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Disco_owner
13th July 2010, 07:25 PM
Part 1


While I was down at the metal scrap yard this morning dropping off a heap of steel for recycling , I happended to notice a few "old LPG tanks" next to the Big Skip. I couldn't help myself so this is what i brought home with me x 3 :angel:



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/695.jpg

I have seen many different variations of this cooking stove/heater.
But I thought I'd do my own and I appologise in advance if my design is a copy,
I make no attempt to go commercial with this design.:angel:

so,to mark out the hatch I make a simple Template so that it would be easier
to mark out with a permanant marker by simply placing the templet over the
face of the gas tank and drawing around it.

I had some left over gal sheets from another project and squared off 1 side
of the gal sheet with a reasonably large set square to ensure the templete is
completely square before marking out the hatch template.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/696.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/697.jpg

cut off the excess piece marked off with tin snips.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/698.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/699.jpg

after checking all side with the set square to make sure
the sheet is square on all 4 sides.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/700.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/701.jpg


I placed an engineering ruler on the face of the gas tank and took some
measurements and worked out that a hatch 180 mm x 140 mm was a
reasonable size but others may make their hatch smaller or slightly bigger ,
the inside of the heater/stove will have a circular steel mesh to place firewood
on top so I didn't want to cut a hatch any bigger as hot coals would probably
fall out of the front hatch if it was open .:angel:

marking out the template for the hatch

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/702.jpg

180 mm x 140 mm Template cut with tip snips

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/703.jpg

I placed the template over the face of the gas tank and work it with
both hands so it takes the same curvature of the tank so on marking
out it is easier to hold it in place with 1 hand and mark out around it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/704.jpg

placed the sheet of metal over the edge of the bench and placed my
left hand on one side while trying to give it a nice gradual curve with
the other hand by pushing down and continued this until it has a nice
even curve to it until I was satisfied it followed the same curvature on
the face of the gas bottle. :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/705.jpg

I then placed the template over the face of the bottle and
marked out around the edges of the template. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/706.jpg

there it is , a nice straight clear mark and I have a template to
mark out another one if I have to make another one.:angel:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/707.jpg


ok , cutting a round tank on the ground can be a tricky experience
and one shouldn't attempt to do so, needs to be strapped down,
I found the best way to strapp it down was to attach it to a very
heavy cast steel base from our own fireplace with a strap for my roof rack.


now before anyone picks up from the pic below that my fingers are in
the way and I should be 1,0000,000 times more careful,the
angle grinder Wasn't running.this pic was taken for a demo only.:angel:
I still have all my fingers:p

you may like to drill a small hole ( say about 4.5 mm ) in each
corner for easy cutting and removal of the hatch


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/708.jpg


one side is cut

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/709.jpg

the front hatch is completely cut out.:cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/710.jpg

now it's time for the handle on the top to be cut for easier
marking out of a circle that needs to be cut on top of the
gas bottle for a stove and the steel plate for cooking.:twisted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/711.jpg

top handle cut with a thin disc on the 4 " inch grinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/712.jpg

Please Note !! These Bottles are all Empty meaning the
pressure inside is the same pressure as the outside .:p

Landy Smurf
13th July 2010, 07:32 PM
we tried getting some but they wouldnt let us take them for safety reasons

bee utey
13th July 2010, 07:36 PM
You would undoubtedly notice any leftover gas when the blade went through.:o
I would suggest unscrewing the valve first and leaving the cylinder outside venting overnight before friction cutting it.:)

Disco_owner
13th July 2010, 07:36 PM
we tried getting some but they wouldnt let us take them for safety reasons


I took 3 x of them this morning and no questions were asked.:angel: may be I should put you onto my scrap metal supplier:angel:

Disco_owner
13th July 2010, 07:39 PM
You would undoubtedly notice any leftover gas when the blade went through.:o
I would suggest unscrewing the valve first and leaving the cylinder outside venting overnight before friction cutting it.:)

hahah , yes thanks beauty , one thing I haven't mention in my post is that the valve was fully open when I picked them up in the scrap yard :D no gas in either of the bottles. and also I did drill a small hole to make sure :D

Edit:

I did say at the bottom of my post the bottles are empty:angel:

banjo
13th July 2010, 08:48 PM
AWESOME i cant wait to see more updates. . . . :D

mike_ie
13th July 2010, 08:56 PM
A couple of suggestions, if I may be so bold.

The first would be to untap the valve completely from the bottle and flushing it with water first. Gas can still remain in the bottle not under pressure, just waiting for an eager sparking grinder blade to slice its way in. Ask me and my singed-to-the-elbows arms three years ago how I know this.

