View Full Version : Intercooling versus other?
Rangier Rover
17th July 2010, 09:01 AM
I know we have a brazilian threads here on Turboing and intercooling.
My idea here is to start a discussion on is "intercooling always better" in some applications.
After rovercare drove my 4BD1T that has same Turbo as his intercooled Rangie job we have come up with the assumption the non intercooled may be more responsive at low RPM to a point. Less lag etc.
Matt is going to try a VNT set up next with no intercooler and see how it goes.
I've gone a bit cold on intercooling for a wile as the drivability of mine if perfect for what I use it for now. And is very good on fuel. Can poke about for hours in the bush and the gauge is still on a quarter.
Do we all really need the intercooler?
May be for top gear hwy performance?
Does it really make enough diference on a 4BD1T to justify the cost and lack of simplicity? (More hose's and a core to puncture etc)
abaddonxi
17th July 2010, 09:21 AM
Does a 12v fan on the intercooler make a difference at low revs?
Or as Lokka suggested - Water to Air Intercooler (http://www.siliconeintakes.com/product_info.php?cPath=7&products_id=1006&osCsid=ac6c816cdca57e30c3c378dbd0ac232d)
slug_burner
17th July 2010, 01:01 PM
Isn't the 4BD1-T in trucks set up with a pipe from turbo to inlet plenum directly over the rocker cover? No intercooler there.
Probably end up running higher EGT under constant high boost.
Bigbjorn
17th July 2010, 03:05 PM
When intercooling an engine not designed that way, you need to keep in mind a couple of things. Intercooling results in a cooler, denser air charge. To take advantage of this you need to add more fuel. Cooling the charge air results in a pressure drop across the intercooler. If you wish to maintain the prior boost level you may need to fit a higher capacity turbocharger or supercharger, or speed up the supercharger.
Dougal
17th July 2010, 03:48 PM
That depends.
Do you spend a lot of time at high boost levels (continually above 15 psi)?
Do you have a problem keeping EGT's down?
Do you want more power?
If not, then why bother with an intercooler?
You can just keep increasing boost to reduce EGT's, but this gets counter productive as boost pressures rise. 12psi with a very good intercooler will give the same air density as 20psi with no intercooler. This makes it quite obvious that intercooled engines are more efficient than non intercooled.
Isuzu added an intercooler to their indirect injection 4BD2T, but even with the intercooler it was 5% less efficient than the 4BD1T using their EPA figures for power and fuel injection quantities.
What turbo are you running?
Blknight.aus
17th July 2010, 05:17 PM
if you setup the VNT properly youd be mad not to run the intercooler. the VNT tries its very best to make boost all the way across the rev range so in theory (but not quite in practice) once its running its on boost.. (most require a touch of throttle to get the exhaust pressure up while at idle) if its on boost then the intercooler is already up to charge pressure so there should be very little lag compared to not having the intercooler.
DRanged
17th July 2010, 06:07 PM
I know we have a brazilian threads here on Turboing and intercooling.
My idea here is to start a discussion on is "intercooling always better" in some applications.
After rovercare drove my 4BD1T that has same Turbo as his intercooled Rangie job we have come up with the assumption the non intercooled may be more responsive at low RPM to a point. Less lag etc.
Matt is going to try a VNT set up next with no intercooler and see how it goes.
I've gone a bit cold on intercooling for a wile as the drivability of mine if perfect for what I use it for now. And is very good on fuel. Can poke about for hours in the bush and the gauge is still on a quarter.
Do we all really need the intercooler?
May be for top gear hwy performance?
Does it really make enough diference on a 4BD1T to justify the cost and lack of simplicity? (More hose's and a core to puncture etc)
Thats the reason I fitted one. For the motorway use towing the camper getting to the 4wd destination. It makes no differance off road in lo range. Dont even know how much it helps on road, but why not fit it. It cant hurt to try and cool the intake air.
Justin
justinc
17th July 2010, 06:38 PM
Like my Namesake mentioned, I fitted my air to air front mount for the highway at 15+psi boost towing. I can feel a HUGE temp differential between inlet and outlet pipework after a long hill climb, so yes it is worthwhile in THAT application. Water to air is 4 times as efficient at heat transfer, but there is more complexity in the system due to the requirement for a form of heat exchanger and water pump etc etc. For most uses, 10 to 12 psi and no intercooler is quite adequate, at least on a 4BD1 in a Landy/Rangie.
