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PaulP38a
5th September 2010, 12:06 AM
Here are a few pics from a work-in-progress.

http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/4413-1/IMG00094-20100905-0030.jpg
The Day Running Lights (DRL) should be relatively straightforward... either find a switched power line after ignition is on, or wire up to park lights, or just a switch on the dash.

Playing around with the FaultMate I found in the BeCM module the option to enable DRL :cool:, so wiring up to the parkers and enabling the option would be closest thing to stock. The extra load of 5 LEDs per side might enable me to replace the old 21W incandescent parkers with an LED equivalent and not throw a warning message?

The HIDs are a different story... easy enough to install the 35W H4 globes on 50W ballast... but errors being thrown on main and dipped beam.
Scouse suggested diodes inline to prevent backfeed so might try that out.

I do like the clean light though.

DRL only
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/4416-1/IMG00095-20100905-0031.jpg

DRL and HID
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/4418-1/IMG00096-20100905-0031.jpg

If I get this going reliably, I'll do a write-up to the Project section.

It might even become a a product kit at Hard Range for "competition and show use only" ;)

Cheers, Paul.

ytt105
5th September 2010, 11:05 AM
Hi Paul

Give Peter a call.

He's been running HID's for some time and I keep kicking him to sort out the error message problem.

Regards
Trevor

DT-P38
5th September 2010, 09:07 PM
keep up the good work Paul!

wayneg
5th September 2010, 10:33 PM
What is the error message, Bulb failure? if so these might cure the problem

LED Light Bulbs Load Resistors 25w/25ohm Xenon hid : eBay Motors (item 110573997303 end time Sep-14-10 11:38:41 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/LED-Light-Bulbs-Load-Resistors-25w-25ohm-Xenon-hid-/110573997303?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19beb94cf7)

PaulP38a
5th September 2010, 11:50 PM
Yep... LH Dip Beam Bulb Failure, RH Dip Beam Bulb Failure, LH Main Beam Bulb Failure, and RH Main Beam Bulb Failure.

According to Ohm's Law (V=IR) these 25 Ohm resistors should pull an extra 0.5A.

Dunno where they get 25W from...
Ohm's mate Joule's says Power = I x I x R (or VI) = 0.5 x 0.5 x 25 = 6.25W

Do you guys reckon this will be enough to trick the BECM?

cheers, Paul.

p38arover
6th September 2010, 06:56 AM
Dunno where they get 25W from...

That's the power rating of the resistor, not what they will be dissipating. Note that they are in heat sinks so their power rating will be higher than conventional power resistors.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1688.jpg

Junosi
6th September 2010, 09:04 AM
Do you guys reckon this will be enough to trick the BECM?

I use them on my motorbike, as I've replaced all the standard bulbs with LEDs. They convince my motorbike computer that all is well with the bulbs (no bulb failure message). Your application is a little different to LED so it might be a bit more interesting getting it to work correctly with these resistors, still a chance though I reckon

Scouse
6th September 2010, 09:16 AM
If you're getting all 4 bulb failures, then it'll be because the ballasts aren't drawing enough current with the 35w globes (as I suggested in a PM).
I run a full 50/55w kit & only fitted the diodes to avoid 2 bulb fail messages. I didn't need to fit any load resistors to 'trick' the system.

PaulP38a
7th September 2010, 12:34 AM
We have a development of sorts.

The lights are great to drive with... range and visibility is very good. So far, no flashes from other drivers... even asked a pretty young thing that I followed in to the servo tonight if my lights bothered her, she said not at all... I think she meant it and wasn't just being polite or afraid of the lecherous old man in the big ugly 4WD.

Then I went to the LRC ACT meeting and was informed by RRturboD that my LH light wasn't working :mad:

Fiddled around in the car park at Eastlakes FC to see if I had a loose connection... all good as far as I could tell without removing the light and checking the earth. Drove home, still impressed by one HID light and the DRL's... no signs of irritating other drivers.

At home in the relative comfort of my garage, checked the lights again and noticed that the LH light flickered for a few seconds before going out. Changed the bulb for new one and it did the same thing.

An observation and question: when operating, the ballast for the RH light emits a dull whining sound. There is no sound from the LH ballast at all. Is the sound normal, and due to the load on the ballast... and is the absence of sound on the LH ballast a cause for concern, and/or due to the lack of load?

I'll change the ballast tomorrow and see if this makes a difference.

