TD5 Oil recommendations

[land864]

Did a search but info was from 2004.

The 02 TD5 Fender is due for a 60,000km service

Any oil recommendations for ;

Engine
Gearbox and transfer case
Diffs

The diffs and gearbox etc are not due according to service sched but they were not done at the 40,000km service.

A fella from Lucas Oils ( no smoke here ) came to our club to give talk a while ago and they seem to be a good product , particularly with additives

Pete G

[Psimpson7]

I use:

Engine - Valvoline Synpower 5w/40
GearBox - Castrol Syntrans (if you can find it)
Transfer and Diffs-Penrite Hypoid 80/90

Rgds
Pete

[5teve]

although the subject has been beaten to death... ;)

I use Penrite HPR deisel 5 exclusively in both my td5's

other oils... not sure! :D

also use penrite in the boat as valvoline about 1.5 years ago changed and started to cause partial seizing... (2 stroke)

Steve

[Tombie]

Penrite

[land864]

Wherabouts Steve:confused:

I thought it should have been but my search only dug up stuff from 2004 :o

Pete

[5teve]

Dont worry I only meant it tongue in cheek :D

But yes it has been covered a number of times.. probably in technical chatter..

im talking over the years tho....

Steve

[catch-22]

Engine - Mobil Delvac 1

As recommended from the sites best known oil man

[rick130]

[snip]

A fella from Lucas Oils ( no smoke here ) came to our club to give talk a while ago and they seem to be a good product , particularly with additives

Pete G


No decent oil needs added additives ;)

Put it this way, if your oil needs additives, you need a better oil. :D

[CraigE]

Engine :
Penrite HPR Diesel 5 (What I use)
Castrol FormulaR 5w 30 or 40
BP Visco 5000
Valvoline Synpower 5
Shel Helix Ultra 5w
Caltex Havoline 5w 40

Gearbox :
Caltex MTF 94 (if you can get it)
BP Energear 75w85
Castrol Syntrans 75w85 80 or VMX 75w80 (cheaper than Syntrans)
Penrite Man Gear 75w80

Transfer Case
Castrol Syntrans 75w 90
Penrite Syngear 75w90
Valvoline Synth 75w90
Shell Spiral A90ls
Caltex Synstar 75w90

Diffs
BP Hypo 80w90
Castrol EPX 80w90
Penrite Syngear 75w90
Valvoline HPGearOil 80w90
Shel Spiral A90ls
Caltex Thuban EP80w90

From my experience transfer case and diff oils can be interchanged with no ill effect, but that is just me and not gospel.
You can also go Redline Oils if you have money to burn.
I carry a business card in my wallet with all these on it so that if I need stuff without having the manual specs or just forget is easy.

[George130]

I use
Engine
Penrite HPR Diesel 5

Gearbox (auto)
Caltex transmax z

For diffs and transfere just go with the manual specs.

[Blknight.aus]

I used to use nulon synthetic of the appropriate grade for the location in the engine

DEX III in the box and tcase

and

nulon 80/90 in the diffs.

[rick130]

I used to use nulon synthetic of the appropriate grade for the location in the engine

DEX III in the box and tcase

and

nulon 80/90 in the diffs.

Ewww, it's not chain drive :p

[Slunnie]

Engine - Mobil Delvac 1

As recommended from the sites best known oil man
Same, except I just use Mobil 1

[Blknight.aus]

Ewww, it's not chain drive :p

no, its not, if it was Id have used 80/90, 85/140 or grease...

[rick130]

no, its not, if it was Id have used 80/90, 85/140 or grease...

Most all chain drive t/cases the world over spec ATF, although ours is running 75W-90 ;)

[carlosbeldia]

Go Mobil 1 0W40.... you won't regret...... it's a HUUUUGGGGGEEEE difference with Castrol Syn....... specially at morning with temps under 10 C

[Blknight.aus]

Most all chain drive t/cases the world over spec ATF, although ours is running 75W-90 ;)

ahhhh, not a real chain drive then..... (brain fart, I've been working plant all this week.....)

I still use ATF in the lt230 for vehicles that predominantly do highway work.

[rick130]

Go Mobil 1 0W40.... you won't regret...... it's a HUUUUGGGGGEEEE difference with Castrol Syn....... specially at morning with temps under 10 C

Hmm, depending on viscosity index I'd be surprised there's eff all difference between a 10W and 0W at 0*C.

