EGR Valve issues?

[sooly]

HI Guys and Girls,
I've developed an acceleration lag in my puma in between 1800 - 2200 revs, in all gears but is most noticable in 2nd and 3rd. I think Scallops had a similar issue about a month ago. I have been to the dealer who reset an engine sensor which did nothing. Has anyone else had this issue and had it repaired? If so what was it so I can return to the dealership with some knowledge of the issue?
Thanks

[Gav110]

Mate I've had it too. Have already had one replaced last week, but new one seems to have the same issue ! Is generating OBD fault code P0404.

Am driving it down to Melbourne next Monday so will see if that 'clears out the pipes' but have already booked it in for a second look at it when I get back :(

Given some of the feedback on Defender2.Net it seems the only reliable long term fix is to blank it off - something I don't really want to do esp while under warranty.

[sooly]

Hi Gav
thanks for the reply. Doesn't sound good. I talked to a mechanic mate of mine and he said if it's blanked off it will transmit a constant error code as it won't be detected by the ECU. I wonder if a fuel additive would clear the crap?

[Gav110]

No mate - you can get around that with one of the blanking kits made by the UK guys - which leaves just enough opening to avoid triggering the sensor.

Check out: Defender2 - View topic - Accelerating... (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic3833.html?highlight=egr)

and:

Defender2 - View topic - Stainless steel EGR blanking kits (http://www.defender2.net/forum/topic3115.html?highlight=blanks)

As for fuel additives - I spent $60 on 2 bottles of the strongest stuff I could find and it did nothing beyond give a short term octane boost.

Anyone locally fitted an EGR blanker?

[one_iota]

It must be a very variable thing...I'm at 40,000 km and 2 years without issue.

:confused:

Mostly city driving at 60km per day but with some freeway stuff and off road mixed in.

[Gav110]

There's clearly a **** batch of EGRs floating around hence why some are OK and some are cack, and I (joy of joy) have had 2 in a row... Same thing as the clutches, gearboxes and other notable examples of LR's appalling component quality. Gee I wish I'd bought a vehicle from a company which has been making drive trains based around the same basic body shape for 60 years - oh that's right, I did....

[dmdigital]

I have had a faulty EGR for almost 12 months now. I'm awaiting a new one to be fitted. I haven't experienced any lag as described and the Pumas done over 49,000km now.

I can't recommend enough putting silicon hoses on the Puma to smooth out acceleration. The difference is considerable as the intercooler hoses are so soft they expand under boost.

[3-Gees]

G'day sooly,just get rid of the egr valve,easy to do and there are many kits to choose from,did mine about a month ago (03 disco) and its a different car to drive and better on fuel!!Plenty of info on these forums,if your getting a driver demand fault code,its probably the pedal,also did mine and made a big difference,cheers!:)

[Allan]

G'day sooly,just get rid of the egr valve,easy to do and there are many kits to choose from,did mine about a month ago (03 disco) and its a different car to drive and better on fuel!!Plenty of info on these forums,if your getting a driver demand fault code,its probably the pedal,also did mine and made a big difference,cheers!:)

Oh the joy of a TD5. Not so easy on a Puma unfortunately, I wish. ECU doesn't like people fiddling. I know lots of people are trying in the UK but haven't heard if very successful without reprogram ECT.

Allan

[alittlebitconcerned]

Mine has been doing the same since i got it and no matter how many times I mention it to my stealership they always say the same... no fault detected. I will now go armed with the info in this thread and get the stupid thing fixed. Thank god for forums like this?

[sooly]

Thanks for the info guys. How does blanking off the EGR affect the warranty since I've got 2 years and 9 months left and no warranty extension, I need all I can get.

[one_iota]

Thanks for the info guys. How does blanking off the EGR affect the warranty since I've got 2 years and 9 months left and no warranty extension, I need all I can get.

Ask the dealer who will ask LRA?

They have every right not to honour a warranty on a failure proven to caused by a modification.

[Allan]

Thanks for the info guys. How does blanking off the EGR affect the warranty since I've got 2 years and 9 months left and no warranty extension, I need all I can get.

After the suspention/propshaft trouble povman had I would not change anything that will cause warrenty issues. If ARB had not come to the party it would have cost him $4500+. I would think egr mods would void warranty to the engine as does ecu mods if your caught. Big money for little gain.

Allan

[CapeLandy]

Found this amount of soot on the intake manifold pipe and looks like most of it was from the EGR system. My EGR valve was replaced under warenty last week and she runs much better now, no lag and less soot.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Puma%20110/Air%20Intake/Copy1ofIMG_0004.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Puma%20110/Air%20Intake/IMG_0001.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v427/Landy1973/Puma%20110/Air%20Intake/IMG_0005.jpg

[PAT303]

All of you do yourselves a favour and give your Puma's some welly.Modern T/D's don't like fluffing around at low revs,the EGR and particulate filters don't like soot so don't cruise around in high gear,go lower and give them a rev. Pat

[dullbird]

There must be an optimun speed that you can drive at, between going to slow for soot and going to fast for drive train failure..:lol2::p

[sooly]

Would'nt accelerating harder just supply the EGR with more carbon to deal with? I tried the 4th gear 100kph scenario. Didn't fix

[Marleydef110]

Every Landy mechanic ive spoken to has strongly advised disabling the EGR. They suggested either purchase Blanking Kit....expensive and unroadworthy.
Or to stick a screw into the ERGs small rubber hose... this disables it and as far as my TD5 is concerned will not interfere with the ECU.
Still unroadworthy but harder to spot.:eek:


Marley

[ugu80]

I found this about the Nissan engine on a patrol site. It might give some of you a few ideas. I hope it can help.
Nissan Patrol ZD30 Engine Problems.

