View Full Version : D2 TD5 Fuel Cooler Leak?
Hamish71
25th August 2010, 02:34 PM
When does it stop!?
Ive had the disco in on my shop floor whilst I get the interior to do the hood lining, build a custom battery box/subwoofer box, install a compressor. The clean floor brought to my attention a coolant leak.
It appears to be coming from the rear of the fuel cooler. I would take a picture, but I needed a small mirror to see it so a picture is difficult.
The fuel cooler jacket is plugged at both ends with round back (plastic?) caps which have coolant in and out. I have coolant collecting on the bottom rear lip. It doesnt appear to be the hose. The caps look like they are held in by some kind of strap. I assume there is an o-ring or similar there, and that this is what has failed? Or is the fuel cooler a sealed unit that I have to replace?...and if I take it off, I assume the smart thing to do is replace the o-rings and gasket on the regulator whilst I am there.....
Any advice appreciated, before I pull it off (and spend ANOTHER $75 on ****ing coolant)
Hamish71
25th August 2010, 02:58 PM
www.discovery2.co.uk - Leaking Fuel Cooler Fix (http://www.discovery2.co.uk/fuelcooler.html) and apparently not much coolant leaks out....
DougLD
25th August 2010, 05:02 PM
Hi All
I have just replaced the orings in the disco and you can get a kit from All4x4 in Newcastle it comes with a pair of o rings and 2 stainless adjustable worm drive clips.
Regards
Doug
LandyAndy
25th August 2010, 09:26 PM
Hamish
There is a current thread on this(in the D2 area).
BIG $$$ to replace,easy DIY job to replace the O Rings.
GOODLUCK
Andrew
Phil633
25th August 2010, 10:53 PM
There is a thread on here that quotes the part number of the o'Rings you need. I fixed mine by just buying the o'rings. It is an eay fix.
I cannot remember who the thread starter was but I am pretty sure it was Big Jon who provided the part numbers.
RR P38
26th August 2010, 09:07 AM
I used the link myself last Friday and changed the O rings.
The part numbers would appear to be correct, i do not have any leaks after the repair.
Apart from my now dripping water pump, Grrrr.
It is about a 2 hour job, max.
Those clips can be a paint though, file a 45 degree chamfer on a 1/4" sqaure nut and use long nose plyers and you will get them back on.
I also unbolted the cooler(4 bolts) but i left the fuel lines on.
It is fiddly but achievable.
Now im onto the damn water pump.
By the way all these leaks started after a coolant change???
discoii99
6th April 2014, 02:20 PM
Today I found my diesel cooler was leaking at the front o-ring in the normal place. As this has happened before, I decided to remove the cooler completely which proved to be quite a simple task.
Upon removing the front cap, I found sludges in the lower portion of the cooler and when I tried to flush it water would not flow from the other end through the cooler. When the other end of the cooler was removed I found what looked like a thermostat in it with a temperature mark of "82" on it (see photo).
After cleaning and inspection I tried testing the thermostat by placing it in boiling water. The thermostat does not move and therefore unserviceable.
There is no mention of this part any where. So will look for a replacement and update this thread.
northiam
6th April 2014, 03:52 PM
I found the same thing with mine.
Removed the thermostat 3 months ago with no bad effects.
Diesel fuel temperature slightly lower when driving on a 30+c day
Diesel fuel heats up quicker.
Regards
discoii99
6th April 2014, 04:28 PM
Update:
Went to the local parts store and dug through the thermostats in stock till I found an eighty two degree standard dayco DT27A-BP. The element was the same size and shape.
On return the body of the thermostat I purchased was cut to remove the element. This was placed into the Diesel cooler end and the original land rover spring wound back in to retain it.
Now for the test!
1 does it seal? Yes!
2 does it open?
Boiled kettle and gently poured water into the cap (front end)
Yes, it works, the thermostat opens.
Total cost including o-rings $25.00 AU thank you Andy - Autowest is best.
Hope this help
laney
6th April 2014, 06:53 PM
This is not a hard job just a bit fiddly I both o rings get some rubber graese and give the new o rings a good coat I removed the thermostat and used hose clanps on each end car seems to run better. Irang LR about thermostat they said it was there mainly for colder Euroupen winters not realy needed in Australia a LR dealer in Melbourne should have all the parts.
d2dave
7th April 2014, 08:57 AM
Is there any thing special about these O rings. People are quoting part numbers for them. Could these not be sourced from a bearing shop?
Disco Muppet
7th April 2014, 10:39 AM
Dave, the only thing special about them is that they're Viton rubber, as it's pretty much the only thing that will stand up, so unless you're interested in repeating the process every 3 months or so go for Viton.
BS225 is the size IIRC.
RRP38, changed from green to red?
Or just flushed the system? Both have a tendency to expose leaks in the system.
discoii99
10th April 2014, 08:38 PM
The local auto store had boxes of o-rings of all types, so was able to get the right rubber type and size in stock on Sunday. Might pay to ask your local.
def9087
15th April 2014, 05:00 PM
I've just had the same problem and replacing the o'rings. The fuel line clip at the rear is near impossible to remove , so I working on it with that line attached still.
but not sure which groove the o ring goes into? Remove original seal or out in the second groove down?
Some help please
H
Thanks
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