P38 Starting Problems

[PeterAllen]

Wife just called complaining that she can't start the car. All lights are on in the dash but when the ignition key is turned there is just a click. My first reaction is the starter motor has given up ( as I had the same problem in my classic two weeks ago) however, with the P38's advanced electronic circuitry is there other areas that I should be checking as well?

[Scouse]

Tried Neutral instead of Park?

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Scott,
She hasn't tried and has left it to me to check when I get home. In the event it starts in Neutral ,whats the deal with that?

[WasabiPimpNinja]

Does sound like the starter motor to me. Used to happen to my old VK Commo and currently happens to my mates GQ Patrol. It's generally not the motor itself but the starter solenoid. The trick we've found is a slight adjustment with a knockometer (Hit the bejesus out of it with something heavy) and it generally pops into life. Haven't looked where the starter is on the P38, no doubt somewhere inaccessible.

You dont have an aftermarket immobiliser or something that could have shagged out?

Alternatively, could be something arcing out stopping the starter from getting electrickery. Try and start it in the dark and look for sparks.

Hope this helps.

Keels.

[PhilipA]

C ould be just dirty battery terminals or earths. That is the most likely.
Regards Philip A

[DT-P38]

DO solenoids and batteries get cranky during colder weather?

[parasnoop67]

Batteries especially can get cranky in cold weather.

PS67

[PaulP38a]

take two reboots and call me in the morning :p

Similar thing happened to me recently... disconnect the battery for a minute so the ECU's get reset. Worked for me.

Cheers, Paul.

[PeterAllen]

Checked last night and battery had only 10.6 volts. Put it on charger overnight and now its reading 13volts. Of course in the classic you just throw the battery back in and away you go.....but not this darling. Have now key code access on the dash and engine immobilised. Checked the hand book found the code and followed the instructions which don't seem to work. Turn to lock with key 4 times then unlock times code,lock times code,unlock times code, and lock times code...unlock and away you go....or in my case don't go. Is my comprehension that bad? Is there a hidden mystery box I haven't ticked or is this yet another attempt for the RR to conserve fuel and lower my carbon footprint

[PeterAllen]

I read on another LR forum that all things need to be in "closed" position when doing the key code access thingy. No wonder I was having difficulty with the bonnet up. It would have been nice of them to mention that in the manual.
I assume from this exercise that every time I disconnect the battery to do something on the car that I am going to go thru this key code process.....bloody silly idea.

[Scouse]

Normally you just need to synchronise the remotes to the car after a battery disconnect.

[PeterAllen]

Thanks Scouse ,What does the synchronisation process involve?

[Rupert Prior]

if you are in the Sydney area i can come out and get it going.
call me on 0421 509083
regards Rupert

[adm333]

Thanks Scouse ,What does the synchronisation process involve?

Quite simply, locking and unlocking the drivers door manually with the key and pressing the remote buttton a few times.

You definitely should not need to use the EKA sequence just because you disconnected the battery.

[PeterAllen]

Thanks for the offers guys but I have talked my better half through the process and has now started the old girl back up again......this time with the bonnet shut. Still showing some issue about sunroof and windows but all works and all windows and sunroof open and close without a problem so it may be just a resync that hasn't happen yet. Anyway initial starting problem solved....drained battery.
Thanks all (until next week when something else happens).

[Scouse]

The windows & sunroof just need opening & closing (all the way open & closed) to 'set' their positions.