I'll also order some 55W bulbs to see if this makes the warning messages go away.

Will also get some resistors, but I can get the same eBay ones for much cheaper through my wholesaler.

Stay tuned... we'll get these puppies working. Your advice always appreciated... and a nice gift for the person that comes up with the solution ;)

Cheers, Paul.

Junosi
7th September 2010, 08:46 AM
Is the sound normal, and due to the load on the ballast... and is the absence of sound on the LH ballast a cause for concern, and/or due to the lack of load?

HID ballasts I've used in the past have all whined/hummed when in use, some louder than others. I think the LH one would be silent if your light isn't going with no load on the ballast - so not necessarily a dead ballast

wayneg
7th September 2010, 03:20 PM
This looks like it could be a tailor made fix?

HID H4 Bi-xenon Kits Leakage Module Warning Canceller: eBay Motors (item 260652929836 end time Sep-18-10 01:05:33 PDT) (http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-H4-Bi-xenon-Kits-Leakage-Module-Warning-Canceller-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem3cb020132cQQitemZ26065 2929836QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries)

bluedisco2
7th September 2010, 10:42 PM
I've been reading this thread with interest as i have recently fitted 35watt HID conversion to our D2 without fault so far at all!!
I'm about to convert our newly aquired P38 town car so this thread has been of interest.
The D2 is a 1999 model and the p38 is a 2000 model.
I think the link below shows a solution for your problem. If i'm correct i think the control system in the 2000 p38 differs from the pre 99 ones and maybe i wont have this issue?
I'll let you know after i've done it next week sometime,
cheers,
Deano

PaulP38a
8th September 2010, 12:54 AM
Seems that it was a dodgy ballast unit. Replaced it tonight and all is good again.

Still get the 4 warning messages of course. Have ordered a couple of those warning cancellers off eBay to see if they make a difference.

Cheers, Paul.

PaulieJ
10th September 2010, 10:24 AM
I've been reading this thread with interest as i have recently fitted 35watt HID conversion to our D2 without fault so far at all!!
I'm about to convert our newly aquired P38 town car so this thread has been of interest.
The D2 is a 1999 model and the p38 is a 2000 model.
I think the link below shows a solution for your problem. If i'm correct i think the control system in the 2000 p38 differs from the pre 99 ones and maybe i wont have this issue?
I'll let you know after i've done it next week sometime,
cheers,
Deano

I have a 2000 P38 which I just fitted HID lights to. I get all the light failure warnings still... I have also noticed that when I first turn the lights on the BeCM seems to "reboot" - the instrument cluster beeps, gives the globe failure warnings, runs through a self test and the radio turns off and on.
Has anyone else experienced this? To be honest it concerns me a fair bit :( - I was thinking I should take the HID's back out - I assume its caused by a power surge from the ballast??

Scouse
10th September 2010, 10:47 AM
Has anyone else experienced this? No. What wattage kit did you fit?

PaulP38a
10th September 2010, 10:49 AM
I have a 2000 P38 which I just fitted HID lights to. I get all the light failure warnings still... I have also noticed that when I first turn the lights on the BeCM seems to "reboot" - the instrument cluster beeps, gives the globe failure warnings, runs through a self test and the radio turns off and on.
Has anyone else experienced this? To be honest it concerns me a fair bit :( - I was thinking I should take the HID's back out - I assume its caused by a power surge from the ballast??

that sounds scary. I get a small headlight flash when they come on but nothing inside seems odd. I'd be back out of the HIDs if they did that to me... wouldn't want to risk upsetting the BECM that way.

Scouse mentioned using a diode to prevent backfeed. Perhaps try that.

Do you have a HID controller unit, or are you running the ballast direct from the light power?

cheers
Paul.

Scouse
10th September 2010, 11:02 AM
Scouse mentioned using a diode to prevent backfeed. Perhaps try that.

That's only to stop the bulb failure warnings on high (or low) beam.
I used a cheapish 50/55w eBay kit with the sliding shield to switch between high & low.

I can't exactly remember which beam needs to operate the shield but I'll say 'high' as an example.
With the eBay kits, they come with a control unit which does the switching but you can't use this in a P38 if you want to avoid the bulb failure hassles.
So you cut the wires to this control unit & wire the ballasts directly to your headlight sockets.
In order to have the actual light itself stay on between low & high beams, it needs to be wired to both high & low beam circuits.
Now, the high beam also needs to activate the sliding shield as well as power up the light globe. This is where the diode is used - to prevent the power from the low beam circuit getting to the sliding shield so it only operates with 'high'.

