View Full Version : 300Tdi engine oil leaks
wally
23rd August 2010, 09:00 AM
When a 300 Tdi leaks engine oil, where does it most commonly come from? I need to clean it up to try to work it out but what's the most likely scenario given the collective experience of other 300 Tdi owners? It's done about 180000km.
Scouse
23rd August 2010, 09:07 AM
Rear mains / T seals are common but I'd be giving it a good wash down & trying to trace the exact cause of the leaks before tackling that job.
Rocker cover gaskets + brake vacuum pumps are known to leak too.
86mud
23rd August 2010, 12:09 PM
Also - sump gasket as the 300 TDI's don't have a gasket as such, just use Silicone. Can be a bit tricky to get it right.
Also look at the oil breather coming out of the tappet cover (Above the fuel pump) there is a "o" ring that can be replaced.
I have also had to replace the gasket for the bracket that holds the oil filter. Watch the oil pipes in that area as well.
Cheers
Adrew
rick130
23rd August 2010, 05:26 PM
Ditto on what the fella's above have said.
With the vacuum pump I bodgied mine by epoxying the welsch plug and just silicon sealing the joint flange.
Inlet manifold gasket splits/cracks too, leading to a massive oil stain down the side of the block under the manifold from the oil blow-by that comes through from the oil seperator.
Oil cooler lines leak at the crimp.
I've had to do the sump twice too.
wally
23rd August 2010, 05:36 PM
Rear mains / T seals are common but I'd be giving it a good wash down & trying to trace the exact cause of the leaks before tackling that job.
Rocker cover gaskets + brake vacuum pumps are known to leak too.
I did the rear main recently when I had the gearbox out. I've replaced the rocker cover gasket too. The brake vacuum pump is definitely a candidate.
wally
23rd August 2010, 05:41 PM
Also - sump gasket as the 300 TDI's don't have a gasket as such, just use Silicone. Can be a bit tricky to get it right.
Also look at the oil breather coming out of the tappet cover (Above the fuel pump) there is a "o" ring that can be replaced.
I have also had to replace the gasket for the bracket that holds the oil filter. Watch the oil pipes in that area as well.
Cheers
Adrew
The sump doesn't leak. The previous owner took care of that. I've replaced the O ring in the oil breather fairly recently and it doesn't seem to be leaking, and the oil filter gasket looks alright too. The oil's mainly towards the rear of the engine.
wally
23rd August 2010, 05:57 PM
Ditto on what the fella's above have said.
With the vacuum pump I bodgied mine by epoxying the welsch plug and just silicon sealing the joint flange.
Inlet manifold gasket splits/cracks too, leading to a massive oil stain down the side of the block under the manifold from the oil blow-by that comes through from the oil seperator.
Oil cooler lines leak at the crimp.
I've had to do the sump twice too.
Thanks Rick. I'm thinking the vacuum pump is my main culprit but the inlet manifold gasket might be laking a bit too. I'll clean it all up tomorrow and go from there.
woko
23rd August 2010, 05:58 PM
Have a good look at brake vacuum pump and oil cooler lines
Taz
23rd August 2010, 07:08 PM
O ring under the oil thermostate cover went in mine
Gumnut
23rd August 2010, 08:13 PM
Maybe the question could have been "is there anywhere on a landy engine that does not leak oil?"
However, if it is messy at the rear of the 300tdi engine, drivers side, it's very possibly the vacuum pump. If it's the front passenger side, very possibly manifold gasket. Other messy options are hose on power steering pump, any slightly loose clamps on the air hoses, the gasket under the oil cap etc.
If it is the oil thermostat o-ring, do not muck about, only use the correct o-ring as suplied by a reputable landy parts supplier. If you use a "kit" one, very real risk you will be calling your parts supplier looking for an o-ring and a housing to replace the broken one.
Best bet is a real good dose of degreaser, then pressure wash, and a good look around with a bright torch. Then fix the leak, or leks as you find them.
It's a game you can play for months!
Andy
wally
23rd August 2010, 08:24 PM
O ring under the oil thermostate cover went in mine
Where's the oil thermostat cover?
Scouse
24th August 2010, 09:10 AM
I did the rear main recently when I had the gearbox out. Did you replace the rear main bearing cap T seals at the same time?
wally
24th August 2010, 10:18 AM
Did you replace the rear main bearing cap T seals at the same time?
Probably not. You've lost me a bit there. I don't think that's the source of any of the oil though.
87County
24th August 2010, 10:34 AM
FWIW to fix mine I had to replace oil cooler lines (abt $70 ea) and seal the vacuum pump gasket area
A 22mm/24mm flare nut spanner is handy for the cooler lines but you can get away with open enders & shifter.
Oil cooler lines can be repaired by different methods - probably the easiest is brazing barbs on to take a hose with clamps - I just replaced the 12yo orig lines for convenience - if they last another 12 years I'll be happy with that
rick130
24th August 2010, 05:53 PM
Where's the oil thermostat cover?
It's directly behind the oil cooler line that connects onto the filter head at 90* to the block.
Or the easiest one to get to for a change :D
Undo the hose connector, then undo the two bolts holding the t/stat in.
Be careful, the thing is under pressure (spring) and bit swill fly everywhere if you aren't careful.
I agree with Gumnut, it's easiest to just use genuine O rings for the cooler line fitting and t/stat, they cost bugger all.
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