2000 Model 130 Dual Cab Question

[TerryO]

Hi everyone,

I know I have never visited over here on the dark side before but hopefully you Defender type people will go easy on me. ;)

I'm going to look this week at a 2000 model 130 Dual cab with about 170k on the clock. It has had a couple of owners and has books and service records etc with it so that part sounds reasonably good.

What I'm asking is there anything anything in particular that I should be looking at? I own a couple of V8 Disco's as some of you would know but have never had a Landy diesel or a Defender for that matter so I thought I'd ask here what to check and does this year model have any weaknesses that I should be aware of?

Are 2000 model TD5's ok? Are these the early models with the plastic dowels in the head that I have read about as being a concern?

By the way I'm looking at using it a bit as a work vehicle but really it is for bush trips with a slide on camper.

Thanks in advance for any advice.

cheers,
Terry

[TerryO]

So no one can offer any advice if a Dual Cab 130 of this vintage and k's should be a good thing or not or waht to look out for?

cheers,
Terry

[spudboy]

Oh well - I'll have a go, even though mine is a bit later than the one you are looking at.

I have a 2002 TD5, but you'll possibly have to look out for issues with:
- Oil pump bolt (missing loctite from factory. Pretty rare)
- Oil in loom (easy fix and not expensive)
- Fuel reg on rear of engine leaking ($300-odd to fix)
- Some chronically overloaded and flogged vehicles have hairline chassis cracks.

They are pretty bulletproof engines so long as you don't overheat them.

HTH
and btw it's dual and not duel :D

[spudboy]

...Are these the early models with the plastic dowels in the head that I have read about as being a concern?

...Terry

The dowels being plastic is not a problem until the head wants to move. If the bolts are good and you haven';t overheated, then should be a non-issue.

[TerryO]

Thank you Spudboy for the info.

Not having had anything to do with Defenders previously I admit I don't know much about them and or if there are better model years or not or certain weaknesses that should be looking out for.

Hopefully that is the kind of info I can find out from here.

cheers,
Terry

[Bundalene]

Have a close look at the firewall for signs of rust, also along the rear chassis outriggers.

When driving to say 90kms per hr and backing off, listen for a gearbox whine.

Oil leaks around the junction of the gearbox and transfer, around the power steering box and signs of oil under the ECU, under the drivers seat, (I know this sounds silly but I have seen a TD5 Defender with oil 5 mm deep here and it needed a wiring harness transplant.

Fuel leak around the fuel pressure requlator at the firewall end of the engine -right side.

Just a few which come to mind

Erich

[easo]

I have an 2003. My dramas to date are,
Clutch master cylinders. X3
Head light switchs X3, they just melt look into head ligh wiring upgrade from Drivesafe.
Head light relay, burnt out.
Oil in the harness.

The rest of my dramas have been diff locker or mud induced. ;)

Easo

[spudboy]

Hey Easo - are you running uprated bulbs to cause all that burning out of the switch?

[The ho har's]

2003 also
1x clutch master cylinder
1x rear half shaft....but that could have been caused by the weight of the camper that wasn't on at the time;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[ashman]

Hi Terry
I have own my 2000 130 dual cab now for 2 1/2 years now, had oil in the harness when I got it just up graded the harness about $150 and 3 broken manifold studs, exchanged manifold and replaced studs under $200 and have had no other problems with it, very happy with it so far, jusk keep up with the oil changes and maintenance and you will be happy with it, I got mine with only 103,000ks on it have done over 40,000 sence owning it, its very comfortable on long trips and cruises very well on the road, my wife is ownly 5' tall and she has no problems with driving it and she drives it most of the time (family car) she loves it and we owned 2 Toyotas before the Land Rover, ( Land Cruiser and a Hilux dual cab) lot more room in the back of the Land Rover for the kids...

Hope this helps

Ashley

[TerryO]

While not wanting to offend anyone with a new Defender it would seem from reading plenty of the threads on the new Puma's that the older TD5 Fenders have less issues then the new ones.

Or am I getting the wrong end of the stick?

cheers,
Terry

[Larry]

While not wanting to offend anyone with a new Defender it would seem from reading plenty of the threads on the new Puma's that the older TD5 Fenders have less issues then the new ones.

Or am I getting the wrong end of the stick?

cheers,
Terry

I think it's just that the Td5s have had most of their problems fixed by now, but the Puma is still going through the process of getting rid of the bugs.:(

[spudboy]

If you could go back in time, to when the TD5 was introduced, it was probably a similar scenario with people comparing it to the 'good old' TDi300 model. Although, actually the TDi300 WAS an excellent engine....

Anyway, new model. New problems. The worry is, the warranty on the early release ones is nearing the end.

I've got a 2007 Puma, and am not so happy that I've only got 3 months of warranty left....

