TD5 Head bolt oops

[Rudolf]

While going through the torque steps the No. 2 head bolt felt a bit tighter than the others.
It barly made the 180deg step when it was so tight the socket twisted(Sheared) the splines of the bolt head.
Only the 45deg step to go but what will the consequinces be?:(
Blown gasket soon due?:(
I did use the correct type of socket for these bolts and the bolts was not dropped in.
It only needs to last at least 50000 to 75000km's then a overhaul is due.
That would be at least 300000km's.
Getting it off is what bothers me also.

[Blknight.aus]

did you oil all of the bolt before inserting it? how about the underside of the head.

While it will work with the missing 45 degrees I'd say that it wont be helping the head/gasket very much and it will give up if you start working the engine hard.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/45962-heeeeeelp-td5-headbolt-broken-need-mobile-tig-welder.html

theres a link on how to get it out.

[Rudolf]

did you oil all of the bolt before inserting it? how about the underside of the head.

While it will work with the missing 45 degrees I'd say that it wont be helping the head/gasket very much and it will give up if you start working the engine hard.


http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/45962-heeeeeelp-td5-headbolt-broken-need-mobile-tig-welder.html

theres a link on how to get it out.
Thanks,
I did not oil the threads as there was oil in the block's threads already.
Nor did I oil the under side of bolt heads.
Will try a different socket in the morning.

[PhilipA]

Sounds like it might have hydraulic locked to me.
Regards Philip A

[Rudolf]

Sounds like it might have hydraulic locked to me.
Regards Philip A
It was tighter than the others right from the first turn by hand.
What's my options?

1) Try and tighten it more this morning and leave as is?
2) Remove it and replace with old bolt?:eek: A sinlge new bolt is very difficult to come by. Would have to get a whole new set.

I am a bit in between a rock and hard place.:(

[PhilipA]

I did not oil the threads as there was oil in the block's threads already.


I am not familair with the setup of a TD5 but generally I make sure that all sockets are clean and dry before trying to fit head bolts. On a V8 I go to the extent of picking sealant out with a dentist's probe, then blowing out with compressed air , then drying with cotton cloth on a screwdriver.

if you have a pool of oil in the bottom of the block hole , it can easily hydraulically lock.

I would try to get a single bolt and failing that reuse the old bolt in your position.

Regards Philip A

[Rudolf]

I am not familair with the setup of a TD5 but generally I make sure that all sockets are clean and dry before trying to fit head bolts. On a V8 I go to the extent of picking sealant out with a dentist's probe, then blowing out with compressed air , then drying with cotton cloth on a screwdriver.

if you have a pool of oil in the bottom of the block hole , it can easily hydraulically lock.

I would try to get a single bolt and failing that reuse the old bolt in your position.

Regards Philip A
The bolt made quite a chattering sound on the 180deg turn.
Will try and get a bolt tomorrow.

[Bigbjorn]

Did you run a tap and a die over the threads before installing?

[Blknight.aus]

the bolts can be had seperately try MR automotive or fourwheeldrives down in melbourne.

providing you didnt finish the torqing procedure you should be ok to undo the bolts and go again HOWEVER...

if it was mine

I would be springing for a new set of bolts and going again potentially with a new head gasket.

[Rudolf]

Did you run a tap and a die over the threads before installing?
Did not want to do this to prevent the shavings from entering the engine.
I'm, going to replace the sinlge bolt on Monday.

[LOVEMYRANGIE]

The bolt may also have stretched. Generally, bolts where angles are specified for tensioning are TTY or Torque To Yield and these are designed to stretch.

The most common stretch point is where the thread starts on the shank of the bolt. Visually, you will see increased gap at the this point than at the thread start at the bottom.
It usually aligns with how deep the thread actually is on the block, but upper thread damage in the female is also attributed with over tensioning a TTY bolt which pulls the tops out starting the whole stripped thread thing
If any bolts are like this, chuck them and use new bolts.

As the stretched section of the bolt starts to take up in the block thread, they get tight and can either seize or start to strip or cross thread.

I would carefully try to remove it and replace it with a new bolt.
May need to use an impact socket if you broke a normal one, but dont put sudden effort on the bolt, just lean on it and ease it out.

Cheers

Andrew

[Bigbjorn]

If doing any serious engine building you should always clean the threads of critical fasteners with a tap or a die before installing. Even new fasteners. Remember these are made by the thousand on automatic machines with tooling that has a finite life and items made at the latter end of tool life may be inaccurate size and poorly finished. Try to only use High Speed Steel tools as opposed to carbon or chrome tungsten steel tools. HSS tools are made to a standard of tolerance whereas the others are not.

[Tank]

If doing any serious engine building you should always clean the threads of critical fasteners with a tap or a die before installing. Even new fasteners. Remember these are made by the thousand on automatic machines with tooling that has a finite life and items made at the latter end of tool life may be inaccurate size and poorly finished. Try to only use High Speed Steel tools as opposed to carbon or chrome tungsten steel tools. HSS tools are made to a standard of tolerance whereas the others are not.
Spot on Brian, I think it is folly to try and get true torque values without running a tap down every head bolt hole, once tapped, cleaned and LIGHTLY oiled you should test fit each and every head bolt, you should be able to bottom out a bolt by hand and not to use oil under the bolt head is folly as well, Regards Frank.

[Rudolf]

I bough a new set of bolts (Victor Rienz) just in case I had to remove the head.
The old bolt took some carefull work to get out.
Pushed a smaller rod into the hole and it whent straight through.
Theres a hole in the bottom of No. 2 bolt.
Cleaned out oil as far as i could, inserted the new bolt by hand.
It went in smoothly without any problems.
There already was oil on the threads in the head so I did not bother oiling the bolts.
The first two steps when smoothly but the 90deg started to show similar symptoms.
In the start of the 180deg the bolt chattered a lot then suddenly made a klapping sound.
After that the bolt turned as the others did before.
The 45deg whent smoothly also as the others did.
Will see how it lasts.
Only if I could get the stupid engine started.:mad: