will this part fit ?

[digger]

parts from other vehicles sometimes fit (or are the same) as land rover especially series ones. This is just a spot to list interchangeable S1 parts..

like the tractor lights that can be replacement butler lights on early series 1's.

steering wheels notoriously crack etc
this one isnt perfect but wondering would it fit? (56-58 my particular interest)
(if so it may be a source of a "temp" replacement for a while!)
MORRIS MINOR 1000 1956-58 STEERING WHEEL - eBay Other, Suspension, Steering, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 24-Aug-10 23:45:24 AEST) (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=180486680409)

cheers
digger

add anything you think may be of assistance to anyone re: early series.

[digger]

the thread referring to butler lights replacement

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/67653-cheaper-5-inch-butler-lights-behind-grill.html?highlight=butler+lights

[digger]

D lights etc and globes

Page Title (http://www.classicandvintagebulbs.com/)

and

rear | lamps | Vintage Car Parts (http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/list+lamps~rear/)

[Landy Smurf]

thats not to bad of a price

[digger]

yeah I actually like the look of the "D" lights, I reckon I may go a pair of
these in black for the series 1...

pork pie lights are too hard to get and others are all plastic so I prefer these...

cheers
digger

[groucho]

Those D lights are ok i bought a set off those people a few years ago.
Nice people to deal with too








https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1358.jpg

[groucho]

Glass lense too.....






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1309.jpg

[Lotz-A-Landies]

yeah I actually like the look of the "D" lights, I reckon I may go a pair of
these in black for the series 1...

pork pie lights are too hard to get and others are all plastic so I prefer these...

cheers
diggerThe "D" lamps were most certainly fitted to '54 models and the type with the bar (as depicted above) continued to be fitted in Aus when the UK had to change to the single "D" without bar very early.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1346.jpg

[digger]

The "D" lamps were most certainly fitted to '54 models and the type with the bar (as depicted above) continued to be fitted in Aus when the UK had to change to the single "D" without bar very early.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1346.jpg

I reckon chrome would look a bit dicky on a series?

but other than pork pies theyre as close as I getting!

INTERESTED IN SUGGESTIONS FOR REAR INDICATORS?
Im thinking yellow led's into parker at front..

[chazza]

INTERESTED IN SUGGESTIONS FOR REAR INDICATORS?
Im thinking yellow led's into parker at front..

I am as well - I think it would be possible to fit orange/red LED discs inside the D-lamp but I am so far removed from doing it that I haven't given it much thought,

Cheers Charlie

[digger]

Glass lense too.....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1309.jpg




I am as well - I think it would be possible to fit orange/red LED discs inside the D-lamp but I am so far removed from doing it that I haven't given it much thought,

Cheers Charlie

Dont think that could work Charlie, as the lens is glass and all tinted red, And I believe its top=stop and bottom=tail (and numberplate) light.

yellow led wont make a difference enough to work as orange (I dont think - but am open for correction?)

anyone else worked out something that will look "right" as indicators at the back of s1?

digger

[chazza]

Good point Digger!

Shine a yellow light behind it and see what happens - or I can this weekend and report back.

Alternatively; the normal globe can be converted to flash red when the indicator is on - I remember seeing this on early Holdens when I was a nipper. The disadvantage of that is that the brake light will overpower the flashing tail light,

Cheers Charlie

[JDNSW]

While not original, it should be remembered that many Series 1 Landrovers were fitted with a variety of different aftermarket turn indicators.

John

[Tote]

I reckon the series 2/3 indicators look OK and are a conversion that would have been done in the 60's /70's
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1301.jpg

Regards,
Tote

[digger]

if going that way wouldnt it be better to go same as front parkers (eg flatter lens with chrome ring?) so that they "sort of" match. I have seen them...somewhere...(i think.... :) )

[Tote]

I agree, chrome rings would be better, those were just some I found to illustrate the type I meant.
Regards,
Tote

[digger]

Quoting MILDRED frm another thread,

"Found this link to the exact same mirrors that I bought for my series one, 20 years ago when in the UK.
Very good quality and mine still look like new, after washing the Piwe poo off them this season, so have a look, but they cost more than the 8 pounds that I paid at the time.Time moves on and so do costs....

The link is Land Rover Series 1-2a Guard Mount Mirror - eBay Boots, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Sep-10 15:35:30 AEST)"

[digger]

from uk website

Ive got an 88, my old steering box sezed...years ao....and at the time i put a later box and shaft in. Obviously my wheel steering wheel didnt fit. In the intervening years I've lost the wheel. Can i fit a series 2 chrome spoked wheel and what are the different shaft diameters, anyone got a suitable wheel, anyone want trafficators and brackets?
Incidentally, when were trafficators fitted. I dont remember them being on my vehicle originally.
Thanks for any info.
If it is a series 3 steering column an early morris minor steering wheel will fit and does look similar to the original but is more dished shaft diameter is 3/4 of an inch.

