"Oliver" another 130 HCPU trailer build (idea inspired buy discowhite's)

[cucinadio]

Hi Guys and Gals

Have been after one of these for a long time ..so jumped at the chance to get one from a fellow aulroarian for a song ..to build my camper ...will post plenty of pics but also would enjoy your comment along the way ...

So to start a few of the new toy the day it was picked up by a friend and delivered to me on the gold coast so i could haul it back to Hervey Hicksville ..the next day

130 HCPU Tub in very good nick

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1461.jpg https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1462.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1463.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1464.jpg

[cucinadio]

got some new lights of ebay belive it or not ..oem....for A$5.22 each...bbbaaarrggaaannn

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1459.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1460.jpg


cheers

[cucinadio]

managed to get some rims 16's for Oliver yesterday...and some S/H coopers ...should goes nicely ..odrded the hubs and beraings tonight so should be here next week ....clenaed up the axle today 50x50x5shs....running holden stub axles, well strong enought if not over kill but rather be sure than not ...eched and ready for a final coat of black tomorrow.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1456.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1457.jpghttps://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1458.jpg



cheers

[cucinadio]

AT35 hitch ,,, check .. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1455.jpg

cheers

[roverrescue]

Since you are using stub axles I would be tempted to upsize from "Holden" size bearings.

In my experience the small outer bearing fails all too quicky when loaded up with 16" rims and heavy tyres. Ford slimline would be the absolute minimum that I would use on what will end up being a relatively heavy trailer...

Better still go to a wrecker and scalp the front hubs n stubs from a 75series or 80series to go with those wheels you have. You will then have a stub axle to bolt onto your axle with full size hubs and bearings?

You mentioned that your axle is 50SHS 5mm wall. Are you running leaf springs on this trailer?

Steve

[cucinadio]

Since you are using stub axles I would be tempted to upsize from "Holden" size bearings.

In my experience the small outer bearing fails all too quicky when loaded up with 16" rims and heavy tyres. Ford slimline would be the absolute minimum that I would use on what will end up being a relatively heavy trailer...

Better still go to a wrecker and scalp the front hubs n stubs from a 75series or 80series to go with those wheels you have. You will then have a stub axle to bolt onto your axle with full size hubs and bearings?

You mentioned that your axle is 50SHS 5mm wall. Are you running leaf springs on this trailer?

Steve


yes l just found today that the stubs are old Holden's and i will be changing them or for stubs welded into the tube instead to suit ......yes I'm using leaf's ?

cheers

[cucinadio]

Rims ....Cleaned up and sprayed, hammertone with the addition of black enamel ....basically a few shades darker than the tray will be http://myswag.org/forum/Smileys/classic/huh.gif

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1321.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1322.jpg

[cucinadio]

Well what a day...the BIL and i got stuck into the chassis today.....nice work for a day i say... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/


Tacked out the main chassis then seem welded all the joins ... and my first go at for real "holy crap" this is for real weilding..lol...oh and BTW, gee this aust steel is good stuff, using 50x50x5 SHS and the hole frame didn't even buckle a twing.....or must just be that I'm a brilliant welder!!!.. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1317.jpg



lining him all up ...nice fit....love when a plan comes together... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1318.jpg

Springs, and central draw bar tack in ...decided to go for the draw bar on bottom of the chassis rather than butted up on front of the front bar as previously planed, after some discussion (read procrastination) felt it would be a lot stronger, so did this with the side bars as well ....the draw bar is 240 to the center on the tow hitch so worked to plan...need the space becuse i have single barn style door and i want to be able to open the rear when the trailer is on, also im not the best backer!!.. http://myswag.org/forum/Smileys/classic/embarrassed.gif

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1319.jpg
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1320.jpg


as in previous post im swaping the axle out for a new one ....


cheers

[HBWC]

i'm watching closely as i'm going to do something similar with a yota tub

[cucinadio]

i'm watching closely as i'm going to do something similar with a yota tub


nice ...cant wait to see it, should come up well...:D


cheers

[HBWC]

the idea is to put the toyota in it's place















being dragged along by a land rover

[roverrescue]

50SHS5 is a reasonable chassis choice, certainly will take a hiding!... but maybe need to give the draw bar more verticle support. Just to limit flex and fatigue in the A-frame and draw. You could either increase verticle section size (100x50) or perhaps run some ladder bracing using 16mm round bar?

Im not in love with your choice of springs but you will learn ;)

Its nice to see another trailer project coming together!