JC
big guy
17th July 2010, 06:40 PM
Have a look on thermoguard.com website.
They go into a bit of technical advise and are based on research.
The guy also drives a Landy and is a retailer of EGT gauges.
Cheers
justinc
17th July 2010, 06:49 PM
Have a look on thermoguard.com website.
They go into a bit of technical advise and are based on research.
The guy also drives a Landy and is a retailer of EGT gauges.
Cheers
Agree, a good source of info, Ian is very knowledgable and best of all, has done the research IN THE FIELD on his own vehicle.
JC
Dougal
17th July 2010, 07:43 PM
Water to air is 4 times as efficient at heat transfer, but there is more complexity in the system due to the requirement for a form of heat exchanger and water pump etc etc.
What that means is an air/water exchanger can be more compact. But you still need to shed all that heat to air in the same manner as an air/air intercooler (i.e. radiator in the airflow somewhere).
1103.9TDI
17th July 2010, 08:15 PM
What that means is an air/water exchanger can be more compact. But you still need to shed all that heat to air in the same manner as an air/air intercooler (i.e. radiator in the airflow somewhere).
Yes, but another issue for a 4be, is a stick through the front, rendering damage to the intercooler, in a WTA, the intercooler ceases to operate. No great issue. How would one repair a damaged standard intercooler in the bush, it's now part of the induction system?.
justinc
17th July 2010, 08:19 PM
Yes, but another issue for a 4be, is a stick through the front, rendering damage to the intercooler, in a WTA, the intercooler ceases to operate. No great issue. How would one repair a damaged standard intercooler in the bush, it's now part of the induction system?.
Thats a good point Gerry, I haven't holed mine yet but there is some rock damage to the fins etc.
JC
rick130
17th July 2010, 08:54 PM
Yes, but another issue for a 4be, is a stick through the front, rendering damage to the intercooler, in a WTA, the intercooler ceases to operate. No great issue. How would one repair a damaged standard intercooler in the bush, it's now part of the induction system?.
Thats a good point Gerry, I haven't holed mine yet but there is some rock damage to the fins etc.
JC
While there is potential for anything to happen, who has actually heard of a Tdi or TD5 for that matter being stopped with a holed I/C ?
(and little tubes of two pack epoxy should be in everyone's toolbox anyway when venturing away from home)
And what's to stop using a top mount air to air unit ?
Nice short inlet tract for less lag/better response, it'd be equal to a water cooled one in that regard. {edit} and I should've added i hate top mounts, but that's another story...{/edit}
From my backside observations with a TD42T Patrol without an I/C (and remembering the Patrol uses very low boost, only something like 7-9PSI) the response (and power) is great on a cool day, but when the ambient goes past around 32*C, geez you wish you had an I/C hanging off the front somewhere.
It gets to a point where the engine almost stalls going over one little railway bridge here in summer, I have to drop back to first gear, it just dies in the arse, and yet it idles over it with power to spare in the cooler weather in second, the difference is that dramatic.
1103.9TDI
17th July 2010, 09:09 PM
While there is potential for anything to happen, who has actually heard of a Tdi or TD5 for that matter being stopped with a holed I/C ?
Just another reason to drive an Isuzu, Rick.
[/QUOTE](and little tubes of two pack epoxy should be in everyone's toolbox anyway when venturing away from home)[/QUOTE]
Devil's advocate, but the damage may require a re-route of the induction supply.
[/QUOTE]And what's to stop using a top mount air to air unit ?
Nice short inlet tract for less lag/better response, it'd be equal to a water cooled one in that regard. {edit} and I should've added i hate top mounts, but that's another story...{/edit}[/QUOTE]
Your edits probably say enough about top mounts, but also nowhere near as efficient as either front mount.
Psimpson7
17th July 2010, 09:45 PM
The argument about the positioning seems almost totally irrelevant really... Pretty sure there is a radiator at the front and that is equally likely to suffer damage, and would be even more likely to stop you.
rick130
17th July 2010, 09:45 PM
Just another reason to drive an Isuzu, Rick.
[snip]
I know, I know.....
