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View Full Version : Woe is my drivetrain :-|



isuzutoo-eh
30th July 2010, 01:39 PM
G'day all,
My County is a little bit stuffed.
First of all, for the past month or so there has been a really annoying squeak. I couldn't place it. My Dad reckoned it was the bonnet hinge bushes worn out. I took it to a gearbox/diff place who said it was the engine/gearbox mounts scoured squeaky clean because I had driven it on Stockton Beach two weeks beforehand. That didn't account for the fact that the drivetrain felt much sloppier/clunkier than before.
Found out what it is today:
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/10/1302.jpg

Thats the gearbox end of the front prop shaft uni. The bolt head is wearing against the yoke. There shouldn't be that much slop! The gearbox/diff bloke didn't pick that up :eek:
I had the rear proshaft replaced a few months ago, should have done both.

Anyway, Tuesday night I picked up a Rangie LT95 gearbox for the AULRO courier service, parked on a steep driveway bonnet downhill, first time i've had it that the handbrake didn't hold. Parked in gear no probs.
Driving off was fine for 50 metres till I had to stop very suddenly as a bus turned right through a T intersection in front of me.
Now I get a choice of first or second gear but not both, and sometimes the choice isn't mine to make. My gearbox is an LT95.
When I don't have first from standstill, there is just no place to select it opposite 2nd. When I do have first, I get underway but try to change to second and it grates, just won't engage no matter how much double clutching/rev matching I do. Its not the normal crunch either, its higher pitched and faster sounding.

I've taken the gearstick out and can't find any issues in the selector forks, looks the same as the LT95 I picked up inside. But I don't really know what i'm looking for.
The transfer is fine, as I had to change range on the go when I only had 2nd+ on some hill starts and in testing just now.

any hints or advice gladly taken, should I be looking at replacing my gearbox? Might be cheaper to get the 2a on the road...

isuzurover
30th July 2010, 02:20 PM
I had the rear proshaft replaced a few months ago, should have done both.
..

A buggered uni is no reason to replace an entire prop. A new uni is $15 and easy to fit.

I did a uni recently after the grease nipple rattled out on the canning. I fitted the uni at a camp ground using only basic tools (long nose pliers, hammer, punch and a large socket).

As for the gearbox - maybe drain the oil and see what is in there. LT95s are $$$ to rebuild but 2nd hand ones are cheap...

Shonky
30th July 2010, 02:21 PM
Buy a Rangie. :angel:

isuzutoo-eh
30th July 2010, 02:30 PM
A buggered uni is no reason to replace an entire prop. A new uni is $15 and easy to fit.

I did a uni recently after the grease nipple rattled out on the canning. I fitted the uni at a camp ground using only basic tools (long nose pliers, hammer, punch and a large socket).

As for the gearbox - maybe drain the oil and see what is in there. LT95s are $$$ to rebuild but 2nd hand ones are cheap...


Sorry Ben,
I should have said it was only the uni's replaced on the rear propshaft, I'm not great with terminology.



Shonky...
Was that you wanting someone to look at a Defender recently? That must be because Rangies are sooo great :p

clean32
30th July 2010, 02:37 PM
50 bucks says your trailing arm bushes are shot big time, thus pushing every thing forward

isuzutoo-eh
30th July 2010, 03:02 PM
Cleaner, That would have been correct a few months ago, but they were replaced a week before the Stockton trip, which is when the squeak started. So perhaps having them replaced caused the problem?

Shonky
30th July 2010, 03:25 PM
Shonky...
Was that you wanting someone to look at a Defender recently? That must be because Rangies are sooo great :p

...move along people! Nothing to see here. :eek:

Lotz-A-Landies
30th July 2010, 03:27 PM
I know what the problem is - its dirty!

Clean all that crud off and the County wont know what's hit it.

It also won't move because it will think it's been bad, but that will save the noise problem. Oops the noise is the 4BD1 isn't it! :twisted:

isuzutoo-eh
30th July 2010, 03:48 PM
I know what the problem is - its dirty!

Clean all that crud off and the County wont know what's hit it.

It also won't move because it will think it's been bad, but that will save the noise problem. Oops the noise is the 4BD1 isn't it! :twisted:

You are, of course, correct. However, I frequently get underneath it with a screw driver and scrape 25 years of grime and adventure from its nether regions. I just do small areas at a time :)

dobbo
30th July 2010, 04:50 PM
You will never have a problem with sand if you are OC about a clean car, both on the body, inside and underneath. A quick blast at car lovers will do nothing. Put a soaker hose under it for 12hrs and watch the crud drop. Although sand is ruthless, mud is worse. If you don't clean it expect to be replacing uni's every 6 to 12 months.

FME when one uni is dead expect the others to be not too far behind, replace them all.

AFFS when you clean it, grease them uni's up like you would a dwarf in an air conditioning duct.

clean32
30th July 2010, 06:41 PM
You will never have a problem with sand if you are OC about a clean car, both on the body, inside and underneath. A quick blast at car lovers will do nothing. Put a soaker hose under it for 12hrs and watch the crud drop. Although sand is ruthless, mud is worse. If you don't clean it expect to be replacing uni's every 6 to 12 months.

FME when one uni is dead expect the others to be not too far behind, replace them all.

AFFS when you clean it, grease them uni's up like you would a dwarf in an air conditioning duct.

Dobbo, you need to be a bit more informative, you only need to grease fat dwarfs