Now at -30*C......

anyway most here know my preference, I'd plump for a full diesel spec oil, ie. API CI-4+, CJ-4, ACEA E4/6/7, just more robust than a dual spec API CF/ACEA A3/B3/4 rated oil, but that's just me :D

[rick130]

Go Mobil 1 0W40.... you won't regret...... it's a HUUUUGGGGGEEEE difference with Castrol Syn....... specially at morning with temps under 10 C


Now here are some numbers for both M1 0W-40 and Edge 0W-40.

Edge 0W-40 kinematic viscosities
100*C = 13.5 cSt
40*C = 79.3 cSt
Viscosity Index = 150
calculated viscosity @ 0*C = 651 cSt

M1 0W-40 kinematic viscosities
100*C = 14 cSt
40*C = 78.3 cSt
Viscosity Index = 186
calculated viscosity @ 0*C = 590 cSt

Generally speaking, to get a higher viscosity index in any oil you use a thinner base oil and 'boost' it with polymeric thickeners known as 'viscosity index improvers'.
These VII's reduce the thinning of a thin base oil as it gets hotter, but, most (but not all) lead to shear in use, ie. they break done with time and abuse and the oil becomes thinner with age.
M1 0W-40 was known in the past to do this to a degree, more so than competitive 'premium' oils, in the end basically becoming a thick 0W-30.
Whether the new formulations do this I don't know, but it always was an excellent oil with probably more manufacturer approvals than any other syn oil on the market.

and just to add to the mix

Penrite SIN Diesel 5W-4
100*C = 14.2 cSt
40*C = 86 cSt
Viscosity index = 171
calculated viscosity at 0*C = 734 cSt
NOACK volatility 12.5% (the other two don't publish this number, but with M1's high viscosity index, at a guess it's NOACK # will be higher than this.
the NOACK # is important in terms of the amount of oil you consume, ie the amount that flashes off in the ring land area, etc. in other words how often you'll be topping your oil off ;)

Penrite Diesel SP 10W-40 (old spec that I'm currently running)

100*c = 15.1 cSt
40*C = 100 cSt
Viscosity index = 159 (Penrite list 155)
calculated viscosity @ 0*C = 975 cSt
NOACK Volatility = 9.5%

This is an ultra high performance heavy duty diesel oil meeting ACEA E4/E6/E7 and API CJ-4 and not to be used in petrol engines.

It's recently been revised to these specs....

100*C = 14.3
40*C = 90
Viscosity Index = 165
calculated viscosity @ 0*C = 816 cSt


Not a lot in it, and if it was my TD5 I'd probably pick the SIN Diesel or Diesel SP (or Mobil Delvac 1 or Caltex Delo 400 or Castrol Enduron, etc ) as I've destroyed big ends in a Tdi from overloading yet never spun a bearing and I put that down to the premium HD diesel lubes I used, Delvac 1 and Diesel SP, but any of them will work well in a sensibly driven TD5 and give a long service life.

Choose whichever is easiest to find and you can get the best deal on.

[Koukandowie Brangus]

Engine :
Penrite HPR Diesel 5 (What I use)
Castrol FormulaR 5w 30 or 40
BP Visco 5000
Valvoline Synpower 5
Shel Helix Ultra 5w
Caltex Havoline 5w 40

Gearbox :
Caltex MTF 94 (if you can get it)
BP Energear 75w85
Castrol Syntrans 75w85 80 or VMX 75w80 (cheaper than Syntrans)
Penrite Man Gear 75w80

Transfer Case
Castrol Syntrans 75w 90
Penrite Syngear 75w90
Valvoline Synth 75w90
Shell Spiral A90ls
Caltex Synstar 75w90

Diffs
BP Hypo 80w90
Castrol EPX 80w90
Penrite Syngear 75w90
Valvoline HPGearOil 80w90
Shel Spiral A90ls
Caltex Thuban EP80w90

From my experience transfer case and diff oils can be interchanged with no ill effect, but that is just me and not gospel.
You can also go Redline Oils if you have money to burn.
I carry a business card in my wallet with all these on it so that if I need stuff without having the manual specs or just forget is easy.

