Vehicle lifting hoist.

[Rangier Rover]

Had a search around but decided not to dig the other threads up as too much to filter through.

Hopefully we can keep this one on track with only a few fatty and skinny jokes;)

Now,
I'm getting to a stage I that really need a lifting hoist here as filled the pit in a wile back for safety reasons. I have got out of trouble by lifting one end of the vehicle with a chain block but had limited applications.:(
Now I'm over 40 don't need to be squirming around under grime covered 4X4s on cold concrete any more. Especially doing gear boxes:mad: My back is dodgy so have to be careful from here on.

I would only use the hoist two of three time a week and will be lifting mainly Toyota Landcruisers, Pootrools and occasionally my Rovers;)

We only have rural power her so is single phase:(
Hope to get away with a 4 tonne two post turnout.TUFFLIFT HOISTS - 2 post Clear floor 4 tonne (http://www.tufflift.com/page8.htm)
What is better, clear floor or floor plate?
The clear floor may have issues with the taller vehicles?

Don't really want to spend much over 3k on the hoist.

So what do you all have there? Happy with them? An idea of cost and availability. Given my location, freight may be an issue:(

Thanks Tony.

[Chops]

G'Day Tony,
I worked in an R&D centre which had two hoists, one was a two post, and the other a four post.
I'd pick the four poster every time reguardless of what we were doing, be it changing transmissions, swapping complete diff units, or removing an engine.
The reason being, that the four poster is more stable when working on them, (theres no movment/hoist wriggling). Theres also more attatchments for them, as in built in/movable jacks etc, (be they air or hydrolic), it also gives you room or space to rest things like tools, parts etc, very helpfull when on your own. :eek: :)
I've got no idea what their worth, but I have seen them in single phase. The other thing you could check on, is how easy it is to convert a three pase unit to single phase, which may allow you to get a good second hand unit, whichever you decide on.

I miss the workshop now,, made life working on the car sooooo easy,, :(
And as a "helpfull hint", if you have to lay on the concrete, get some cardboard down first,, (not so cold then);)

[Psimpson7]

My dads workshop has 2 Bradbury 4 post 4ton ramps back home. One has a wheel free.

We bought both from dealer workshops that closed down. One was a Peugeot agent, the other a MG Rover one from memory.

they cost about 250/300 pounds each. Both were 3 phase and we converted them to single.

They are fantastic. Never had issues with either of them and they get used every day.

They are seriously heavy however, but fairly easy to take apart and put back together.

Second hand if you can find them is the best way of getting them I reckon.

Rgds
Pete

[bee utey]

I have a 2ton 2 post hoist with a floor hump and I won't put 4WD's on it. As mentioned it's not very stable. I only use it for light cars for my lpg work. It's also a nuisance with lifting gearboxes as the hump gets in the way. Your linked hoist looks better.

Quite frankly I prefer a good set of axle stands and a wheeled crawl board for a 4WD. Being able to zip out either end and both sides at any time with full access to both sills makes the crawl board tops for me. A 4 post ramp lift is really good for trans work but a nuisance for springs/brakes as the ramps are where you want to work.

[Psimpson7]

A 4 post ramp lift is really good for trans work but a nuisance for springs/brakes as the ramps are where you want to work.

Unless you have a wheel free.

[TonyC]

Unless you have a wheel free.

Pete,
What's a "Wheel Free"?

Tony

[Psimpson7]

Hi Tony,

On ours it was 2 lengths of I beam type section that sat on the ramp bed normally, but could be seperately locked into the 4 legs with a lever on each end, which then alowed you to leave the car up there, and move the bed down.

I will see if I can find a picture.

Here you can see the end of it, and the rack on the right leg it hooks onto. There is a rack on all 4 legs.

Sinking it into the floor took a fair bit of work!