And spot-weld the base of the bottle to something solid - workbench, manhole cover, whatever. It makes it MUCH easier to cut out without sending the bottle off in a random direction.

Nice job though! How well do these stoves work? I have a grinder and a couple of old LPG tanks out in the shed and there's nothing on telly....

LandyAndy
13th July 2010, 09:00 PM
I have started one,using a stainless beer keg;););)
Andrew

Disco_owner
13th July 2010, 09:08 PM
I have started one,using a stainless beer keg;););)
Andrew

that would be a nice project Andy and s'pose it wouldn't rust , I got these bottles for free so I can't really complain.:D I haven't put a lot of thought into it but what are you doing about the flu to draw air , are you extending your Flu out the side and then up ?

Disco_owner
13th July 2010, 09:17 PM
A couple of suggestions, if I may be so bold.

The first would be to untap the valve completely from the bottle and flushing it with water first. Gas can still remain in the bottle not under pressure, just waiting for an eager sparking grinder blade to slice its way in. Ask me and my singed-to-the-elbows arms three years ago how I know this.

And spot-weld the base of the bottle to something solid - workbench, manhole cover, whatever. It makes it MUCH easier to cut out without sending the bottle off in a random direction.

Nice job though! How well do these stoves work? I have a grinder and a couple of old LPG tanks out in the shed and there's nothing on telly....

Hi Mike;

they work quite nicely , with the Flu drawing air the intensity of the heat can be controlled with how far the hatch is "open" or "closed". ;)

Landy Smurf
13th July 2010, 09:25 PM
we cooked a roast with just 2 pieces of wood or half a round log for the fire

cal415
14th July 2010, 02:37 AM
Hey Khos,
I see the use of the ozpig over the weekend must have inspired you, i wish i have gone that way myself, it was bloody expensive and if i was to make a custom one i would use a bigger gas bottle. They are handle little things thats for sure!

cal415
14th July 2010, 02:37 AM
Hi Mike;

they work quite nicely , with the Flu drawing air the intensity of the heat can be controlled with how far the hatch is "open" or "closed". ;)

or how much air you blow into it with the air compressor :twisted::twisted:

Disco_owner
14th July 2010, 05:20 AM
Hey Khos,
I see the use of the ozpig over the weekend must have inspired you, i wish i have gone that way myself, it was bloody expensive and if i was to make a custom one i would use a bigger gas bottle. They are handle little things thats for sure!

for sure mate , seeing your ozpig definitely inspired me to make one, they are great not only as a heater but also a cooktop stove. one big downfall is they take up a little too much space in the truck for when we're going camping.:(


or how much air you blow into it with the air compressor :twisted::twisted:


lol. that's to get the fire going well initially then you back off :twisted::twisted: and no smoke, nice clean burn:D

cal415
14th July 2010, 10:52 AM
with the car space issue, i was thinking i dont really want to store it in the truck after its been used, not nice smelling ash while driving around. I was thinking it would be good to make some kind of carrier to hang off the spare or rear of the vehicle, i think mine will fit in my rear door basket but i havnt tried yet, they are not overly heavy when packed up and empty so a rear carrier shouldnt be to hard.

Rangier Rover
14th July 2010, 07:52 PM
Hey Khos, you been playin with compressed air again:twisted: Seems to be a trade mark of yours:D
Hmm, I have a spare 100lb bottle here:angel:

Disco_owner
14th July 2010, 08:40 PM
Hey Khos, you been playin with compressed air again:twisted: Seems to be a trade mark of yours:D
Hmm, I have a spare 100lb bottle here:angel:

who , me ? nah :angel:

wish I had come over a week earlier , could have cought up with you and rovercare. that 100lb bottle would make a very nice ozpig , may be next time I make it over to your joint i could get started on a nice ozpig for the rangier's shed.:D but then again there is the rangier rover wood heater..:twisted::twisted::twisted::twisted:

...now what was that about compressed air...:D

Rangier Rover
14th July 2010, 08:57 PM
Part 1


While I was down at the metal scrap yard this morning dropping off a heap of steel for recycling , I happended to notice a few "old LPG tanks" next to the Big Skip. I couldn't help myself so this is what i brought home with me x 3 :angel:



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/695.jpg

I have seen many different variations of this cooking stove/heater.
But I thought I'd do my own and I appologise in advance if my design is a copy,
I make no attempt to go commercial with this design.:angel:

so,to mark out the hatch I make a simple Template so that it would be easier
to mark out with a permanant marker by simply placing the templet over the
face of the gas tank and drawing around it.