1103.9TDI
17th July 2010, 10:00 PM
The argument about the positioning seems almost totally irrelevant really... Pretty sure there is a radiator at the front and that is equally likely to suffer damage, and would be even more likely to stop you.
Done a few radiator fixes out bush, blocking tubes, tea leaves, eggs, pepper, aft-market stuff, it all works. Not to sure about an intercooler though, did you see the question?.
'How would one repair a damaged standard intercooler in the bush, it's now part of the induction system?.'
Chewing gum might work:D.
Psimpson7
17th July 2010, 10:09 PM
I would rather fix a smased intercooler than a smashed radiator!
I've previously smashed a rad too and just packed it with Silicone to get home, which it did.
With an intercooler, it would be about 20x easier I reckon! Silicone would work no worries
You are making an issue out of nothing!!:)
1103.9TDI
17th July 2010, 10:18 PM
Obviously you speak from experience, tell us about it.
Blknight.aus
17th July 2010, 11:22 PM
holed intercoolers (of the air-air variety) you can fix with most of the same external repair methods you use for a holed radiator obviously the stuff that you can dose the cooling system with wont work.
I usually use the tube fold method if its holed via a stake if its just a crack that'll get some careful attention with a pin file and the epoxy.
rar110
18th July 2010, 07:34 AM
I thought one of the biggest risks with wta intercoolers was if it stopped working for some reason the motor became way over fueled. Although I would think it would be ok if the egts were watched carefully.
1103.9TDI
18th July 2010, 07:36 AM
I guess the point is, the vehicle is unable to continue and it's not a five minute fix. But with a WTA, who cares, just turn off the pump and keep driving.
1103.9TDI
18th July 2010, 07:38 AM
I thought one of the biggest risks with wta intercoolers was if it stopped working for some reason the motor became way over fueled. Although I would think it would be ok if the egts were watched carefully.
Depends on how the fuelling is setup, the same would apply to a standard intercooler, they both do a similar job.
Disco Inferno
18th July 2010, 07:51 AM
My biggest concern about WTA intercoolers is internal leakage where the water leaks into the inlet but thats a quality issue.
Cheers
Rangier Rover
18th July 2010, 08:12 AM
I guess the point is, the vehicle is unable to continue and it's not a five minute fix. But with a WTA, who cares, just turn off the pump and keep driving.
I have looked into a set up like yours a wile back..... Very expensive:eek:
Tell me this, is it really that good. How much difference did it make compared to Air to Air or no intercooler?
I'm a little sceptical as no one has any data to back up any claims. I need to drive a few intercooled 4BD1's and a WTA to make my own mine up right;) Who else is running WTA here?
Mine suffers a little at hwy speeds and egts will get up to 600 post turbo wile towing on long hard hills. Only running 8 to 10 psi boost. I seem to notice a small flat spot at 2800 RPM? Always has done this.:confused:
Otherwise goes very well. Very responsive and plenty of poke for off road other than the short fall of max RPMs 3200.
Tony.
Dougal
18th July 2010, 08:25 AM
Otherwise goes very well. Very responsive and plenty of poke for off road other than the short fall of max RPMs 3200.
Tony.
The rev limiter is just a screw, adjusted in the same manner as the idle speed. Mine being a JDM truck motor revs to around 3600, Randy with his twin turbo 4BD1 in the states was running it to around 5,000rpm.
I made my own water/air system years ago using 2.5m of 3/8" copper pipe inside a sleeved intake pipe, a washing machine pump and a truck cabin radiator out the front. It worked a little, but only dropped temps by 15 degrees and when the pump wore out I gave up on it.
I have a subaru electric intercooler pump and a large water/air intercooler lying aroudn that I bought about 4 years ago now and still haven't fitted it or plumbed it up.
One day.:angel:
rick130
18th July 2010, 08:33 AM
Umm, if we are worried about holing an I/C, maybe ditch the turbo too, just one more thing to wrong ;)
Bugger it, doesn't Deutz still make air cooled diesels ? Fixes that niggly radiator and "what coolant do I use" problem too :angel:
:D
rick130
18th July 2010, 08:39 AM
Anyway, back to Tony's original Q.
The response issue is a question of how big a column of air you need to get moving when the loud pedal is pressed at idle/low revs.
In a stock 4BD1T, just like our TD42T, it's really short, just up and over the rocker cover.