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/118.jpg

Here's another pic, but not very clear as its sat at ground level.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/07/119.jpg

Rgds
Peter

[Disco_owner]

:lol2:
now is probably a good time to upgrade to a 3-phase Diesel generator for the rangier_rover work shop. then it's time for a Heavy Duty 4 post hoist.

just one problem ,

where're you thinking of putting the hoist? :angel:

[Rangier Rover]

:lol2:
now is probably a good time to upgrade to a 3-phase Diesel generator for the rangier_rover work shop. then it's time for a Heavy Duty 4 post hoist.

just one problem ,

where're you thinking of putting the hoist? :angel:

Ah she'll be right. Put a pto on the 120:twisted:

Remember the second bay at the back where the VW bug and series one are sitting just past the concrete floor. I need to move a lot of **** first:eek:
Will be like a drive through.:cool: I plan to keep the main part nice and open with a mobile lifting gantry.

Edit.... Did a quick drawing for ya:angel:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=27322&stc=1&d=1280296720
Thats the floor plan:mellow:

[rovercare]

You already know my spiel, as the tufflift is what i got:D
No issue with it, go the clear floor, having the hump is a pain;)

Order with single phase motor:p same price

[Rangier Rover]

I think the two post will work better overall with what I do. Mostly service, brakes, swivels, uni joints and some restoration/lifting body off a chassis etc. Just have to be a bit careful wangling gearboxes and rear diffs asy's out:D

I have contacted Tufflift today on the 4 tonne job.... They are checking on freight to my door. May take the fun out of it I seem to think:(
Also have to prep the site and will require some serious concrete. Better make sure my shed power here will handle 30amps @ 240v:eek:

[Rangier Rover]

Have just been talking to Clive at Tufflift.
As I will be lifting Landcruisers has recommended the 4.5ton as the chassis rails are so far in. A duty thing.

Got a really good deal after I told him a member here recommended Tufflift and was very happy with it:D Clive also wanted me to get the right hoist for what I do here.
The 4 tonne Would have been fine with Rovers and only the odd Toyota.

So have ordered a 4.5 tonne clear floor.:eek:
TUFFLIFT HOISTS - 2 post clear floor 4.5 Tonne (http://www.tufflift.com/page9.htm)

Freight isn't to bad... about $630 to my door.

Better move all the junk now.:eek:

[mark2]

You already know my spiel, as the tufflift is what i got:D
No issue with it, go the clear floor, having the hump is a pain;)

Order with single phase motor:p same price

I have the exact same one - Tufflift, 2 post clear floor. I have no reservations in recomending it.

No problems lifting Patrols, 130's etc. I park my 110 up on it when I need extra shed space and another vehicle underneath it. Its well made (especially given its Chinese:D) and I've had no dramas in the last few years since I bought it.

It can get a bit of wobble up due to slight flex in the arms but this is normal for a 2 post hoist.

[Rangier Rover]

Well the Tough Lift fell through:( I have been stuffed around by the freight mob so that's that.:mad:

Ended up getting a Launch (Unbranded Repco) Same company as Repco hoist, same hoist only painted blue and 1K less.
Picked it up in Sydney yesterday.
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1176.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1177.jpg

Blew a tyre wile overtaking a Dunnydore ute doing 130. Well, I couldn't stop:angel: So only one thing to do at 10.15pm..... Turn the radio up and hang on!:twisted:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1178.jpg

Anyone want to help me put it up:angel:

[blackbuttdisco]

What were you doing 130 with a trailer on for??

[Rangier Rover]

What were you doing 130 with a trailer on for??

I wasn't;)

Was only doing 90 when I tried to pass him. He gassed it when I almost was done:mad: We were running out of road so I floored it to get in;) Then settled back to a nice 95 to 100kph.

[Tank]

Where do you live, I'll be in Canberra next week for about a week, could give you a hand to put it up after Canberra job, Regards Frank.

[Rangier Rover]

Where do you live, I'll be in Canberra next week for about a week, could give you a hand to put it up after Canberra job, Regards Frank.

Hi Frank,
I'm near Coolah NSW, Be a fair bit out or your way.
You would have had a bit to do with hoist over the years Too I'd imagine.
I'll make a start on it this weekend and see what sort of a mess I can make of it:eek: Worst part will be standing the columns up on my own. Plan is to erect the power side first and go from there. I have a chain block and plenty of rope so it wont get away on me.
The destruction's suggest using chalk string line and predrilling all the holes. Think I will only drill the power side, erect the whole turnout and then drill the other side when its properly aligned.
One snag is, I have a height restraint so the columns will have to be lowered 300mm. This is going to cause issues with the equalization cables. It has been suggested to use very heavy walled tube to space the cable back to specs. I'll use hydraulic ram rod for this.
Tony.