The early series 2s have the same box and steering wheel as the 88 inch series one


just in case someone needs it!

[digger]

Dating Tri-Plex glass (From - MGB & GT Forum)
TRIPLEX DATE CODING

TRIPLEX windows manufactured in the 1950's through the late 1970's can be dated with the 'TRIPLEX CODE' etched into the toughened glass.

Assuming that your car has the original glass, it can be used to fairly accurately date your car.

If you know the decade your car was produced, just look for two dots in the TRIPLEX logo on the glass.

One dot above T, R, E, or X gives the quarter of the year the glass was manufactured:

T is Jan, Feb, March, R is April, May, June, E is July Aug, Sept, and X stands for Oct, Nov, Dec.

To find the year of manufacture, look at the nine letters in the word TOUGHENED. One dot below a letter gives the year of the decade: T is 1, O is 2, U is 3, etc. If there is no dot, the year is a zero.

This code also works if you have a TRIPLEX window with the word LAMINATED instead of TOUGHENED.
Edit: This has been rewritten to incorporate Paul's information.

Jan 13, 2009 17:59:35


Jan 14, 2009 06:24:14
PaulM
Thanks Chris.

My 70 B's were built in Jan. 69 & Dec. 70

The windshield on the yellow one must be original but it has the word laminated instead of toughened, Still works though with nine letters also.

On the side vents on one of the cars and the windshield I have ONE dot below the E and TWO dots below the X. Still works though.

[digger]

CHECK THIS OUT!!
I'M A TAD EXCITED ABOUT THIS... PORK PIE REPLICAS IN CHROME AND MORE IMPORTANTLY ALSO IN BLACK FINISH...40POUNDS EACH!!

Reproduction black/chrome Lucas ST38 ‘Pork-Pie’

lighthttp://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/377

BUT EVEN BETTER..

THEY HAVE A COMBINED STOP/TAIL AND INDICATOR ONE!! THIS MAY SOLVE
THE DILEMA ABOUT FITTING EXTRA TAIL LIGHTS OR BINKERS!

LOOK HALF WAY DOWN ON LEFT SIDE OF PAGE..
(55 POUNDS)



ANYONE USED/SEEN THESE BEFORE?

DIGGER

[mildred]

CHECK THIS OUT!!
I'M A TAD EXCITED ABOUT THIS... PORK PIE REPLICAS IN CHROME AND MORE IMPORTANTLY ALSO IN BLACK FINISH...40POUNDS EACH!!

Reproduction black/chrome Lucas ST38 ‘Pork-Pie’

http://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/377

BUT EVEN BETTER..

THEY HAVE A COMBINED STOP/TAIL AND INDICATOR ONE!! THIS MAY SOLVE
THE DILEMMA ABOUT FITTING EXTRA TAIL LIGHTS OR BLINKERS!

LOOK HALF WAY DOWN ON LEFT SIDE OF PAGE..
(55 POUNDS)



ANYONE USED/SEEN THESE BEFORE?

DIGGER
They look wonderfully finished, would complement any landie, the weight might make the postage a bit pricey, unless buying other items to!

[mildred]

Dating Tri-Plex glass (From - MGB & GT Forum)
TRIPLEX DATE CODING

TRIPLEX windows manufactured in the 1950's through the late 1970's can be dated with the 'TRIPLEX CODE' etched into the toughened glass.

Assuming that your car has the original glass, it can be used to fairly accurately date your car.

If you know the decade your car was produced, just look for two dots in the TRIPLEX logo on the glass.

One dot above T, R, E, or X gives the quarter of the year the glass was manufactured:

T is Jan, Feb, March, R is April, May, June, E is July Aug, Sept, and X stands for Oct, Nov, Dec.

To find the year of manufacture, look at the nine letters in the word TOUGHENED. One dot below a letter gives the year of the decade: T is 1, O is 2, U is 3, etc. If there is no dot, the year is a zero.

This code also works if you have a TRIPLEX window with the word LAMINATED instead of TOUGHENED.
Edit: This has been rewritten to incorporate Paul's information.

Jan 13, 2009 17:59:35


Jan 14, 2009 06:24:14
PaulM
Thanks Chris.

My 70 B's were built in Jan. 69 & Dec. 70

The wind-shield on the yellow one must be original but it has the word laminated instead of toughened, Still works though with nine letters also.

On the side vents on one of the cars and the wind-shield I have ONE dot below the E and TWO dots below the X. Still works though.

If you have the word LEDGEND on your forehead, would the same rules apply? ;)

[dennisS1]

Nice and bright, but nothing like the Pork pie lights used on S1, sorry.
Dennis

[digger]

:confused:


If you have the word LEDGEND on your forehead, would the same rules apply? ;)


Ke? :confused:

[digger]

Nice and bright, but nothing like the Pork pie lights used on S1, sorry.
Dennis



Bugger, I thought it was getting closer!:mad:

(still closer again than replica D lamps?)

[d@rk51d3]

Reported

[digger]

---copy of removed spam now removed!! SUFFICE TO SAY 'BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH DODGY LINK TO SOME PORN BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH DODGY LINK TO VIAGRA BLAH BLAH BLAH BLAH DODGY LINK ETC ETC BLAH BLAH'. (THANKS TO THE MODS FOR THE FAST ACTION!)

thanks but no thanks - reported:mad:

[Timj]

Bugger, I thought it was getting closer!:mad:

(still closer again than replica D lamps?)

I thought the black ones actually looked like they are very like the series ones. The chrome ones seem to be a different shape.

According to the James Taylor book they should be a type 518 and I have not been able to find any details about them.

TimJ.

[russellrovers]

Nice and bright, but nothing like the Pork pie lights used on S1, sorry.
Dennis
hi dennis you are right no comparison atall these have been on the market for at least 5 years and are seen mostly on hot rods in uk jim

[digger]

hi dennis you are right no comparison atall these have been on the market for at least 5 years and are seen mostly on hot rods in uk jim

as said before, these or D light replicas for rear of s1 (in my case '56) until someone finds that secret cache of genuine pork pie lights? which do you think, Dennis?, Jim? cheers

[chris1983rangie]

Hi, what about goin to few car show or hot rod swap meets?
i have seen some good stuff over the years mostly D lamps especially the glass lenses, but now seems deminished as to finding good deals like from years back. times are changed

does everyone know here about ebay Maylaysia? search for Land Rover Series 1 - NOS stuff comes up every now and then and the occasional Pork Pie Lights & twin LR oil temp gauges too.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/matchless1954/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=


This is a good thread thanks,
Chris

[digger]

Hi, what about goin to few car show or hot rod swap meets?
i have seen some good stuff over the years mostly D lamps especially the glass lenses, but now seems deminished as to finding good deals like from years back. times are changed

does everyone know here about ebay Maylaysia? search for Land Rover Series 1 - NOS stuff comes up every now and then and the occasional Pork Pie Lights & twin LR oil temp gauges too.

http://motors.shop.ebay.com/matchless1954/m.html?_nkw=&_armrs=1&_from=&_ipg=


This is a good thread thanks,
Chris

the d light replicas are good but obviously Id like the proper looking pork pie lights, cheers re ebay malaysia!!

[ellard]

Hi there Digger

The re-production "D" lights are made in Adelaide......

Wayne

[dennisS1]

Getting the 518 type lens is the problem, you can buy the base kits form the S1 club UK or they would not be hard to make, the Al ring that holds the lens to the sloping pie sides I have made and I think with a bit of effort I could produce the sloping side bit to.
Dennis

[digger]

thats encouraging..

searches bring sites like this which have some cool stuff (check out the number plate bolt lights!!) and D light replicas and what they refer to as PORK PIE lights... the search was under this

"518 pork pie light"

Stafford Vehicle Components - Rear Lights (http://www.s-v-c.co.uk/lights_rear.html)

the search continues...

cheers

[Tote]

The series 1 club sell complete lights to members for 100 pounds each. Bit expensive for a light although thats the price you pay for a small production run I guess.

Regards,
Tote

[Scallops]

NOS Parts to rebuilt a 1956 water pump....

http://img715.imageshack.us/img715/4416/img7329h.jpg (http://img715.imageshack.us/i/img7329h.jpg/)

Available from....

Land Rover Parts, Landrover Parts - Genuine Land Rover spares and parts, Auckland, New Zealand (http://www.landroverparts.co.nz/)

[digger]

The bearing in the series 1 water pump is a generic bearing used in many many other vehicles . It has the impeller end turned down a bit , thats all .

You can buy a 5/8" shaft bearing from a bearing retailer , and turn down one end .

Yes, the new bearings do vary in quality .... some are crap . The older ones as supplied in NOS kits are the best . Chevy e.g., kits, made in the 40's and 50's normally have good bearings , but be carefull as the lubricant inside them can be 'dried up'.

