Decisions

[Aussie]

Yes I'm back from the dead so to speak. My little trip on Anzac day will be remembered as a rather costly saga. Old, blown heater hose lets go on the way up to my "secret spot" which caused the dreaded overheat. Its only now after the thearpy that I can discuss it...lol Took it down to Glen at Roverland last week. I received the phone call that we all dread, "We have water in number 3 which means its stuffed" Being an ex diesel mechanic myself I shuddered and had to sit down quickly, luckily there was an alcoholic beverage just within arms reach. So after the dust has settled I have been thinking a few options.

12K - brand new donk, (without fitting cost)
8K - reco (WFC)
5K - ol chugga from hail damged (WFC)

Or I could part it out - Unknown total amount?

Could whack her on Ebay for $$$ as is.


Any thoughts chaps?

[PaulP38a]

If you have the room, time and inclination you will most likely get more if part it out.

Before you commit one way or the other give Andy (Andrew e) a call. Not sure if he has any reco engines available.

Cheers, Paul.

[WasabiPimpNinja]

What engine did your Rover have in it before? I got quoted $8k drive in drive out over here (WA) for a reco 4.6l, the engine alone was about $4k - $5k for memory. Would you be fitting it yourself?

Cheers,
Keels.

[BusinessConnected]

I've seen this stuff work on Minor Cracks ete... Might be worth a try for the $$$$.....

P38 Range Rover 4.6 Engine Repair Cracked Block / Head - eBay, Land Rover, Car Parts, Vehicle Parts Accessories. (end time 23-Jul-10 20:46:28 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/P38-Range-Rover-4-6-Engine-Repair-Cracked-Block-Head-/370296548067)

[Aussie]

Current motor is a 4.6L - I wouldnt do it myself, dont have the space or the patience to job a job such as this.


@Fish78 - You have Private messaging turned off, cannot reply to your PM

[adm333]

I would go the reco or the 2nd hand motor.

Brand new motor is a bit too much to spend IMHO.

At least with the reco you know you will get a couple of good years out of it. If you're planning to sell it, maybe the 2nd hand.

I think it will be easier to sell if it has a running motor.

Dave

[Fish78]

Sorry about that Aussie, i think its sorted now, although im not sure how it got turned off lol.

[DT-P38]

Here's another option... if your seriously selling, there appear to be a couple of fella's on here seriously trying to buy a decent one at the moment. Apart from the engine I remember yours had a LOT going for it. I assume you have receipts/proof for all the other good work/money you have poured into it.

Perhaps a blow up/cook is actually a good starting point for a new P38 owner. Sounds weird, but thinking about it, they get your ready for rebuild car and can do it to what ever level their budgets dictate. The new owner takes the thing over so they have less question marks hanging over it moving forward... you know like, why did he get rid of it? Was it just slapped together to move it on, etc, etc. I know I still think with mine that the PO wasn't to genuine with it all. And ultimately I'm going to need to replace every moving part eventually and probably just start again when finished!

I guess it would be a matter of working out what is the minimum you would let it go for and if that then brings it into line with their budgets (including rebuild costs for whatever option they then choose).

Just a thought, Dave.

[Razza's Rangie]

Hello to all in this thread!

Ok firstly AUSSIE, I feel your pain becaus i am in the same boat as you, here let me explain;

I had planned a week long camping trip in beautiful sunny cairns, when as i was driving i looked down and the high temp light was on. I pulled over as soon as i could (about 500m) and the car stalled. then in true hollywood style, I got the text book steam from under the bonnet, but lots of it. I immediately thought one of the hoses had let go. So i popped the bonnet to find coolant everywhere and the top radiator hose had just pulled off the radiator. Fairly odd, but not to bad, refitted, and refilled with water ( a fellow range rover driver stopped and offered me some, gosh we are a tight nit bunch arent we, oh p.s. thanks if your reading this in the white 4.6 that stopped to help)

What do you know as soon as i had added about 8 ltrs the temp gauge dropped back down, I initially thought, that was my only problem. she started on the second try. The servo was only about 8ks back so i decided to limp it back there and get some coolant. Added coolant and started motor. Funny squealing sound inside my rocker covers near No7, and as pointed out to me by a fellow driver, steam comming from the exhaust, LOTS OF STEAM.shut her down,got herr towed to rocky( a big thanks to Paul from hard range for helping my find somewhere to take it to, and thanks for the recommendation.)