[Tank]

Hi Frank,
I'm near Coolah NSW, Be a fair bit out or your way.
You would have had a bit to do with hoist over the years Too I'd imagine.
I'll make a start on it this weekend and see what sort of a mess I can make of it:eek: Worst part will be standing the columns up on my own. Plan is to erect the power side first and go from there. I have a chain block and plenty of rope so it wont get away on me.
The destruction's suggest using chalk string line and predrilling all the holes. Think I will only drill the power side, erect the whole turnout and then drill the other side when its properly aligned.
One snag is, I have a height restraint so the columns will have to be lowered 300mm. This is going to cause issues with the equalization cables. It has been suggested to use very heavy walled tube to space the cable back to specs. I'll use hydraulic ram rod for this.
Tony.
Have you got a winch and a snatch block and space above to hoist the stanchions up, can you raise the roof above the hoist to get clearance without cutting the hoist, Regards frank.

[The ho har's]

We will be there in 13 weeks:eek: can help but hh said he put ours up on his own:o:D:D


Mrs hh:angel:

[numpty]

What a clever Mr HH :angel:

[Rangier Rover]

It will be up by the weekend:cool: I just don't really like drinking beer alone once its done :D
Have made a start tonight. Must remember to take the camera down tomorrow night. ;)

[mike 90 RR]

Have made a start tonight. Must remember to take the camera down tomorrow night. ;)


..... Just remember, Tony ... That the hoist will only be as stable as the concrete, that your bolting it down 2

So how thick is the floor? .. and does it have steel mesh in it?













BTW .... Don't lower the hoist






Cut the roof :twisted:


Cheers
Mike


:)

[Rangier Rover]

..... Just remember, Tony ... That the hoist will only be as stable as the concrete, that your bolting it down 2

So how thick is the floor? .. and does it have steel mesh in it?













BTW .... Don't lower the hoist






Cut the roof :twisted:


Cheers
Mike


:)

From what I recall the slab is over 250mm. I will drill some test holes to confirm that bit.
It also has steel mesh so all good in that part.
Lifting the shed roof would be a show stopper as timber / steel and lots of electrikery:(
It happens the hoist comes with extensions that can be dropped 300mm. Its just the cable I have to deal with. At least we can revert it back to 4.2 mtrs later on.
Bit of a rush job as I need it now! They say the slab must be good for 3000psi:eek:


Tony

[mike 90 RR]

From what I recall the slab is over 250mm.


...... :eek: .....



HOLY TORLEDO ..... No doing half jobs in your neck of the woods!!



Well at least it's not 100mm with no reo ... :) ....




Lifting the shed roof would be a show stopper as timber / steel and lots of electrikery:(


...and why do I get the feeling that this is all a ploy,



to get a new shed? .... :p


Mike
:D

[Rangier Rover]

...... :eek: .....



HOLY TORLEDO ..... No doing half jobs in your neck of the woods!!



Well at least it's not 100mm with no reo ... :) ....





...and why do I get the feeling that this is all a ploy,



to get a new shed? .... :p


Mike
:D

Overkill engineering? If we're not sure, we just beef it up a little:twisted:

Lots of sheds here and a newbie going up soon as to speak. The old shed in question is closer to power and the fridge:twisted:
I will intime have to build a new workshop with all these projects around here. The landscape and current developments/ fixtures make it difficult though.

[Rangier Rover]

Most of the pre assembly is now done, extensions are on the columns etc. Just have to stand her up and fit the cross beam then bolt it down. Then fit the balance cables, power pack and some eleco.:)
Going to shove a lump of heavy wall 2" pipe between the shed roof truss to lift the columns. A little awkward on my own but I'll get it with persistence;)

[spudboy]

Hi Tony - I got a TuffLift from Clive. 8000Lb I think, so around 3.5 tonnes. We needed 3 people to lift it all up into place, but didn;t take too long (one afternoon).

The only thing I don't like about a 2 post lift is sorting out the "legs" when you drive different vehicles onto it. There is always a bit of stuffing around getting the legs into the right position, but once done they are fantastic.

I reckon you will love it.