I bought a new bearing years ago and it lasted about a week .. crap made in Taiwan .

MIKE

(in scallops waterpump thread!)

[digger]

INDIAN SOLEX CARBIES
________________________________________
I have one of these fitted on my 2 litre motor and it runs very well.. for just over $100 US its so cheap. Why bother rebuilding an original when these are available ... brand new .

I modified the throttle linkage on it slightly .I used the L head version.. made for the Willys L head motor CJ 2 and WW2 Jeep .....The F head version isnt suitable for a series 1 motor I think.

I removed the high air inlet horn and the choke cable fits in from a different angle , but no problem at all. Various vendors in the US sell them , the prices vary wildly from 125 up to 160 .
Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17701.01 Carburetor Solex Design L-Head for Jeep: Automotive


Amazon.com: Omix-Ada 17701.01 Carburetor Solex Design L-Head for Jeep: Automotive




Carburetors Parts and Kits

MIKE*************************
few pics

CAEVEAT .. these carbies dont have a port for the vacuum advance . it seems to run OK without . . the vacuum advance mostly affects the low speed timing anyway ..

MIKE*************************
re: Indian SOLEX I have discovered its a relatively easy job to drill and tap a 6mm hole for the vacuum advance fitting on the carby side.. there is a brass plug provided for the fitting .

I read up on the original Lucas dissy specs . On the original 1954 dissy 0n my 2 litre , the mechanical advance doesn't kick in until 1500 revs, so its very necessary to have the vacuum advance working to achieve the zoom aspect from take off.

MIKE

in thread called INDIAN SOLEX CARBY

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/110866-indian-solex-carbies.html

(surprise re the thread name!! great for search etc)

[Scallops]

Just found (and bought) a Series 1 water pump seal - Petrol, 1948-58 from John Craddock....

John Craddock LTD - SEAL FOR WATER PUMP SERIES 1 - 239855 (http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/239855_seal_for_water_pump_series_1.php)

[digger]

(Thanks Series1Buff)

re: Indian SOLEX I have discovered its a relatively easy job to drill and tap a 6mm hole for the vacuum advance fitting on the carby side.. there is a brass plug provided for the fitting .

I read up on the original Lucas dissy specs . On the original 1954 dissy 0n my 2 litre , the mechanical advance doesn't kick in until 1500 revs, so its very necessary to have the vacuum advance working to achieve the zoom aspect from take off.

MIKE

************************************************** *
fix

--------------------------------------------------------------------------The saga continues , but now all sorted. I found the correct location for the vacuum port . You can see where they made a spot for it , in the casting . I carefully drilled a 2mm hole and it came out just above the throttle butterfly ....

The following happens : As the butterfly opens slightly from the idling position, it exposes the vacuum line port to the distributor, pulling the advance around . In the idling situation, the butterfly is closed and the vacuum port isn't exposed and the timing is retarded, this is also important for a static hand crank starting situation , broken fingers e.g.

MIKE

[digger]

referring to front indicators on series 1.



Hi All
The fronts are a twin mini globe in a twin socket available through Tony Pearson (Classic Globes) cars before 1960 something had white front indicator lamps the other element is the parking light.

the rear ones must be orange, nothing will work through a red lens and show orange.

You can not show a white light at the rear of a vehicle, must be orange.
The rear is a orange classic type also from the above it mounts flat, only 2 mounting holes and a small hole and grommet for the wire.

He also has period reflectors, look the same as the original as used on L/R
cheers
Ian

[digger]

referring to everything!


lots of info here : http://www.series123.com/repairs_B.html

[digger]

great catalogue, has all sorts of bits, including "flat backed" domed indicators that look ideal for a S1. (in my humble opinion) also indicator arms etc etc etc

I have been looking through the catalogue from this business

Car Builder Solutions Ltd. Kit car parts. Spares and accessories for the car builder enthusiast. (http://carbuildersolutions.co.uk/cbs_products_index.htm)

They have a "period" type indicator switch, which might be suitable. For me the solution of where to put it on an 80" is the biggest hurdle,

Cheers Charlie

[digger]

Good thread re: fuels to use and tips for same

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/117018-premium-unleaded.html

[digger]

we put one of these on a 24 garford firetruck (6v) and it eliminates need for 'flasher cans' etc in wiring... runs @ 20 secs as it winds back to centre, during this 'points' in the set open and close (hence the blinking as required!) works up to 12v too

works well, can be mounted through a panel..

mechanical flasher unit :: Vintage Car Parts (http://www.vintagecarparts.co.uk/en/1702~mechanical+flasher+unit-details/)

cheers
digger