Trailer Brake Controller Installation

[Normthe1]

G'day again all,

I had finally got my warranty and finance sorted, when I asked my next quick question...

"Could you please wire up the D3 for a Hayman Reece brake controller, while you have it in the workshop??

"Well, you could go to a mob on the other side of town", was the reply. I explained that I wanted LR to do it as the last car (Holden Captiva) I got wired up by a non-dealer ended up with my reverse sensors being decommissioned.

LR said they would send it to the mob that they just recommended but I reckon that is up to them as if I get them to do it, I only have to deal with them right?

Anyway, my camper has LED lights (Jayco Swan O/B) which apparently complicates things a bit on the D3? Can anyone tell me why and also let me know if I have just asked for the impossible???


Cheers,


Norm

[mowog]

First us a Tekonsha P3 much better than the Hyman

Tekonsha Website - Electric Trailer Brake Controllers and Trailer Breakaway Brake Systems (http://www.tekonsha.com/product/default.asp)

LED's you need the magic box I cant find the link at the moment.

Your dealer sounds like a bit of a slacker.

[Brick]

Normthe1,

If you are handy with tools, then consider doing it yourself. There is a separate thread for installing EBC for both the D3 and D4. I installed a Tekonsha P3 on my D3 and did not have any problems. Peters instructions were easy to follow. Took me about half a day of just plodding along and double checking everything before I would cut wires, etc.

With the LED lights, it is the pulse shunt to check for blown globes that cause the indicators to flash. As indicated by mowog, there are a couple of alternatives available to resolve this. Drivesafe from this forum sells one of the solutions. Search for the thread under this area of the forum.

Cheers

[Normthe1]

Thanks for that but over the years I have realised that I'm not a tradesman. I would rather get the dealer to put it in then they are responsible if anything goes wrong.

That will depend of course if their quote comes in at some of the prices I saw in the other threads, bloody hell!!!

Cheers again,


Norm

[sniegy]

If you are handy Norm, then this will provide some help.
If you need some questions answered, please let me know.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/51521-electric-trailer-brake-wired-photo.html

As for the LED module, highly recommend this unit.

http://www.linearelectronicdesign.com/

Cheers.

[Normthe1]

I have always said that although the missus doesn't see me as handy, at least she sees me as handsome...:cool:

Its not that I doubt anyones advice here, its more that I know my own limitations and anything to do with electrickety sits squarely within that area.

I have fired off an email about the LED module (what is the damage for one of them anyway?) but I will leave it in the capable? hands of the dealer. If he farms it out, thats his problem.

Thanks again,

Norm

[GeorgeK]

Hi Norm,

I too have just sent an email for the LED module. Although, I am a bit concerned dealing with someone who does not put advertise his address and details just simply an email address. I certainly will insist on COD if I order from him. I would be concerned about warranties etc. There is another module maker who is a sponsor for this site perhaps you can check with him. I'm not sure if I can cite his business here.

My dealer in Sydney will happily fit my brake controller as well as creating a separate cable for power between the Disco and van's batts. I would push your dealer.

I hope this helps,

George

[TDV6]

G'day Norm,

I agree get the dealer to fit the components, LR did mine and a year later redid the whole lot because of faults introduced by their in house installer.

Please use a 6mm or heavier gauge B&S (Battery and Starter) cable for the 12 volt cable running from the front battery to the rear of your car, to power the van while driving. The heavier the cable the less power drop at the other end.

Re Hayman Reece and Tekonsha, from memory Hayman owns Tekonsha, don't know if it's the same factory though. Each have several models suitable for the D3.

This is the second Heyman I've had since 2005 while at first I had a Tekonsha Prodigy, but I found it passed the 3 volt test pulse to constantly partially activate the vans electric brakes. I also use the "Phase Shunt" to isolate the vans indicators flashing etc.

Hope you enjoy your adventures,

Ryall

[Normthe1]

Thanks guys,

I would use the dealer except I have a quote for $750 for them to install the EBC (which I have to provide). They will modify the original loom so that I would not need a shunt apparently. You guys must have good dealers. I'm happy with the EBC I have, it seems to work fine so I'm not going to replace it and add to the cost.

I will now probably take Sniegy's instructions to an Auto Electrician and get him to do the job. Even with the purchase of the shunt, if it even gets anywhere near $500 then I am still miles in front, I reckon.

Having no experience with LR dealers previously I am slowly going off them. I have only ever seen less helpfulness from a dealer and that was the Holden dealer in Darwin, where customer service is almost non-existent due to the lack of competition. I wonder if that is the problem here as there are only two LR dealers in Perth and one owns the other.

Anyway, I will go see the sparky tomorrow and see what they say.


Cheers,


Norm

[sniegy]

Norm,
If you are ever in Melb, drop in & i wil do it for you;)

Cheers

[Normthe1]

Damn...

Maybe I should've sourced my vehicle from Vic...was looking at a couple too.


Cheers Pete,


Norm

[Normthe1]

Just got my mechanic mate to wire in the EBC.

Thanks Sneigy for your instructions, everything worked like clockwork except that it would appear that I have a short between pins 5 and 7 of the plug on the car.:eek:

We even disconnected the plug wiring at the connector inside the rear left cubby and worked out that there is a connection between those pins, the wiring harness must be wired incorrectly or something.

I will give the dealer a ring on Monday because we ( the mechanic and I) both agree that the way it is, if you turned the car lights on then the trailer brakes would lock on!!!:nazilock:

The way we have tested, it has to be the harness going to the plug, it will be interesting to hear what the dealer has to say.

I will keep you posted...


Norm

[sniegy]

Norm,
IN the fuse box for the trailer circuit (l/h/r corner), have you cut the brown wire & soldered it to the black wire?
I have seen many people do this fitout & forget to cut the wire(brown) as this is the second park light circuit that is not used for Australia.
Then when all connected it will cause the trailer brakes to lock when the lights are turned on.

Cheers.

[Normthe1]

Pete,

I think you might be onto something because the brown and black wires have definitely not been joined. The guy who did it has not used the same colours as you and I was not looking over his shoulder at the time so I'm unable to make a confident assessment of the rest of the connections.:eek:

When we were trying to work out why the park lights were tripping pin 5 we cut the brown wire downstream of the connector to see if we had current between pins 5 and 7, which we did. That was why he said there had to be an issue between where we were and the plug.

Anyway, I will take it back up to him and see what he reckons.


Cheers again Pete,


Norm

[Preacher]

Norm,
If you are ever in Melb, drop in & i wil do it for you;)

Cheers

D3 - My first post on this forum. I'm from Wangaratta NE Vic and am looking for a LR competant auto elec in the area. Also have family in Romsey Vic (a couple of LR mechanics there I think) Looking for recommendation. Need triple batteries installed - led trailer set up, 12 volt points thru out and led internal and rooftop tent lighting

thanks
dj

[Normthe1]

Okay, I think I have it sussed.

I joined the brown and blacks together as per the instructions and then put the multimeter onto pin 5 and got a series of short beeps, which I assume are the 3v pulses that the D3 sends to the lights.

I then installed the pulse shunt from www.linearelectronicdesign.com and the pulse went away so I assume that the shunt works.:cool:

I ran out of daylight and the smell of whatever SWMBO was cooking drove me inside:D so I will hook up the van tomorrow arvo and give it a test.

One thing though Sneigy, when I cut and joined the brown and black wires from the fuse block, it obviously leaves two ends, one brown and the other black that just hang there.:eek: I just put a bit of leccy tape over the ends and left them swinging, is that right?


Norm

[sniegy]

QUOTE "One thing though Sneigy, when I cut and joined the brown and black wires from the fuse block, it obviously leaves two ends, one brown and the other black that just hang there.:eek: I just put a bit of leccy tape over the ends and left them swinging, is that right?"

Not quite Norm,
The brown wire you have cut at the fuse block end (normally about an inch or so from the fuse block itself)needs to be joined into the black (no need to cut the black wire as this is your park light circuit) wire leaving only the brown wire free, this is where you would join the blue wire from your trailer bake unit.

Confused yet ?:eek:

All u need to do is join the 2 black wires & the brown at the fuse block end together.
Then connect the blue wire to the brown wire that is left.

The black wire is your park light cicuit so if u cut this you wont have park lights.

The brown wire that goes into the loom actually goes to pin no. 5 on the black plug, its the variable volatge feed to your brakes.

Any queries ring me at work 03 9684 1021

Cheers

[Normthe1]

As they say in that Honda add from last year...Isn't it nice when things just come together?

I was just jumping on to say that how it is, I have indicators and brake lights, however have no running lights nor power to the trailer brakes. I just read your post and now I know why...:p

That makes a lot of sense except that now I think I have joined the blue wire to the wrong brown wire???

Yes, mildly confused but will have another look tomorrow after I knock off work. Was madly wiring last night in the dark and methinks thats possible where I started going wrong.

Cheers again Pete.

You know, you should turn professional and start charging for your advice...from the next bloke after me seems like a logical place to start...:angel:

[sniegy]

[thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig][thumbsupbig]
Very nice....

[Normthe1]

Who would have thought Sneigy, that you would be right!!!;)

Only jokes of course, I never doubted you for a second. All problems solved, everything working and brown with orange stripe wire that was joined into unnecessarily normalled back up.

Actually, one thing. The only time the little green trailer light on the dash lights up (with trailer connected) is when the indicators are on? Only bit of literature I can see says that it should come on when the trailer is connected, is that right??? Probably my fault again too...

I can't thank you enough Pete, seriously.

I have also attached a couple of photo's of "the rig". I think it looks all right and once again I am glad I got a white D3. :cool:

Next shots will be from Shark Bay next month.


Norm

[sniegy]

Norm, Thanks for the kind words.

& Yes Norm, The light only comes on with the "extra" load.:p

Dont forget to take lots of photo's, i will get there one day.

Cheers

[Watpub]

Nice looking outfit Norm. Have a great trip...

Regards, Ron