I realise that I probably haven't explained this very well & I'm hopeless at wiring diagrams so you're welcome to have a look at my car at the Expo in a couple of weeks.

PaulieJ
10th September 2010, 11:37 AM
that sounds scary. I get a small headlight flash when they come on but nothing inside seems odd. I'd be back out of the HIDs if they did that to me... wouldn't want to risk upsetting the BECM that way.

Scouse mentioned using a diode to prevent backfeed. Perhaps try that.

Do you have a HID controller unit, or are you running the ballast direct from the light power?

cheers
Paul.

I use a HID controller that came in the kit (It's from Jaycar). The first control unit failed after the first few uses, but since it has been replaced the lights work fine. It only happens the first time you switch the lights on - if you switch them off and back on in a short period nothing 'weird' happens.
I'm definately leaning towards removing the HID's though - It's not worth risking a damaged BECM and getting stranded in the middle of the bush somewhere...

DT-P38
10th September 2010, 08:37 PM
Why not drop into your local AUTO ELEC for a check on it all before you undo/back out everything?

wayneg
10th September 2010, 10:11 PM
Any legal buffs here know if these are OK for Aussie regs ( not that I really care). My understanding is hids need to be coupled to a self levelling system, maybe the EAS has given us an edge here?. I have been using one of these H4 bi xenon kits for 3 years on another car with no issues apart from a bulb out warning light easily cured by removing said warning light bulb. Even had the car over the pits for inspection with no dramas and have been pulled over many times by unhappy patrol men looking for faults again with no issues. I was pulled up over led side lights not showing bright enough in daylight though.

Rushy
18th September 2010, 12:47 PM
Hi Paul
When/if you a kit though Hardrange I assume you will post it on this site, I am more than interested but at this stage am unsure of the problems involved so being an LR person I thought I 'd let some one else break their car first.


Cheers

Rushy

PaulP38a
21st September 2010, 12:02 AM
Not quite there yet blokes...

Two types of message cancellation kits arrived today and neither fixed the irritating beeps and messages on the dash.

I can't recommend either of these kits from FleaBay
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/4603-1/IMG_2700.JPG
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/4605-1/IMG_2702.JPG

Mind you, I am still running the 35W lights. Maybe this will work when I swap over to 55W. Stay tuned...

Scouse... definitely want to check out your setup at the LR Expo next weekend.

Cheers, Paul.

harlie
21st September 2010, 07:08 AM
Any legal buffs here know if these are OK for Aussie regs ( not that I really care). My understanding is hids need to be coupled to a self levelling system, maybe the EAS has given us an edge here?. I have been using one of these H4 bi xenon kits for 3 years on another car with no issues apart from a bulb out warning light easily cured by removing said warning light bulb. Even had the car over the pits for inspection with no dramas and have been pulled over many times by unhappy patrol men looking for faults again with no issues. I was pulled up over led side lights not showing bright enough in daylight though.
At the risk of being unpopular I will answer this… Under Aus vehicle laws this is NOT legal. HIDs installation needs to include self levelling headlights (yes another computer in the L322/D3,4/RRS), headlight wipers, and a projector and lens unit designed for HIDs. The later is because the focal point of a HID bulb is different to the halogen it has replaced and causes glare outside of the intended light area. It’s an easy check - all HIDs with a halogen part number (H7, H4, H1 ect) have been fitted to halogen lights, you will notice that legal HID installations have completely different globes (like D1S for eg).

As we have noticed very rarely is anyone pinged for it – I know of an Audi owner that was but I believe his were set far too high and he was pulled over for another offence first. Personally I think the enforcement agencies are under resourced and have far better things to do, and like all the illegal over sized tyres getting around nothing will happen until they prove the mod has contributed to a series fatality - they simply don't have the man power - if that happens there will be a crack down…

andrew e
22nd September 2010, 05:46 AM
At the risk of being unpopular I will answer this… Under Aus vehicle laws this is NOT legal. HIDs installation needs to include self levelling headlights (yes another computer in the L322/D3,4/RRS), headlight wipers, and a projector and lens unit designed for HIDs. The later is because the focal point of a HID bulb is different to the halogen it has replaced and causes glare outside of the intended light area. It’s an easy check - all HIDs with a halogen part number (H7, H4, H1 ect) have been fitted to halogen lights, you will notice that legal HID installations have completely different globes (like D1S for eg).

