View Full Version : Gear selector pattern
Pedro_The_Swift
10th July 2010, 03:42 AM
First time poster,
please be gentle---
Whats the go with the 2000 model H pattern gear selector?
I gather just by console design the (Disco)Hi/Lo range shifter cant work.
CDL? Hi/Lo selector is?
I quite like this one,
2000 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER HSE P38A Cars For Sale in NSW - CarPoint Australia (http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8863939&ref=RecentItem&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Price_Decimal|1|| pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__N=1216%201247%201282%204294965541%204294965478%2 0412&__Nne=15)
any obvious concerns?
Have been reading up(and consulting with a Supa P38a expert) on hevacs,
how do I tell if its (they, 5!!!) been replaced?
so many questions,,,:D
adm333
10th July 2010, 07:50 AM
It's mostly electronic, so the H pattern is symbolic.
You move from Hi to Lo at Neutral whilst stationary.
An electric motor changes the transfer case and tells you when its done.
There is no CDL, it is a viscous coupling for "automated" CDL when it senses slip between front and rear output shaft speed.
Great in theory but often does not meet expectations
Dave
p38arover
10th July 2010, 07:56 AM
First time poster,
please be gentle---
Whats the go with the 2000 model H pattern gear selector?
I gather just by console design the (Disco)Hi/Lo range shifter cant work.
CDL? Hi/Lo selector is?
I quite like this one,
2000 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER HSE P38A Cars For Sale in NSW - CarPoint Australia (http://www.carpoint.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8863939&ref=RecentItem&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_Price_Decimal|1|| pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__N=1216%201247%201282%204294965541%204294965478%2 0412&__Nne=15)
any obvious concerns?
Have been reading up(and consulting with a Supa P38a expert) on hevacs,
how do I tell if its (they, 5!!!) been replaced?
so many questions,,,:D
The H-pattern selector is quite cunning and probably the best I've seen or used.
The driver's side is the standard PRNDL pattern (note I said driver's side - not LHS or RHS - that applies for LHD or RHD). When you want low range, you move the gear lever to neutral, then slide it over the pax side.
This operates an electric motor in the transfer case which selects low range. The Message Centre in the instrument binnacle will provide prompt text messages.
Once in low range, the gearbox operation changes (electronic controls), e.g., the Sport button becomes a gear hold button.
There is no CDL as the car has a viscous coupling.
You mention five flap motors, I assume you mena the two temperature control blend flap servos, the distribution flap servo, and the two recirculation flaps motors.
Of these, three servo motors are of concern - actually, only two. The blend flap servo motors which get the most work work - they are moving a lot of the time to conrol cthe in car temps.
The distribution flap servo only operates when air flow is being directed to another location, e.g., floor, screen, etc.
All three come as a harness.
The other two aren't servo motors (they don't have feedback to the ECU to adjust their position). They are the hardest to replace I'm told - I've never done one.
How can you tell if they have been replaced? Not easily. Look for any service records. We've written up instructions on how to replace them at Blend Motor Diagnosis and Replacement (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/blendmotor.html)
Pedro_The_Swift
10th July 2010, 10:37 AM
It's mostly electronic, so the H pattern is symbolic.
You move from Hi to Lo at Neutral whilst stationary.
An electric motor changes the transfer case and tells you when its done.
There is no CDL, it is a viscous coupling for "automated" CDL when it senses slip between front and rear output shaft speed.
Great in theory but often does not meet expectations
Dave
Is this the dreaded "locked" viscous coupling I've heard about?
and its not a good system?
Gullible
10th July 2010, 05:46 PM
This one was parked on my way to work for a couple of weeks. The rear suspension sagged over the 1st week but not too much.
I do not know if they topped up the air throughout the day.
DT-P38
10th July 2010, 11:54 PM
Its been badged (a few letters are missing on the front) and had a bingle at some point. The front right guard's paint appears mismatched in those photo's. The interior looks more tired (or perhaps its just dirty!) than I would tend to expect for a 2000 model. Get it checked out mechanically by a trustworthy LR mechanic first... perhaps one of the local (to you) people on here could recommend someone. If you can, allow at least another $2-3K in your budget for some clever "refreshes" and possible fixes to ensure you get the pleasurable feelings the seller is telling you all about.
