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Rockylizard
30th August 2010, 01:43 PM
Gday...
Been reading the FAQs and was wondering where to connect jumper cables on the D3 TDV6 should I have the need?

+ve to battery +ve/-ve to ??? on D3.

I'm assuming connecting the -ve of the jumper lead to battery -ve is not wise?
I read the Thread about how to make/obtain 400amp cables etc. Just interested in where to connect should I need to.
Cheers

John

BigJon
30th August 2010, 01:47 PM
Does a D3 have a dedicated +ve jump start post on the firewall? I seem to recall they do, but it is quite some time since I looked under the bonnet on one.

sniegy
30th August 2010, 06:55 PM
Jon, You are thinking of the RR Vogue (LM).;)

John, For safety sake i would do the same as the FAQ's & connect the +ve side to the battery terminal.
The -ve side, i again would go to the cam bolt under the vehicle as described in the FAQ. If u look under the passenger side of the vehicle you will see a large threaded bolt coming towards you, connect to this.

This is if YOUR vehicle has the FLAT battery.

Cheers.

Graeme
30th August 2010, 09:15 PM
Hi Sniegy,
As that cam bolt is mounted on the chassis, is the D3/D4/RRS chassis earthed via a cable? I ask as the D2 chassis is not earthed directly, only via drive-train bearings and steering ball joints and bearings particularly don't appreciate high electric current.

DiscoSaffa
31st August 2010, 06:54 AM
This is if YOUR vehicle has the FLAT battery.

A question..... what if we are being typical helpful Land Rover drivers :angel: and we are using the D3 to jump start someone else....... how do we connect the jump leads? :confused:

sniegy
31st August 2010, 06:54 PM
A question..... what if we are being typical helpful Land Rover drivers :angel: and we are using the D3 to jump start someone else....... how do we connect the jump leads? :confused:

On the "D3" only it would be safe to place the jumper cables on the +ve & -ve terminals of your own vehicle & then fit the +ve side to the other cars +ve terminal & the -ve terminal to an Earth bolt somewhere in the engine bay or where ever one can accessed.

HTH

Cheers

Blknight.aus
31st August 2010, 07:22 PM
regardless of the type of vehicle I always use the following procedure. (assuming they are of the same voltage of course)

check how much power the receiving vehicle has (usually I just turn on the ignition and turn on the headlights to see what lights up and how well)

hook up the positive cable directly to the battery positive terminals (or the dedicated jump starting point) either first it doesn't matter.

hook up the negative cable to the good batteries negative terminal and keep the other end in my or my assistants hand.

connect the other end to a solid earthing point on the engine preferably to the same chunk of metal that the startermotor is bolted to

start the good engine and run it for at least a couple of minutes at high idle while I check that the receiving vehicle is receiving power (turn the ignition on and the headlights again to check brightness) then start it up.

disconnection is the reverse of hookup.

sniegy
31st August 2010, 07:37 PM
Good point Blknight.
A bit more detail is always a good thing.;)

Forest
31st August 2010, 07:40 PM
To be honest, I am not sure I would do it with a D3. I definately have no knowledge relating to jumpstarting with a D3.

So why am I sticking my oar in?? In all previous vehicles that have had a computer of any nature under the bonnet, I have always jump started with the rear demister on, and headlights on. Theory is that this would remove any spike that might cause nasties to anything electrical under the bonnet.

I can only say, I had no malfunctions using this method. Whether it was due to this strategy or not I cannot say. Of course now all the jumper leads have anti spike protection, so this may no longer be relevant.

sniegy
31st August 2010, 07:44 PM
Hi Sniegy,
As that cam bolt is mounted on the chassis, is the D3/D4/RRS chassis earthed via a cable? I ask as the D2 chassis is not earthed directly, only via drive-train bearings and steering ball joints and bearings particularly don't appreciate high electric current.

Hi Graeme,

I am pretty sure it is, just cant remember where i saw the cable go to/from!:eek:

I am also sure the D2 was earthed, there was an earth cable from the engine to the firewall behind the block. I know the D1 had a cable behind a body mount.

You got me thinking now....:angel:

kingo
31st August 2010, 08:39 PM
My 2 cents worth, if I was using my D3, I'd first try to jump start another vehicle from mine, firstly without my car turned on. If your battery is in good condition and you have a decent set of jumper leads, you should be able to kick start another car no worries. If you are trying to do the reverse, let the other vehicle run, connected to yours for a while, this will bring the charge up in your battery, assuming your battery is flat from over use, not old age. Then turn off the other car and start yours, again this should help prevent any voltage spiking. Have done this many times on my D2, thankfully my D3 hasn't needed that help yet. Have jump started many vehicles with flat batteries, due to fridges, etc, with no worries. Good jumper leads and clamps is the key to easy jump starting.

Good luck

Andrew

Graeme
31st August 2010, 09:46 PM
Hi Graeme,

I am pretty sure it is, just cant remember where i saw the cable go to/from!:eek:

I am also sure the D2 was earthed, there was an earth cable from the engine to the firewall behind the block. I know the D1 had a cable behind a body mount.

You got me thinking now....:angel:
The negative lead from the battery in each of my D2s went to the inner guard then to the engine, but no cable to the chassis anywhere. A D2 fitted with a winch and an earth cable going directly to the winch motor will earth the chassis due to the winch cradle being mounted to the chassis though.
My 84 RRC has one to the chassis, as did my 82 RRC.