…[/SIZE][/FONT]

I had a read of the adrs a while ago (very very hard to uderstand leagal crud), and everything you state above is correct. However, i believe that the rules may have changed slightly. The headlights on most new cars with hids do not have wipers, and the suspension can be self leveling instead of the lights.

The other thing it neds to have is an E4 stamp on the headlight itself, and the HID can be no more than 35W.

In all, yes they arent legal, However, if you have them properly adjusted and keep the globes to 6000k or less, the chances of getting done are next to none.

From a safety aspect, the advantages of correctly adjusted HID headlights far outweigh the fact that there is a 1 in a million chance you may be asked to change them back to normal globes.

Andy

Rushy
23rd September 2010, 09:02 AM
What about just doing the High Beam, I find Low beam satisfactory most of the time, if you wish go stay legal Philips do a very hot (read bright) legal halogen, I fitted them to my D1 and the improvement was out of sight( no pun intended). They are not cheap, quality rarely is, and they can be hard to find due to the cost but they are well worth it especially if you combined them with HID High beams which is my plan.

Cheers

Rushy

harlie
23rd September 2010, 02:46 PM
What about just doing the High Beam, I find Low beam satisfactory most of the time, if you wish go stay legal Philips do a very hot (read bright) legal halogen, I fitted them to my D1 and the improvement was out of sight( no pun intended). They are not cheap, quality rarely is, and they can be hard to find due to the cost but they are well worth it especially if you combined them with HID High beams which is my plan.

Cheers

Rushy

Ebay - from UK for less than 1/3 of $ in local stores

bluedisco2
24th September 2010, 08:33 AM
Hi guys, i've actually done a 35 watt hi/lo conversion on my D2 using a kit from Jaycar which costs around $135. It works perfectly and hasnt presented any problems at all.
I was considering doing the same to my newly aquired 2000 P38 and have followed this thread with interest.
What if any is the difference between the D2 and the P38 when it comes to the headlights and thier wiring?
cheers,
Deano

D2 V8 modified lifted, locked 33's - the fun vehicle &
2000 p38 pristine and white - the town car

Scouse
24th September 2010, 08:37 AM
Wiring up the lights would be the same if it weren't for the bulb failure system the RR has.

If you can live with the warning flashing up all the time, the kit can be fitted the same way.

wayneg
31st May 2011, 10:03 AM
Just thought I would bump this to the top again to see if anyone had has a good result yet with the can-bus issue.
There seem to be a few kits on the market now which are different to the one I fitted to my Merc. H4 hi low which are completely plug and play, one individual set for each side, ( Bulb ballast and error cancel unit) not one set running from the same kit loom.

mogswoffy
31st May 2011, 06:46 PM
interesting thread, i just have 90/110w halogens in a standard headlight and the difference is significant when compared to a standard 55/60w bulb. they are also far cheaper than HID bulbs and no changes to any wiring or headlights is needed.
Can't see (no pun intended) any reason for all the hassle of changing to HID lights.

wayneg
31st May 2011, 08:36 PM
interesting thread, i just have 90/110w halogens in a standard headlight and the difference is significant when compared to a standard 55/60w bulb. they are also far cheaper than HID bulbs and no changes to any wiring or headlights is needed.
Can't see (no pun intended) any reason for all the hassle of changing to HID lights.

I have the same type 100w bulbs as you, ice white, but the just don`t come near the illumination of the Hid kit I fitted to my other car. They are definitely an improvement over standard bulbs though.
I am on my 10th round of e-mails with a seller to establish if he has this new type of kit and will it work without warnings.
Have also just ordered 2x 8 smd led canbus 501 bulbs for the sidelights. Hopefully that will mean no more yellow hues from the front lights of my car.

DT-P38
31st May 2011, 09:30 PM
Hopefully that will mean no more yellow hues from the front lights of my car.

I would like that too! Let us know how you go with your e-mail buddy

wayneg
1st June 2011, 02:15 PM
Another wild goose chase, not what it seemed.
I have had another thought. You can buy a bike kit for around $40. Has anyone got a bike with one of the single H4 kits fitted? If so could you try it out on one side of the P38. If it works with no error issues on one side a second kit would do the same on the other.

Anyone who has fitted a kit and then got error messages are the errors for one or both sides.