"Lucky" with the blowout BTW. That could have turned ugly :o

[Rangier Rover]

Some pics and not much progess,

I made an extender jib for my compact loader backhoe:twisted: (Lawn mower on steroids:twisted:)
Its very maneuverable inside the shed, so getting the post erected was easy as using Viagra.:D Now, don't be rude:p
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/894.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/895.jpg



Have run into a little snag though.:( The damn thing is 5" taller than the specs said. I now have an issue with the shed roof. Its either move the hoist over 16" and have it hard against the tyre rack or attack the offending piece of timber. I like option B the most. Maybe laminate it? I only need an inch:mad:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/896.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/897.jpg


Once I sort this, just have to fit the cross piece, Secure it all then fit/adjust the cables and power pack. Then I need a sparkie.:angel:

[Rangier Rover]

Mike, any ideas on the roof before I bugger it.:wasntme:

[Koukandowie Brangus]

Mike, any ideas on the roof before I bugger it.:wasntme:

Hey RR now im not a builder but could you just put a truss either side of the existing one? then maybe putting a cutout in the existing one wouldn't be so bad?

[Rangier Rover]

Hey RR now im not a builder but could you just put a truss either side of the existing one? then maybe putting a cutout in the existing one wouldn't be so bad?
Ideally some of that truss needs to go as well. It will look different on top of the roof:twisted:

[slug_burner]

It looks like you always wanted an american barn style shed anyway

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/875.jpg

You dont have to do the whole length of the roof just the part above the hoist working area. If you are going to get a sparkie in to wire the hoist then get them to put in two junction boxes to allow you to lift the ridge line.

It is a bit of mucking around for just a few inches.

If all you need is that notch then laminate it with a piece of steel plate or sheet on each side.

[rovercare]

Mike, any ideas on the roof before I bugger it.:wasntme:

Just notch it, it'll be fine

Bit far to drive just to wire it for you:p....be heading to cape work the end of April, just bung it on an extension lead till then;)

Mine is still on an extension lead:eek::angel:

[dullbird]

Just notch it, it'll be fine

Bit far to drive just to wire it for you:p....be heading to cape work the end of April, just bung it on an extension lead till then;)

Mine is still on an extension lead:eek::angel:

oh perhaps we can get ours in before you go up and you can do a couple of stop off's..hahahha

[rovercare]

oh perhaps we can get ours in before you go up and you can do a couple of stop off's..hahahha

Hmmm you might have to beer and feed 4 of us though, might be cheaper to get a local sparky:D

[dullbird]

Hmmm you might have to beer and feed 4 of us though, might be cheaper to get a local sparky:D

how much beer do you drink:eek::D

I have 4 bedrooms..

Oh wait I sleep in one of them..make that 3 unless you want to spoon with Ian:wasntme:

[mike 90 RR]

Mike, any ideas on the roof before I bugger it.:wasntme:

Errrr ... Maybe a bit late now .... But Yes, I have a idea


Unbolt the 5x2 joist at the truss and put 1 & 1/2" packer under it .... make up a plate and rebolt it back to the truss


... Puts a kink in the roof / but works :angel:





(Crudely explained .... but not new to the allrounder, is the following)
Then, later on ..... Make up 2 foot extension posts ... go up to each post (leg) of the shed ... cut it with angle grinder and slowly jack up a pair of posts that support the truss and raise the shed

With a bunch of screw jacks tack welded to the side of the posts and a bit of cross bracing of the shed .... it will raise up fine .... This will give you the height to clear the truss over the rased car that you seek

Fill the 2 foot gap of the wall of the shed with new corry iron peices






Then remove the 1 & 1/2" packer under the 5x2 joist and rebolt it back to the truss



All good

:D

[Rangier Rover]

Too late! But it does fit now:twisted:
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/attachment.php?attachmentid=28961&stc=1&d=1284898412
I think in the long term, lifting the roof a good 500mm would be way to go. Bit of a job though. Sunday BBQ?:angel:

[dullbird]

that would be a hell of a BBQ if you set fire to the shed just to make the lifter fit:D

[mike 90 RR]

lifting the roof a good 500mm would be way to go. Bit of a job though.

Easier than dropping the floor tho :twisted:



Ya hoist looks great ....