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 12:38 PM
Pedro
I had a good chat with JustinC yesterday about the P38s.
Look for the update,the changeover is 2000/2001.
The give away is the indicators are clear rather than amber,BEWARE may have lens swaps.
The update has the GEMS management,4 wheel traction control rather than 2.
Justin said to thoroughly check for slipped liners.Listen for any knocking sounds when hot,check for extreme pressure in the top hose whilst hot.When cold open the reservior lid,if the level drops there is air displacing coolant in the system.Check the carpets for coolant in the footwells around the blower outlets,a sure sign the cooling system is pressurising and forcing coolant past the o rings in the heater matrix.
Even if all is good expect to have to rebuild the bottom end in the future as its a matter of when not if the liners let go.$4500 for a bottom end rebuild with lipped liners from TRS.
The diffs are good,4 pinion units.Gearboxes are bulletproof,hasnt had and P38 viscous transfer issues.
Im waiting to contact the owner of one advertised in WA for a looksee.
Andrew
Scouse
11th July 2010, 12:52 PM
Thor/Bosch came with the 99MY (XA). These still had amber indicators. 00MY was the first with clear.
GEMS was 95-98MYs.
I don't believe all 99 onwards has 4 wheel TC. The models below HSE might only have 2 wheel TC.
Heater core O rings are common, with or without cooling system problems.
Front & rear diffs are supposed to be 4 pin on the later cars but AndrewE has found otherwise. All rears are definitely 4 pin.
Gullible
11th July 2010, 12:55 PM
I thought there was something not good when I checked out the photos on this one, there is a nasty stain in the footwell by the heater. Is this what you were talking about LandyAndy?
2001 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER S P38A MY2001 Private Cars For Sale in VIC - carsales.com.au (http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8561699&__sid=121911F2151C&YearFromShort=1644&__Qpb=true&Cr=4&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal%7c0%7c%7cpCar_RankSort _Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Mod el_String%7c0&keywords=&__N=1216%201247%201282%201252%201246%204294965541% 204294965478%201644&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=43&silo=1011)
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 03:28 PM
Thor/Bosch came with the 99MY (XA). These still had amber indicators. 00MY was the first with clear.
GEMS was 95-98MYs.
I don't believe all 99 onwards has 4 wheel TC. The models below HSE might only have 2 wheel TC.
Heater core O rings are common, with or without cooling system problems.
Front & rear diffs are supposed to be 4 pin on the later cars but AndrewE has found otherwise. All rears are definitely 4 pin.
Thanks Scott
On re-reading I see I got the GEMS/Thor arse about.
Thanks for the heads up on TC,I would only be looking at HSE,preferably Vouge.
Andrew
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 03:32 PM
I thought there was something not good when I checked out the photos on this one, there is a nasty stain in the footwell by the heater. Is this what you were talking about LandyAndy?
2001 LAND ROVER RANGE ROVER S P38A MY2001 Private Cars For Sale in VIC - carsales.com.au (http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=8561699&__sid=121911F2151C&YearFromShort=1644&__Qpb=true&Cr=4&__Ns=pCar_PriceSort_Decimal%7c0%7c%7cpCar_RankSort _Int32%7c1%7c%7cpCar_Make_String%7c0%7c%7cpCar_Mod el_String%7c0&keywords=&__N=1216%201247%201282%201252%201246%204294965541% 204294965478%201644&seot=1&__Nne=15&trecs=43&silo=1011)
Doesnt look like spilt LATTE or Cappucino does it.:D:D:D:D
Thanks for the pic,will look cloesly in that area on any I look at.
Andrew
d@rk51d3
11th July 2010, 03:40 PM
VERY tempted to have a go at this one.
Range Rover 2001 Vogue V8 "SHOW ROOM CONDITION"reg2011 - eBay, Passenger Vehicles, Cars, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 19-Jul-10 22:58:39 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Range-Rover-2001-Vogue-V8-SHOW-ROOM-CONDITION-reg2011-/260632860361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3caeedd6c9)
p38arover
11th July 2010, 04:21 PM
I thought there was something not good when I checked out the photos on this one, there is a nasty stain in the footwell by the heater. Is this what you were talking about LandyAndy?
Yes, that's exactly where leaking O-rings drip the coolant.