Is this meant to be syntrax 75/90? hope so or im running the wrong stuff:(

[carlosbeldia]

Wow, good numbers those you provide in here. I really don't have a technical knowledge of oil, but I'm certain that my TD5 starts a lot better since I use Mobil 1. With others oil (used to use Delvac Diesel 15w40 and Castrol Syn 5w40) the morning start was a really hard task, specially in Bogota, with 5 celsius.... all these problems ends when 0w40 appears in my life...:D

In addition, the other ones only get dirty after a lot of mileage. When first time using M1, after around 30 miles the oil was completly black, I suppose it's good for cleaning purposes. Due to bad quality of diesel here in Colombia, I really needs a good oil to protect the engine....

[CraigE]

Wow, good numbers those you provide in here. I really don't have a technical knowledge of oil, but I'm certain that my TD5 starts a lot better since I use Mobil 1. With others oil (used to use Delvac Diesel 15w40 and Castrol Syn 5w40) the morning start was a really hard task, specially in Bogota, with 5 celsius.... all these problems ends when 0w40 appears in my life...:D

In addition, the other ones only get dirty after a lot of mileage. When first time using M1, after around 30 miles the oil was completly black, I suppose it's good for cleaning purposes. Due to bad quality of diesel here in Colombia, I really needs a good oil to protect the engine....

The 15W40 oil is way to heavy for a TD5 and will inhibit performance. The oil that should be used is 0w or 5w. 0w is great for cooler climates (ideal for you) and 5w for warmer. Castrol Syn5w40 should have been ok but not my choice oil. And then there is synthetic, semi synthetic and fossil oil.

[CraigE]

Is this meant to be syntrax 75/90? hope so or im running the wrong stuff:(

No not really, There is both Syntrans and Syntrax available. But 75/90 you are right should be Syntrax, but Syntrans can be used in place. Bit of a typo and I can not edit atm.

Product Application
Castrol Syntrans 75W/85 is recommended for manual transmissions
where excellent synchroniser performance is required or where severe
duty or extended drain intervals are experienced. Also recommended
for passenger car and light commercial vehicle transmissions,
transaxles and transfer cases where API GL 3 or 4 and SAE 75W/85 or
80 viscosity is specified.
Castrol Syntrans 75W/85 has proved to provide the best synchroniser
performance in Mitsubishi, Pajero, Galant VR4 and Lancer GSR manual
transmissions. Also effective in Holden Jackaroo and Rodeo manual
transmissions for best cold shift performance, as well as in competition
applications.
Castrol Syntrans M is our prime recommendation for long drain
applications in Eaton Road Ranger, Spicer and Rockwell truck
transmissions, in both normal and severe duty conditions. It is suitable
for both synchronised and non-synchronised manual transmissions. It
is particularly recommended for long haul interstate trucks, b-double,
road train and other severe duty applications. However it may also be
used in manual transmissions of cars and light commercial vehicles
where API GL4 and SAE 75W/90 or SAE 40 or 50 engine oils are
recommended.
Syntrans
75W/85
Syntrans M
B1312/99


Castrol Syntrax 75W-90
Full synthetic SAE 75W/90, API GL5. manual transmission, transaxle and rear axle lubricant with outstanding extreme pressure, synchronizer and high temperature performance. For vehicles that combine gearbox and hypoid diffs, rear axles of light cars and secondary drive axles of 4WD vehicles.

[carlosbeldia]

I live in Cartagena, where cool temps are around 25 celsius at morning, with peaks of 40 celsius during day. However, its very noticeable the difference between o and 5, at least in the first start in the morning. Do you think a 10w40 (Mobil 2000, semi synth) is too thick for these conditions. Here, every change costs me around AUD 155 in oil and AUD 80 both filters. With 10w40, the oil costs gor around AUD 75, less than a half.

[rick130]

I live in Cartagena, where cool temps are around 25 celsius at morning, with peaks of 40 celsius during day. However, its very noticeable the difference between o and 5, at least in the first start in the morning. Do you think a 10w40 (Mobil 2000, semi synth) is too thick for these conditions. Here, every change costs me around AUD 155 in oil and AUD 80 both filters. With 10w40, the oil costs gor around AUD 75, less than a half.