I had some left over gal sheets from another project and squared off 1 side
of the gal sheet with a reasonably large set square to ensure the templete is
completely square before marking out the hatch template.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/696.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/697.jpg

cut off the excess piece marked off with tin snips.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/698.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/699.jpg

after checking all side with the set square to make sure
the sheet is square on all 4 sides.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/700.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/701.jpg


I placed an engineering ruler on the face of the gas tank and took some
measurements and worked out that a hatch 180 mm x 140 mm was a
reasonable size but others may make their hatch smaller or slightly bigger ,
the inside of the heater/stove will have a circular steel mesh to place firewood
on top so I didn't want to cut a hatch any bigger as hot coals would probably
fall out of the front hatch if it was open .:angel:

marking out the template for the hatch

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/702.jpg

180 mm x 140 mm Template cut with tip snips

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/703.jpg

I placed the template over the face of the gas tank and work it with
both hands so it takes the same curvature of the tank so on marking
out it is easier to hold it in place with 1 hand and mark out around it.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/704.jpg

placed the sheet of metal over the edge of the bench and placed my
left hand on one side while trying to give it a nice gradual curve with
the other hand by pushing down and continued this until it has a nice
even curve to it until I was satisfied it followed the same curvature on
the face of the gas bottle. :)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/705.jpg

I then placed the template over the face of the bottle and
marked out around the edges of the template. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/706.jpg

there it is , a nice straight clear mark and I have a template to
mark out another one if I have to make another one.:angel:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/707.jpg


ok , cutting a round tank on the ground can be a tricky experience
and one shouldn't attempt to do so, needs to be strapped down,
I found the best way to strapp it down was to attach it to a very
heavy cast steel base from our own fireplace with a strap for my roof rack.


now before anyone picks up from the pic below that my fingers are in
the way and I should be 1,0000,000 times more careful,the
angle grinder Wasn't running.this pic was taken for a demo only.:angel:
I still have all my fingers:p

you may like to drill a small hole ( say about 4.5 mm ) in each
corner for easy cutting and removal of the hatch


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/708.jpg


one side is cut

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/709.jpg

the front hatch is completely cut out.:cool:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/710.jpg

now it's time for the handle on the top to be cut for easier
marking out of a circle that needs to be cut on top of the
gas bottle for a stove and the steel plate for cooking.:twisted:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/711.jpg

top handle cut with a thin disc on the 4 " inch grinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/712.jpg

Please Note !! These Bottles are all Empty meaning the
pressure inside is the same pressure as the outside .:p


Looks like your a lot more careful with an angle grinder than a kitchen knife:D

Nice work:) Since you have two bottles left over why not join them together. Extenda pig:D

Disco_owner
14th July 2010, 09:10 PM
Looks like your a lot more careful with an angle grinder than a kitchen knife:D

Nice work:) Since you have two bottles left over why not join them together. Extenda pig:D

:o

I like the idea of extended stove , which way would you join them together thou?

2 x horizontal bottles welded together to make one with a single flue..:)

I like the horizontal version with a round hatch , think I will do one of these next ...:)
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


I'd unscrew and remove the valve and cut out a circle on top which will be the hatch hindged off down the side .

what do you reckon...:)

dobbo
14th July 2010, 09:26 PM
Khos


how about building a spit from a horizontal 100l LPG tank?

Rangier Rover
14th July 2010, 09:27 PM
:o

I like the idea of extended ozpig , which way would you join them together thou?

2 x horizontal bottles welded together to make one with a single Flu...:)

I like the horizontal version with a round hatch , think I will do one of these next ...:)
http://www.sharkdesigns.co.uk/pictures/cooking/500_ozpig_wok.jpg


I'd unscrew and remove the valve and cut out a circle on top which will be the hatch hindged off down the side .

what do you reckon...:)

Knock the bum out of both bottles and weld them together. Have the flue at one end and you have two cook trivets,
Or take 1/3 out of the second bottle and graft it on the side of the original stove with a large door on the side, One oven:) May look odd though:confused:

Disco_owner
14th July 2010, 09:35 PM
Khos


how about building a spit from a horizontal 100l LPG tank?


That definitely be done matt,cut the 100l bottle right down the middle section,you have two equal halves , similar to this one perhaps?

there is a little more work to it , but doable. :)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/690.jpg

dobbo
14th July 2010, 09:50 PM
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/690.jpg

Landyandy was tagged in this photo:D:D:D:D
He's my twin brother


Is it just me or does the thought of piggy on a spit get everybody all excited?