Hoges
1st June 2011, 04:53 PM
Seriously thought about a HID upgrade after a trip in a friend's Audi, but in the meantime opted for the improved halogen offering ( "+20s" or something like that.) Recently did a couple of long distance night runs...damned if I could use high beam more than 20% of the time due to constant oncoming traffic... mainly trucks. which meant that at times was driving outside the range of the low beam cutoff... :o

I'll keep sitting on the fence and follow this thread! :D

Scouse
1st June 2011, 07:53 PM
You can buy a bike kit for around $40. Has anyone got a bike with one of the single H4 kits fitted? If so could you try it out on one side of the P38. If it works with no error issues on one side a second kit would do the same on the other.That's the way I was going to go until I just split the regular car kit into 2 & fitted a couple of diodes.

996TURBO
2nd June 2011, 08:31 AM
Bought 2 motorcycle kits H4-3 35w with direct H4 feed ( no battery harness). No more errors. Perfect

996TURBO
2nd June 2011, 08:32 AM
Photo of that harness

DT-P38
2nd June 2011, 12:57 PM
Where from and how much?

wayneg
2nd June 2011, 01:00 PM
I have bitten the bullet and ordered a kit.
The guy I was dealing with has agreed to make up a specific kit which is basicly 2 bike kits in one. The Ballasts are the canbus 55w not the usual 35w and the light colour is 4300k, pure white. Bulbs are H4/3. Not got the final conversion price yet but will be just over A$73 inc DHL delivery. Fingers crossed they dont show any warnings.

wayneg
2nd June 2011, 01:14 PM
Just got and paid the final bill and after exchange conversion its A$73.39, RESULT!

996TURBO
2nd June 2011, 08:02 PM
Where from and how much?
Ebay China.

Here for example
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/HID-Motorcycle-Kit-H4-Bi-xenon-Hi-Lo-Slim-Ballast-6000K-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem1e63807778QQitemZ13051 8382456QQptZMotorsQ5fCarQ5fTruckQ5fPartsQ5fAccesso ries

Should i say that i tried everything on the market before succeed with this form of kit.

I started with normal ballast : errors
Used Mercedes, Audi and BMW special anti error harness : errors
Used Can Bus ballasts : errors
Used bulb clone like Paul's photo : errors

All the problem comes from the fact that a standard car with H4-3 kit uses only 1 H4 connector.

With bikes kit in this specific form (no battery feed), there's the solution.

Don't use the most popular kind of kit ie with relay and battery connection :



https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2011/06/1397.jpg

wayneg
3rd June 2011, 02:41 PM
I got the new style led canbus bulbs today for the side lights. One word, AWESOME. Totally transforms the look and they are so bright, who needs DLR`s with these switched on. No warnings on the dash either. When I imported my Merc it had to have an inspection. It failed as the sidelight bulbs were leds and they stated they were not bright enough in daylight. These bulbs consist of 12 smd leds and are a 100 times better and brighter. Cant wait for the 55w Hids to arrive.

996TURBO
3rd June 2011, 03:12 PM
I got the new style led canbus bulbs today for the side lights. One word, AWESOME. Totally transforms the look and they are so bright, who needs DLR`s with these switched on. No warnings on the dash either. When I imported my Merc it had to have an inspection. It failed as the sidelight bulbs were leds and they stated they were not bright enough in daylight. These bulbs consist of 12 smd leds and are a 100 times better and brighter. Cant wait for the 55w Hids to arrive.
Where did you find those? I'm running 5 smd leds version with canbus too that i'll trash in the town car (Chevy Spark)

996TURBO
3rd June 2011, 03:16 PM
Just thought I would bump this to the top again to see if anyone had has a good result yet with the can-bus issue.
There seem to be a few kits on the market now which are different to the one I fitted to my Merc. H4 hi low which are completely plug and play, one individual set for each side, ( Bulb ballast and error cancel unit) not one set running from the same kit loom.
Looks like we are talking about the same style of kits (bikes kits) and that'll work for sure. I tested it.:)

wayneg
3rd June 2011, 05:04 PM
Where did you find those? I'm running 5 smd leds version with canbus too that i'll trash in the town car (Chevy Spark)

Put the 5 led ones in the number plate lamps, I have done that and they look good. The 13 led ones are from e-bay as usual And at around A$3.50 for the pair delivered should be a compulsory buy for any P38 owner.