Hi Carlos, the Castrol 5W-40 you were running is a totally different brew to the 0W-40 oil we have here, yours is a North American market formula with different specs.
A 10W-40 will be fine. Any links to that oil at all ?
You want it to at least have an API CF or ACEA B3 diesel rating, but as I've often stated, I prefer CI-4 to CJ-4 and ACEA E4 to 7 diesel oil specs in diesels, unless a manufacturer has a specific specification they call for.

Now this will cause a $#!* fight.

Regarding different viscosities, if it never gets below 10*C you can easily use a 15W-40 heavy duty diesel oil if it has a relatively high viscosity index.
Most all 15W-40's are thinner at 10*C than any 5W-40 is going to be at -10*C, and -10* isn't that cold for a 5W oil.
The TD5 doesn't use hydraulically activated injectors so it isn't that viscosity sensitive anyway, and I know of certain 15W-40 oils that are thinner at around 0*C than some 5 and 10W-40's.

The 'W' ratings refer to an oils pumping pressure at certain temperatures well below 0*, they often aren't a good indicator at how an oil behaves from around 0* and above.
While lubricating oils behave in a Newtonian fashion, (ie, the warmer they become, the thinner they become) the viscosity changes with temperature aren't always in a linear fashion either.

[LowRanger]

For day to day use:- Penrite SP Diesel is fine for most light commercial Diesel applications.

For use in an expedition vehicle,that was going to be used in hot/cold harsh conditions,or conditions where the vehicle was under a lot of load or carrying a lot of weight for extended periods,where the engine temps were going to be high.Or in something like an OBC vehicle,I would recommend a Polyol ester based oil.And yes,oils ain't oils.There are reasons that only 3 brands of oil are recommended for use in Jet engines,because they are the only oils that will withstand the constant heat generated!!!! Would you trust an oil advertised by a cricketer,or a radio announcer???

Wayne

[carlosbeldia]

This is the Mobil 2000:

http://www.mobil.com/Australia-English/Lubes/PDS/glxxenpvlmomobil_super_2000_x2.pdf

As far as I can see, it meets ACEA A3/B3, so it Exceeds the needs of my engine in my temp range, right? following the user manual of my year (2001), from -10 to +50, it's ok to use 10w40...

[LowRanger]

It isn't a dedicated diesel oil.But will work fine in a small diesel.And in the temp. range that you will be driving in.Change it regularly,and all should be ok.

Wayne

[Basil135]

I use Shell Helix Ultra in the engine, and Nulon Full Synthetic everywhere else.

My spanner spinner now runs his own business after doing 20+ years as a mechanic with the stealer. I tend to believe him, possibly more than I should.

Is it overkill? Probably... :cool:

[rick130]

For day to day use:- Penrite SP Diesel is fine for most light commercial Diesel applications.

For use in an expedition vehicle,that was going to be used in hot/cold harsh conditions,or conditions where the vehicle was under a lot of load or carrying a lot of weight for extended periods,where the engine temps were going to be high.Or in something like an OBC vehicle,I would recommend a Polyol ester based oil.And yes,oils ain't oils.There are reasons that only 3 brands of oil are recommended for use in Jet engines,because they are the only oils that will withstand the constant heat generated!!!! Would you trust an oil advertised by a cricketer,or a radio announcer???

Wayne


Sorry Wayne but I respectfully disagree.

POE's are overkill these days in most applications not involving gas turbines, hell, even PAO's can be overkill.

What sort of temps is anyone going to see in an engine that make POE's a necessity ?
If anyone is seeing oil temps above 120*C, install a bigger oil cooler, because regardless of how well the oil tolerates excessive temps, the oil will be too thin and the clearances and therefore bearings won't cope.
Speaking from experience there, and that's just with an ester/PAO oil. ;)

Bearing metal will be melted out before you reach the limit of a POE, PAO or di-ester and yes, i've seen that (at least with a di-ester based oil)
Blue rods, no bearing metal left, holes in pistons from detonation, cracked webs in the block but everything still went up and down and round and round......
Doesn't really prove anything.......

A balanced oil, one with a good additive package is far more important than the base oils used.
I'd take a good mineral oil with a very robust additive package over a POE oil that was relying on it's base for protection.
In fact, the most robust car/truck oil that I know of doesn't use a POE base at all, it's HOBS based. Still an ester, but vegetable based, not a syn POE.