Landy Smurf
14th July 2010, 10:28 PM
just you

Disco_owner
15th July 2010, 03:51 PM
Part 2


Had to go back to the metal recyclers this morning (my favourite place) to pick up an old "chimney flue" which would be cut down to size for the trivet on top of the stove :) whilst I was there, I was looking around for a few more gas bottles and just happened to spot a few more in a pile ,so I asked if I could take a few more bottle.the answer was ,"take as many as you like" ,we can't get rid of them.:angel:so this is what followed me home:angel: looks like the stove is going to have an extended family.:angel:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/676.jpg

Anyhow back to the "project". to get the paint of the surface of the bottle for my stove, I used some "polystrip paint stripper" and applied the stuff with a small paint brush on the surface of the bottle,I'd say at a guess you need to allow about 15-20 minutes for the stripper to fully react and work into the paint and allow bubbles to form before scraping/wirebrushing off the paint.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/677.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/678.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/679.jpg

with a wiredisc brush thingy attached to the 4"inch grinder , I cleaned up all
the paint very quickly once the stripper had gotton into the paint and worked
it's magic. and there I had a nice clean bottle ready for weld.


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/680.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/681.jpg

to mark out the circle for the trivet , I placed the Flu on top and marked out around it with a permanent marker, so it will be cut out before a section of pipe is welded in placed.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/682.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/683.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/684.jpg

for the base of the stove, i decided to use an old vented brake rotor I had sitting in the garage which was going to get chucked out in the rubbish but gladly it didn't:) it came up very nicely with a wire brush on the 4" inch grinder.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/685.jpg

placed the gas bottle on top of the rotor and tacked it in with a stick welder and finished welding the bottom of it.:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/686.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/687.jpg

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 01:17 PM
Part 3

Drilled 2 small Holes close to the inside edge of the
cutting line and with the help of a metal cutting tool(saw)
in the Jigsaw chuck I started cutting , it's a slow process but I wasn't in a rush.;)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/646.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/647.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/648.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/649.jpg

the hole was tight so I opended it up
a bit with help of fibre-glass grinding disc on the 4"inch
grinder, just enough for the chimney
flu to be pushed inside from the top.:)

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/650.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/651.jpg

I also bought a couple of stainless steel hindges
from bunnings ready to be welded on.Haven't
decided what to do about the legs , I've thought about
boring/ drilling 4 holes into the vented rotor and insert
a threded pipe inside the holes and weld them as a captive
threaded pipe so the legs can be screwed onto them
incase I need to pull it apart and take the ozpig camping for ease
of disassembly /reassembly. what are your thoughts?

bee utey
16th July 2010, 01:39 PM
If you are gonna use pipe legs just visit a hydraulics shop, buy 3 female steel sockets with the correct pipe thread, weld the sockets straight to the bottom of the stove, then lose the vented disc base. Save a heap of weight and the stove will be at a better height.:)

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 01:45 PM
Thanks Bee utey ,I appreciate that sort of feedback, I have added a fair amount of weight to the thing haven't I:D wasn't even sure if it was the direction I wanted to go:( will **** the vented rotor off by cutting it off.

bee utey
16th July 2010, 01:57 PM
Thanks Bee utey ,I appreciate that sort of feedback, I have added a fair amount of weight to the thing haven't I:D wasn't even sure if it was the direction I wanted to go:( will **** the vented rotor off by cutting it.
No dramas, if you make the sockets sit near the same depth as the existing foot ring it will be more stable even when you use it without legs.
Add a ring of 8mm rod around the sockets and you'll have a grip to shift it when burning, too.

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 02:51 PM
:clap2:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/645.jpg

it shed a few kilo's instantly :angel:

cal415
16th July 2010, 03:29 PM
Nice work Khos, i will have to do up a slightly bigger one too, something better for around the year and shed, that one did look cool with the brake rotor as a foot.... did you do anything to the bottles before cutting them to get rid of any left over gas? or just left them with the valve open? Ive got a spare Galvanised gas tank at home thats well out of date... i might do something with that for a bigger version of my little stove.

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 03:38 PM
Nice work Khos, i will have to do up a slightly bigger one too, something better for around the year and shed, that one did look cool with the brake rotor as a foot.... did you do anything to the bottles before cutting them to get rid of any left over gas? or just left them with the valve open? Ive got a spare Galvanised gas tank at home thats well out of date... i might do something with that for a bigger version of my little stove.

Hi mick;

It did look cool with the Brake rotors welded to the bottom of it but unfortunately it weighted heaps.:(
as bee-utey pointed out to keep the weight down the bottom had to go.

Re: with the gas inside the tanks I made sure that the valves were open when I picked them up at scrap yard but and when I got home even drilled a small hole into the side of the tank to make sure that there was no left over gas ,I could not unscrew the valves on that particular bottle, someone else pointed out it would be a good idea to completely removed the valve and wash the tank with water , personally I think that is a bit extreme.

I actually did pick up a 4.5 kg gas tank that someone had thrown out in the same pile which was almost full of gas. we'll have plenty of heat for a week at our place:angel:

Rangier Rover
16th July 2010, 09:07 PM
Hi mick;

It did look cool with the Brake rotors welded to the bottom of it but unfortunately it weighted heaps.:(
as bee-utey pointed out to keep the weight down the bottom had to go.

Re: with the gas inside the tanks I made sure that the valves were open when I picked them up at scrap yard but and when I got home even drilled a small hole into the side of the tank to make sure that there was no left over gas ,I could not unscrew the valves on that particular bottle, someone else pointed out it would be a good idea to completely removed the valve and wash the tank with water , personally I think that is a bit extreme.

I actually did pick up a 4.5 kg gas tank that someone had thrown out in the same pile which was almost full of gas. we'll have plenty of heat for a week at our place:angel:

You just need a 120" with air springs and the weight wont be a problem:D

I'm a little concerned about the safety of cutting the little vessels but must say, I have never seen one blow. Even in a fire and a hose burnt off, so long the valves open it's quite safe to sneak up and turn it off. Just for a little experiment, I may let one rip here and ark it up to solve the myth:D
It would definitely go bang if exposed to a lot of heat with the valve closed:eek:

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 09:14 PM
You just need a 120" with air springs and the weight wont be a problem:D

I'm a little concerned about the safety of cutting the little vessels but must say, I have never seen one blow. Even in a fire and a hose burnt off, so long the valves open it's quite safe to sneak up and turn it off. Just for a little experiment, I may let one rip here and ark it up to solve the myth:D
It would definitely go bang if exposed to a lot of heat with the valve closed:eek:


If you do let one go , can you do a video of it :D I can still remember the coke bottle down the rangier's wood heater flu :angel: my dog has never run so fast :eek::D

when I picked up all the bottles from the metal scrapyard , I checked everyone to make sure the valves were open , I did however come accross one ( as mentioned) that was full of gas and is now happily providing free heat in our house:angel:

LandyAndy
16th July 2010, 09:18 PM
that would be a nice project Andy and s'pose it wouldn't rust , I got these bottles for free so I can't really complain.:D I haven't put a lot of thought into it but what are you doing about the flu to draw air , are you extending your Flu out the side and then up ?

Ive got a 3" 90deg bend and chimney.
I got my 2 stainless kegs from the scrap metal dump in town.

Andrew

LandyAndy
16th July 2010, 09:21 PM
Landyandy was tagged in this photo:D:D:D:D
He's my twin brother


Is it just me or does the thought of piggy on a spit get everybody all excited?


Shouldnt be slaging off your big red Bro from WA like that Dobbo:p:p:p:p:p:p
Andrew

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 09:23 PM
Ive got a 3" 90deg bend and chimney.
I got my 2 stainless kegs from the scrap metal dump in town.

Andrew


had a look around today for a stainless steel keg in the metal recylcers and can't say I saw any, but saw plenty of gas bottles:D;)

Rangier Rover
16th July 2010, 09:40 PM
had a look around today for a stainless steel keg in the metal recylcers and can't say I saw any, but saw plenty of gas bottles:D;)

Why don't you make a small waste oil heater out of one:D Would have to work with a 4" flue and scaled down vaporizer:) Oil powered :twisted: With air injection:twisted::twisted:

Disco_owner
16th July 2010, 10:24 PM
Why don't you make a small waste oil heater out of one:D Would have to work with a 4" flue and scaled down vaporizer:) Oil powered :twisted: With air injection:twisted::twisted:

you have "evil" thoughts ...:twisted:...I like that ...

the thought of a baby oil heater has crossed my mind:twisted:
a "wittle baby Sputnik" :D

may have access to an endless supply of waste oil :eek: but no good in our house, will be a good heater for the garage in winter .

Disco_owner
17th July 2010, 11:49 AM
Part 4


The Hinge I used for the stove is a stainless/steel hinge from Bunnings ( $6.95 ea) , and the U-shaped handle is another stainless steel fitting I had in my bits box which I wanted to use, others may like to use different fitting/hinges.;)

there is a small gap on top of the door probably because when I cut out the hatch with a thin disc it removed some of the steel on all sides , so to overcome the gap I'm thinking of welding a long piece of 4-5 mm flat stock on the top over the gap so that there is minimal draft in If I want to fully close the hatch. what are your thoughts on this one? will i need to close the gap?