2 T1O 501 13 SMD LED Side Wedge CANBUS Light Bulb Lamp | eBay (http://cgi.ebay.com/2-T1O-501-13-SMD-LED-Side-Wedge-CANBUS-Light-Bulb-Lamp-/180669023528?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a10b68528)

996TURBO
3rd June 2011, 05:35 PM
Thanks for the link. Already have replaced all the bulbs of the p38 by leds;). Even trashed a 80smd strip in the tailgate to lighten the trunk like a vegas limo :)

wayneg
3rd June 2011, 05:57 PM
Thanks for the link. Already have replaced all the bulbs of the p38 by leds;). Even trashed a 80smd strip in the tailgate to lighten the trunk like a vegas limo :)

Dont get me started on my love of LED`s. I have replaced most of the lights in my house with LED`s, many with remote control colour changing and flashing modes. Have many led strips hidden for mood lighting and can out perform most night club light shows.

PaulP38a
4th June 2011, 12:24 AM
quite a while ago I started to put a list together of replacement LED lights for the P38 at LED Lights PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/led-lights/)

I should revisit it as I have replaced most lights except the dash with LED's.

I would welcome contributions to complete the list.

Wayne - I'd love to hear more about your project to replace household lighting too... maybe in another forum? I have replaced a few of the screw-type lights with LED's, but not the bayonet or G10's yet.

Cheers
Paul.

DT-P38
4th June 2011, 12:46 AM
Just got and paid the final bill and after exchange conversion its A$73.39, RESULT!

Hey ley us know how they turn out... I really like the sound of the 55's and that pirce is a steal compared to the majority of car type kits.

As an aside, do you know: How much are replacement globes and how long are they supposed to last? Are there any adverse things to be aware of when using for 4wd like swimming, hot/cold climate and bumps and bangs?

PaulP38a
4th June 2011, 01:14 AM
Hey ley us know how they turn out... I really like the sound of the 55's and that pirce is a steal compared to the majority of car type kits.

As an aside, do you know: How much are replacement globes and how long are they supposed to last? Are there any adverse things to be aware of when using for 4wd like swimming, hot/cold climate and bumps and bangs?

Am keen to get Wayne's impressions too. My HID's have been running fine for ages (Sept last year) other than the warning message, and have been swimming, climate changes (I'm in Canberra!) and gotthe occassional bump or two off-road ;)

My only disappointment is when I go to high beam and the light becomes yellow again. Must get around to fixing that with another HID or LED light set.

Cheers, Paul.

wayneg
4th June 2011, 10:12 AM
The hid bulbs are the moving shield type H4/3. These are the same as I fitted 4 years ago in my Merc. They still work fine. The bulbs can be had separately via e-bay.
The Kit I have got is coming direct from a wholesaler in China. I am sure they could supply spare bulbs as well. What makes the price so great is it includes DHL tracked shipping not EMS which is woefully slow. Hopefully they will get here early next week. I will report back ASAP after fitting and will be happy to pass on the sellers details.
I have told the guy I was dealing with if all goes well he can expect a few enquires regarding a P38a specific kit. He was very helpful, quick to reply and keen for the business. The 35w kits would be about A$7 cheaper. Payment is via Paypal so safe.

wayneg
8th June 2011, 04:28 PM
The Kit arrived this morning safe and sound. Its a complete plug and play, zero cutting or connecting of extra wires so anyone can fit this. All working first go and NO ERROR MESSAGES as 996Turbo advised.
The longest part is securing the ballasts. Each comes with a plastic plate which you secure before snapping the ballast in. Looking down behind the headlights on both sides Land Rover have provided 6mm threaded holes which I used to bolt both plates down. No more than 30 mins all up.

One strange thing that had me worried, without the engine running switching between high and low beam caused the horn to bip, ( bip only when door open) also the radio momentarily switched off along with all interior lights, . With the engine running this did not occur at all, I tried it several times with the exact same result . Maybe my battery is a bit iffy? I have tried the Headlamp Courtesy light function and this still works as it should

As its not dark I will have to wait to re-align the headlamps and go for a spin to get the full effect. As Paul has pointed out the existing inner main beam bulbs are looking very yellow compared to the new 4300k lights. When I was fitting them I had old and new running on either side and I can already see the light output on the new is much greater. If the new lights are sufficient on their own I will most probably put LEDs in the inner mains to keep everything white.