Today's Group III based 'synthetics' are more than enough for a race application, let alone any over the road or off road application.
Shell use a mix of GIII/PAO/ester in their F1 brews.
I'd have no hesitation in using a GIII/PAO/ester blend, hell, a good GII mineral blend works fine for any 'expedition' application.

Sounds like someone's been sucked in by good old advertising, and yes, i use various Redline oils/grease too, and Motul oils, and I used NEO in race engines and transaxles nearly twenty years ago.
I was once an ester only spruiker, but then I learned that the additive package was far more important than the base oils.
I'm not knocking the boutique blends, I've used them a lot over the last twenty years, but stating that only POE bases should only be used for maximum protection is stretching things a touch too far IMO.

BTW, Russian jet engines use PAO's ;)

[carlosbeldia]

Ok, thanks. How often must I change the oil and filters? our diesel is kind of bad (around 1000 ppm of sulphur). My car is used in rough conditions, all kind of terrain, mostly dusty conditions and 'stop and go' traffic. Do you think every 12.000 kms is ok for the change? or have I to cut this distance off?

[rick130]

Carlos, with that level of suplhur and without oil testing it would be anyone's guess.
The centrifuge filter on the TD5 is a brilliant bit of gear, but 1000ppm is a lot of soot going into the oil.
At a wild arse guess I wouldn't exceed 10,000km, (Land Rover's original recommendation was not to exceed 10,000km if sulphur levels exceeded 1%) and probably limit it to 8,000km just to be safe, but the centrifuge filter may be able to keep the bulk of the soot out of the oil.

The only way to know for sure how far you can go is to use oil testing with proper interpretation.
If you want to go that path I can PM the name of a very good analyst in the US.

[LowRanger]

With a mineral oil or semi syth. oil,I would be replacing the engine oil every 5,000km

[cols110]

Hi Carlos, the Castrol 5W-40 you were running is a totally different brew to the 0W-40 oil we have here, yours is a North American market formula with different specs.
A 10W-40 will be fine. Any links to that oil at all ?
You want it to at least have an API CF or ACEA B3 diesel rating, but as I've often stated, I prefer CI-4 to CJ-4 and ACEA E4 to 7 diesel oil specs in diesels, unless a manufacturer has a specific specification they call for.

Now this will cause a $#!* fight.

Regarding different viscosities, if it never gets below 10*C you can easily use a 15W-40 heavy duty diesel oil if it has a relatively high viscosity index.
Most all 15W-40's are thinner at 10*C than any 5W-40 is going to be at -10*C, and -10* isn't that cold for a 5W oil.
The TD5 doesn't use hydraulically activated injectors so it isn't that viscosity sensitive anyway, and I know of certain 15W-40 oils that are thinner at around 0*C than some 5 and 10W-40's.

The 'W' ratings refer to an oils pumping pressure at certain temperatures well below 0*, they often aren't a good indicator at how an oil behaves from around 0* and above.
While lubricating oils behave in a Newtonian fashion, (ie, the warmer they become, the thinner they become) the viscosity changes with temperature aren't always in a linear fashion either.


OK, sorry to bring up another oil question, but I am trying to find a decent oil for my TD5 here in Dubai. Previously I had been running 10w40 Mobil 1 oil for petrol engines, it also lists it as OK for use in diesel engines. The oil maybe a different spec to what is available in Australia.

There is a limited range of specific diesel oils available here, most people just stock straight 50w oils. Our temp here never gets below 15c, so low temp use is never a problem. So far the best dedicated diesel oil I can find here is Volvo VDS-3 15w40. http://www.volvo.com/nr/rdonlyres/917df087-1f6f-4a49-8351-22110a11fc65/0/pocketguide_lubricants_21b1002294_200803.pdf

It is a SAE 15W-40 VDS-3, ECEA E7, API CI-4 spec oil.

We have high sulpher diesel oil here so I run reduced interval oil changes.

The way I see it Volvo won't recommend a crap oil for the trucks so it must be a decent spec. So it is probably the best way to go.

My question here is should I run this Volvo 15w40 oil or a high performance 10w40 petrol oil which is readily available.