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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/614.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/615.jpg


The Trivet will be cut and welded this afternoon hopefully and then onto the legs and the base for the inside of the ozpig.

mike_ie
17th July 2010, 01:03 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the gap, but if you want to seal it up, why not cut a bigger door from a second LPG bottle? It's not as if you are suffering from a shortage of the things at the moment :D

Disco_owner
17th July 2010, 02:24 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the gap, but if you want to seal it up, why not cut a bigger door from a second LPG bottle? It's not as if you are suffering from a shortage of the things at the moment :D

certaily no shortage of gas bottle...:D:D:p

the door and hindge and U-bracket are all welded in place, I'd be too much work to cut another door and weld it in , and I'd have to use another stainless steel hindge and Ubolt ;) think I'd just leave it.;)

any idea how to get rid of the powder coating on Chimney Flues Mikie? paint stripper doesn't seem to do anything to the surface .. tried to grind the stuff off , but it's a lot of work. I can't seem to get a good earth to weld it in.:(

mike_ie
17th July 2010, 03:16 PM
Powdercoating is easy to get off - wire brush on the end of the angle grinder removes it in minutes. And if my roofrack is anything to go by, dropping stuff/rubbing up against it/breathing too heavily near it removes it by the acre...

Are you sure that your chimney flue is powdercoated though?? I think, if I'm not mistaken, that rather than powder, a thin coat of enamel is baked onto them as it withstands the high temperatures very well, and would fit with your description of it being a pain to grind off. If thats the case, good luck - it'll be hard work no matter what you do.

p38arover
17th July 2010, 04:04 PM
Had to go back to the metal recyclers this morning (my favourite place) to pick up an old "chimney Flu" which would be cut down to size for the trivett on top of the ozpig :) whilst I was there, I was looking around for a few more gas bottles and just happened to spot a few more in a pile ,so I asked if I could take a few more bottle.the answer was ,"take as many as you like" ,we can't get rid of them.:angel:so this is what followed me home:angel: looks like the ozpig is going to have an extended family.:angel:


I think I am going to have to come and visit you to find this recycler!

VladTepes
17th July 2010, 04:18 PM
Bugger that you are better waiting and visiting a certain fellas agrage !

Disco_owner
17th July 2010, 05:21 PM
I think I am going to have to come and visit you to find this recycler!

the "said" metal recycler's location is a secret Ron:angel: I can't reveal their location.:twisted::D:D:p cause before you know it there will be 100 or so Aulorians there taking all the useful stuff and then I'm left with no gas bottles...:p





for sure Ron , pop around and we'll take a drive down there;)

Disco_owner
17th July 2010, 05:26 PM
Powdercoating is easy to get off - wire brush on the end of the angle grinder removes it in minutes. And if my roofrack is anything to go by, dropping stuff/rubbing up against it/breathing too heavily near it removes it by the acre...

Are you sure that your chimney flue is powdercoated though?? I think, if I'm not mistaken, that rather than powder, a thin coat of enamel is baked onto them as it withstands the high temperatures very well, and would fit with your description of it being a pain to grind off. If thats the case, good luck - it'll be hard work no matter what you do.

no,I'm not sure if it is a powder coat , I think you're spot on , it is a coat of HT Enamel baked on. won't come off with paint stripper, I've already tried :(

Disco_owner
18th July 2010, 04:02 PM
Anybody here know what I can use to remove the Baked Enamel paint on an old chimney Flu ? I've already tried Paint srtipper:angel: Might have to go to plan B.

Sideroad
18th July 2010, 04:31 PM
Or even better, take the valve off, fill with water and that way all remaining gas is pushed out of the bottle. One of those exploding could cause some news worthy issues.


You would undoubtedly notice any leftover gas when the blade went through.:o
I would suggest unscrewing the valve first and leaving the cylinder outside venting overnight before friction cutting it.:)

Disco_owner
18th July 2010, 05:06 PM
A couple of suggestions, if I may be so bold.

The first would be to untap the valve completely from the bottle and flushing it with water first. Gas can still remain in the bottle not under pressure, just waiting for an eager sparking grinder blade to slice its way in. Ask me and my singed-to-the-elbows arms three years ago how I know this.

And spot-weld the base of the bottle to something solid - workbench, manhole cover, whatever. It makes it MUCH easier to cut out without sending the bottle off in a random direction.

Nice job though! How well do these stoves work? I have a grinder and a couple of old LPG tanks out in the shed and there's nothing on telly....


Or even better, take the valve off, fill with water and that way all remaining gas is pushed out of the bottle. One of those exploding could cause some news worthy issues.

