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isuzurover
8th June 2010, 02:34 AM
Then the spring may be hitting the bump stop spacer:

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/Misc_June_2010010.jpg

Curiously was driver's side only. The panhard and radius arm bushes were worn, which may have caused it. The radius arm was also slightly longer than a spare one I have - so I swapped them over.

rick130
8th June 2010, 06:40 AM
Same here, and it only happened when I fitted the new springs all those years ago, the OE ones never distorted out there to hit.

garryseries3
8th June 2010, 07:02 AM
Same here, and it only happened when I fitted the new springs all those years ago, the OE ones never distorted out there to hit.

Well soon I am going to change over my suspension once the isuzu is slotted into my 130 so what springs did you use, so I know what not to get? Do the type of shockers change this happening what would you recomend to avoid this pit fall occuring.
regards
Garry

rick130
8th June 2010, 07:22 AM
Garry, usually it's caused by not too a good a spring ;)
The spring is bowing over to one side under compression, good coils shouldn't do this.

I highly doubt really good springs like Eibach would do this, but most Aussie made springs aren't that flash IMO, not the best alloy steel and heat treatment from what I read and was told back when I raced.

The best spring steels come from overseas (US and Europe) the Aussie made springs steels aren't considered optimal and all Aussie winders hot wind from what I can gather, again, it may be becasue of the steel used, whereas the good spring makers OS cold wind when using wire up to (IIRC) 5/8" and only hot wind when using wire above that diameter.
The big boys OS also have a far wider range of wire diameters to choose from to get the optimal spring. ie lowest stress with the minimum block/coil bound height.

Rangier Rover
8th June 2010, 09:59 AM
Interesting, my 120" has done the exact same thing. Has very long front coils and 80 series shocks.

isuzurover
8th June 2010, 10:02 AM
Interesting, my 120" has done the exact same thing. Has very long front coils and 80 series shocks.

Only on the driver's side?

I have King standard height coils and rover bilsteins.

Rangier Rover
8th June 2010, 10:10 AM
[QUOTE=isuzurover;1267865]Only on the driver's side?

Yep, very annoying too:mad:

isuzurover
8th June 2010, 02:41 PM
[quote]

Yep, very annoying too:mad:

Is your axle centred?

I have 2 standard panhard rods, and there was ~5mm difference in the bush centres between them. I am changing to the shorter rod, which between that and new bushes may move the axle over enough so it doesn't happen...

Rangier Rover
8th June 2010, 02:45 PM
[quote=Rangier Rover;1267872]

Is your axle centred?
I have 2 standard panhard rods, and there was ~5mm difference in the bush centres between them. I am changing to the shorter rod, which between that and new bushes may move the axle over enough so it doesn't happen...

Not really, the previous owner set it up for a 4" lift so I may have to have a good look at it when I fit the front air bags.

isuzurover
8th June 2010, 03:00 PM
[quote=isuzurover;1268018]

Not really, the previous owner set it up for a 4" lift so I may have to have a good look at it when I fit the front air bags.

If you have 4" lift and a standard panhard then the axle should be over the driver's side not the passenger. Unless they lengthened the panhard (too much?).

Rangier Rover
8th June 2010, 05:21 PM
[quote=Rangier Rover;1268021]

If you have 4" lift and a standard panhard then the axle should be over the driver's side not the passenger. Unless they lengthened the panhard (too much?).

Lengthened too much:(, I may try to find an adjustable jobbie.

rick130
8th June 2010, 05:50 PM
Easy enough to check, set up a string line around the vehicle at hub height, centred off the centreline of the chassis then measure back from the string to your hubs/wheels.

Do a toe check while you're there too :D

Rangier Rover
8th June 2010, 06:07 PM
Easy enough to check, set up a string line around the vehicle at hub height, centred off the centreline of the chassis then measure back from the string to your hubs/wheels.

Do a toe check while you're there too :D

I'll get all this air suspension working first, then see if the actual best ride height is what the bags and pistons are designed to be.
Then I'll set every thing to suit. Should drive and ride like a Rangie once all done.:cool:
Nothing wrong with string lines,:) nor using a plumb bob and chalking it all on concrete to make sure all is nice and square.

rick130
8th June 2010, 07:14 PM
I'll get all this air suspension working first, then see if the actual best ride height is what the bags and pistons are designed to be.
Then I'll set every thing to suit. Should drive and ride like a Rangie once all done.:cool:
Nothing wrong with string lines,:) nor using a plumb bob and chalking it all on concrete to make sure all is nice and square.


Sounds good Tony :thumbsup:

My old race mechanic was the head mechanic at a well known and very large Ford dealership in Sydney.
He loved my stringlines, reckoned they were at least as accurate as the laser aligner at work, and quicker. :D

I also used a digital inclinometer/level for camber/caster, so we had it covered. :lol2:

roverrescue
23rd June 2010, 11:27 AM
Sorry to drag this one up again...
Ben did the shorter panhard fix the clunks?

My 130 (300tdi) with king springs has the clunks and sure enough I have a wear mark on the drivers side - not as bad as yours!!!

I have a spare panhard, If you "fixed" it with a shorter bar I will use the shorter one with new bushes and go from there.

Steve