Engine mounts

[wayneg]

Whist having a serious dig around the engine bay to see if we could find the source of a cold start ticking Mike 90 rr spotted both my engine mounts are split right through. I just wondered if this is unusual as I cant recall anyone else bringing up the problem. I have ordered a new pair and will be fitting them along with new anti roll bar links
Mike tracked the ticking / rattle to the passenger side cat so I am now content that its nothing to worry over and explains why it goes as soon as the engine heats up.

[daljames]

The ticking, does it sound like its coming from a leak from an exhaust manifold gasket or closer to the cat?? Mine makes a noise like its a leaking gasket yet i cant smell anything and disappears when the car gets close to operating temp.

[wayneg]

The ticking, does it sound like its coming from a leak from an exhaust manifold gasket or closer to the cat?? Mine makes a noise like its a leaking gasket yet i cant smell anything and disappears when the car gets close to operating temp.

I was convinced it was a rocker or lifter but it was only audible when driving for a few minutes from cold then gone. Mike came around to have a good look as he has more experience with these things than I do plus I am going deaf. He though from the start it was a manifold blow but after taking the heat shields off and using a makeshift stethoscope could not track down the noise. Mike then got under the car with the Engine running with the scope and could pick up a rattle from the LH cat.

[Keithy P38]

Yeah I thought I had tappet issues too, but it's just the cat... Smooth as silk once warm, no noise apart from the viscous fan!

Cheers
Keithy

[wayneg]

Well I got my shiny new engine mounts in the post so today I had a go at replacement. The N/S one is pretty straight forward and was quite easy to remove and refit. The drivers side one is another matter. The bottom fixing are easily accessible but the top ones are a pig. I cannot see how to get at them. Rave says remove the lower steering column shaft but I cant see how that will help. My plan is to remove the inner wheel arch, undo the bottom mount bolts and hopefully by jacking the engine up I will be able to get at the bolts. Anyone done this? Tips?
The old mounts are well and truly knackered, below a couple of pics old and new

[wayneg]

This afternoon I had a go at the drivers side mount and managed to swap it over with all fingers intact. For future reference to aide others this is how I did the job.
Remove top radiator fan cowling.
Remove road wheel, put car on axle stands etc...
remove inner wheel arch.
undo the 2 lower engine mount nuts.
raise the drivers side of the engine gradually, I placed the factory bottle jack on the axle pushing the engine up ( a small flat piece of wood between engine and jack). Every few mm raised look through the air bag tower to see the engine mount upper nuts coming into view.
When you can get at the upper nuts remove both then continue raising the engine bit by bit checking nothing is getting caught up. The engine needs to be raised about 4 to 5 cms then the old mount can be wiggled out from below.
Refit new mount and get all 4 nuts on a couple of turns. This will entail lowering the engine a tiny bit at a time and getting all 4 studs through the mounting plates. Once all nuts are on lower the engine another 1cm and theN completely tighten the top 2 nuts. when these are tight the engine can be fully lowered and the bottom nuts tightened.
refit arch and wheel.
No need to remove the steering column as rave SAYS!
While I was under the car I also renewed the anti roll bar links
A few pics, it looks like there is a fair bit of room to work but remember the camera was tiny and could fit where I could not

[wayneg]

As i could only upload 5 pics before here are a couple of the new mount in situe and the old mount

[glenhendry]

Excellent. Thanks.

Notice any difference with the new mounts, or new sway bar links?

[wayneg]

As you can see my mounts were well and truly shot, after replacement tickover became nice and smooth where before there was a little vibration. The links made no apparent difference but are so cheap I did them anyway. I think the Mount gave up during driving the Halland Track where the car dropped into numerouse deep water filled holes

[glenhendry]

I replaced my passenger engine mount last night. I include details here for those interested.

Broken mount pic here (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/V0R7rE1s-RW9Zgfxx377klsGba8wgOjX31vHOwtcPJQ?feat=directlink ). Pic of accessing bolts here (https://picasaweb.google.com/lh/photo/l83S4culVP12JWItLVyPXFsGba8wgOjX31vHOwtcPJQ?feat=d irectlink). The old one was well and truly destroyed. No obvious symptoms from it though?

It took me two hours, but it felt like four. I got stuck a few times accessing bolts. I remove air intake duct and also the passenger side heat shield from the exhaust manifold - I am dreading putting it back on - so I havent yet.

I found as I lifted the engine gently it did not give me the clearance I needed to get the new one in. The old one fell out in pieces. What I discovered after much swearing was that a combination of engine lifting and EAS lowering (via MARS) was the key to making room for the new mount. After that it was easy.

Additionally, because the mount was broken it had cause the plate between the engine and the mount to become loose at the engine. To nip these bolts up, I had to remove the small clasp securing the oil heater pipes to the engine.

Sadly, the inspection before buying only one mount showed that my drivers side was fine, but when I was in there deep, it became clear that it is also busted. That's the next job after my LPG service Monday. Maybe I will just get him to do it :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1150.jpg

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2012/02/1151.jpg

[wayneg]

I dont see how you had problems getting at the NS mount. Mine was no issue and I never removed any other bits to get at it. Just wondering at what setting you had your EAS. I cant remember but I usually put in high mode before starting any works.
If you think the N/S was fun you will be even more amused with the drivers side. If you are going to pay some one to do it might I suggest you show them my write up with pics. I would not want to pay the labour involved removing the steering column as outlined in Rave.
I would not hesitate to do it again using the same method, just take your time and keep checking the back top of the engine is not catching anything.

[glenhendry]

I have a big LPG mixer, onboard air regulator and hot water exchanger under the bonnet in all the big spaces you were probably working in :)

The main problem was getting the torque on small spanner that could fit on the engine mount nuts without banging into the suspension turret. In the end, like in the picture, I used a very long socket extension and worked the ratchet in the space above the engine.