If I wasnt so lazy Id take some photos of the triangulated 4link boat trailer I glued together this morning!!!

S

[cucinadio]

well i couldn't sit still today, my trailer was beckoning me..lol..........

new axle in, and bolted on the tub for a little look see .....fits really well...but did find that the tub wasn't quite square.. http://myswag.org/forum/Smileys/classic/angry.gif, so had to do some fine adjustments to sit it on the chassis right , but all good and very happy


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1290.jpg
added the axle and fitted the 265 rubber, same as the truck ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1291.jpg

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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1293.jpg


all coming to plan within the mm..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

[cucinadio]

Had some more fun today....hitch plate and jockey wheel in place, will all come off for painting, so decided try it on for size and line...found that there is a little to much flex for my liking (read only a little, but will need to beef up the center bar for the planed additions on the draw bar) He is going to need some weight, atm he's like a mouse on a hot coal box...we loaded it up with a few 100 plus kg persons and basically squashed the mouse ..but it early day yet....still need to add draw bar box spare wheel, Jerri's and all the pieces back together ... other than that he is exactly has i planed atm.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1215.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1216.jpg

Love the way he stands behind the truck....look even better than l hoped.. https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1218.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1219.jpg

cheers

[cucinadio]

Took him for a spin and decided to test out the turning circle.....the disco isn't know for a good turning circle, so didn't want it limited buy the addition of a trailer that was limited buy its turning circle as well...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1213.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1214.jpg

cheers

[roverrescue]

If you want to brace up the 50SHS vertically then the easiest solution will be building a ladder from M16 rod beneath the two A-frame lengths. Space them 100mm from the underside of the 50SHS with ladders at 600 centres. Run the ladders from hitch plate all the way to spring hangers.

The whole "mouse on a hot coal box" is a function of the short overall length leaf springs. It just is the way that it is... The solutions are many and varied but none of them include what the "trailer industry" consider standard!!!!! Show me a vehicle with a front or rear axle load that weighs ~750kg that is using a leaf spring that measures ~800mm in length. That should give you some clues as to the suitability of short leaves for load carrying and handling. Sure it "works" by keeping the wheels from hitting the guards but then again some would argue that a big mac is a nutritious meal?

Either way mate you are having fun and learning. The overall design looks good and the trailer will serve you well until its failings will guide you towards "Mk II" which is always an improvement!!!!!

Steve

[cucinadio]

Did a bit more today, welded in some hangers to protect the corners of the tub ......

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1145.jpg

also gave the tub a clean up and gave it a lashing of underbody paint to tidy it up and to give some more protection.....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/1146.jpg

Cheers

[cucinadio]

A bit more done today......as said a few days ago we strengthened up the draw bar buy adding in another piece of 50x50 tabbed in and seem welded at intervals of every 500 or so ....has worked a treat, once again, thanks for the advice on this ..

welded up the frame for the draw bar box and reinforced mount for the spare....the whole box will be clad in al tread plate and door will be as the same as the previous idea above out of 4mm tread plate .....got a hold of a three jerry can rack for the front of the box and, will have to post a pick when we get there ..... onto cladding on the weekend and then clean up, and on to painting...also added the bike rack hitch to the rear of the trailer for the kids bikes, ..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/28.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/29.jpg

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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/08/31.jpg

cheers

[roverrescue]

Been waiting for your update! Coming together now and looking good!
I like you design of front box, nice lines and will prevent hangups at the front of the box when winding amongst tight tracks.

Hope Im not too rude but a couple of suggestions.

-Buddying up the 50SHS has helped but you still may have fatigue issues where the second SHS tapers, as well as where the outer arms flex at the tub.. M16 roundbar is stupidly cheap, run a length 100mm away from each of the outer rails on the underside from the spring hanger all the way to the hitch plate. Will give good flexion support and they double as skids if you ever have to drag the trailer with no jocky. See dodgy paint drawing for the idea.

-Your 25SHS box and wheel carrier may need some triangulation despite the relatively thick cladding. Id be running a diagonal brace from each lower corner to the wheel support centre upper corner. And then depending on door design and compartments some diagnonals from front to back. Otherwise all the bracing will be a function of your cladding fixation which if you use say Sika and M6 through bolts may be okay but diagonals from 2SHS will be cheaper! Then you can just rivet the panels on?

[cucinadio]

Been waiting for your update! Coming together now and looking good!
I like you design of front box, nice lines and will prevent hangups at the front of the box when winding amongst tight tracks.