That idea has already been suggested by Mikie in an earlier post. The bottle was empty from the start as Valve was open, I Couldnot Take the Valve OFF but even to make sure I drilled a small hole into the Bottle with valve fully open to ensure no excess gas existed. I'm 100% ok & no news Crew outside the House:p:p:p

Disco_owner
19th July 2010, 09:32 PM
been down to Pirtek this afternoon and bought 3 female sockets 3/8" inch bsp thread for the legs ( thanks bee utey ) and welded them on the bottom of the unit :D also used a piece of HD pipe that was already oxy accetylene cut so I used that piece as the Trivet and tacked it with Mig and welded it inplace. it's not looking too badly ,now I need to bore a hole for an elbow on the back of the stove and make up the legs and she is finished.;)

Disco_owner
21st July 2010, 12:35 PM
Part 5

The pipe I chose for the trivet was a pre-cut piece which was cut on the
rotating oxy cutter and I welded it to top of the stove :)
also the hole I cut with a jigsaw to meaurements of ouside diameter of the Chimney
flu is co-incidetally a perfect size. :eek:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/452.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/453.jpg

I also marked out where the female 3/8" inch bsp sockets
have to be and tacked them in.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/454.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/455.jpg

what's left now is to bore a hole on the back of the stove for
the flu elbow and a ring from round solid steal welded to the
sockets for a handle and then should be ready for a test run .

Also in parallel to the stove I've stripped the paint off a 9kg
bottle and I'm planning on turning that into a horizontal stove.:)

banjo
21st July 2010, 07:04 PM
So how much will you be charging for these as i would be up for one . . . .:cool:

Disco_owner
21st July 2010, 11:01 PM
So how much will you be charging for these as i would be up for one . . . .:cool:

Hi Mate;

I've sent you a PM. ;)

I've got to check out few things with the moderators first.:cool:

Disco_owner
26th July 2010, 09:44 PM
hi guys

Just a quick update on what's been happening , I machine down a piece of round stock on the lathe so that I could stock & die the thread to accept 3/8" bsp , this will allow me to screw the legs in to the sockets when needed and undo them when packing up and putting away the stove , the die set was badly worn so looks like I will be screw cutting on the lathe :)

I've also put thru a stainless steel solid rod thru roller and make a ring for a handle ,think I'll tack it to the trivet on the top not the bottom for easy carrying of the camping stove , will give me a bigger surface area for frying pan and camp oven to sit on top of the trivet , probably wil be more stable.:) more pics to come .

Rangier Rover
26th July 2010, 10:17 PM
Good to see you putting your skills to use:) Especially if its a one off. Your time is the labour of love.

Looking forward to the finished product. knowing you it will be a:cool: result.

Disco_owner
27th July 2010, 05:20 AM
Hi Tony , I read what happend to you in the other thread , I hope you're ok mate? :eek::eek::eek:

I think I might have actually stuffed the rollers up by running stainless steel thru them.:( not good specially when I was told not to use Stainless rods on the rollers at school:angel:

Disco_owner
29th July 2010, 08:12 PM
Part 6

okay some more progress ,I machined down a rounded solid steel bar to 16.66 mm & threaded it on the lathe to imperial 3/8 " bsp for a hydraulic fitting.:)

previously had to download some information regarding the external and internal diametres of this particular thread and work out the depth.;)

cut the threaded rod in 3 equal pieces on the band-saw so one end supposedly screws into the female sockets on the bottom of the stove and the other side into one end of the pipe which I found just looking around the workshop.

I ran a suitabe size tap inside the female sockets also due to fact that the threading was tappered my threaded rod had parallel threads, so no smooth action there.:angel: and ran a die over the threaded rod to clean off all the left over on the thread ( swarf )


dodgy brothers inc.:twisted:

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only thing left is now the Flu................ :angel:

Rangier Rover
29th July 2010, 09:00 PM
VFB BE.;) ^^^^ Nothing wrong with the legs.:) Maybe knock them off 2" down and machine a step to accept some lighter weight tubing if you would like them lighter.:)

warren9981
29th July 2010, 09:51 PM
I wouldn't worry too much about the gap, but if you want to seal it up, why not cut a bigger door from a second LPG bottle? It's not as if you are suffering from a shortage of the things at the moment :D

You could still retrofit this without redoing the hinge etc.
Just make a bigger door, cut out the centre of the "NEW" door so that it becomes a flange and then weld it around the outside edge of the existing door. This will then allow you to cut around the hinge and catch prior to welding it on.

Disco_owner
30th July 2010, 04:48 AM
VFB BE.;) ^^^^ Nothing wrong with the legs.:) Maybe knock them off 2" down and machine a step to accept some lighter weight tubing if you would like them lighter.:)

I personally think the legs are rather light weight , they're not a solid piece ;)

The threaded end you see in the photo is not part of the legs , it's actually a threaded rod screwd inside the hollow tube , this is why I ran the Tap inside the tube to accept the threaded solid bar for the legs , so it all comes apart.:)


Edit : changed the wording ..

