anyone want to identify this ??

[NiteMare]

only my second post (newbie here) but i've introduced myself where i should and posted a bit about myself, so to get to the point ...

i've just bought a Series 2a 88" that i found in a field (all explained in my intro post) it sits on a combat chassis numbered 24320653 H

any info gratefully received

45 p/bucket pictures to go thru

Chalkie my 88inch 2a pictures by NiteMare_08 - Photobucket (http://s259.photobucket.com/albums/hh311/NiteMare_08/Chalkie%20my%2088inch%202a/'start=0)

and one little taster

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/528.jpg

Cheers
Pete

[isuzutoo-eh]

Its a bit of a bitsa by appearance
the dash looks military 2a, with blackout lights etc. so it is probably a GS.
If so, tub is most likely original, with passenger side fuel tank filler and light protector bathtubs
The front bodywork is series 3, with a deluxe bonnet. The door hinges are series 3 onwards as well.
One of the REMLRites will probably check chassis number for you and see if it was a service unit.

[d@rk51d3]

Welcome aboard. Must have missed your intro.

It's definitely a strange beast you have there. original 2a rear, with series 3 front half. It does appear to be one of ours from the looks of it, however the chassis is not on record - that I could find.

Could have been a post service repair.


EDIT.

re-scanning your piccies. Looks like she's got most of the "fruit".

extended headlight dip switch, Vent screens, dash bits, blackout light, military rear x-member, spring hangers, fuel tanks with brass dipsticks, "D" rings on front bar, fuel tank switchover valve.............

Strange location for the Nato socket - on the tub. more in line with the series 2, not the 2a. (though you can see where it was, just below on the x-member)

All she needs is the cutaway front guards with tool brackets, and radiator panel, and maybe a change of the door hinges and bonnet, and you're pretty much there.
Congratulations, she's a beauty. :cool:

[JDNSW]

As indicated, it looks like a military 2a (post 1967), with civilian guards, bonnet and cab - and Series 3 door hinges and grille, probably all off the same donor.

A chassis number would be useful.

Gearlever broken off - quite common.

John

[d@rk51d3]

Chassis# 24320653H ;)

Couldn't find it in the ARN's.

[101RRS]

If this is in the UK - isn't it more likely to be UK military rather than Aust military hence not listing in out ARNs etc.

Garry

[d@rk51d3]

He indicated in his other thread that it's supposed to be ex Aus.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/introductions/109426-hi-there-englishman-calling.html

[Lotz-A-Landies]

Firstly I think that most of the raised suspension 88 in the late SIIa were RAAF rather than Army so we won't find it in the REMLR ARN lists. The vehicle as mentioned above does appear to be the real thing, but RAAF 88 GS like WileE's not Army.

Secondly AFAIK I think you will find that UK MoD had standard suspension on their 88 and 109. The raised suspension models were all the 1 Ton and TACR vehicles.

The 243 prefix is CKD RHD 88 petrol, so has to be Aus, South Africa, Iran etc not UK build. I can't find a record of 243 20653H in the Grenville Books. However the very next vehicle went to a dealer Amos Smith and Sons and the rest of the batch went to the Electricity Commission of NSW. The 243 20***H were all dispatched between September 1971 and march 1972.

The best thing would be to message Ian http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/wilee.html and see if his 88 is a close match to #20653H

Someone needs to find a set of cut mudguards "wings" and brushguard for this vehicle to make it correct.

Hope this helps.

Diana

[NiteMare]

Firstly I think that most of the raised suspension 88 in the late SIIa were RAAF rather than Army so we won't find it in the REMLR ARN lists. The vehicle as mentioned above does appear to be the real thing, but RAAF 88 GS like WileE's not Army.

Secondly AFAIK I think you will find that UK MoD had standard suspension on their 88 and 109. The raised suspension models were all the 1 Ton and TACR vehicles.

The 243 prefix is CKD RHD 88 petrol, so has to be Aus, South Africa, Iran etc not UK build. I can't find a record of 243 20653H in the Grenville Books. However the very next vehicle went to a dealer Amos Smith and Sons and the rest of the batch went to the Electricity Commission of NSW. The 243 20***H were all dispatched between September 1971 and march 1972.