Hope Im not too rude but a couple of suggestions.

-Buddying up the 50SHS has helped but you still may have fatigue issues where the second SHS tapers, as well as where the outer arms flex at the tub.. M16 roundbar is stupidly cheap, run a length 100mm away from each of the outer rails on the underside from the spring hanger all the way to the hitch plate. Will give good flexion support and they double as skids if you ever have to drag the trailer with no jocky. See dodgy paint drawing for the idea.

-Your 25SHS box and wheel carrier may need some triangulation despite the relatively thick cladding. Id be running a diagonal brace from each lower corner to the wheel support centre upper corner. And then depending on door design and compartments some diagnonals from front to back. Otherwise all the bracing will be a function of your cladding fixation which if you use say Sika and M6 through bolts may be okay but diagonals from 2SHS will be cheaper! Then you can just rivet the panels on?

Mate thanks for the advice, much appreciated

am procrastinating over more bracing for the box, thinking of running a few pieces of angel iron to the front and rear of the box to add a shelf through the middle of it this may give it some more bracing??...the tyre mount has a piece of 8mm steel plate between the two bars running front to rear of the mount and the tub mount has been modded to bolt through the cladding and the plate .... i see you point about the draw bar, but I'm going to give it a run and see how she holds up, I'm 130kg, my BIL is 100 and my younger bro is 120..we all stood on the draw bar after the bracing was done and it didn't more and cm ...so failing the trial ....ill probably add you idea in at a later date ....

cheers

[roverrescue]

- a centre rail will add very little for structural rigidity to the box - you need triangulation!!!!! Tieing the box to the tub will help in its rigidity when static but as the draw bar IS going to flex it will actually put more load on the box and may lead to failure?

- the issue is going to come back to the draw bar ;) a static load of 350kg is nadda compared to a 749kg trailer flexing on three sections of 50SHS bouncing down the road. To test this flexing, remove the front box, fill the tub with a few hundred kg then get someone to tow the trailer whilst you drive alongside the trailer (somewhere safe and preferable mildly uneven road surface) You will be amazed at the amount of flex that will set itself up at the junction between drawbar and box in a dynamic situation.

Flexing in and of itself is not a bad thing (steel can be used in its elastic range), you can make a trailer too rigid BUT in my experience for offroad trailers its best to control flex in the suspension rather than at the aframe.

Persoanlly I would traingulate the box making it essentially a self supporting structure attach it to the draw bar with 30mm of clearance to the tub and then run the ladder frame under the SHS. Then after using it for a season and learning - Mk2 will use softer suspension :)

Steve

[cucinadio]

Got a Bit more done on the weekend....not happy a the mo, my disco decided to spit its guts and Ive blow a head ....(not to self ..buy a cheaper truck to fix!!!!!... http://myswag.org/forum/Smileys/classic/cry.gif....anyway after some advise i decided to triangulate the box with a few corner supports and a two more floor and roof supports

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1594.jpg

......got all the alu tread plat cut to size for cladding the box....(after cutting, a few tips, always cut this stuff with a metal aluminum circular or jig saw cutting blade, and when cleaning the edges up use a flapper disk working back wards rather than the normal forward motion on steel)......clad the box today (rivets and silicon) managed to get a hold of a jerry can holder of an old trailer, will mod it to accommodate two Jerrie's as in last few picks the front jerry box....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1595.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1596.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1597.jpg

[roverrescue]

Trailers looking good! Bugger about the disco...
That box, with the cladding should do the job.

For cutting Al sheet I run the 1mm discs on a 125mm grinder.

S

[cucinadio]

Trailers looking good! Bugger about the disco...
That box, with the cladding should do the job.

For cutting Al sheet I run the 1mm discs on a 125mm grinder.

S


Thanks for the advice mate, ....yhea the cutting was done with a alu cut off circ saw blade...cutting was no worries , it was getting used to cleaning the edges up that took a bit to work out for the first time ...

[cucinadio]

Bit more done today...pushing it now https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ ..only one week left to get it painted and rego'd...