Ok so they looked at it and said major coolant leak in no 7. so after reading online, i am guessing with out hard evidence that the linerr slipped in number 7 which put air in coolant, increased the pressure and popped the top radiator hose off dumping all the coolant and over heating.

So AUSSIE my options are simialr to yours:
1. Brand New 4.6 Short motor(short means with out the heads on it)
2. Brand New 4.6 Long motor
3. Reco 4.6
4. Brand new 4.0l Short
5. New 5.0lt from davis performance

With the cost ranging from $3800 to $9000 not fitted, some of them sleeved some of them pinned.

I also have a few options in regards fitting:
1. Fitting it myself - I have done thesee before but a long time ago in a well equipped workshop, currently i only have a single car garage and a medium stocked tool box
2. Getting it fitted by Landrover specialists - Cost is fairly negligable but roughly about 3-5weeks repair time.

So I am putting the call out to AUSSIE and all the other land rover owners for thoughts on what to do next.

*** HEY AUSSIE DO YOU THINK WE COULD GET A DISCOUNT FOR BUYING OuR MOTORS IN BULK?????****

RAZ

[Razza's Rangie]

Hey guys,
After talking to the mechanic (daniel) at rocky LR, he mentioned that if your on a certain level of RACQ that you have the choice to have the vehicle recovered to your home, or your nominated repairer near home.

After a quick call to the friendly people down at the RACQ ( bloody lucky i got that membership) and they said that they have option 4, where to owner can have the vehicle recoverd instead of repairing it!!!

So now that the tow home is free, I will be fitting a motor myself.!!!

Check out your Roadside assit policy if you ever need something like this

Cheers lads
RAZ

[Scouse]

In my experience, a slipped liner does not equal a massive coolant leak into a cylinder. I'd be betting you've had a head gasket let go to have that big a leak into #7.

The liner might still be a problem down the track though but that's not going to be the main cause of your leak IMO.

[Aussie]

The thing that really ticks me off is all the new gear I fitted to it recently, I was lucky in that it died not far from home so towing fee wasnt to bad. Anyhow still deciding what to do.

Razza - I like the idea of a 5Lt :) Maybe we do that....

[WasabiPimpNinja]

Hmmm, that reminds me, time to sign up for Roadside Assist...

Cheers,
Keels.

[wayneg]

If you are doing it yourself it might be cost effective to get a second hand engine shipped from the UK. I have no idea of the cost but I dont think it would be that outrageous, I shipped a whole car for 1000 pounds.
I recon you should be able to get a good engine shipped all up for less than A$2000, probably less
RANGE ROVER P38 4.6 V8 ENGINE TESTED/WARRANTY on eBay (end time 12-Aug-10 19:42:31 BST) (http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RANGE-ROVER-P38-4-6-V8-ENGINE-TESTED-WARRANTY-/220637069283?cmd=ViewItem&pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item335efe7fe3)

[Gullible]

Here's another option... if your seriously selling, there appear to be a couple of fella's on here seriously trying to buy a decent one at the moment.....

Perhaps a blow up/cook is actually a good starting point for a new P38 owner.
Just a thought, Dave.

You are right. I'm looking for one with a dead motor so I can get a T-sleeved motor put in that I know will be reliable. Only I'm not allowed to get another car at the moment :(

That and the fact I live in Sydney doesn't help you much.

Bruce Davis has a 5ltr, T-sleeve, liquid gas injection P38 he takes around the shows. Very nice, but way to quick for a granny driver like me.

[davo52]

I know exactly what you guys are feeling. My story is too long to relate here but very quick summary is, two hour drive at easter to a camping site, a 98 autobiography and 97 HSE both vehicles did liners on the same trip. One had lasted 2 years since rebuild after a cook-up and the other had lasted 2000km. Tested replacement blocks had been used in both original rebuilds but they still dropped liners without any prior symptoms.
Both are now fitted with flanged liner motors and I would NOT recommend anything else regardless of any warranty.