A top mount I/C, water or air has a similarly short column, although it will be a bit larger due to the slightly greater internal volume, so response should be very similar.
Any front mount, regardless of cooling medium will have a greater response time due to the much larger column/volume/mass and therefore inertia of the air involved.
Bigbjorn
18th July 2010, 08:45 AM
Umm, if we are worried about holing an I/C, maybe ditch the turbo too, just one more thing to wrong ;)
Bugger it, doesn't Deutz still make air cooled diesels ? Fixes that niggly radiator and "what coolant do I use" problem too :angel:
:D
My sentiments exactly. No substitute for cubic inches. Bung in a 5-6 litre naturally aspirated engine with mechanical injection. The Detroit Diesel unit injection system is a model of reliability, simplicity, and low cost overhaul. For expedition or remote area vehicles as many points of possible failure as can be thought of need to be eliminated. The only electronic systems that should be on a remote area vehicle are ones that do not interfere with the vehicles ability to proceed.
1103.9TDI
18th July 2010, 08:54 AM
I have looked into a set up like yours a wile back..... Very expensive:eek:
Tell me this, is it really that good. How much difference did it make compared to Air to Air or no intercooler?
I'm a little sceptical as no one has any data to back up any claims. I need to drive a few intercooled 4BD1's and a WTA to make my own mine up right;) Who else is running WTA here?
Mine suffers a little at hwy speeds and egts will get up to 600 post turbo wile towing on long hard hills. Only running 8 to 10 psi boost. I seem to notice a small flat spot at 2800 RPM? Always has done this.:confused:
Otherwise goes very well. Very responsive and plenty of poke for off road other than the short fall of max RPMs 3200.
Tony.
I'm hoping to be able to get some figures shortly, by conducting a Dyno run, when I get some free time. It should be easy to test, just switch off the water pump, let the heat build up to a normal operating temperature, and give it a run. Then run it with the water pump on.
I have my fuel setting fairly low, but a tweak up from standard ie half turn. At OAT 27'c; on a long hard hill, EGT post turbo reaches no higher than 425'c at 12PSI.
rick130
18th July 2010, 09:02 AM
My sentiments exactly. No substitute for cubic inches. Bung in a 5-6 litre naturally aspirated engine with mechanical injection. The Detroit Diesel unit injection system is a model of reliability, simplicity, and low cost overhaul.
[snip]
:lol2: I knew you wouldn't be able to resist that post, but you did catch me out how quickly you responded Brian. :D
Blknight.aus
18th July 2010, 09:15 AM
Umm, if we are worried about holing an I/C, maybe ditch the turbo too, just one more thing to wrong ;)
Bugger it, doesn't Deutz still make air cooled diesels ? Fixes that niggly radiator and "what coolant do I use" problem too :angel:
:D
dont laugh.. Im already working it up... the deutz 6 pot aircooled will fit in the engine bay of the deefer and the series......
(theres some other companies making them as well)
some birdie told me theres and old 2 stroke aircooled diesel engine around which Im trying to find some info on.
clean32
18th July 2010, 10:59 AM
dont laugh.. Im already working it up... the deutz 6 pot aircooled will fit in the engine bay of the deefer and the series......
(theres some other companies making them as well)
some birdie told me theres and old 2 stroke aircooled diesel engine around which Im trying to find some info on.
an old 6 pot Linde would do the trick, could even fitt up the hydrostatic traz
rar110
19th July 2010, 07:09 PM
Turbo no intercooler my egt reaches 450 degrees post turbo on the highway unladen. Don't know boost level.
rovercare
20th July 2010, 07:04 PM
Yep, mine is laggier then Tony's, but after stripping my RR the last few days I found 2 large holes in my intercooler:eek: goes to show, anything that can rub will!!
I'd also be very interested in before and after results:)
1103.9TDI
20th July 2010, 11:09 PM
Yep, mine is laggier then Tony's, but after stripping my RR the last few days I found 2 large holes in my intercooler:eek: goes to show, anything that can rub will!!
I'd also be very interested in before and after results:)
'anything that can rub will!!'
Wish my missus had that motto more often:D:D, s'pose if you were running fluid in it, you would've picked up the leak?, whatta 'bout the boost guage?.
