Another which oil?

[Disco Brian]

My disco 200tdi is nearing the 300,000 mark and I want to give it a good going over. Although I have little experience or knowledge I'm going to do this myself. I've got a manual and I should be able to work it all out from that. I've copied the required maintenance schedule from the manual to an excel spread sheet which I've attached.

From reading the forums I figure I should be using the following oils:

Engine oil: Penrite HPR Diesel 5
Gearbox oil: Castrol Syntrans 75W85
Transfer box oil: Castrol Syntrans 75W85
Front axle oil: Penrite Hypoid 80W-90 (d)
Rear axle oil: Penrite Hypoid 80W-90 (d)

What I haven't worked out yet is what I should use for:
swivel pin housing oil
propellar shaft sliding joints lubricant
propellar shaft universal joint lubricant
handbrake linkages lubricant

Any comments would be appreciated.

[MinniTheMoocha]

My disco 200tdi is nearing the 300,000 mark and I want to give it a good going over. Although I have little experience or knowledge I'm going to do this myself. I've got a manual and I should be able to work it all out from that. I've copied the required maintenance schedule from the manual to an excel spread sheet which I've attached.

From reading the forums I figure I should be using the following oils:

Engine oil: Penrite HPR Diesel 5 (I think this is too light an oil I think you need HPR 15)

Gearbox oil: Castrol Syntrans 75W85 (Or Motul 300)

Transfer box oil: Castrol Syntrans 75W85 (I thought it was Syntrax?)

Front axle oil: Penrite Hypoid 80W-90 (d) (fine)
Rear axle oil: Penrite Hypoid 80W-90 (d) (fine)

What I haven't worked out yet is what I should use for:
swivel pin housing oil (Hypoid 80-90 if running straight oil some go half oil/grease)


propellar shaft sliding joints lubricant (good high temp driveline grease, penrite etc)

propellar shaft universal joint lubricant (good high temp driveline grease, penrite etc)

handbrake linkages lubricant

Any comments would be appreciated.


Hope this helps

[abaddonxi]

x2 Syntrax.

[Disco Brian]

Transfer box oil: Castrol Syntrans 75W85 (I thought it was Syntrax?)


Thanks for that. I'm glad I asked the question. I don't know how I got my wires crossed.


Engine oil: Penrite HPR Diesel 5 (I think this is too light an oil I think you need HPR 15)


Aaaah, too late on this one. This is the one I have already done. I went off the Penrite reccomendation. Oil Recommendations - Penrite Oil (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/oil_selector.php)

[MinniTheMoocha]

Thanks for that. I'm glad I asked the question. I don't know how I got my wires crossed.



Aaaah, too late on this one. This is the one I have already done. I went off the Penrite reccomendation. Oil Recommendations - Penrite Oil (http://www.penriteoil.com.au/oil_selector.php)

I think the website is wrong! I have told them before but the HPR5 is for TD5's or more modern diesel engine than either the 200 or 300tdi.

Worth a call to Penrite to confirm for yourself.

[rick130]

HPR Diesel 5 would be fine in a Tdi.

Any of a 5/10/15W-40 is the right viscosity range.

I personally see no need for an xW-60 in any engine that's in reasonable condition.
If the Tdi isn't using any oil, keep using an xW-40.

Syntrax 75w-90 or another exxy synthetic is nice in the t/case if you tow in summer or do a lot of hot, slow, low range work, otherwise a decent 75w-90 or 80W-90 would be fine

[shikmehmet]

use moreys oil addative straight for the front swivel housings, 250 mls will do the trick. thats the best oil/grease you will ever find and it is cheap to buy at repco

[350RRC]

use moreys oil addative straight for the front swivel housings, 250 mls will do the trick. thats the best oil/grease you will ever find and it is cheap to buy at repco

x2, DL

[Disco Brian]

use moreys oil addative straight for the front swivel housings, 250 mls will do the trick. thats the best oil/grease you will ever find and it is cheap to buy at repco

I've done everything except the swivels. I understand that you can use oil, oil and grease combo, grease and now Morey's oil additive. My inexperience and lack of confidence has me worried about using anything that isn't straight out of the book, ie straight oil - the same as used in the diff.

"best oil/grease you will ever find" is a big call and I'm tempted but would like to see 1 or 2 more endorsements. Any one else used it?

shikmehmet, thanks for the advice, please don't take my apprehension as a slap in the face.:)

[rick130]

I've done everything except the swivels. I understand that you can use oil, oil and grease combo, grease and now Morey's oil additive. My inexperience and lack of confidence has me worried about using anything that isn't straight out of the book, ie straight oil - the same as used in the diff.

"best oil/grease you will ever find" is a big call and I'm tempted but would like to see 1 or 2 more endorsements. Any one else used it?

shikmehmet, thanks for the advice, please don't take my apprehension as a slap in the face.:)

Good thinking Brian ;)

Moreys oil stabiliser, just like Lucas and STP is merely an oil thickener, usually only a heavy molecular weight oil like a Bright Stock that was used in the past by every blender to beef up a thin Group I oil to make a multigrade, so it's nothing trick.

