, i found this with mine, b4 the chip, i was running 243kpa at about 4-5 threads left, put the chip on i would hit OB in first second just driving normally, had to wind the boost back heaps to compensate, just a thort,, or thats the big chip im running;)

hint, get a chip:wasntme::wasntme: ,hint,

[Milton477]

needs more fuel, to make more exhaust gasses, i found this with mine, b4 the chip, i was running 243kpa at about 4-5 threads left, put the chip on i would hit OB in first second just driving normally, had to wind the boost back heaps to compensate, just a thort,, or thats the big chip im running;)

hint, get a chip:wasntme::wasntme: ,hint,
I'm chipped I think. It says Bruce Davis on the chip but I purchased the vehicle with this chip in place so I have no idea of the details. Beginning to wonder if the fuel filter is not maybe blocked?

[Fluids]

I have adjusted mine until I can shorten the rod no more but my boost will not go any higher than 205kpa. EGR gone, silicone hoses, clean intercooler. Any thoughts?


Wastegate stuck partially open ?

If you've got a BD chip in it, it should be overboosting like crazy with the wastegate set like that!

???

Kev..

[Fluids]

needs more fuel, to make more exhaust gasses, i found this with mine, b4 the chip, i was running 243kpa at about 4-5 threads left, put the chip on i would hit OB in first second just driving normally, had to wind the boost back heaps to compensate, just a thort,, or thats the big chip im running;)

hint, get a chip:wasntme::wasntme: ,hint,



Thank you Stig!

.... so I can creep up a bit more from my 232kpa. No chip yet.

243kpa - 100kpa = 143kpa = 20.75psi .... there's another psi to be had. :)

So far at my current settings, no overboosting.

Kev..

[Redback]

Thank you Stig!

.... so I can creep up a bit more from my 232kpa. No chip yet.

243kpa - 100kpa = 143kpa = 20.75psi .... there's another psi to be had. :)

So far at my current settings, no overboosting.

Kev..

It will overboost after 237, mine did, it will also start missing(well give the feeling of missing) this is it overboosting, it doesn't always go into a default mode after overboosting, it can go into and out of limp/default mode giving the feeling it is missing, Landyandy had the same problem.

A TD5Alive or B.A.S Boost box will stop this.

Leave it at 232.

Baz.

[stig0000]

I'm chipped I think. It says Bruce Davis on the chip but I purchased the vehicle with this chip in place so I have no idea of the details. Beginning to wonder if the fuel filter is not maybe blocked?

iv tryed a few chips now,, and i do think one of them was a BD chip, and it made pretty much no difference at all, so off that tune went a another one on,

if the fuel filter is blocked bad and youv replaced it, there is another one to clean out and that is behind the fuel block, had a few were wev change the main and bugger all to no difference, clean out the fuel block filter and way we went, its a very very fine gorz filter and easily gets block with the paper from the main filter,( id rather that blocked then my injectors)

[Fluids]

Reporting back ....

Did a run to Sydney sunday to the 4WD show. Across the Moonee Moone bridge and up the other side, cruise on, at 110km/hr, and up the other side over the Hawksberry bridge, and up the hill after the Gosford exit, she pulled away happily locked in 4th with the Nanocom showing about 1.27 bar (18.5psi).

Normally on those 3 hills it will unlock in 4th and rev to about 3250rpm. It held 2500rpm locked up with the extra boost it's now got. I also notice that the cruise control seems a bit more stable ... because the boost is more/sooner it hold a more constant speed over undulating terrain ... you can feel it kicking in, and where I'd used to be lucky to see the boost hit 1.2 (usually around 1.1 to 1.16) it now runs 1.2 to 1.24.

It has really made a marked improvement! I reckon I can still wind it up a bit further :)

Kev..

[coolbigrock]

is this done with a remap/chip,or can it be done with the standard ecu.

[stig0000]

Standed is fine.. just need somthing to note your boost

[coolbigrock]

ok,that is good to know.since i have gotten my td5,i have remove the erg and also fitted a better fuel cooler(the original one is a fuel heater for when you live a cold climate like the UK,not in the Caribbean.

[coolbigrock]

OK,have done a few turns(8),i have just gotten it pass the 15 mark.it is going like a rocket now.will give it a few more just to get near the 17-18 mark.a total new land rover,since that tweak.

