Log in

View Full Version : Raising Defender seats



Ranga
9th July 2010, 08:47 AM
Being a bit of a shortarse, I'm wanting to raise my Defender front seats a bit. I've installed new foam, which has helped a bit, but not enough.

There's aftermarket seat runners around, but these are aimed more at being able to move the seat back further, which is of no use to me at all (obviously).

Anyone able to suggest options for lifting the seats abit? Is it possible to just get some strong boxing and put this under the existing seat rails?

LowRanger
9th July 2010, 10:36 AM
When I bought my 94 Defender,the previous owner had fitted a small stainless block under each corner,drilled through the centre and used a longer high tensile bolt to mount it to the floor.

incisor
9th July 2010, 12:01 PM
mulgo does some seat rails from memory...

dont know if they lift you like the mud rails do tho...

mike_ie
9th July 2010, 12:11 PM
The seat rails don't just shift the seats back, they also raise the seats by about 20mm. The combination of both increases legroom by a surprising amount. They are easy to make - a section of appropriately sized box section, some drilling of holes, and maybe longer seat bolts if you want to simply raise the seats. If you want to also shift them back then you will have to weld new seat mounts to the box steel, but again,it's not difficult if you have the tools.

If you couldn't be bothered, then as incisor pointed out, Mulgo does a decent looking set for $80. (http://www.mulgo.com.au/p9_Mulgo-Seat-Extension.html)

Bigbjorn
9th July 2010, 12:31 PM
The seat rails don't just shift the seats back, they also raise the seats by about 20mm. The combination of both increases legroom by a surprising amount. They are easy to make - a section of appropriately sized box section, some drilling of holes, and maybe longer seat bolts if you want to simply raise the seats. If you want to also shift them back then you will have to weld new seat mounts to the box steel, but again,it's not difficult if you have the tools.

If you couldn't be bothered, then as incisor pointed out, Mulgo does a decent looking set for $80. (http://www.mulgo.com.au/p9_Mulgo-Seat-Extension.html)

You can easy make some yourself. Go down the scrap dealers and get sufficient 50mm x 25mm rectangular tubing. Drill as appropriate and use longer screws.

jerryd
9th July 2010, 06:25 PM
I made a complete panel out of 16mm MDF, cut new lids etc and covered in carpet. This was mainly for silencing the "Isuzu" :D but has obviously raised the driving position too. I prefer this now as I can see each corner better (I'm a shorty too)

It did make it a bit quieter and also stopped the rattles from the aluminium lids, it's also easier to keep clean ;) I'm now making a new cubby box with drink holders, cd storage and a pull out drawer,fingers crossed...........I'm just about to try and trim it :)

There are some pics in the Isuzu section

mike_ie
9th July 2010, 06:50 PM
You can easy make some yourself. Go down the scrap dealers and get sufficient 50mm x 25mm rectangular tubing. Drill as appropriate and use longer screws.


Take a look at the MUDSTUFF ones available from the UK if you want to make a set...

MUDSTUFF.CO.UK, MUD Seat Rails, Land Rover Defender Solutions: West Yorkshire (http://www.mudstuff.co.uk/MUD_Seat_Rails.shtml)

VladTepes
3rd August 2010, 01:25 PM
Ranga did you take pics of what you did ? If so a little "mini project" in the projects and tutorials section might not go astray. and mights save people some $

miky
3rd August 2010, 11:46 PM
Using the mudstuff link above and looking at the fitting instruction photos I went and got some 30mm square tubing (size depends on what lift you want) and easily made some. I needed longer screws as well of course. So... look at the photos and it is easy to do.
Seat now goes back further and it is higher - which is what I was really aiming for.

lardy
4th August 2010, 04:33 PM
I made a complete panel out of 16mm MDF, cut new lids etc and covered in carpet. This was mainly for silencing the "Isuzu" :D but has obviously raised the driving position too. I prefer this now as I can see each corner better (I'm a shorty too)

It did make it a bit quieter and also stopped the rattles from the aluminium lids, it's also easier to keep clean ;) I'm now making a new cubby box with drink holders, cd storage and a pull out drawer,fingers crossed...........I'm just about to try and trim it :)

There are some pics in the Isuzu section

how does MDF handle extreme braking with your weight on it ?

trailcutter
4th August 2010, 04:41 PM
ranga ,just fitted a set of mulgo rails ,,,,, 20ml lift as quoted,,,,and noticed ,factory had spacers/washers 3/crnr as std in mine ,,,,,,, the rails are a good option,,,,,,and when you grow up ,you can slidem back!

Ranga
4th August 2010, 04:58 PM
I'd post a tutorial, but it would be a paragraph long! All I did was got some lengths of 40mm box steel, and cut them to length, drilled holes to match the seat rail holes, and got longer bolts. I painted in in satin black killrust paint, put plastic end caps on, and it was all done. Cost bugger all, looks great, allows the seat to move back, and most importantly, lifted me up enough to see properly.

I'll try and post a photo tomorrow, but basically they look very similar to the Mudstuff rails.

Allan
4th August 2010, 06:40 PM
ranga ,just fitted a set of mulgo rails ,,,,, 20ml lift as quoted,,,,and noticed ,factory had spacers/washers 3/crnr as std in mine ,,,,,,, the rails are a good option,,,,,,and when you grow up ,you can slidem back!

The only problem I find with the mulgo rails is when compared to mud rails, the forward movement is restricted. I have muds in the Puma and mulgo in the TD5, the wife has trouble in the TD5 reaching the controls, the Puma is all good.

Allan

Mulgo
22nd August 2010, 10:44 PM
The only problem I find with the mulgo rails is when compared to mud rails, the forward movement is restricted. I have muds in the Puma and mulgo in the TD5, the wife has trouble in the TD5 reaching the controls, the Puma is all good.

Allan


If you put the front bolt (which holds the seat to the extension bar) top down (nut between the extension bar and the under seat box) then there is enough clearance for the seat to move further to the front.

Cheers,
Daniel

landoman
8th February 2018, 01:57 PM
I'd post a tutorial, but it would be a paragraph long! All I did was got some lengths of 40mm box steel, and cut them to length, drilled holes to match the seat rail holes, and got longer bolts. I painted in in satin black killrust paint, put plastic end caps on, and it was all done. Cost bugger all, looks great, allows the seat to move back, and most importantly, lifted me up enough to see properly.

I'll try and post a photo tomorrow, but basically they look very similar to the Mudstuff rails.


Thinking of putting a small lift in my 110 seats by putting in piece of box steel ( size TBD)
... and longer bolts as above

however I notice that the seats are held in by 3 removable bolts ...AND WHAT LOOKS LIKE ONE FIXED BOLT THAT TAKES A NUT ..this does not look easy to access to change to a longer
one ....ie the 3 bolts are no problem ....they can easily be taken out and replaced with longer ones
....but the fixed bolt looks difficult to get at to change ...there appears no access from inside the underseat boxes

anyone done this and how did you do it ?
many thanks

Marty90
8th February 2018, 03:55 PM
I think its a stud. Put a couple of nuts on it and give it a try

landoman
8th February 2018, 07:29 PM
I think its a stud. Put a couple of nuts on it and give it a try

Yes it could be a fixed stud .....it has a nut in it to hold in the seat ....but not sure it’s long enough to take the extension box steel and seat .......and not sure I would want only 3 bolts holding the seat in