Alternator Removal

[rapserv]

hi all,
stuck here in darwin with what appears to be a dodgy alternator.
I should be heading down the west coast tomorrow but I'm concerned about losing the frozen stuff in the the car fridge because the alternator doesn't seem to be able to keep a higher charge level ... i'm assuming this is possibly due to badly worn brushes.
Questions... 1) can the brushes in a disco 2 (TD5) be replaced. If so can somebody advise a name and part number to suit (I cannot see the label on the alternator)
2) How the hell do you get the thing out ... via top or bottom????
It looks like half the bloody engine has to be removed to extract it. :mad:
I 've spent the last 2 hours hunting around darwin trying to find a spanner to remove the viscous fan only to purchase a 1 1/4" (32mm) open ender only to find it's not the right size .. :mad::mad::mad::mad:
It's hard to imagine a team of mechanical engineers designing such a lousy engine compartment with virtually no room to do anything...and such little dash room to do anything... not surprising they went under.

Anyhow... sitting here in the mid 30's and a humidity of 70% after getting know where with the local (less than useless) LR dealer , if anyone can assist with advice on the above it would be most appreciated
thanks ... dave

[BigJon]

If you remove the fan shroud the alternator will come out the top. Put a sheet of cardboard up against the radiator to protect it.

My advise is a new replacement unit rather than reconditioning the original alternator. New ones come with a new vac pump.

If you need advise ring Sutton Motors in Alice Springs (08 8952 1334). They actually know what they are doing with LRs...

[rapserv]

If you remove the fan shroud the alternator will come out the top. Put a sheet of cardboard up against the radiator to protect it.

My advise is a new replacement unit rather than reconditioning the original alternator. New ones come with a new vac pump.

If you need advise ring Sutton Motors in Alice Springs (08 8952 1334). They actually know what they are doing with LRs...

thanks bigjon,
are you talking about a 2001 disco 2 TD5 ... because I can't see that the alternator will physically come out the top without removing a lot of other components:eek:

[adonuff]

Hi had to get mine done just after I bought it, I didnt have time to do it myself and still wish I had made the effort. They charged me a fortune to do it.

If you have a manual or Rave cd it shows all the steps.

When you get it out check for oil leaks above where the alt sits, this is what killed mine, totally destroyed the brushes and commutator.

[BigJon]

It will come out, but it is a tight squeeze. Hence the protection for the radiator.

[stevep84]

I have done mine before, it is a pain.
To get it out i removed the battery, moved the computer and took out the battery box. Also removed the intercooler pipe. You will also need a fairly large Torx bit to undo the mounting bolt.
Doing it this way there was no need to remove the viscous fan.

Hope this helps

[Blknight.aus]

I have done mine before, it is a pain.
To get it out i removed the battery, moved the computer and took out the battery box. Also removed the intercooler pipe. You will also need a fairly large Torx bit to undo the mounting bolt.
Doing it this way there was no need to remove the viscous fan.

Hope this helps

that way.

This unfinished thread on my provent install shows the alternator removal process short of undoing the last bolts that hold it in place.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/56973-fitting-mann-hummel-provent-ccv-blowby-oil-sepertator.html

[QLDMIKE]

They are easy to get out once there is no fan in the way. I replaced all of the bearings, brushes and regulator for just under $150. As long as the slip rings still have a good amount of meat it will be fine. A new one is just over $500 from CLR 4wd parts.

They are a nippon denzo, and the actual alternator (minus vac pump) has been used on older hiluxes I believe.

[sparks]

Mine TD5 is in at the mechanics at the moment for alternator replacement.
They removed the intercooler pipe,radiator shroud and cooling fan to get it out.
No need to touch battery/computer compartment.
Got my alternator ( Genuine ) for $550 + post from CLR 4wd parts on Ebay.

The regulator had packed it in on the old one.I did try to hunt down another on the internet but to no avail.

Cheers Garry

[M&S]

Changed mine last week.

Remove battery negative.
Remove fan cowl.
Remove fan (36mm or Ford/GM fan spanner fits perfectly).
Remove belt and tensioner.
Remove vac pipe, oil feed and drain pipe from vac pump.
Remove battery cable from alternator.
Remove lower alternator mounting bolt.
Remove upper alternator bracket.

Pull alternator and vac pump forward.
Disconnect plug on back of alternator.
Continue to pul alternator forward and up/out.

If it's really tight you could remove the vac pump first, just 4 bolts, then remove the alternator.

It is a bit tight, but not difficult to do.


As far as I can find out there are no brush kits available to service these alternators.

[Piddler]

If you can wait a few days I just checked Padddock spares online 125GBP which is $218.00.

Freight could not be that much.

Locally here from Sydney nearly $600 Australian. I presume Land Rover would be close to $1K Shows how we get ripped.

Cheers

[gazk]

They are easy to get out once there is no fan in the way. I replaced all of the bearings, brushes and regulator for just under $150.

What were the part numbers for the rebuild bits ? Who stocks them?

Thanks

[Pinelli]

Changed mine last week.

Remove battery negative.
Remove fan cowl.
Remove fan (36mm or Ford/GM fan spanner fits perfectly).
Remove belt and tensioner.
Remove vac pipe, oil feed and drain pipe from vac pump.
Remove battery cable from alternator.
Remove lower alternator mounting bolt.
Remove upper alternator bracket.

Pull alternator and vac pump forward.
Disconnect plug on back of alternator.
Continue to pul alternator forward and up/out.

If it's really tight you could remove the vac pump first, just 4 bolts, then remove the alternator.

It is a bit tight, but not difficult to do.


As far as I can find out there are no brush kits available to service these alternators.

Thanks for this. Just pulled my alternator and I'm hoping the local auto leccy can fix it. Price of a new one is massive!

For those who follow:

Lower alternator bracket is held on with a torx bolt - a T50 to be precise. A socket T50 is best - the T50 allen key style drive I bought from supercheap was too long in one direction, and too short in the other.

To remove the viscous fan hub, I used a vice grip (locking wrench) and a ring spanner on one of the bolts on the fan pulley. Worked pretty well - chewed the fan bolt a little, but cheaper and quicker than trying to get a 36mm narrow spanner :) Hopefully it will be only once in ten years I have to pull it off.

[newlandyowner]

I had mine done a few months ago.

Removed it myself, took it to Chamberlain Auto Electrics in Welshpool, Perth.

They replaced the brushes, regulator and tested it for around $260 from memory. I remember it wasnt alot.
They had the brushes in stock but had to order in the regulator, which was there the same afternoon.

Apperantley the stators wear out which is the costly part.

I would use them again, very helpfull and friendly.

[QLDMIKE]

What were the part numbers for the rebuild bits ? Who stocks them?

Thanks

Bearing - BEX6203
Denso Reg - RGX2051
Bearing - BEX2007
Bearing - BEX2004 and whatever
RPL N/D B/Holder 80/100 AMP ALTS - 13 70350 is.

Hope that helps. Sorry for the delay in response time.