[Razza's Rangie]

Hey there guys,

thanks for all your feed back, i must say a big thanks to everyone for their help. Its not often you find a better bunch of blokes and ladies willing to help out with such an issue.

I am thinking that with my situation that the head gasket must have gone but i wont know till i get it home and pull it all apart. RACQ have been fantastic and helpful.

Would the head gasket going put enough air into the coolant to increae the pressure to blow the top radiator hose off? usually the coolant gets oil in it?

anyhow i am going to get it back home, pull out the motor in my single car garage, at the rate of two hours a night (thats all i have as i work 12 hours a day)....

***My girlfriend just gave me "THE CHAT", yep thats right the "Lets just sell the money pit" chat...oh no...

[Scouse]

Would the head gasket going put enough air into the coolant to increae the pressure to blow the top radiator hose off? usually the coolant gets oil in it?

Depends where it's blown/leaking. If it's between a combustion chamber & water jacket, then a big YES.
This is definitely what yours sounds like.


If the gasket blows between a water jacket & an oil gallery/passage (not all that common on the Rover V8), then you'll get the water/oil mayonaise mix.

[Aussie]

Well after chatting with the Mrs and to Glen I think I'll put her on Ebay and see what happens. Stay tuned :)

[Razza's Rangie]

Hey there guys,

Ok after much stuffing around and phone calls to a myriad of mechanics here are my options:

OPTION 1- MR AUTOMOTIVE (Redcliffe) Complete 4.6ltr $3950 Exchange with 3 mnth/10k warranty (by complete i mean with water pump,pas pump,alternator etc) **Chance that it blows a head gasket in the future, but i would replace head gaskets when i got it here after 3 months warranty was up**

OPTION 2- ALL 4x4 Spares (Sydney) Brand new Land Rover short motor, reco heads, 12months warranty, exchange $4400

OPTION 3- Remove my current block and test ($100) if condemned see option 1 or 2, If block tests ok then re-sleeve (t-sleeves)$2200 and rebuild items $2000

So guys I am thinking that option1 would be the best to get my car back on the road the quickest, although it would require removing and replacing the head gaskets at a later date (after the three month warranty i guess) which means that i would be up for about another $3000 (i would get it t-sleeved)

OPtion 2 after a re-sleeve(cheap insurance to make sure i never slip a liner) would cost about the same but the warranty is void if i re-sleeve it, maybe I should wait till after the 12month warranty is up.

Option 3 I would probably end up with the same quality as the complete motor although it would be re-sleeved so should see me through for a while

Can you let me know what you think?

[Aussie]

OPTION 1- MR AUTOMOTIVE (Redcliffe) Complete 4.6ltr $3950 Exchange with 3 mnth/10k warranty (by complete i mean with water pump,pas pump,alternator etc) **Chance that it blows a head gasket in the future, but i would replace head gaskets when i got it here after 3 months warranty was up**

Is that a rebuilt motor or one from a parted out RR? Are you doing the install yourself? If not add labour$$

I would be leaning toward option 2 myself as you know its new :)

[P38isuzu]

Hi, just read thread. I have a 4.6 engine (block, pistons sump etc, but no heads or accessories) for sale. Seems to turn over OK. Heads were cooked before I purchased the car. Any interest?

[davo52]

Option 3 for me. Only motor I would feel happy with.

[DT-P38]

the new short engine/reco heads option about a year ago now as it seemed to be the best all round (cost, longevity, warranty) solution to putting another 10 years usable life on my 1995 'Pretty Pig'. So far so good, however, I am still a little sore I wasn't aware of the T-Sleeving at the time and nearly always concious of the fact that sooner or later even 'the pig's' (almost) new engine will want to drop a liner (as it seems 9 out of 10 of these will). And finally now when thinking reliability and longevity, I am saying to myself what a dill that I didn't investigate chev LS options further...

[Razza's Rangie]

Hey there,
yeah i might go for the new motor option with the knowledge that ill have to pull it out again to top hat the sleeves
ryan

[Razza's Rangie]

yeah its just parted out of a RR