Welded the box into place .....modifyed the jerry can holder to take two in stead of three..like it better this way came up well i thought

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1462.jpg

added a few upright stems to take the future stone guard ...the jerry box is bolted in via angel mounts along the drawbar..

excuse the editing... http://myswag.org/forum/Smileys/classic/rolleyes.gif
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1463.jpg

trimmed the doors, cut out the holes for the compression locks and welded the hinges in place...have bolted the doors on the hinges with ss bolts and nilock nuts.....
https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1464.jpg


has come up well i thought .....the tow ball weight with the box, spare and Jerry's full of water (with the tub on !!) is 60kg, only leaves another 60 to be over the recommended weight for my tow gear....should fine, surprisingly well balanced ....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1465.jpg

removed the tub for cleaning up and painting tomorrow, will do the chassis first and the tube second , the box will be all painted the same color as the tub and chassis ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1466.jpg


Cheers

[dullbird]

Looking tops!! :cool:

[cucinadio]

Looking tops!! :cool:


cheers , now all i need is a truck to tow it !!!!....;)

[cucinadio]

Echprimed undercoat done...will do the tub tomorrow and then paint all on weds....... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1299.jpg

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https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1303.jpg

echprimed the jerry holder cameup well, thanks to the BIL

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1304.jpg

Cheers

[cucinadio]

Etch primed the tub today, pics were taken half way through the first coat....

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1258.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1259.jpg

had a big dent in the tailgate that l wouldn't have got out unless l had taken the the tail gate apart losing the original press rivets, didn't really want to do that so l trimmed a piece of checker tread plate and riited it into the gate, had to tap the bottom edge to a 45 degree angel to roll off the bottom to the edge of the panel in the gate....(thanks Bro).....came up a treat, the license plate light and plate will be attached on the left had side ...
one down side was that ive gorn to remover the tailgate rubber pinch weld seal and the stuff just fell apart ... >:(, so will have to replace it.... not happy Jane!!!!,

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1260.jpg

cheers

[cucinadio]

Final coat done ...came up a treat, very happy.............. thanks to the BIL'S painting skills....

now for the putting back together, lights, wireing, hitch bolted back on and get it back on its skates....

a few picks of the finished ..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1128.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1129.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1130.jpg

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The base of the tub will be clad in rhino seal at a later date,, so didnt give it a real hard coat....but all in all the bil did a fantastic job, thanks mate

cheers

[The ho har's]

I do like the colour.....top job to BIL:D


Mrs hh:angel:

[cucinadio]

Final coat done ...came up a treat, very happy.............. thanks to the BIL'S painting skills....

now for the putting back together, lights, wireing, hitch bolted back on and get it back on its skates....

a few picks of the finished ..

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1128.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1129.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1130.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1131.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1132.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1133.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1134.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1135.jpg

The base of the tub will be clad in rhino seal at a later date,, so didnt give it a real hard coat....but all in all the bil did a fantastic job, thanks mate

cheers

[cucinadio]

Well talk about full steam ahead, we had ea spurt of energy today and tried to finish off what we could, must be keen to get it on the road.....rego tomorrow after my Bil hooks up the lights , and give everything another tighten over....

bolted the hitch back on, bolted down the jerry can holder, bolted the jockey wheel back on and bolted the spare mount down ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1123.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1124.jpg

attached some heavy duty mud flaps, might need chain to bring them back a bit ,haven't decided as yet...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1125.jpg

Bolted the tail steps back in ,and the Bil spent time putting as he call them ..the boo-bi lights...together and attached the reflectors and light inserts, fidely work so thanks Bro...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1126.jpg


https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1127.jpg
http://myswag.org/forum/Themes/EnglishSteel/images/icons/modify_inline.gif

[The ho har's]

Coming along nicely.....how did you go with the light wiring??

Mrs hh:angel:

[cucinadio]

worked on the pinch weld for the doors...found that to get the pinch weld to come around smothly, l needed to cut a 45degree round corner of the right angel (thanks for the advice recived in my thread on this issue in the general section) worked really well ..... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1090.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1091.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1092.jpg

finished the doors (thanks sis for your help) and inserted the compression locks....very happy with the finish... https://www.aulro.com/afvb/

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1093.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1094.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1095.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1096.jpg

cheers

[cucinadio]

because we planed ahead, running the wiring was a pop, went thought the center of pre drilled hole in the front of the draw bar and ran straight up the middle of the draw bar made it a whole lot nicer finish ...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1083.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1084.jpg

dummy fit of the tail gate, will need to add the new seal tomorrow and bolt it in ....love the way it came up considering the big dent i had to deal with ....love the end look

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1085.jpg

thats almost it guys, a few more things to finish off, will take some more picks when she is on the road..... took a few love shots , hope you like

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1086.jpg
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[cucinadio]

Coming along nicely.....how did you go with the light wiring??