From the MSDS (I can't find a PDS anywhere) it has bugger all Anti-Wear and Extreme Pressure additives (AW/EP), something less than 1% ZDDP, < 3% Phosphorous, etc. or in other words nothing like the levels of additives in an average GL-5 spec diff oil.

At least the Land Rover One Shot grease has 3% MoS2 (molydenum disulphide) to protect the CV balls.
MoS2 is the most used EP additive in CV applications as it just plain works.
The 'One Shot' is nothing trick either, just a very, very thin NLGI 00 lithium soap based grease with some Moly added, sort of a cross between a heavy weight oil and grease so you get the advantages of both.
It's made by Texaco (Molytex EP 00) for Land Rover but chronically overpriced from Land Rover for what it is, but it works well.
Apparently most Land Rover spare parts places (like Karcraft) stock something similar these days at much more reasonable prices.

IMO if you want to go thicker than an 80W-90 oil as the swivels weep a bit and don't want to use One Shot use a straight SAE140 GL-5/6 diff oil.
It'll provide a lot more protection than Moreys Oil Stabiliser.

If anyone does want to use Moreys Oil Stabilser in the swivels/CV's I'd be adding 3-5% by volume MoS2 to beef it up.
Molybond used to sell sachets of the stuff in a light oil base that most spare parts shops stocked, so you can really go to town playing tribologist. (that's what the blokes in white coats with the PhD's are called that blend oils ;) )

Oh, and never, ever add Moreys to an engine oil or diff oil for that matter, all you will do is increase the viscosity and thin out the oils carefully balanced additive package.

[Disco Brian]

The disco has spoken. I went to drain the swivels and nothing came out when I removed the plug. After a while there was a slight ooze. It appears that they have been given the grease treatment in a past life. I couldn't remove the level plug because it was rounded. So I suppose I will just leave the swivels alone until something goes wrong.

[rick130]

Brian, you can dip the swivels with a clean piece of wire to find out if they have enough oil, (it often blws past the seal into the diff) that'
It's something you have to do on the late model housings without a level and drain plug.
Jack the front end and put the steering on full lock for each side so you can get the dip stick past the swivel ball.

[goingbush]

Good thinking Brian ;)


**clip**
If anyone does want to use Moreys Oil Stabilser in the swivels/CV's I'd be adding 3-5% by volume MoS2 to beef it up.
Molybond used to sell sachets of the stuff in a light oil base that most spare parts shops stocked, so you can really go to town playing tribologist. (that's what the blokes in white coats with the PhD's are called that blend oils ;) )

Oh, and never, ever add Moreys to an engine oil or diff oil for that matter, all you will do is increase the viscosity and thin out the oils carefully balanced additive package.



Seems Ive had a bum steer on Moreys, ive been using it for years in Toyotas but avoided putting it in my TD5 (luckily) but it is in my swivel housings.

I used to use Molybond (in the yellow tubes) or MOS2 additive, I've not been able to find it anywhere lately.

Looking for some for my final drives

Closest thing I could find in the Auto Store was "Liqui Moly Engine Protect"
the box mentions MOS2 but does not say the ingredients, I'd be happier if The product was Black but its a redex type liquid .

Anyone had any experience with this stuff, if its PTFE I dont want to use it.

[rick130]

Seems Ive had a bum steer on Moreys, ive been using it for years in Toyotas but avoided putting it in my TD5 (luckily) but it is in my swivel housings.

I used to use Molybond (in the yellow tubes) or MOS2 additive, I've not been able to find it anywhere lately.

Looking for some for my final drives

Closest thing I could find in the Auto Store was "Liqui Moly Engine Protect"
the box mentions MOS2 but does not say the ingredients, I'd be happier if The product was Black but its a redex type liquid .

Anyone had any experience with this stuff, if its PTFE I dont want to use it.

Are you sure you really, really want to be adding/playing blender ? :)

Molybond are still in business ITW Home Page (http://www.itwpf.com.au/molybond_lubricants/), that Lubri-Moly engine protect is for engines and is a mixture of ZDDP, etc to beef up a normal engine oil and their MoS2 additives only contain around 3% moly according to the MSDS, so when you add it to your oil it will be quite diluted (which is probably a good thing)

From what I've read and been told there are better ways to enhance boundary layer protection and increase extreme pressure load capacity in diff and engine oils than using MoS2.

Moly is great in low speed and particularly sliding situations, eg driveshaft splines but isn't so good in rolling element bearings (it can be fatal) unless the particle size is around 3 micron.

[goingbush]

Cheers, will leave well enough alone.
My 1HDT blew up at 540.000 klm, (cam seized) now Im wondering if it blew up because I altered the oil by adding Moreys, or if it lasted that long because I did??