[robbotd5]

OK,have done a few turns(8),i have just gotten it pass the 15 mark.it is going like a rocket now.will give it a few more just to get near the 17-18 mark.a total new land rover,since that tweak.
It should be around 17 standard mate.???
Regards Robbo

[coolbigrock]

ok,i have an inter-cooler of 420mm by 200mm by 67mm,i know that is the not the size the guys normally used but can i still used,for sure it is bigger then the original.

[robbotd5]

ok,i have an inter-cooler of 420mm by 200mm by 67mm,i know that is the not the size the guys normally used but can i still used,for sure it is bigger then the original.
If it fits I can't see why not.
Regards
Robbo

[surfingooner]

When you shorten the rod on a D2 TD5, do you have to do this in conjunction with by-passing the boost modulator or can you leave that as is ? I had shortened a fair bit a few months back, but still using the modulator and have now wound back and find the car goes better this way ? I previously increased it up to 19psi but have now back to 15. Does maintaining the use of the modulator negate the effect of shortening the rod ?

[surfingooner]

When you shorten the rod on a D2 TD5, do you have to do this in conjunction with by-passing the boost modulator or can you leave that as is ? I had shortened a fair bit a few months back, but still using the modulator and have now wound back and find the car goes better this way ? I previously increased it up to 19psi but have now back to 15. Does maintaining the use of the modulator negate the effect of shortening the rod ?

Think I was being blonde ! Have shortened a little and goes better, but doesn't take much till hit overboost on the big hills !

[PhilipA]

The D2 EU3 wastegate modulator stops the valve to the wastegate from opening under 15PSI but from there on the valve is open and the physical wastegate diaphragm position and the flap position determines how much boost is available.
I understand from Offtrack that its operation is more complex than that but the net result is that the modulator stops wastegate "creep" at low boost levels and so increases boost at any position under about 15PSI compared with having no modulator like a Defender.
I have my screw adjustment wound up to about 9 turns and the boost transition is seamless up to 20PSI on my gauge positioned near the MAP sensor. Car is 2002 TD5 Auto EU3.
Regards Philip A

[Captain_Rightfoot]

Mine is at least partially covered by the heat shield. [bigsad]

[Tins]

Mine is at least partially covered by the heat shield. [bigsad]

Take it off. Give it a good spray with a proper penetrating oil ( Not WD , although that might work ) when cold. You can drive it, and in fact it may help if you do, but undo the bolts when it's cold. I've never put mine back on. I doubt it does much except prevent you putting your hand on the still hot manifold. I could be wrong about that, but I know it never prevented my second battery from getting hot.

[nismine01]

I left the heat shield off my TD5 and set the soundproofing on the bonnet alight.[bigwhistle] I would not recommend leaving it off.:rulez:
I'm going out now to wind up the boost, catch ya.[smilebigeye]

Mike

[OffTrack]

The D2 EU3 wastegate modulator stops the valve to the wastegate from opening under 15PSI but from there on the valve is open and the physical wastegate diaphragm position and the flap position determines how much boost is available.
I understand from Offtrack that its operation is more complex than that but the net result is that the modulator stops wastegate "creep" at low boost levels and so increases boost at any position under about 15PSI compared with having no modulator like a Defender.
I have my screw adjustment wound up to about 9 turns and the boost transition is seamless up to 20PSI on my gauge positioned near the MAP sensor. Car is 2002 TD5 Auto EU3.
Regards Philip A

The D2 Td5 uses what is basically an electronic boost controller.
The WGM is used to control the amount of wastegate opening to either increase or reduce boost so that it matches target boost.

When you wind up the wastegate arm to mechanically increase boost the WGM controller sees boost higher than the target level and reduces modulation % which allows more boost to reach the actuator. The net result is the wastegate setting controls boost pressure, and the effectiveness of the "anti-creep" is reduced.

If boost pressure is lower than the pressure that causes the wastegate to begin opening the WGM has no effect. Conversely the WGM can only increase pressure when boost is at a level that would otherwise cause the waste gate to begin opening.

In the last week or so I've posted some information on the WGM controller maps, and I've already has one person report 1.5bar boost with stock rod adjustment. If it's done right you get the benefits of the anti creep along with raised boost.

cheers
Paul

[sandu]

I have a new turbo on my TD5 Defender. It came with 15 threads on wastegate rod from the factory with a white color mark.
the maximum boost I have now is 1.12 bar.
if I adjust the wastegate to 11-13 threads, will this increase the boost?