Mrs hh:angel:

No ...Not as yet ....the lights are all working, apart from the stop lights....they are alight but dont light briter when the brake is applied??, think it might be an earthing problem?, any ideas guys and gals??

Cheers

[bbyer]

I assume the stop light bulbs are either bulbs with a single filament of I think about 21 watts each, or bulbs having two filaments, where one filament is brighter than the other, the stop lamp filament being the 21 watt filament.

To check the trailer wiring, I would just apply +12VDC from a battery directly to the wire that is supposed to feed the stop light filaments; run the ground back to the battery so that you know you have a good circuit.

I presume that both stop light filaments will function properly so this probably means the solution is either with the ground between the trailer and the tow vehicle or the tow vehicle plug, (or trailer plug).

I expect the ground between trailer and tow vehicle is OK as you say that the other lights appear as they should.

The problem then comes down to how the brake lights are wired on the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Most EU spec brake lights are seperate filaments from the signal light filaments. Most North American spec vehicles share the signal light filaments with the brake lights. In other words, you will have either two brake lights on or one brake light and one signal light functioning at the same time with the NAS wiring setup.

If the trailer setup is different from the tow vehicle, then that can be a problem - not insurmountable, but a bit of a challenge.

If both the trailer and tow vehicle are wired the same, then the problem is probably in the conlectors, or at least solvable at the connectors - or it is just a ground thing with one of the trailer lights. I say one, as usually one bulb is ground OK and the other, not so, so that side of the circuit tends to act as a ground and things do not work very well but are hard to trace.

Also you might try different trailer bulbs as I have seen defective new bulbs and finding that is near impossible as the bulbs look good. This is the best first place to start - replace the bulbs as new defective is not uncommon given that most stuff comes from China now.

[cucinadio]

I assume the stop light bulbs are either bulbs with a single filament of I think about 21 watts each, or bulbs having two filaments, where one filament is brighter than the other, the stop lamp filament being the 21 watt filament.

To check the trailer wiring, I would just apply +12VDC from a battery directly to the wire that is supposed to feed the stop light filaments; run the ground back to the battery so that you know you have a good circuit.

I presume that both stop light filaments will function properly so this probably means the solution is either with the ground between the trailer and the tow vehicle or the tow vehicle plug, (or trailer plug).

I expect the ground between trailer and tow vehicle is OK as you say that the other lights appear as they should.

The problem then comes down to how the brake lights are wired on the tow vehicle and the trailer.

Most EU spec brake lights are seperate filaments from the signal light filaments. Most North American spec vehicles share the signal light filaments with the brake lights. In other words, you will have either two brake lights on or one brake light and one signal light functioning at the same time with the NAS wiring setup.

If the trailer setup is different from the tow vehicle, then that can be a problem - not insurmountable, but a bit of a challenge.

If both the trailer and tow vehicle are wired the same, then the problem is probably in the conlectors, or at least solvable at the connectors - or it is just a ground thing with one of the trailer lights. I say one, as usually one bulb is ground OK and the other, not so, so that side of the circuit tends to act as a ground and things do not work very well but are hard to trace.

Also you might try different trailer bulbs as I have seen defective new bulbs and finding that is near impossible as the bulbs look good. This is the best first place to start - replace the bulbs as new defective is not uncommon given that most stuff comes from China now.


Thanks mate, all came down to having to earth both stops rather than in a circuit if that makes sense, been running fine now on many different vehicles without issues....

cheers

[bbyer]

I forgot to mention how impressed I was with the end result.

When I looked at the pictures of what you started with, well, I kind of wondered.

There is quite a contrast between the before and after - a labour of love I would say. The checkerplate texture metal sheeting really does work well.

I do like the colour choice by the way - kind of classy and the checkerplate around the tail lights, impressive.

[Fish78]

Looks great, top work.

[cucinadio]

Would be great to figure out how to reinstate photo links .. I've paid the ransom to photo bucket but the link don't just reinstate themselves.

And can someone tell me why I'm unable to edit my posts in this thread ?

[incisor]

Would be great to figure out how to reinstate photo links .. I've paid the ransom to photo bucket but the link don't just reinstate themselves.

And can someone tell me why I'm unable to edit my posts in this thread ?

there is a time limit on editing your own posts....

if you want to go through the thread and sort your links out on older posts i can arrange something temporary for you...

[cucinadio]

there is a time limit on editing your own posts....

if you want to go through the thread and sort your links out on older posts i can arrange something temporary for you...

That would be great mate.. cheers