The best thing would be to message Ian http://www.aulro.com/afvb/members/wilee.html and see if his 88 is a close match to #20653H

Someone needs to find a set of cut mudguards "wings" and brushguard for this vehicle to make it correct.

Hope this helps.

Diana

hmm that's all pretty interesting and more or less defines the build date nice and solidly for me (allows me "historic vehicle" status with no Vehicle Excise Duty to pay :) )

you mention there the RAAF took more of them towards the end of the 2a production period than the army, would you have any links i could search thru ?

i believe you are correct about the U.K. MoD vehicles having standard suspension except on the 1 ton and tacr models (i'm not sure what tacr is) but can't confirm for sure as i know very little about landrovers (under 2 years of leafsprung landrovering)

i've messaged Ian asking for his help and pointing him to this thread, Thanks for the pointer :)

brushguards and "cut" wings etc' are tempting and would probably put this landy back to correct, but that puts me in a bit of a situation as i am one of those folks that like "patina", i love the appearance of this motor as it is with all it's battle scars, wear and visible history....

if i got the correct wings, brushguard and any other bits that are missing i'd have to consider painting and panel straightening/replacing which before you know it would be giving me a "show car" with all it's history hidden/lost

i'm more inclined to do the necessary repairs to the chassis/brakes/steering etc to get it thru it's roadworthyness test (MoT) and use/show it as it is with all the previous owners bodges/fixs (maybe coat it with a satin clear coat just to keep the rust at bay and lock the patina in)

anyway my tastes/preferences don't really matter at the moment, i'm primarily after as much as possible information as to where it was likey to have been dispatched to/where it's been and it's original purpose (the lad i bought it off is going to sort me out it's previous owners name and contact number with a little luck)

Thanks all [thumbsupbig]

please keep the information/links coming :)

[NiteMare]

hmm this is looking to be a "very" rare motor over here, i've just had a response on the Series 2 club forum that indicates they're "almost" unheard of on this side of the planet...

if anyone wants a peek at the thread here's a link (public forum section)

my "new" acquisition "Chalkie" (http://www.series2club.info/forum/index.php'topic=36813.new#new)


(i'm all excited now :D )

[scrambler]

hmm this is looking to be a "very" rare motor over here, i've just had a response on the Series 2 club forum that indicates they're "almost" unheard of on this side of the planet...

if anyone wants a peek at the thread here's a link (public forum section)

my "new" acquisition "Chalkie" (http://www.series2club.info/forum/index.php'topic=36813.new#new)


(i'm all excited now :D )
Even on our side of the world they are not common. As mentioned, the Army stopped ordering SWB at around this time, though a small number of Series 3 SWB have been found, so its not the very last Australian military 88".

As you have found, some of the later vehicles have the lights in the guards. The simplest restoration (once you get your "proof of age" examination) would be to have the front guards cut appropriately and swap the hinges for the correct 2a style. Then you would keep the "patina" AND have a visually correct vehicle. Plus you get to add your own layer to its history!

Still, parts for these are relatively easy to come by in Australia and you would have no trouble sourcing appropriate panels if you were prepared to pay shipping. Brush guard pattern is available through REMLR,or there are any number of them here, esp as you would want the later style. They were fitted to Series III military Land Rovers until the early 1980's.

[Lotz-A-Landies]

hmm that's all pretty interesting and more or less defines the build date nice and solidly for me (allows me "historic vehicle" status with no Vehicle Excise Duty to pay :) )

you mention there the RAAF took more of them towards the end of the 2a production period than the army, would you have any links i could search thru ?

<snip>The RAAF were still getting 88" Land Rovers in the late SIIa period while almost all the Army vehicles were 109" by that time.

Essentially the RAAF vehicles were the same configuration and olive drab colour scheme as the Army vehicles so the The Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers. Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. (http://remlr.com/) site is a great resource. However there are very few of the wide headlamp models with cut mudguards that I can find just now. Although given a few days I can get some photos of a couple of examples as they stand now.