[easo]

Hey Easo - are you running uprated bulbs to cause all that burning out of the switch?

Just standard globs. Do a search, others have had the same drama with headlight switchs melting.

Easo

[spudboy]

OK - no worries. Looks like I better budget for some in the future then (or get a proper relay setup done, like DriveSafe's).

[aew849]

TerryO,

My Deefer is a 2004 TD5, bought 2nd hand through wholesaler...vehicle had spent 4 yrs and 60k in the goldfields and 2 yrs and 45k later, am still finding red dust!! From Perth have done Karratha and back, goldfields and back, plus Perth-Sydney-Melbourne-Perth late last year.

It is a long truck which could do with double the power, although Tombie2 services provided a stage 1 chip and did wonders. I have added a snorkel, took out the expansion joint just below the exhaust manifold, removed the EGR valve from the intake and the rear muffler. All in all it performs better and sounds like a trooper. And bigger tyres (mud terrains) which gave longer legs on the highway.

Problems...well the ignition switch started to fall apart, meaning the car would shutdown on decent bumps, fixed by recrimping the rear of the unit. I replaced an indicator stalk (2nd hand Linn Rover). And a headlight thanks to a wretched stone. I did have an oily substance in the radiator expansion tank which was nearly diagnosed as a leaky oil cooler...but a decent flush has cured that. Oh yes...the clutch. Master cylinder leaked...swapped out it and slave for good measure. New master leaked. Replacement master leaked. The next one is good so far. Rear diff seal started weeping at 95k, easy fix.

But aside from the usual gripes about door gaps, lousy ergonomics and seats, hot vinyl and traditional British engineering efforts, the LR experience has been a blast......there's a new one on the way!!!

aew849

[easo]

OK - no worries. Looks like I better budget for some in the future then (or get a proper relay setup done, like DriveSafe's).

He dos a good kit and easy to install. I think it was about $150ish for the head light and driving light kit.

I'll knock up some photos if you like.

Easo

[alanw]

Hello Terry,

I have a 2004 td5 130DC tray back defender - abt 180K so far. Roads are not so good and often well loaded and towing heavy trailers.

Repairs so far brake and clutch master cylinders, heavier rear axles and flanges, starter motor solenoid contact kit, EGR valve out. Currently an oil leak between transfer and gear box - tolerating for now. And have just replaced radiator and intercooler hoses (maintainance not failure).

Have also added an engine temperature alarm.

Suggest you check the oil pump bolt - mine was not tight and had no loctite from factory. Not difficult to do but horrendously expensive if it lets go. (got mine in time)

Only major repair was a broken chassis. Quite easy to fix - and in the process found the steel on one side of the chassis was much thinner than the other. Also not helped by a factoryweld straight across the top of the chassis at the main stress point. Would suggest if you are looking at long loads such as a camper then might be worth reinforcing the chassis underneath the rear of the cab.

Overall repair costs so far are less than any previous vehicle for this distance and the defender has done harder work.

hope the comments are useful

alan

[TerryO]

Thanks everyone so far for the comments and advice, it all sounds pretty good to know. Sorry I've taken so long to get back to this thread but I've been a bit busy with work this last week.

Another question, did I read some where that the Defender running gear like diffs axles etc is interchangable with post 94 D1 running gear. Is this right?

My good old 3.9 D1 has a Maxi locker and axles in the rear and a ARB locker in the front. Plus it has Eastern Wheel Works wheels fitted, would all or any of this gear fit in a TD5 Defender / 130?

Also is it interchangeable with a Puma or late model 130?

cheers,
Terry

[Jeff]

Terry,

The wheels on all Defenders are able to interchange with D1, Range Rover Classic and some late Series wheels. Watch the offsets as Defenders have h-u-u-u-ge turning circles, especially 130s.

The axles may be interchangeable as whole assemblies, but there are lots of differences, mostly as the D1 has a Rover rear diff, the pre 03 Defender has a Salisbury and the post 03 Defender has a P38 based diff.

When looking at any second hand Land Rover look carefully at the service history. If you think the TD5 has less issues than the Puma you mustn't read too much of the Discovery 2 forum, it seems full of them. Perhaps I notice them more after my big end problems.

Jeff

:rocket:

[TerryO]

Hey Jeff,

I have read plenty of threads on the D2 forum about TD5's and their reliability etc. I also have read quite a number about Puma's on here. The way I see it is Puma's are only several years old and TD5's are up to 11 years old, one would expect problems from engines that are now up to that old.
I am surprized though about how many issues some Puma owners are facing in such a short time.

Still this hasn't put me off looking at getting either a decent TD5 130 or a late model 2.4 130 if they turn out to be a much better bit of gear and end up suiting my needs.

So I take it that the none of the running gear from a D1 is interchangeable with a Puma apart from maybe the wheels?

cheers,
Terry