[CraigE]

Even in your temps I think 15W may be a bit heavy. I would be looking for a 10w I think. Currently I am in Newman which is a hot area and still running 5W with no issues.

[rick130]

OK, sorry to bring up another oil question, but I am trying to find a decent oil for my TD5 here in Dubai. Previously I had been running 10w40 Mobil 1 oil for petrol engines, it also lists it as OK for use in diesel engines. The oil maybe a different spec to what is available in Australia.

There is a limited range of specific diesel oils available here, most people just stock straight 50w oils. Our temp here never gets below 15c, so low temp use is never a problem. So far the best dedicated diesel oil I can find here is Volvo VDS-3 15w40. http://www.volvo.com/nr/rdonlyres/917df087-1f6f-4a49-8351-22110a11fc65/0/pocketguide_lubricants_21b1002294_200803.pdf

It is a SAE 15W-40 VDS-3, ECEA E7, API CI-4 spec oil.

We have high sulpher diesel oil here so I run reduced interval oil changes.

The way I see it Volvo won't recommend a crap oil for the trucks so it must be a decent spec. So it is probably the best way to go.

My question here is should I run this Volvo 15w40 oil or a high performance 10w40 petrol oil which is readily available.

You'll be fine but I'd like to see some Visc @40 & 100*C and/or it's VI just to see what sort of viscosity you'll have at start up, but at guess it'll be no worse than a 0/5W-40@0*C.
I did some numbers on here a few years back and Redline's 15W-40 (ok, its a POE syn diesel oil) was thinner at 0* than a Shell 10W-40 and IIRC roughly the same as Penrite's then 5W-40.

A CI-4 diesel oil can cope with the high sulphur fuel better than a petrol biased CF oil with better protection. (the CI-4 spec was developed about eight or so years back while the US still used 500PPM sulphur and the CF spec was superseded something like twenty years ago)

Any idea who's blending Volvo's oils for your market ?

What's the sulphur level there Col ?

[Blknight.aus]

With a mineral oil or semi syth. oil,I would be replacing the engine oil every 5,000km

nahh if your using a really good oil as the td5 has a centrifuge filter you can goto at least 10K Km and I used to service at the 15K Km mark. the oil testing that I did still had life in it at the 15K Km mark That was based on the nulon synthetic.

[Scott]

I believe I was originally told Castrol syntrans and syntrax oil for the transfer and gearbox, the order I am not sure on. Don't have my manual here with me. They are very expensive.
I change all gearbox and diff oils annually or 20,000km. Also change the coolant at the same time, use red coolant.
I use caltex fully synthetic in the engine and change it every 10,000km and both engine oil filters at the same time.

Any good gear oil should be fine in the diffs.

[rick130]

nahh if your using a really good oil as the td5 has a centrifuge filter you can goto at least 10K Km and I used to service at the 15K Km mark. the oil testing that I did still had life in it at the 15K Km mark That was based on the nulon synthetic.

Dave, I think that 5,000km advice was in response to Carlos' asking about a distance re the dirty 1000PPM sulphur fuel he has to use in Sth America. ;)

Oh, and it was all over six months ago too. :D

[Blknight.aus]

Hmm, maybe so....

ID like to reckon that with the good filtration and good initial oil that it'd last more than 5K km.

[Naks]

So far the best dedicated diesel oil I can find here is Volvo VDS-3 15w40. http://www.volvo.com/nr/rdonlyres/917df087-1f6f-4a49-8351-22110a11fc65/0/pocketguide_lubricants_21b1002294_200803.pdf

It is a SAE 15W-40 VDS-3, ECEA E7, API CI-4 spec oil.




The specs are spot on. However, with your higher ambient temps in Dubai, you should try and get a CI-4 in the w50 range, if that's possible.

[CraigE]

Ok, thanks. How often must I change the oil and filters? our diesel is kind of bad (around 1000 ppm of sulphur). My car is used in rough conditions, all kind of terrain, mostly dusty conditions and 'stop and go' traffic. Do you think every 12.000 kms is ok for the change? or have I to cut this distance off?

Carlos,
Regardless of running conditions I change my oil every 5000kms and filters every 10000kms as preventative maintenance and I use synthetic oil. Would be even more applicable if you are running semi synthetic or mineral based oils. It also depends on your budget.