:)

[Rangier Rover]

Now the nasty bit.:mad:

Now......Before anyone says.... I shouldn't be playing with sparks.... Don't go there:(

We have no choice around here.;)

The power pack looks OK but the wiring is different.:eek: Even one not connected in the motor:mad: Very dodgy. Will have to go through the lot of it so its safe.
Possibly do a temporary fix till Matt or another sparky gets here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/767.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/768.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/769.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/770.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/771.jpg

[rovercare]

Looks like they've left you with the 3 phase motor control box, what is the coil voltage on the contactor? if its 415 its definately the case

That switch is a thermal overload, looks like your going to need a 240V coil and wire according to the diagram you have there, placing the limit switch in as SQ, can still use the rotary switch for an isolator and discard one of the momentary switches

Make sense?

[Rangier Rover]

Looks like they've left you with the 3 phase motor control box, what is the coil voltage on the contactor? if its 415 its definately the case

That switch is a thermal overload, looks like your going to need a 240V coil and wire according to the diagram you have there, placing the limit switch in as SQ, can still use the rotary switch for an isolator and discard one of the momentary switches

Make sense?

It is a 3ph control box.:mad: Has 440/480 0n the contactor. The momentary sw wouldn't like being used with out the contact set right.
I can see a crushed roof on the Rangie happening here;)


So we can just run it with the isolator and the momentary sw on the motor till I can get a new coil for the contact set?
Off a 15A lead:angel:

[Rangier Rover]

It is a 3ph control box.:mad: Has 440/480 0n the contactor. The momentary sw wouldn't like being used with out the contact set right.
I can see a crushed roof on the Rangie happening here;)


So we can just run it with the isolator and the momentary sw on the motor till I can get a new coil for the contact set?
Off a 15A lead:angel:


Looks like they've left you with the 3 phase motor control box, what is the coil voltage on the contactor? if its 415 its definately the case

That switch is a thermal overload, looks like your going to need a 240V coil and wire according to the diagram you have there, placing the limit switch in as SQ, can still use the rotary switch for an isolator and discard one of the momentary switches

Make sense?


Now the nasty bit.:mad:

Now......Before anyone says.... I shouldn't be playing with sparks.... Don't go there:(

We have no choice around here.;)

The power pack looks OK but the wiring is different.:eek: Even one not connected in the motor:mad: Very dodgy. Will have to go through the lot of it so its safe.
Possibly do a temporary fix till Matt or another sparky gets here.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/767.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/768.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/769.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/770.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/771.jpg


I just contacted Launch Tech, Got hold of the guy who sold me the hoist.. He's sending me the correct control box by express post.:)
It will all have to wait a few days:(

[rovercare]

I just contacted Launch Tech, Got hold of the guy who sold me the hoist.. He's sending me the correct control box by express post.:)
It will all have to wait a few days:(

Sounds good, if your itching that bad, you can run it off the switch on the front of the box, just be wary lifting cars without the top limit working, especially with a low roof:D

[Ace]

I havent read every post in the thread and I see you bought one already but i reckon the 4 post is the way to go. My mechanic has one of each in his work shop and I much prefer using the 4 post hoist as opposed to the two post one. The 2 post one will lift the disco and it fine for working on the wheels and changing the oil but if you do and serious work under the car and you are reefing on tight bolts and stuff it just doesnt seem stable as the others have mentioned.

The 4 post one has two ramps that go down either side of the car to lift the whole car but there are two hydraulic jacks at either end of the car so you can jack the wheels up off the ramps (as others have mentioned). I reckon this is the most universal choice, its great. I have removed my gearbox and transfer case on that hoise and its no problems. The ramps get in the way a bit but its nothing you cant work around.

matt

[rovercare]

I havent read every post in the thread and I see you bought one already but i reckon the 4 post is the way to go. My mechanic has one of each in his work shop and I much prefer using the 4 post hoist as opposed to the two post one. The 2 post one will lift the disco and it fine for working on the wheels and changing the oil but if you do and serious work under the car and you are reefing on tight bolts and stuff it just doesnt seem stable as the others have mentioned.