See our article at Heater Core O-Ring Replacement (http://www.rangerovers.net/repairdetails/heateroring.html)
p38arover
11th July 2010, 04:34 PM
Thanks Scott
On re-reading I see I got the GEMS/Thor arse about.
Thanks for the heads up on TC,I would only be looking at HSE,preferably Vouge.
Andrew
A Vogue is nicer! :angel:
(It's odd how many people spell that incorrectly so you aren't alone, Andrew.)
What about an Autobiography?
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 04:44 PM
A Vogue is nicer! :angel:
(It's odd how many people spell that incorrectly so you aren't alone, Andrew.)
What about an Autobiography?
When you finish writing it I MAY read it Ronald!!!!!!
Andrew
Pedro_The_Swift
11th July 2010, 05:40 PM
VERY tempted to have a go at this one.
Range Rover 2001 Vogue V8 "SHOW ROOM CONDITION"reg2011 - eBay, Passenger Vehicles, Cars, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 19-Jul-10 22:58:39 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Range-Rover-2001-Vogue-V8-SHOW-ROOM-CONDITION-reg2011-/260632860361?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Cars&hash=item3caeedd6c9)
yup,, and it will probably go for 28 to,,,
nice car:cool:
Pedro_The_Swift
11th July 2010, 05:41 PM
"What about an Autobiography?"
I'm lookin!!!
Theres a really nice green '98 one,,
pity its got 315k on it,,,,:(
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 06:16 PM
yup,, and it will probably go for 28 to,,,
nice car:cool:
Looked at a dark green one on friday,same age 106000ks,$29990. Told them they are dreaming.NICE CAR
Andrew
LandyAndy
11th July 2010, 06:20 PM
Pedro
Here is a link.Page3.
Julian Car Company - Wangara, Perth - Used Vehicles - Stocklist (http://www.juliancarco.com.au/main/pages/stocklist.php)
Andrew
stig0000
11th July 2010, 07:58 PM
"What about an Autobiography?"
I'm lookin!!!
Theres a really nice green '98 one,,
pity its got 315k on it,,,,:(
do not buy that car, its in our work shop all the time, and it is a big sty in there, it was a rare car stuffed
adm333
11th July 2010, 09:36 PM
Aha, seems a few blokes on here are being lured in by the evil temptress P38.
Well boys, I hope you've got what it takes to be a P38 owner...... a fair bit of cash to throw at it and bucket loads of patience and good humour.
I also recommend getting a bus pass and an iPod.
They are beautiful cars but if I had a dollar for every time everything was all working at the same time, lets just say someone would have to shout me a coffee.
What is it today, oh yes the window mechanism is stuffed so when you close the drivers window it doesn't stop, the motor keeps going and it sound like you being shot at by a machine gun. Sadly though, you are not.
:D
Dave
WasabiPimpNinja
12th July 2010, 10:02 AM
Pedro
Here is a link.Page3.
Julian Car Company - Wangara, Perth - Used Vehicles - Stocklist (http://www.juliancarco.com.au/main/pages/stocklist.php)
Andrew
Andrew,
I had a quick look at that car the other day while driving around for work. Looked nice at a quick glance. I tried to deal with Julian Car Co when I was buying mine, and the main seller there I found was quite rude to me, and his prices quite expensive. To give you an example, I bought mine privately for $17,500 which was a 2000 HSE 160,000kms.
I suspect the car advertised has had a minor prang at some stage being that the drivers fog light is smashed, the passenger one is from an earlier model, and the numberplate doesn't match the age of the vehicle. This generally means front end prang, parts replaced with cheapest available, and numberplate replaced because the old one was damaged. But that's just me being cautious.
PS, those fog light lenses are freaking expensive. Factor in around $300 for a replacement.
Good luck and let me know if you need a set of eyes in the big smoke ;)
Cheers,
Keels.
Gullible
12th July 2010, 06:38 PM
Aha, seems a few blokes on here are being lured in by the evil temptress P38.
They are beautiful cars but if I had a dollar for every time everything was all working at the same time, lets just say someone would have to shout me a coffee.
:D
Dave
Please tell me it does not have to be that way.
I keep being scared off the idea of a P38 due to their reputation for lousy reliability and the fact it would be our only car.
Yet I an drawn back time and again.
I find myself believing that a 2001 or 2002 would be more reliable than the earlier ones.