I will look at the D4 when I get a chance but as nothing requires an earth from the chassis, I suspect it will be the same as the D2.

Tinman
1st September 2010, 09:15 AM
Hi guys if you open up your D3 owners manual and go to page 298 & 299 the procedure is explained here.
Cheers Tinman

DiscoSaffa
1st September 2010, 12:46 PM
Hi guys if you open up your D3 owners manual and go to page 298 & 299 the procedure is explained here.
Cheers Tinman

I was wondering how long it would be until someone told us to go and read the instructions...... ;)

Tinman
1st September 2010, 01:45 PM
I supposed I just spoiled the thread by offering an answer ha ha :p

d3viate
1st September 2010, 02:10 PM
Maybe slightly off track (deviation!) but if your jump-starting and it wasn't just leaving the lights on sort of thing, it is good practice (IMHO), to pull the battery post leads off, give the clamps a cleanup with a round file lightly or grit/sand paper, and the battery posts a light scratch-up/clean up, replace everything nice and tight,check the alternator,starter,earth wires are tight, and just have a look following the wires if you can to make sure all is ok .
Keep your battery clean and clamped tight.
Remember that good point made to connect the leads on the "jumper" first to keep the sparks down and you shouldn't have a fag in your mouth or hand hanging over the battery. It's a mini bomb there if it's lead acid type.
I like to put my sunnies or clear safety glasses on if working on lead-acid batterys because they can go off and you only have one set of eyeballs.
It only takes a few minutes to get a good connection and its one thing most people forget to maintain and is the most common problem when called out for a jump-start.
There are products to cover your posts after the clean up help prevent the substance that builds up between the posts and clamps that you have now cleaned. Some put vaseline on them but this melts and with dirt build-up can cause "tracking".
All helps getting the starter spinning to the max, your alternator pumping and lengthens your battery life.
Sux breakin down .

Graeme
1st September 2010, 02:56 PM
Hi Graeme,

I am pretty sure it is, just cant remember where i saw the cable go to/from!:eek:
Yep, on my D4 at least. There's a strap from the body below the air-box to the chassis on the strut tower.

RANDLOVER
23rd August 2018, 12:13 AM
I just used the leads direct from my D3 +ve & -ve to jump start a Mercedes delivery van. What a weird car that is, couldn't even see the battery in the engine bay, just a +ve lug to the fuse box and just a stud on the van body for the -ve!

loanrangie
23rd August 2018, 06:42 AM
I just used the leads direct from my D3 +ve & -ve to jump start a Mercedes delivery van. What a weird car that is, couldn't even see the battery in the engine bay, just a +ve lug to the fuse box and just a stud on the van body for the -ve!Most mercs have the battery in the boot.

IndusD4
23rd August 2018, 07:57 AM
So does the D5, with + and - terminals under the bonnet only.

Ron

Bohica
23rd August 2018, 11:08 AM
Most mercs have the battery in the boot.


If it was a Vito, the battery is under the passenger seat.

NavyDiver
24th August 2018, 03:33 PM
I was wondering how long it would be until someone told us to go and read the instructions...... ;)

Instructions- [bigrolf]

Jumped started my former D3 just once with main battery dead and dual battery shot in NSW on small drive to QLD and back to Melbourne- the landcrusier (yep smiling) could not provide enough power with out revving the engine. Given a jump to several cars and 4Wds from my D3 and have always had my engine running before attempting to start the other car.

Must concede never reading those pages. [bigrolf]

Celtoid
25th August 2018, 10:00 AM
Most mercs have the battery in the boot.

Merc C Series have the battery under the bonnet, well both the ones I've had have had that set up and the recent one is only a couple of years old. Hard to see in the newer model as there are so many covers. They also have a small battery in the boot to run accessories as part of their stop/start function (not that it actually looks like a battery). Maybe you're getting mixed up with that?

Can't talk about other models but the C-series also has an awesome dedicated jumper point under the bonnet. You slide a cover open and there is a positive terminal designed specifically for giving/receiving a jump. It's a great idea.

loanrangie
25th August 2018, 10:49 AM
We have a c200,slk360 and clk320 and all have battery in the boot, also have an sl280 but its battery is up front.

Celtoid
25th August 2018, 11:56 AM
2011 C250 Main battery LHS engine bay (right up near windscreen) under some covers (if memory serves me). Stop/Start in boot … bulletin came out on that as the terminals were getting shorted or something. They put a cover on it.

2016 C200 (newest shape) Main battery LHS under windscreen under a shed load of covers. Not that it's even visible from the top. Had to consult You-tube to figure out how to get to it as the handbook has no images and states "only to be accessed by a qualified battery technician' or some such words. Turned out to be quite obvious on how to remove the covers but didn't want to do it if the battery wasn't there. Stop/Start in boot, under a shed load of covers too. RHS of the... ahem …. spare wheel well (for the spare we don't have as it came with run-flats … LOL). I thoroughly checked to see if I was confused by memories of the old Merc but there is no main battery in the boot of my C200.

Bizarre ….

bee utey
25th August 2018, 12:24 PM
I thoroughly checked to see if I was confused by memories of the old Merc but there is no main battery in the boot of my C200.

Bizarre ….

1990's C series (W202) have the battery in the boot.

Celtoid
25th August 2018, 12:37 PM
143604143605

Under a cover, under what looks like a pollen filter. Apologies about the rotation …. but my lunch was getting cold … LOL!!!

loanrangie
25th August 2018, 04:00 PM
The slk has one up front and the larger in the rear.