Door striker plate alignment

[windsock]

I have just replaced the drivers door latch assembly and striker plate on an early 110 with new OEM stuff. This is the door latch assembly on a sliding window version of the 110 doors.

Any ideas on getting the correct location of the striker plate without going through all the trails and errors?

[windsock]

Got this sorted this morning after pondering it for a few hours.

Placed the new striker plate at the top outermost position of its range of movement. Tightended the bolts to hold it in position.
Loosened the hinge bolts on the firewall side of the hinges.
Close the door letting the striker plate position the door which moves on the loosened hinge bolts.
Tightened the hinge bolts to secure the door in this position.
Opened the door and adjusted the striker plate downwards just enough such that the new door latch guide blocks no longer struck the top or the bottom of striker plate.
Tested the amount of movement inwards of the door and adjusted the striker plate inwards as required.
Tightened everything.
Use as required quietly, easily and securely. :D
Door now latches securely with a minimum of effort. Nice. A road test shows ear-jarring door latch rattle has gone with the new gear.

[mox]

I have done a fiddly rebuild job in workshop on my driver's side door lock, which is obviously intended to be a throwaway item.

Probably much more viable is a couple of ways striker plates can be rebuilt, improving on the originals. To make them less likely to move, get some 8mm countersunk head bolts to replace the 6mm ones and enlarge the holes and countersinkings in the striker plates so they fit properly.

Also rattling and squeaking of doors is contributed to by the part of the striker the lock arm contacts, ie a very short piece of 10 mm OD tubular plastic over an 8 mm centre. The plastic seems to quickly wear through quickly. I have cut all this out and welded in pieces cit from 10mm bolts.

[windsock]

Cheers for the reply mox, however, when I looked at rebuilding my own door latch and striker I noted a lot of wear and tear from 26 years of opening and shutting and rattling. My one is the early 1984 110 anti-burst latch and as such the striker plate does not have the plastic 'buffer' on it and is metal on metal contact all the way.

There was wear and tear on all contact points on both latch and striker. All moving parts inside the latch had signs of wear. Not bad really for what was a farm truck for 22 years from new with all the opening and shutting for gates etc.

In the two and a half years i have owned this truck I have replaced many bits I considered original and am more than pleased with the way it has all held up over time. New bits I have replaced will I hope last me till the end of oil as we know it - then the wood gas starts... :twisted: