GME TX3100 install to D4 dash

[Duck's Guts]

I'm looking to install TX3100 5W Super Compact UHF CB Radio into the centre of the D4 dash.

Intend to remove the ash/coin tray that is immediately above the Terrain Response Control & install the TX3100.
Removing the tray is easy, & the TX3100 sits in there nicely.

But now I need to remove the rails that the tray normally sit in. Anyone know how this is done?

I also need to get power and the aerial cable through the back of the ash/coin tray recess. Can this part of the dash facia be removed?

Anything that I should be wary of behind the dash facia in this part of the woods?

Thanks in advance.
Marc...

[Dirty3]

Following on from Marc's post, I have a D3 and want to install my GME unit though not as small as the TX3100, but stil a GME. I've found a spot in front of my left leg (not the best spot but it's out of the road and only a few small holes). What do others think the best place to wire into? Last vehicle was direct to battery but with all the wizardry I don't want to bugger anything up, so I wonder if there is a bank for accessories to be wired to either behind dash or under the bonnet. Any tips?

[ADMIRAL]

Hi guys, check this thread out. Sniegy has outlined the process for taking the dash apart. http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/104077-aerial-install-d3-d4-tailgate.html

Quite honestly, I am having second thoughts about even trying to put a Z type mike mount into the dash. I have mounted a remote mike ( everything is in the microphone ) Icom under the seat.

I would have a good look at your proposed locations and the practical operation of the radio once the radio is in situ. The coin tray location may look neat, but can you see it, and importantly can you see it while driving?

Sorry to be damper on your plans, but I went through this process, and ultimately decided to sell my existing UHF and buy a new remote mike version. My logic was, that overall it was less pain to locate and operate. The wireless unit can be hidden in multiple locations, and the mike can be held up in the line of vision to operate.

IMHO have another look before you jump in. ( particularly carving up the dash )

As for a power source, it is common practice for any radio feed to go direct to a battery, with a suitable fuse in the wiring. Don't feed from an accessory plug. Others are more knowledgeable in this area and can confirm.

[Duck's Guts]

Thanks for the link Admiral. That's the guideance I was after.

You are right re the practical location & operation whilst driving - a trial fit and play is first warrented before commiting to drilling any holes etc.
I'll take some photos from the drivers perspective & post them.

Even for the mounting of the mike bracket I need to find a way to not drill any permanant visible holes - still need to think about that one.

Re power supply: I plan to bring power via a fuse from the 2nd battery to a new fuse box under the dash. This will then be the accessories supply.

Cheers.

[Watpub]

For what it's worth I had a Uniden UH015SX UHF CB Radio - Detachable Head unit in my previous LandCruiser. The head is really small and can be mounted virtually anywhere. In the Cruiser it was actually attached to the front of the ashtray(!) and the main unit was tucked under the dash - didn't need to dismantle anything, just run a few wires around. It was a fantastic product and the only hassle I had was having to turn off Channel 40 on the Hume Highway when the wife and kids were in the car! :p

I'm not really big into CB-ing, but I'd prefer to have some form of UHF radio for off-road convoy driving and also overtaking situations particularly with trucks while towing a van. I'm thinking of a hand-held unit as opposed to mounting one permanently in the car. Any thoughts on the pros and cons? I know in the past battery life has been an issue but I see you can get them now with cigarette-lighter adapters.

Ron

[ADMIRAL]

For what it's worth I had a Uniden UH015SX UHF CB Radio - Detachable Head unit in my previous LandCruiser. The head is really small and can be mounted virtually anywhere. In the Cruiser it was actually attached to the front of the ashtray(!) and the main unit was tucked under the dash - didn't need to dismantle anything, just run a few wires around. It was a fantastic product and the only hassle I had was having to turn off Channel 40 on the Hume Highway when the wife and kids were in the car! :p

I'm not really big into CB-ing, but I'd prefer to have some form of UHF radio for off-road convoy driving and also overtaking situations particularly with trucks while towing a van. I'm thinking of a hand-held unit as opposed to mounting one permanently in the car. Any thoughts on the pros and cons? I know in the past battery life has been an issue but I see you can get them now with cigarette-lighter adapters.

Ron

Hi Ron,

Do a search. I'm sure I saw a post on a handheld being used successfully with an external antenna ( plug in ) Should work ok with the right antenna. The batteries are so good these days, I wouldn't think you would need to worry about an adaptor except to charge the unit.

[Duck's Guts]

FYI - photos from the driver's perspective of TX3100 simply sitting in the space after removing the coin tray.

Still sticks out too far.
Need to remove the rails etc that the coin tray actually resides within, to allow the UHF to sit deeper into the tray space. This should also allow the radio to be tilted slightly to improve viewing.

[Duck's Guts]

Also considering another location...the front courtesy light cluster.

Refering to the attached photo, does anyone know:

what the vents/grids for?
what is behind the area indicated in the photo?
how to remove this front courtesy light cluster?
Thanks & cheers,
Marc...

[sniegy]

Marc,
The vents are for microphones, Phone & Voice (if fitted).
A cradle that holds the light module & microphones.
Grab hold of the rear section, stick your fingers in between the roof lining & the light unit & pull down, firmly.

A whole heap of plugs & the unit comes away.

Cheers.

[Duck's Guts]

Finished.
Installed TX3100 to the coin tray in the D4 dash.
Bugger of a job, particularly chasing cables through the back of the centre console, and modifications to the existing coin tray receptacle.
I wouldn't recommend this as easy to do...

Coin tray removed and is now a spare part sitting in the shed.

The receptacle that the coin tray once resided in is now trashed - I completely changed it's functionality to suit the UHF install by taking to it with a Dremel, hack saw & Loctite 401 instant adhesive. This allowed the fashioning of the flat surface to mount the microphone, a deep enough space to recess the UHF unit, and ability to bring power, coax & an external speaker cable through the rear.

If I ever wish to return the dash to original, I would need to buy a new coin tray receptacle. That was the only thing modified.

Now, although not ideal viewing from the driver's seat, it is as good as you can get on a D4 dash without resorting to a remote mic UHF. I can see & operate it with the same visual & dexterity inputs as it takes to operate the Terrain Response, suspension height, & other Factory D4 controls in the same location/vicinity

[PaulGOz]

Looks like a neat install.

Where did you pick up power from? I have had a look around the engine bay and under the dash and it doesn't look like it is simple to get through the firewall.

Next question is the antenna where is the antenna and how did you run the cable through the car to the antenna?

Any insight would be great before scratch my knuckles.

[Duck's Guts]

I brought a separate twin cable (with 30amp circuit breaker) from my aux battery through the gromet in the firewall beside the brake master cylinder. This cable terminated to a new 4 blade fuse box located above the accelerator pedal.
Easy access to this fuse box is obtained via the easily removed facia/panel that is immediately below the steering column (when you remove this panel you will see an obvious hole in the metal work into which to access the fuse box.

Coax cable ran back through the same grommet in the firewall, then between the firewall & top of the brake cylinder reservior, along the driverside edge of the fender (just below & under the rubber hood seal), along the top of the headlight, then through an opening/aperture where the headlight meets the radiator mount steel work. The coax is now in the space between the radiator and the grille, and at present is temporarily bundled-up with the antenna ground plane base & zip tied to a steel cross brace, waiting for an ARB winch bar to be installed.
I am in the process of making a temporary bracket that will extend out from the grille whilst I wait for the bar.