ASA I can arrange it, results won't be b4 and after, just off and on:D.
Dougal
21st July 2010, 06:36 AM
Yep, mine is laggier then Tony's, but after stripping my RR the last few days I found 2 large holes in my intercooler:eek: goes to show, anything that can rub will!!
I'd also be very interested in before and after results:)
On the bright side, air will be leaving those holes at such a speed that nothing else will get in.:D
lambrover
22nd July 2010, 09:31 AM
Mine suffers a little at hwy speeds and egts will get up to 600 post turbo wile towing on long hard hills. Only running 8 to 10 psi boost. I seem to notice a small flat spot at 2800 RPM? Always has done this.:confused:
Otherwise goes very well. Very responsive and plenty of poke for off road other than the short fall of max RPMs 3200.
Tony.
I adjusted my boost and that dropped my egt's, I am running 15 psi now on cold mornings it hits 17 psi it loves it but the egt's don't get as high under acceleration
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 05:40 PM
'anything that can rub will!!'
Wish my missus had that motto more often:D:D, s'pose if you were running fluid in it, you would've picked up the leak?, whatta 'bout the boost guage?.
ASA I can arrange it, results won't be b4 and after, just off and on:D.
Most definately, reasonable size holes, no lack of boost, remained a solid 17psi for the last 40,000kms
justinc
22nd July 2010, 07:32 PM
Hey Matt, cast your memory back, what did you think of my 'lag' etc when you drove mine? I was running lower gearing at that stage, but the set up is essentially the same.
JC
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 07:45 PM
Hey Matt, cast your memory back, what did you think of my 'lag' etc when you drove mine? I was running lower gearing at that stage, but the set up is essentially the same.
JC
Hmm, to long ago to be honest and far to many rangies driven since then:(
I know it did convert me:D
Mine wasn't laggy it all, but was running considerably more fuel and boost than Tony's and driving his made me realise mine had lag, which you wouldn't by just driving mine....make sense?:eek:
Mine is now a chassis and diff's sitting in the shed and will be fully stripped as of tomorrow:BigCry:
justinc
22nd July 2010, 07:52 PM
Ahh, well i was just interested because recently driving a VNT Tdi auto D1 I reckon my installation is quite close in the lack of lag stakes. I would love a VNT 4BD1 though...pity my turbo is still in perfect working order...:(
JC
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 07:59 PM
Ahh, well i was just interested because recently driving a VNT Tdi auto D1 I reckon my installation is quite close in the lack of lag stakes. I would love a VNT 4BD1 though...pity my turbo is still in perfect working order...:(
JC
Will be interesting to see how the VNT works, whether its me or Vern that finish first we'll see, he's got far less to do.....but I don't have a new house built, wife and kids either:D
Rangier Rover
22nd July 2010, 08:33 PM
VNT and air water would be nice:cool:
I've decided to hold off Air to Air till I drive one of yours first. I don't want any lag:( Why I like the 4BD1 so much with what I do here.
Drove a NA 4BE1 3.6ltr today. What a slug:eek: Bloody hard work to get it moving. My 4BD1T would eat it with over one ton on the tray and a car trailer behind. And that no exaggeration either:eek: Just looked up the 4BE1 specs.... 3.6, 74 kw and 242 mn The NA 4BD1 is only 66 kw and 245 MN.
4BDIT around 100 kw and 330 in round numbers.
What a difference to drive though:cool:
Vern
22nd July 2010, 08:36 PM
Will be interesting to see how the VNT works, whether its me or Vern that finish first we'll see, he's got far less to do.....but I don't have a new house built, wife and kids either:D
The race is on:D
You'll win:(
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 08:53 PM
The race is on:D
You'll win:(
Oh well, if I finish mine, we'll have more time to play with yours:D
Vern
22nd July 2010, 08:58 PM
Did a bit more tonight, radiators ready to go in, time to sort the intercooler:)
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 09:01 PM
Did a bit more tonight, radiators ready to go in, time to sort the intercooler:)
Flash! not far to go:D
justinc
22nd July 2010, 09:03 PM
VNT and air water would be nice:cool:
I've decided to hold off Air to Air till I drive one of yours first. I don't want any lag:( Why I like the 4BD1 so much with what I do here.
Drove a NA 4BE1 3.6ltr today. What a slug:eek: Bloody hard work to get it moving. My 4BD1T would eat it with over one ton on the tray and a car trailer behind. And that no exaggeration either:eek: Just looked up the 4BE1 specs.... 3.6, 74 kw and 242 mn The NA 4BD1 is only 66 kw and 245 MN.
4BDIT around 100 kw and 330 in round numbers.
What a difference to drive though:cool:
Tony, Mine has almost zero lag. I'm not going to rush out and swap to a VNT set up as I can do plenty of damage without that extra bottom end. Seriously, a pity you aren't closer as the proof is in the drive:twisted:
JC
Rangier Rover
22nd July 2010, 09:13 PM
Bit long away, my good wife and kids want to travel Tasmania next October.:) Thinking a two week trip via the high country.:cool:
All the good 4BD1's are so far away:( Mine is a one off around here, not that I'd call it good. I just like it:D
Tony
rovercare
22nd July 2010, 09:16 PM
Bit long away, my good wife and kids want to travel Tasmania next October.:) Thinking a two week trip via the high country.:cool:
All the good 4BD1's are so far away:( Mine is a one off around here, not that I'd call it good. I just like it:D
Tony
You'll need 2 weeks just for the high country and a month for Tas:D
justinc
22nd July 2010, 09:24 PM
Bit long away, my good wife and kids want to travel Tasmania next October.:) Thinking a two week trip via the high country.:cool:
All the good 4BD1's are so far away:( Mine is a one off around here, not that I'd call it good. I just like it:D
Tony
You'd be more than welcome to drop by and take her for a spin, and of course say hi!!:)
I'll PM contact details.
JC
Rangier Rover
22nd July 2010, 09:46 PM
You'll need 2 weeks just for the high country and a month for Tas:D
May have to sneak anothery in between:D
Dougal
23rd July 2010, 06:45 AM
Tony, Mine has almost zero lag. I'm not going to rush out and swap to a VNT set up as I can do plenty of damage without that extra bottom end. Seriously, a pity you aren't closer as the proof is in the drive:twisted:
JC
Mine also has no lag worth worrying about. As shown in that video it builds boost fast and from almost idle.
However, I want VNT to give that same low end but without choking off the topend.
I've even owned the VNT turbo (workshop ornament) for about 3 years, it keeps my water/air intercooler company in the box.:(
DRanged
23rd July 2010, 03:10 PM
Same here Dougal mine has zero lag but does just starve a little at the top end of the rev range. I was going the twin turbo route but have lost interest. I just enjoy driving it for now.
Justin
Rangier Rover
23rd July 2010, 09:50 PM
Do you recon this would do anything? Maybe a tad too small.
Subaru intercooler - eBay Intercoolers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Jul-10 19:56:18 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-intercooler-/250667920274?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5cf8eb92)
Shouldn't cause any lag at all.
rick130
23rd July 2010, 09:59 PM
Did John/Bush65 ever get his BW compound turbo up and running ?
Dougal
24th July 2010, 10:36 AM
Do you recon this would do anything? Maybe a tad too small.
Subaru intercooler - eBay Intercoolers, Performance Parts, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Jul-10 19:56:18 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/Subaru-intercooler-/250667920274?cmd=ViewItem&pt=AU_Car_Parts_Accessories&hash=item3a5cf8eb92)
Shouldn't cause any lag at all.
I looked long and hard at them but couldn't find a nice way to make it fit. The electric water pumps for those subaru systems are good for any air/water system.
justinc
24th July 2010, 03:42 PM
Mine also has no lag worth worrying about. As shown in that video it builds boost fast and from almost idle.
However, I want VNT to give that same low end but without choking off the topend.
I've even owned the VNT turbo (workshop ornament) for about 3 years, it keeps my water/air intercooler company in the box.:(
In that vid, mine isn't much slower to build up boost but your lower gearing is a plus in that dept.
I agree in theory about the top end, BUT I can still get to the fuel governor in 4th gear, approx 145Km/h. It gets there quite quickly too:eek:, so I am quite happy with its all round performance really.
And I sympathise with 'workshop ornament' staus:(. I have the same problem with aux water tanks, twin shock set up, twin spare carrier parts, etc etc. ...One day....:(:D
JC
Dougal
24th July 2010, 03:52 PM
In that vid, mine isn't much slower to build up boost but your lower gearing is a plus in that dept.