It seems that many of the RAAF 88" were used by the RAAF service police for airfield security purposes so were frequently FFR models and interestingly they had military data plates that indicated they were 109" Fitted For Radio but had the correct 88" chassis number slamped in.

You could modify the current mudguards to present the "cut". They were basically rolled edges, but on the wide headlamp models the fronts were longer starting at the bottom of the pressed recess around the 3 lamps.

WileE should have some good photos.

Diana

[WileE]

There are photos of my Late 2A 88" on REMLR.
NiteMare's Land Rover is very similar to mine in many respects and I would tend to think it is from the same batch of vehicles. The chassis number on mine is +500 later than this one.
Apart from the obvious changes that have been made to Nitemares Land Rover, there a couple of minor differences between the two;
The rear cross member on mine has no hole in it, NiteMare's has the small hole in common with all Aust Army Series 2A's
Mine is fitted with a a single gauge in the blackout light switch panel, an electronic oil pressure gauge.
The engine fitted in mine (which appears to be original) has a 2415####A number which is apparantly a high(er) compression version of the standard 2.25L petrol motor.
Mine was the only one that we knew about until this one has turned up and it's very surprising that it's in the UK.
Good find.
Ian

[Lotz-A-Landies]

<snip>
Mine was the only one that we knew about until this one has turned up and it's very surprising that it's in the UK.
Good find.
IanDidn't Black Bill also have one untill he was "T" boned at an intersection writing the chassis off?

BTW if you want to find WileE's shed it is at: http://remlr.com/sheds/ipshedmore.html

[NiteMare]

ok i'm bumping this thread back up as it looks like i'll be starting in on getting this motor roadworthy and registered (finally :eek: ), i've been in touch with our V.R.O. and he's given me the go-ahead to start work :D

i'll not be knocking out any dings/dents/bruises just doing the essentials to it to get it legally on the road which means, cutting/grinding/welding, brakes and steering, lights and general electrics (this'll probably be the first bit as i've not heard the engine run yet)

but one of the first things i'd like if someone could help me is some high definition photos of the missing military plates that were at one time in the cab (i can give my email address in pm if it helps), obviously your plates would have your chassis number etc' on them but i might be able to get the plate replicated and stamped with my own chassis number via the Series2 Club V.R.O. (Vehicle Registrations Officer) which even if it didn't have any "contract" details on it would help with it's authenticity as and when i eventually/maybe restore it (i already have sticks and tilt, easy bits to sort :D) and one or two fuel tanks laying about that hopefully will hold fuel/petrol

progress WILL be slow as we're short on daylight hours at present plus i now have full-time employment so HAVE to get up in the mornings but here's to actually beginning :eek: :D

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You really should look at WileE's shed. ( http://remlr.com/sheds/ipshedmore.html )

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/624.jpg

You also need the servicing/lubrication plate. (this one is a 109")
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/625.jpg

These are usually fitted on the firewall (bulkhead to you'se Brits) in front of the passenger, or on the side of the seat box next to the passenger.

This is the Australian Compliance Plate. Not usually painted over, but if yours is 500 earlier it may not have a compliance plate which only started in 1972.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/626.jpg

The other plates on the firewall in front of the gearstick are the same as the regular SIIa 88" plates fitted to every other civilian and military Land Rover.

You can see the usual layout here:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2013/12/627.jpg

For your vehicle the ID plates should state:
Nomenclature: TRUCK, UTILITY, 1/4 TON, G.S.
(2nd line) . LAND-ROVER SERIES 2A 88 INCH WB
Census No.: 6005

[NiteMare]

that was me being stupid and forgetful, i have now looked at WileEs pictures and remember most of them from when i initially started this thread

Thanks Diana [thumbsupbig]

[Lotz-A-Landies]

You may be able to acquire the servicing and lubrication plate second hand from ebay or by a wanted ad here on AULRO or over at REMLR. There is also the tyre wear plate that runs across the top of the dash that you'll want.

