WHEEL STUD OVERTREADED

[Declan]

I went to change my back wheel today and one of the studs was way over tight and when i got it to move it , It looked like it was put on the wrong tread and know is just turning and not coming off the stud.
is there any way i can get it off the stud without grinding the stud off ?
any feedback would be appreciated:angrylock::angrylock::angrylock:

Thanks Declan

[Blknight.aus]

you can try levering the wheel off while turning the nut. you might get enough purchase on whats left of the threads to enable them to start and unwind.

make sure the vehicle is well chocked and supported and you have all the other wheel nuts removed prior to starting.

Odds are both the stud and nut are fubar and will need replacing.

IF its a steel rim you can very carefully drill the nut at the apexes and then fracture it off. If its an ally rim or you cant get into the nut you are going to be better off drilling out the stud then snapping it off.

[Bearman]

What sort of vehicle, Declan. Front or rear diff.? It helps if you tell us these details. Maybe the wheel stud is turning in the hub. If this is the case,You will have to take the wheel and hub off the vehicle in one piece and spot weld the stud into the hub. You will have to remove the brake caliper first. Then you can deal with the stud. If it's a stripped thread it's probably a similar procedure to sort it out depending on whether the stud is turning in the hub or not. If not oxy or drill the stud is probably the easiest way.

[Declan]

Its alloy wheels so i will give it a try when get it off it will be anti-seize on all studs to stop this happening again.

Thanks for your advice.

[Declan]

Defender 110 2006 rear left wheel is the problem

[Blknight.aus]

your going to have to drill it or sacrafice the ally.

I Strongly recommend that you drill the stud then snap it off. you will need some very good drill bits and a very good drill.

from memory you cant dismantle the hub through the ally rims to remove it from the stub axle.

[Xtreme]

your going to have to drill it or sacrafice the ally.

I Strongly recommend that you drill the stud then snap it off. you will need some very good drill bits and a very good drill.

from memory you cant dismantle the hub through the ally rims to remove it from the stub axle.

Another good reason (not previously thought of) for not using the allys when travelling in remote areas - thanks.

[Declan]

If i drill the stud will i be able to use the tread again or do i need to get a new tread and where would i get one .

[Blknight.aus]

no, drilling out the stud is going to destroy it. truth be told if its cross threaded or turning in the hub its stuffed anyway.

you will need to replace both the stud and the nut as you have allys dont expect much change from $30 for the stud and nut alone.

once you have the wheel off you will have to

remove the drive flange
remove the brake caliper
remove the hub
dismount the rotor
knock out whats left of the old stud
replace the stud
reassemble.

in doing this you will also need some other parts (some you might be able to re-use but I dont advice it) and consumables

hub seal
flange seal
stake nut
grease
brake clean
brake fluid
loctite 243 + 262

In a decent workshop I wouldnt expect the total repair time to be more than 3 hours.

Parts can be had from a few places, I reccomend M R Automotive (that'll be a mail delivery to you expect 2 days) four wheel drives over in melbourne (same deal) but I think there is a roverspares in Adelaide that would be your fastest bet, hopefully a local will be able to chime in with details.

[Declan]

Well i finaly got my rear wheel stud off ,i had to grind and drill it but i saved the alloy wheel all i need know is a new stud. I took all the wheels off to check them and all them were very hard to get off so know i have decided to take the studs of at least once every two months to make sure they do not bond to the alloy again.
Thanks for all your replies they were very helpful.

Declan:twisted::twisted::twisted:

[LowRanger]

Declan

Unless you have been playing in salt water,I doubt that the nut seized on the stud.I would think that more than likely the wheel nuts have been done up with a pneumatic rattle gun,and have been done up too tight and pulled the pitch on the thread slightly,causing it to grab.This is why I won't let tyre places tighten my wheel nuts.A very small amount of anti seize on the threads won't hurt though in future.

Wayne

[Declan]

I agree with you that they probly have been done up by a rattle gun but its no comfort when you go to take them off and they will not move no matter what you do.

Declan

[eckwalsh]

I watched the guy at the tyre place do the wheel nuts up with the rattle gun all the way. When he had finished i gave him the standard wheel brace(not my good one) and told him to now undo the nuts with it.When he couldnt i not so politely advised him of the error in his ways and how was i supposed to get them off if i was in the middle of no-where ( or words to that effect). The boss eventually came out and he even less politely advised him of his error as he had done it many times before it would appear.The boss didnt charge me for the puncture repair and i notice the guy didnt work there much after that.

[Blknight.aus]

I agree with you that they probly have been done up by a rattle gun but its no comfort when you go to take them off and they will not move no matter what you do.

Declan

if you dont use some kind of antisiezing agent on them the nuts that hold the ally on will over time bind onto the wheel and the stud, I usually use a slick of axle grease but then Im rotating my tyres every 10K Km. Im also a firm believer that the wheel nut tension (100nm for allys 100ftLb for steelies) should be set with lubricated threads and faces.