What is worse is that I keep seeing them on the road being driven around, not on the back of tow trucks....
Today I took it as a personal insult when a black HSE went past with L plates on:(
LandyAndy
12th July 2010, 07:30 PM
Aha, seems a few blokes on here are being lured in by the evil temptress P38.
Well boys, I hope you've got what it takes to be a P38 owner...... a fair bit of cash to throw at it and bucket loads of patience and good humour.
I also recommend getting a bus pass and an iPod.
They are beautiful cars but if I had a dollar for every time everything was all working at the same time, lets just say someone would have to shout me a coffee.
What is it today, oh yes the window mechanism is stuffed so when you close the drivers window it doesn't stop, the motor keeps going and it sound like you being shot at by a machine gun. Sadly though, you are not.
:D
Dave
Hey Dave
Ever owned a TD5 Disco,or any other Landy for that matter:D:D:D:D:D
They all are the same:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:
Andrew
adm333
13th July 2010, 08:42 AM
Please tell me it does not have to be that way.
I keep being scared off the idea of a P38 due to their reputation for lousy reliability and the fact it would be our only car.
Yet I an drawn back time and again.
I find myself believing that a 2001 or 2002 would be more reliable than the earlier ones.
What is worse is that I keep seeing them on the road being driven around, not on the back of tow trucks....
Today I took it as a personal insult when a black HSE went past with L plates on:(
There are a great many perishable components on a P38. I refer to rubber airbags, o'rings of all shapes and sizes, seals etc etc. All of these components need to be replaced over time, not distance. The time frame for replacing these bits is around ten years. If you buy a 2000 / 2001 model car that has not had these perishable components replaced then guess what.....they are about to show signs of wear and you will need to replace them. I believe that a big part of the "unreliability" reputation comes down to people not realising that these components simply need to be renewed, and before they cause bigger problems.
My P38 has been supremely reliable, with only 2 occasions where it let me down, both of which were understandable (flat battery etc).
However, I am a bit of a perfectionist and I make it a personal challenge to seek down every little niggly fault as soon as it shows and research it, understand it and fix it. If you are like this then the P38 is the perfect car for you. My point is that there is usually something of this nature to do. It can all be done very cheaply if you put in the time to find out how.
On the other hand if you are the sort of person who is not phased by little niggly things, then it could also work well.
Not trying to be negative, just trying to set a realistic expectation !!
:D
adm333
13th July 2010, 08:54 AM
Hey Dave
Ever owned a TD5 Disco,or any other Landy for that matter:D:D:D:D:D
They all are the same:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:
Andrew
Let the record show that on the 12th July 2010, LandyAndy said "They are all the same".
:p
Yes - I owned a classic RR before this one.
wayneg
13th July 2010, 05:45 PM
seek down every little niggly fault as soon as it shows and research it, understand it and fix it. If you are like this then the P38 is the perfect car for you. My point is that there is usually something of this nature to do. It can all be done very cheaply if you put in the time to find out how.
:D
So true and dont be afraid of a car for sale with these unfixed faults. If you are confident you know the cause you could grab a bargain. If you arnt the hands on type I would advise anyone to chose another model.
My Thor HSE 2000MY with 180000k`s cost me 10k a year ago
http://lh4.ggpht.com/_Z5aEoZj0rI8/TDqDXtcX8nI/AAAAAAAAChc/211lqoVsc7k/s128/DSCF0703.JPG
LandyAndy
13th July 2010, 08:10 PM
I can stop looking a P38a Rangies for the time being.Picking a TD5 Defender xtreme up saturday!!!!
Andrew
PaulP38a
13th July 2010, 10:17 PM
I can stop looking a P38a Rangies for the time being.Picking a TD5 Defender xtreme up saturday!!!!
Andrew
...from one xtreme to the other... (pun definately intended) :D
Can't believe you were considering a V8 Rangie and decided on a TD5 Defender :p Totally different vehicle/setup/suspension/comfort but still a great truck and they look great with roof mount spotties and Angelina Jolie in the driver's seat...
Cheers, Paul.
adm333
14th July 2010, 08:51 AM
Congratulations on the purchase.
I do need to keep my big mouth shut about owning a P38, 2 or 3 posts and it turns people off in droves.
Pedro_The_Swift
14th July 2010, 09:50 AM
worked for me!:p:p
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