The 4 post one has two ramps that go down either side of the car to lift the whole car but there are two hydraulic jacks at either end of the car so you can jack the wheels up off the ramps (as others have mentioned). I reckon this is the most universal choice, its great. I have removed my gearbox and transfer case on that hoise and its no problems. The ramps get in the way a bit but its nothing you cant work around.

matt

4 posts are a pain I think, good for general servicing, but all the pains that a pit has, without the ability to work on the top of the vehicle, they are far better for quick oil change servicing

Just did a clutch on a GU patrol last week on the 2 post, no issues

Oh and a 4 post with the little jacky bits are over double the price;)

[Rangier Rover]

I've got an Isuzu powed 120" so no major service needed:D Till it chews the gear box up:eek:

Horses for courses.... For me it was a new 2 post or second hand 4 post and then have to by a new power pack for the 240V.

With what I do here the 2 post will be better. Brakes,bearings,seals, diffs, steering components etc and usual service. Also restoration, body lifts, suspension mods. Lots of tyre changing.

The work shop is multipurpose so the smaller hoist leaves room to roll in 150hp tractors and doing the odd welding job.
The 2 post are quite stable if used correctly. Stick a lump of pipe up the arse end of the offending vehicle then swing on the bar/spanner:twisted:

If I ever find a 4 post cheap enough it will go in futher down the shed latter on.:)

[Rangier Rover]

The new control box turned up so ended up wiring the bugger in my self:angel: Looks a lot neater than most of the other rats nest put here in the past. Anyone wondering, yes the active and neutral are correct and I soldered the earth in the distribution box. Used 6mm cable and a 25A breaker. Checked the current draw on both legs and turned out nearly all was on one side so the hoist is away from most power points and the air compressor. It only has to compete with my mig. I figured it's not likely both will be used at once.:)
Had an issue with the thermal switch as it literally fell apart.:( Have taken it out for now. Works fine otherwise.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/128.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/129.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/130.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/131.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/132.jpg

On securing it down, I drilled a test hole and confirmed the slab is over 300mm thick.:twisted: So it now has much longer fixings:angel:

[abaddonxi]

And now you're opening up a tyre shop?:D

[Homestar]

Great to see it all working - don't forget to pop the thermal back in when you get a new one. It's the easiest thing in the world to forget about as they do stuff all - until it is needed... Cheaper to replace the thermal, than to cook a motor.

Cheers - Gav
_______________________________________
I'm not 40! I'm 18... with 22 years experience!

[rovercare]

Had an issue with the thermal switch as it literally fell apart.:( Have taken it out for now. Works fine otherwise.




Yea, those thermals are crap, I wouldn't stress to much, in real life, when the fail you just bypass them anyhow:angel:

With the situation the motor is in, you'll know when its labouring:)

[mike 90 RR]

confirmed the slab is over 300mm thick.:twisted:


......:eek: ... Tiss rated for Skyscraper? ....

[Rangier Rover]

And now you're opening up a tyre shop?:D
:lol2::lol2:
And that's only some of them:eek:
We change our tyres more often than some people change their undies:twisted:

[Rangier Rover]

Great to see it all working - don't forget to pop the thermal back in when you get a new one. It's the easiest thing in the world to forget about as they do stuff all - until it is needed... Cheaper to replace the thermal, than to cook a motor.

Cheers - Gav
_______________________________________
I'm not 40! I'm 18... with 22 years experience!
Like your sig!
Can tell you I'm glad to see this thing move. I'll get onto Launch Tech and see if they can scratch up a new thermal. Not much room under that cover:(


Yea, those thermals are crap, I wouldn't stress to much, in real life, when the fail you just bypass them anyhow:angel:

With the situation the motor is in, you'll know when its labouring:)
All my pencil augers have had them bypassed... :angel:

[Homestar]

Cheers - It's probably not so critical with a single phase motor like you have, as Rovercare says, you should know when you are starting to overload it. In a 3 phase application it is much more critical, as it not only prevents mechanical overloading of the motor, but if 1 phase fails (a broken wire or something similar) then the motor will start to 'Pole' and burn out very quickly even with no load on it if not properly protected by a thermal. If the same thing happens on a single phase motor, it just stops... Having said all that, I am also guilty of bypassing these on occation...:angel:

Cheers - Gav
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I'm not 40! I'm 18... with 22 years experience!