Prospective Series 111 purchase

[Epsom]

Hi guys, I'm considering buying a SWB 2.25 petrol which:

1) is said to have rust "in the top of the doors". Haven't seen it yet, but does that sound like it would be a big problem to fix?

2) doesn't have the Fairey overdrive but I would like to add that if possible. Are they around and approx. what do you think I might have to pay to get one professionally installed?

3) hasn't had anything done to the engine to adapt it to modern fuels. With the demise of unleaded, what will I be able to run it on and any mods necessary?

Would greatly appreciate any advice on these matters. Cheers, Epsom.

[FenianEel]

Hi guys, I'm considering buying a SWB 2.25 petrol which:

1) is said to have rust "in the top of the doors". Haven't seen it yet, but does that sound like it would be a big problem to fix?
Easily and cheaply replaced

2) doesn't have the Fairey overdrive but I would like to add that if possible. Are they around and approx. what do you think I might have to pay to get one professionally installed?
Yes, they are around.
Anything from free in bits to $500 +.
A lot of people will tell you not to bother, saying they are noisy and don't add much. I'd put one in.
3) hasn't had anything done to the engine to adapt it to modern fuels. With the demise of unleaded, what will I be able to run it on and any mods necessary? It'll be fine

Would greatly appreciate any advice on these matters. Cheers, Epsom.

On second thoughts, sounds like heaps of trouble and a pile of crap.
Better give me the number, and I'll go get it :p

[The ho har's]

Hi guys, I'm considering buying a SWB 2.25 petrol which:

1) is said to have rust "in the top of the doors". Haven't seen it yet, but does that sound like it would be a big problem to fix?

I got my doortops for GBP19.00 each from England

2) doesn't have the Fairey overdrive but I would like to add that if possible. Are they around and approx. what do you think I might have to pay to get one professionally installed?

I know where ther is one on the southside of Bris that I didn't put in mine...

3) hasn't had anything done to the engine to adapt it to modern fuels. With the demise of unleaded, what will I be able to run it on and any mods necessary?

additive in the fuel

Would greatly appreciate any advice on these matters. Cheers, Epsom.

Oh and ignore what FenianEel said:p:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[scrambler]

Nothing beats becoming fully familiar with the Series vehicles if you want to buy one. From your questions I'm guessing this is your first but you've been lurking? If you know heaps, skip what I'm about to write as I think the questions have been adequately answered already.

But here goes...

The upper door half (glass and frame) are removable, replaceable and interchangeable. For 19 pound you'll get the frame and need to swap the glass yourself. You may be able to find low-rust or rust-free second hand examples, but its unlikely - it's a common problem.

The overdrives are a better idea on paper than in reality. A 5 speed box sounds attractive but the 2.25 is designed with a power peak matched to the maximum road speed (which was designed at 100km/hr) using the 1:1 ratio of 4th gear. Comfortable cruising is 80-100km/hr whatever you do to the gearbox. The motor just doesn't have the power needed to push the brick any faster. Performance engine mods are probably a better direction to go if you want modern highway speeds. Overdrives and free-wheeling hubs are in the same class IMHO - minimal gain in the real world and added maintenance problems. Do a quick search of the forum for the key words. Professional installation - you wouldn't recover the cost in fuel savings.

The engines were designed to run on standard leaded - low octane fuel. Octane indicates the resistance to detonation, not power. Standard unleaded is fine, you won't see any performance increase with more expensive fuels. An upper cylinder lubricant is cheap insurance but the valve seats seem to hold up well regardless.

Looking at your previous posts I see you seriously considered a Classic Range Rover and some lower-priced Defenders. I would suggest that if you want a cost effective off-road but also highway-capable vehicle, which has a classic appeal, that either the Classic RR, a Stage 1 (V8 Series III) or County would be your best options. Expect $4000 - $8000 for any of these in nothing-to-fix condition. The v8's are common, cheap to fix and adequately powerful in these vehicles. Get some sort of exemption if hoon laws apply to you - the power output of even the RR V8 is exceeded by most family 4 cylinders today. By modern standards the 2.25 couldn't pull the skin off a custard. It's the low gears (and consequent low speed) that give the Series LR its capabilities.