These engines run relatively high boost levels and as clean diesel engines, they also use high levels of exhaust gas recirculation (EGR). This in turn reduces the amount of NOx released into the atmosphere and enables the vehicles to pass stringent emission standards.
One problem is that the high boost levels create high pressures in the crankcase which in turn pushes reasonable amounts of oil past the crankcase baffle and into the engines intake system. This oil finds its way into the intercooler and eventually into the inlet manifold, where it mixes with EGR gasses to form a thick black greasy substance that restricts the inlet manifold runners. In most cases the runners most affected are the rear ones, which are closest to the EGR valve itself.

The ZD30 engine management system relies on input signals from various engine sensors. The Engine Control Unit (ECU) determines fuel delivery (timing and duration) depending on input signals from the Mass Air Flow Sensor (MAF), Throttle Position Sensor (TPS) and engine speed. The volume of air entering the engine determines how much fuel is injected, but the ECU doesn’t monitor or have mixture control over each individual cylinder. The engine lacks an exhaust temperature sensor, so it can’t know if a particular cylinder is being over fuelled or running rich.
As a result of this and the inlet manifold restrictions mentioned above, the front cylinders can run lean and the rear cylinders rich. It’s common knowledge that over fuelling a diesel or running it rich will develop excessive heat.

Along with this, MAF sensors are known to give faulty input voltages to the ECU if they become contaminated or insulated against the cool induction air passing through them. Shutting down a hot engine will cause oil fumes to be forced up to the MAF sensor and contaminate it with oil against the normal direction of air flow. A contaminated MAF sending lower voltage signals to the ECU will usually create a lean condition, but the power loss may increase the drivers throttle input which can increase the fuel load and increase high combustion temperatures even further.
The engine does have a boost sensor, but it plays no part in fuel mixture control. The ECU will reduce boost when it gets too high, but this system is very slow to react and boost spikes of up to 25psi are common.
One of the advantages of Variable Geometry Turbochargers, is that they can be controlled electrically using vacuum rather than pressure. The ECU controls a vacuum solenoid using pulse width modulation (PWM) and by rapidly switching it at different pulse widths, it controls how much vacuum gets to the turbocharger’s actuator and in turn how much boost the turbo produces at any given rpm and load. This is very important because it enables the ECU to reduce boost at any time, even under load or when the throttle is partly pushed open.
The ECU can reduce boost to promote maximum EGR flow by reducing intake pressure while opening the EGR valve with the throttle pushed open under light load conditions. This forces more exhaust gas into the inlet manifold and combustion chambers, which in turn reduces peak combustion temperatures and NOx emissions. When this happens, EGT’s rise because there is less cool oxygen enriched air entering the combustion chambers and more hot exhaust gas, further increasing exhaust temperatures.
Any combination of the conditions mentioned above can cause an engine failure due to excessive combustion temperatures, but there are relatively easy and cheap ways of monitoring and controlling these systems. Taking some precautionary measures should reduce the chance of an engine failure or at least prolong the engine’s life.

What can be done to reduce the chance of an engine failure?

Most importantly, fit an EGT and Boost gauge to monitor what’s happening inside the engine. They won’t stop it from melting a piston, but should warn the driver of any pending issues before they become terminal.
Anything that can be done to lower EGT’s will be beneficial.
Fit an Oil/Air Separator or Catch Can to reduce the amount of crankcase blow-by oil that enters the intake system and contaminates the MAF sensor. The Mann & Hummel Pro Vent (http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/images/AirOilSeperator.jpg) or a CKD Separator are the units of choice.
Blocking the EGR valve, although illegal in many parts of the world, does have benefits in stopping hot exhaust gasses from entering the combustion chambers and will lower EGT’s. It also reduces the chance of the inlet manifold runners becoming restricted by the thick black grease when it mixes with oil from the crankcase and helps to keep the engine oil cleaner for a longer period.







Blocking the EGR, valve will increase boost, so something has to be done to lower boost and also stop the ECU from reducing boost to promote EGR flow. The easiest and best way is to fit a Manual Boost Controller (http://www.chaz.yellowfoot.org/Manual%20Boost%20Controller.htm) and take boost control away from the ECU. Best way to do this is by a Multi Stage TDi Dawes Controller to set two maximum selectable boost levels and a needle valve to control and set the spool up rate. This mod also stops high boost spikes and the possibility of overboosting.