Disco_owner
30th July 2010, 04:55 AM
You could still retrofit this without redoing the hinge etc.
Just make a bigger door, cut out the centre of the "NEW" door so that it becomes a flange and then weld it around the outside edge of the existing door. This will then allow you to cut around the hinge and catch prior to welding it on.

hi warren , I wouldn't worry too much about that gap ;) infact be good to have it so I can close the front hatch for a slowwww combustion. :D

seriously , IF I wanted to close the gap , just a piece of flat welded accross the edge on top , will do.;)

Rangier Rover
30th July 2010, 07:23 AM
I guess all the picket fences in your area are in danger now:twisted:
Looks great! Will be a magic little heater wile not cooking on it:cool:

Disco_owner
30th July 2010, 09:55 AM
I guess all the picket fences in your area are in danger now:twisted:
Looks great! Will be a magic little heater wile not cooking on it:cool:


we do have a combustion wood heater in place of our fire place which gives off plenty of heat.... :twisted::twisted::twisted:

Re: Camping Stove, I'll do some vids of it when it's running and stick a coke bottle filled with "magic gas" and see how quickly it'll explode :p:p:D:eek:

Disco_owner
7th August 2010, 01:21 PM
Final Part

Made another trip down to the metal recylcers again :angel: to look around for
a piece of light gauge copper pipe and a 90 deg bend which I found. when I
got back home I marked out and cut a hole on the back of the stove with a
jigsaw and cleaned it up , the 90 deg bend fits in their quite nicely.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1246.jpg



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1247.jpg


I'll cut out a circular steel mesh and use it as a sarificial
floor for the inside and then fire it up and give it a test run.

Disco_owner
7th August 2010, 09:35 PM
I threw some firewood inside tonight and lit her up....to
be entirely honest I'm a bit disappointed...:(:(


it doesn't give out enough heat.........:twisted::twisted::p



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1232.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1233.jpg

Rangier Rover
3rd October 2010, 07:37 PM
Just to prove these vessels don't blow up when cut, I made this in 45mins yesterday .
Knocked the valve out, filled with H2O, drilled a hole, Jig sawed the door out, then used the oxy on the rest:twisted:
A few bits of scrap, some bird poop weld and jobs done.:)
Went Camping last night and worked beautifully. As a heater and a stove. Very economical on fire wood too.

I was quite surprised how many people came over to see what it was.:confused: They all now want one:angel:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

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Rangier Rover
6th October 2010, 12:13 PM
Just to prove these vessels don't blow up when cut, I made this in 45mins yesterday .
Knocked the valve out, filled with H2O, drilled a hole, Jig sawed the door out, then used the oxy on the rest:twisted:
A few bits of scrap, some bird poop weld and jobs done.:)
Went Camping last night and worked beautifully. As a heater and a stove. Very economical on fire wood too.

I was quite surprised how many people came over to see what it was.:confused: They all now want one:angel:

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29466&stc=1&d=1286098226

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29467&stc=1&d=1286098254

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29468&stc=1&d=1286098321

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http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=29470&stc=1&d=1286098380

Well, that one didn't last long.:( One of my neighbours has knocked it off:mad:
Took it over for a test run and he wouldn't let me take it home.
Recons I should make a camp oven out of the lower half of another 9kg bottle to go with the stove.

I'll sneak over late tonight and pinch it pack.:angel:

Disco_owner
8th October 2010, 09:46 PM
you done well Tony , I haven't been online for a while :( but I reckon that Pig , I mean Camping heater / stove would sell on Evilbay :twisted: the bird poo welds are part of the asthetic feature of the heater , it gives it that Bushie look :D

I've got a few more gas bottle here if you wana do some more.:D

Corgie Carrier
10th October 2010, 12:54 PM
Just a little safety hint:

Even with the vavle open the bottle can still hold gas. LPG is heavier than air so some can sit in the bottom of the cylinder.

To be sure it is empty store the cylinder upside down with the valve open and the gas will drain out. It also stops condensation building up and rusting out the bottom, while you are waiting to make something out of it.

By the way, GREAT JOB to both of you. I have a few old cylinders that I am gonna make into a shed heater before next winter.

Thanks for the idea

Neale

wombat_831
11th October 2010, 01:00 PM
my old man used to make camping toilets and other stuff from 20l drums and yabby cookers from 120l drums and we did some stuff with 205l drums too just cant remember what it was now. and when we used to cut them up we used to fill them (full no vapour space) with water first it worked a treat just dont let the cutting wheel drop too far into the water or use an air grinder. i also remember some friends making a raft welding 205l drums together and oopsys didnt fill with water first and big big bang. verry lucky to still be here i want to make one of these little stoves when i can find myself a cylinder and ill be filling it full of water and cutting it with the oxy.