I agree in theory about the top end, BUT I can still get to the fuel governor in 4th gear, approx 145Km/h. It gets there quite quickly too:eek:, so I am quite happy with its all round performance really.
And I sympathise with 'workshop ornament' staus:(. I have the same problem with aux water tanks, twin shock set up, twin spare carrier parts, etc etc. ...One day....:(:D
JC
When I had the 1.2 LT230 mine would hit the governer at about 145. Now with the 1:1 there's nowhere I'm willing to try it.
I run an exhaust manifold pressure gauge everytime I change something. This little T25 I run can deliver more boost than backpressure below 2000rpm, but over that the combination of small exhaust and small turbo means backpressure climbs fast.
A bigger turbo will shift that crossover point higher up the rev range.
I actually have a mostly built T25/T28 combo sitting on my workshop bench. Basically a T25 with a 0.64 A/R exhaust housing (currently 0.49) and a 60mm T28 compressor wheel (currently 51.3mm). I just need to bore out a spare T25 compressor housing to fit the 60mm wheel and it will be a direct bolt in swap for my current turbo.
Alas, too many things to do and not enough time or money to get them all done. After passing 11 in a row 6 monthly safety checks (WOF) at private garages, I'm taking the rangie to an official testing station on wednesday. Wish me luck.:(
justinc
24th July 2010, 03:58 PM
When I had the 1.2 LT230 mine would hit the governer at about 145. Now with the 1:1 there's nowhere I'm willing to try it.
I run an exhaust manifold pressure gauge everytime I change something. This little T25 I run can deliver more boost than backpressure below 2000rpm, but over that the combination of small exhaust and small turbo means backpressure climbs fast.
A bigger turbo will shift that crossover point higher up the rev range.
I actually have a mostly built T25/T28 combo sitting on my workshop bench. Basically a T25 with a 0.64 A/R exhaust housing (currently 0.49) and a 60mm T28 compressor wheel (currently 51.3mm). I just need to bore out a spare T25 compressor housing to fit the 60mm wheel and it will be a direct bolt in swap for my current turbo.
Alas, too many things to do and not enough time or money to get them all done. After passing 11 in a row 6 monthly safety checks (WOF) at private garages, I'm taking the rangie to an official testing station on wednesday. Wish me luck.:(
I agree with gearing, with 1:1 high range and your 5th gear you could easily go TOO fast:eek:
Good luck at the inspection:) I didn't know you guys had 6monthly safety inspections! It'd put a few vehicles off the road down here I reckon. Good thing too. I constantly shudder at the vehicles I see on Tasmanian roads:mad::mad:
JC
Barefoot Dave
24th July 2010, 04:51 PM
Has anyone done any work with Water injection on diesels? Have a little experience in water/ meth injection on petrol. What diffence does the added SCR make.
What nobody has mentioned re I/C is the resultant heat-soak through-out the whole system and effects on longevity.
Dave.
Dougal
24th July 2010, 07:58 PM
Has anyone done any work with Water injection on diesels? Have a little experience in water/ meth injection on petrol. What diffence does the added SCR make.
What nobody has mentioned re I/C is the resultant heat-soak through-out the whole system and effects on longevity.
Dave.
What are you worried about regarding heat-soak? I wouldn't consider it a longevity concern, more a short term performance reduction.
Rangier Rover
5th February 2011, 09:05 AM
Since I need water injection for my supercharged rangie as not cost effective to intercool I may as well try it in the 4BD1T. Simply a 150psi 12v pump, water shut off solenoid, 30mic jets,variable pressure controller + relays tank etc.
I actually want to run a more complex set up on a new CRD I have here too.
Water injection was very popular a few years back but now larger intercoolers and water spray over intercooler is more common.
We'll see how it goes with a variable boost controller, more fuel etc. Should be able to run 26psi with no intercooler if set up correctly. May use some metho as well:D
Dougal
5th February 2011, 10:35 AM
The problem is your 4BD1T will be on boost almost 100% of the time it's driven, so the amount of water you need to carry will be truely astounding.
Will you have an over-ride to reduce fuelling (and EGT's) for those times when your water runs out? Methanol can pre-ignite in a diesel.
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