[NiteMare]

ok then a little update

since buying this motor it's done very little but sit around collecting algae although i have taken it to two shows on a trailer, the first was the Landrover Max show at Stoneleigh not long after i first bought him and the second was the recent Classic Car show at the NEC, he was then spotted on the Series2 Club stand by a few people who have given me encouragement (along with me finally managing to get a regular job to finance my life) to get on with him

so, a couple of weeks ago i went out to where he was parked, pulled the old long dead battery off and dropped a not quite so dead battery on, cleaned the points and checked the oil level, stuck a screwdriver in the ignition and turned it (no smoke escaped) then turned it to get the starter churning, a few seconds later and the oil light went out (no fuel supply attached) so it was out with the EasyStart and a couple of gentle shots were squirted down the carb, twist the screwdriver again and the engine just churned away, no cough no bang nothing :(

so had another little look at the electrics and decided to do a temporary ignition wire-up, another little squirt of EasyStart twist the screwdriver and we immediately had a cough and splutter :D tried that a couple more times until we had it run for 2 or 3 seconds on EasyStart and then grabbed a fuel can with half a gallon of fuel in it, pulled the fuel feed pipe up and stuffed it in the can, a few twitches of the lever on the fuel pump, one squirt of EasyStart and he fired straight up :banana::banana::banana:

ran him for maybe a minute or two and then switched off (no coolant) the oil pressure was a little low for my liking at 25psi according to the guage with no real hint it was going to get much/any better (who cares, it runs lol)

so this weekend i got a little more time to get out there, i've taken the floor plates and tunnel out, fitted a replacement gearstick and dug out the gearbox number 25504782 F, i'm positive this is the original gearbox and i suspect it "might" be one of the "rare" all-synchro boxes, it selects all gears without the engine running so that might be a good sign

i've also removed both pedal boxes and the clutch slave to replace all cylinders, the top of the footwell still has a few more years in it but it'll need a small patching at the lower inner edge as it's rotted under the dipswitch cabling

i also removed the offside wheel and took the drum off (big copper mallet to remove) and i reckon the drum is salvageable, rather than refit the dinky 6.00x16 i have temporarily fitted the correct size (worn thin) wheel and tyre, it looks so much better with 7.50 tyres :D

anyway here's my first "spanners" photo of this motor taken as i was packing up just before dark
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/01/628.jpg

[NiteMare]

finally got chance to do a little more work on this one :eek:

ok done a little bit today, fitted new mastercylinders to both pedal boxes and made sure the pivots were both well lubed and also spent a little time copper ease'ing all the bolt threads before remounting the boxes, reconnected all the pipework and reservoir https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/751.jpg just need to get a flexi and slave for the clutch

gotta find some brake fluid to ensure the seals stay supple (i've half a gallon somewhere) and then drag him out of his corner to outside my garage where i can work at leisure

whilst i was out there i decided to take the opportunity to reconnect the rear propshaft that i disconnected when i dragged him home on my dolly and then realised it's got wide angle yokes which i'll guess is to allow for the chassis lift, while laying on my back i got a little nosey as the rear shocks look huge and the springs themselves look a little odd so i counted the leaves ALL eight of them, it's not surprising they look in good condition they're heavy duty springs https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/752.jpg i'll guess it's going to be like riding a girder https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2014/04/753.jpg

just a little step but it's one more taken :D

i've been and bought a few odds and sods to encourage me plus i've had a couple of friends donate odds and sods to help it along, fingers crossed i'll get enough time this year to get it properly mobile, registered and out being shown off this year

