Knocking in 4wheel drive

[COFFEY76]

Hi,

I have a concerning knock coming from the front wheels when I engage 4wheel drive...(off road)

I suspect it may be the freewheeling hubs, however i have had them fixed not to long ago, after which they worked perfectly well. (they are fairly old and have had a hard life)

The car still drives with power to both front and rear wheels.

should i just bugger off the old free wheeling hubs and find new ones or could their be a more sinister reason for the knocking?


P.S. reversing with a single axle trailer in a series land rover is TOTALLY impossible!

[COFFEY76]

Ah well upon closer inspection ive found the issue...

first photo shows the operational freewheeling hub.

Second photo shows the broken one..


not good..


So i guess i have to begin looking for new freewheeling hubs, Any suggestions?

[ashhhhh]

Which ones have you got at the moment?
Ive got some Warns I would sell but they'll only fit the 10 spline axle.

[pop058]

post up a wanted ad in the markets. I have a set (Warn IIRC) that I am happy to give away, but they would cost you more in frieght than they are worth (which is next to nothing IMHO). Not a real fan of them as I don't believe they provide any real benefit.

[digger]

put standard hubs on until you source others - if you bother sourcing others...

[Johnno1969]

put standard hubs on until you source others - if you bother sourcing others...

Yeah, after breaking an aftermarket hub not doing too-much-work-at-all, I changed back to the standard solid hub. That was 15 years ago...........

[JDNSW]

I'm inclined to agree - I don't think that free wheel hubs give much advantage, I would simply fit standard drive flanges. Should be plenty of those about. Series 2/2a should have ten spline unless the front axle is from a Series 3 (lwb or late swb).

John

[djam1]

I'm inclined to agree - I don't think that free wheel hubs give much advantage, I would simply fit standard drive flanges. Should be plenty of those about. Series 2/2a should have ten spline unless the front axle is from a Series 3 (lwb or late swb).

John

I always found them useful for disguising a stuffed front tailshaft.

[COFFEY76]

The hubs that are on there are 'selectro' heavy duty hubs.

The only reservation i have would be the increased drag that engaged front axles would create. I can feel a small amount of resistance when they were engaged (when they were working).

living on 100km/h roads i need the most speed i can get to avoid being a hazard! haha not that engaged hubs will make much difference to that!

So the general view is that they are one more thing that can go wrong?

[digger]

replace with stock hubs, put into a box and see how you go, you may get another from someone later and if you feel inclined could put it on then but if not its a smallish box in the shed so no problems really! and you are on the road without stress.

[JDNSW]

I always found them useful for disguising a stuffed front tailshaft.

I was nearly going to add that!

The other major use is to make easier the use of low range as a creeper gear on hard surfaces, for hooking up trailers, parades, etc.

(Disclaimer - I do have Warn hubs on my 2a - but they are engaged 90% of the time. They came on a body/chassis I paid $15 for.)

John

[AKW]

Can not help myself. But i have no problem
backing a single axle trailer behind my sIIa.

A long drawbar on the trailer will make it better to back though....


Andrew

[isuzurover]

The only reservation i have would be the increased drag that engaged front axles would create. I can feel a small amount of resistance when they were engaged (when they were working).

I noticed that (increased drag) when I used to first lock the hubs, but it went away if I left them engaged. I suspect it is just the re-oiling of all the un-oiled bits.

I found no measurable difference in fuel consumption or top speed with them locked, so I threw them away and fitted drive flanges (after breaking one like you have done).

[COFFEY76]

hahah, yeah longer drawbar would me VERY helpful... I connected the ATV trailer on to move the Hay down the paddock and welll yeah by the time i twisted left and right to see the trailer it was already at right angles.

Ah well what parts will i need to return back to standard hubs?

ive got the parts catalogue from 'Four Wheel Drives' down here in victoria, in front of me trying to work out what parts i will need to get...

i only need to replace parts back to the 6 bolt 'hub driving member'? i dont need to replace parts all the way back to the hub?

does that make sense?

[JDNSW]

Using the FWD catalogue, you need F5, F6, F3E,F4E, F1 plus a split pin for each side. You may already have F3E, and you may need F2E depending on the FWH setup.

John

[COFFEY76]

Using the FWD catalogue, you need F5, F6, F3E,F4E, F1 plus a split pin for each side. You may already have F3E, and you may need F2E depending on the FWH setup.

John


Thanks for that John Ill be treking down to get those parts start of next week!

[Bunjeel]

Going against the trend here, I appreciate my FW hubs for lower noise and fuel consumption on the hiway. The Cutlas Powerlocks on my SIIA shorty are virtually unbreakable with very few moving parts and even if the nylon bearing wears out, they still work fine and its an easy fix to remake the nylon in brass or bronze. An added advantage is you can stand on them when you need to put your head in the engine bay. :cool: Mind you there's not many about these days- they were fitted on Jeep / Willys and also made for LR under licence in England.

cheers

[COFFEY76]

Yeah I think that with alot of highway driving Free wheelers would be good to reduce that slight bit of drag.

At the end of the day it comes down to money. i can spend half as much bring it back to standard hub members than i would spend of new free wheeling hubs...

But not to say i wont change my mind somewhere down the track