[Epsom]

Thanks to al respondants, some really helpful info there!
There are a handful of LR models that really appeal to me and I am following a few of those up.
I have a 08 Honda Jazz for most day to day running, so this is for recreational use maybe, but as that entails a few klm's, consumption is on my mind.
They always uesd to say petrol was the cheapest thing you put in a car, but these days...
Cheers, Epsom.

[The ho har's]

Hey just realized you are on the Gold Coast..well nearly;)...

go here

Gold Coast Land Rover Owners Club - Australian Land Rover Owners (http://www.aulro.com/afvb/gold-coast-land-rover-owners-club/)

there is a stack of us that have series vehicles that we take on runs regularly...look through the info and reports..

Mrs hh:angel:

[Sideroad]

I know of a couple of door tops in reasonable condition, needing a paint. PM me or call me on 0412055388.
I also have an O/D in my 2A 109(with a 186), but I don't seem to use it much. Having had one for a few years now, I would not go to the effort in buying and installing one. Too little gain for the $ and effort.(oh and noise)

[JDNSW]

Hi guys, I'm considering buying a SWB 2.25 petrol which:

1) is said to have rust "in the top of the doors". Haven't seen it yet, but does that sound like it would be a big problem to fix?

2) doesn't have the Fairey overdrive but I would like to add that if possible. Are they around and approx. what do you think I might have to pay to get one professionally installed?

3) hasn't had anything done to the engine to adapt it to modern fuels. With the demise of unleaded, what will I be able to run it on and any mods necessary?

Would greatly appreciate any advice on these matters. Cheers, Epsom.

Just to add to what has been said.

1. New door tops likely to be required. Simple, but not particularly cheap.

2. A Fairey overdrive might be marginally useful in a swb with the 2.25, but I would not bother. The engine is quite happy at the rpm it will be doing on the highway, and if you are doing this speed you will use much the same amount of fuel whether it is doing 2,000 or 3,000rpm! While you should be able to find one for $500, at that priice you will probably need to spend $1000 on it. Parts are readily available but not cheap, and they are almost always noisy. (I do have one fitted, so I know what I am talking about!). Professional fitting would be an expensive luxury - they are easy to fit, but would involve enough hours by a professional (fiddly things like making a hole for the lever in exactly thee right place), that I expect you would be looking at somewhere around $500 in addition to the cost of the unit.

3. I have been running mine on unleaded since the demise of leaded fuel, without any signs of valve seat recession, and I have had the head off for a good look. They were sold new in Canada in a period when unleaded was all that was available with no problems and no manufacturer's qualms.

John

[peterg1001]

I have been running mine on unleaded since the demise of leaded fuel, without any signs of valve seat recession, and I have had the head off for a good look. They were sold new in Canada in a period when unleaded was all that was available with no problems and no manufacturer's qualms.

Hi John, how have you gone with E10 fuel? Has it made any noticeable difference to performance or engine wear?

Peter

[JDNSW]

Hi John, how have you gone with E10 fuel? Has it made any noticeable difference to performance or engine wear?

Peter

Can't help - the local bloke does not sell E10 (yet) so I have probably only had one or two tanks of it in total. The only problems I would look out for is the possibility of a bad reaction in components such as the fuel pump diaphragm and to be aware that if not used regularly in a damp climate, the ethanol may absorb water leading to corrosion in fuel pump and carburetter.

John

[Ben SIII]

In regards to using unleaded, the kiwi's sell an inline zinc filter which you can place on the fuel line which is supposed to help engines based on leaded fuel run on unleaded. Don't know if it is a gimmick or if it works, though one came with my 109 and i have had no issues, its also supposed to help with poor quality fuels.