[NiteMare]

finally dragged him off the grass/weeds and onto tarmac outside my garage yesterday to help encourage me to get on with it (i'm also repairing/rebuilding someones bulkhead at the moment)

so i've had three wheels and drums off so far to make sure they're removable before commiting to replacing all the brake components and giving the drums a light skim, everything has been sprayed with WD40 or similar to soak in and the studs and mating faces have been treated to a coat of copper ease, plus i've painted a petrol/oil mix over the springs to start the rust softening process (this was all yesterday)

today i decided to have a little clean up after i got bored of bulkhead repairs so i got the broom, screwdriver and airline out to clear all the mud, leafs and broken glass out of it and assorted areas that i could easily reach/poke at underneath

i then replaced one broken sidelight (still needs connecting) and "slightly" straightened the drivers door (i'm keeping the beat up/abused look for a while) and lubed the catch to make it easier to shut, closes nicely now :D

finally i took the dash off to see how the wiring looked and apart from one single throw switch missing it all looks good in there :) just gotta see if i have a usable switch laying about (i've no idea what this switch will turn on yet but suspect it'll be lights or heater fan)

i then took off the panel that carries the "convoy lights" switch, that wasn't quite so pleasant as there appears to be about eight terminals on that with only four wires connected and four stray/loose wires sat behind it :(

so if anyone can help with the wiring picture/colours for the back of that switch it would be most appreciated

the final thing i did today (just out of curiosity) was stick a screwdriver in the ignition switch and turn it, oil and charge light lit up :eek: so i turned it a little more and the starter spun the engine :lol2: so i guess i best pull the battery off and get it on a charger as it looks like it may well be a good one which will save me buying yet another [bigrolf]

as earlier said, any help with wiring pictures/colours would be appreciated [thumbsupbig]

[NiteMare]

fitted a new clutch slave and flexi, bled it up and the clutch is free Banana

now the bloody engine won't run, fuel starvation of some sort btnghd have to chuck fuel straight down the throat to get it to start and once that's gone it dies so i still haven't driven it

i also have now found i need a new cross shaft clevis pin as one is snapped

[gromit]

Have a look here for the wiring diagram.
The Registry of Ex Military Land Rovers. Australia, New Zealand and elsewhere. (http://www.remlr.com/)

Under 'Restoration Information', 'Vehicle Wiring Diagrams' then towards the bottom of the page under 'Series 3'

Best of luck,


Colin

[NiteMare]

Thanks Gromit, a hunting i will go :)

[NiteMare]

a little more progress :arms: finally driven him :woot::woot: only in first gear and reverse but motion is motion [bigrolf]

stripped out the nearside front brake and fitted a new slave and shoes and swapped the drum for one that is less rusty and cleaned up the swivel and added ep90

then went to the offside and cleaned up the swivel, the chrome is toasted so the swivel got the oneshot treatment i then swapped the drum for one of the old ones off my bitsa but ran out of time/light for swapping slave and shoes (i'll be having the drums lightly skimmed and refitting them) plus whilst i was playing with oils i decided to dribble some into the relay so hopefully the steering will free up a little

[NiteMare]

here we go, still no brakes and a bodged/busted exhaust

http://i1074.photobucket.com/albums/w409/Anthony_Mullinex/20140504_164810.mp4

click the top, i've no idea what went wrong

[UncleHo]

G'day NightMare :)

Just dropped into this thread, and have had a look, I would suggest that this 88 is not Aust but NZ :D the giveaway is the rear trailer connections,2 of them, one would be a 4 pin (WW11 Jeep type trailer) and the other a NATO plug,I notice it has also the verticle hand throttle control on the dash, also the NZ vehicles chassis had an "H" suffix,I have/had a friend that came over from NZ and brought his ex-military 88" with him :) I assisted him to get it registered (taxed) here in Queensland and they had a little trouble with the chassis number as the Australian chassis numbers ended with "G" suffix,it also had the 2 trailer plugs.

I am aware that when the NZ military sold off their Series Landrovers both SWB and LWB (Stage 1 V8's) that a quantity went to the UK probably several dozen all up :) so the EMLRA should have some record of them,unless they were sold off as a job lot to an Africian country as often happens with UK ex-MOD vehicles.

We, Australia, sold both long and short WB series 2/2a vehicle to the Kiwis in the late 80's as our fleet was replaced by the Coil Sprung Isuzu 3.9 litre "Perentie"s which are now just being sold out in 2014.

Hope this is of some help to you,as stated else where REMLR.com will be of help to you.

cheers

[NiteMare]

Thanks UncleHo