[John W]

I have stuck with Castrol 5w30, change it every 10 000km. I change the centrifugal filter every 20 000 and the main filter every 60 000km. I guess I do not trust the oil to go the full 20 000 service interval. (not very scientific just pragmatic) The first time I changed the centrifugal filter at 10 000 I cut the old one open for a look inside. Seemed to me that there was not a lot of build up and expect that it would do a lot more than 20 000km. So I just go along with the standard service intervals for the filters.

[cols110]

You'll be fine but I'd like to see some Visc @40 & 100*C and/or it's VI just to see what sort of viscosity you'll have at start up, but at guess it'll be no worse than a 0/5W-40@0*C.
I did some numbers on here a few years back and Redline's 15W-40 (ok, its a POE syn diesel oil) was thinner at 0* than a Shell 10W-40 and IIRC roughly the same as Penrite's then 5W-40.

A CI-4 diesel oil can cope with the high sulphur fuel better than a petrol biased CF oil with better protection. (the CI-4 spec was developed about eight or so years back while the US still used 500PPM sulphur and the CF spec was superseded something like twenty years ago)

Any idea who's blending Volvo's oils for your market ?

What's the sulphur level there Col ?


Thanks mate, I'm not exactly sure what the sulphur content is but it is >500ppm, it was a lot worse but they are slowly bringing the content down.

As for the oil, I don't know much about it, the salesmen at 2 different places are adament it is a full synthetic, but I have my doubts as the price is only around $80 for 20lt. They order and receive the oil from the main Mobil supplier, so I guess the oil is blended by Mobil. There is very little info regarding the oil on the container or on the net to say if it is a mineral, semi or full synthetic.

I have sent off a couple of emails to the Shell and Mobil head offices here locally but yet to get a reply to see if they can supply a 10w40 diesel synthetic but somehow doubt I will get a reply. Castrol were up front and said they do not supply diesel oils here.

If I can be sure it is a synthetic I will probably use it as at the price of it I will happily change the oil every 10K.

[cols110]

G'day all, thanks for the thoughts on the Volvo VDS3 15w40 oil, after a bit more research and a trip to a Volvo truck workshop where I spoke to the mechanics, who all assured me it was a full synthetic and they had never seen any problems regarding the oil. It is a bit heavier weight than I wanted but I am stuck for choice out here so for better or worse it is what I am now using. With our temps out here I doubt it will be an issue especially when summer comes along as our night time temps never drop under 35 deg and day time is high 40s from May to September.

Mobil did have stock of synthetic 5w40 Delvac which would have been perfect, but could only supply it in 208lts, they were not interested in importing 20lts unless I could place an order large enough be worth their while.

Shell never responded and Castrol said they do not import any diesel oils into the Middle East.

[carlosbeldia]

Now I'm working in a heavy duty cars workshop, so I have a really wide spread of 15w40 choices at a really good price. Do you think I can use them? they are all mineral oils. Here are some of the E7 oils. If have to, which one you'd use?

http://www.dooilco.com/pdf/Motor%20Oils/Chevron%20Delo%20400/Delo%20400%2015w-40.pdf

http://www.petrobras.com.ar/Petrobras/Internet_Institucional/Espanol/Productos/Lubricantes/Agro/Documentos/TOP_Turbo.pdf

Teh other one is the Shell Rimula R4, an ACEA E-5:

http://apps-shellmexico.com/productos/pdf/Shell%20Rimula_R4_Spanish__CI-4_.pdf

I know 15w is far away from Land Rover specs, but do you think it'd be ok if I use this specs for next 10.000 km? (I had no job an a kid, this work seems to get me even in money in 4 months, when I can go back to Mobil 1)

[carlosbeldia]

I forgot, our diesel has now 500 ppm limit....

[rick130]

I'd use the Delo 400, I'm unfamiliar with the Petrobras oil and I can't open the PDF.
The Shell Rimula you've listed isn't as high a spec oil, the ACEA 5 sequence was removed a few years back.
The ACEA 7 sequence has a specific test for soot induced wear which is good (a consequence of EGR systems)

Delo 400LE is a semi-syn base anyway, Chevron/Texaco/Caltex use a unique process to refine the Group II+ base oil, so it's virtually a Group III (hydrocracked) oil.