Hoges
9th June 2011, 04:47 PM
The Kit arrived this morning safe and sound. Its a complete plug and play, zero cutting or connecting of extra wires so anyone can fit this. All working first go and NO ERROR MESSAGES as 996Turbo advised.
The longest part is securing the ballasts. Each comes with a plastic plate which you secure before snapping the ballast in. Looking down behind the headlights on both sides Land Rover have provided 6mm threaded holes which I used to bolt both plates down. No more than 30 mins all up.

One strange thing that had me worried, without the engine running switching between high and low beam caused the horn to bip, ( bip only when door open) also the radio momentarily switched off along with all interior lights, . With the engine running this did not occur at all, I tried it several times with the exact same result . Maybe my battery is a bit iffy? I have tried the Headlamp Courtesy light function and this still works as it should

As its not dark I will have to wait to re-align the headlamps and go for a spin to get the full effect. As Paul has pointed out the existing inner main beam bulbs are looking very yellow compared to the new 4300k lights. When I was fitting them I had old and new running on either side and I can already see the light output on the new is much greater. If the new lights are sufficient on their own I will most probably put LEDs in the inner mains to keep everything white.

thanks for the update!;)
are LEDs legal in place of the inner mains?

wayneg
14th June 2011, 01:24 PM
After a week of use I can report no ill effect to the car and all is well. The headlamps did not require any adjustment and I have not been flashed by any on coming traffic. The illumination is just so much better. Money well spent.
As there does not seem to be any double bike kits around I will be happy to pass on the detail of the seller who made up the kit for me. If you are interested Just PM me.
He sells via Aliexpress so it is a safe transaction.

PaulP38a
15th June 2011, 11:06 PM
3 sets ordered for my toys ;)

PaulP38a
1st August 2011, 12:43 AM
Finally got around to fitting the HID's and can report that I no longer get the bulb failure messages.
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5242-1/IMG-20110801-00071.jpg

Similar to Wayne, I do get a reset of the dash lights and radio when I switch them on. I'm guessing it is a current/voltage spike, and don't like it. I will contact the supplier to get a set of 35W/4300K lamps to see if this corrects it. Maybe another/bigger relay?

Securing the ballast on the RH side was pretty simple by drilling a couple of holes in the plastic between the battery and the lights
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5206-1/IMG-20110731-00054.jpg

On the LH side, the only space left was on the bracket that holds the headlamps
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5209-1/IMG-20110731-00056.jpg

Replaced the park lights with a couple of 13 SM-LED's (no errors)
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5194-1/IMG-20110731-00050.jpg

Parkers only:
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5239-1/IMG-20110801-00070.jpg


A shot with HID's, 2x 36W light bars, and 72W centre light bar :cool:
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5251-1/IMG-20110801-00074.jpg

Will have to some more wiring before fitting the 120W and 240W light bars. If these work out ok on my cars, we will start carrying them through Hard Range.

Cheers, Paul.

wayneg
1st August 2011, 03:28 PM
Where I fitted my ballast there was no need to make any holes as there were already threaded holes there. Behind the headlamp looking down there is a threaded hole on each side close to the body mounting bolt. I just put the plastic ballast mount over the area, and made a new hole in the plastic ballast mount to suit.
The interior lights flicking off when you turn on the hids is certainly disconcerting at first. After using them for a while it almost seems the initial current draw from the hids sucks all the possible juice for a second. Once the hids have been on for a while and they are turned on and off it does not happen?
At least I am content now there is no ill effect ( fingers crossed, touching wood) and the hids perform admirably.
Paul if you get a result with another relay please take pics, make big diagrams etc as I am pretty hopeless with wiring and would like an easy fix. What do you think of the Led sidelights, I showed them to a mate at night and he though that it was low beam headlamp.

Keithy P38
3rd August 2011, 06:46 AM
Wayne,

I have also got the 13 LED's for my parkers and I agree that they are awesome! Looking at them directly you'd be fooled into thinking the headlights were on, but looking from the drivers seat there's a lovely white glow on everything around, not quite low-beam like, but still quite bright!

I also got some 15 LED globes (SMD) for my tail lights and a few various sized ones for my interior light globes! I think they are fantastic!

Haven't sent an email off to get the HID's as yet though...

Cheers
Keithy

PaulP38a
7th August 2011, 10:05 PM
35W HID bulbs with 35W ballasts are on their way from the same bloke in China to see if they fix the "reset issue".

Wayne - love the LED park lamps. Fitted them to the Missus' black P38 and the Freelander. 2 pics below show the old bulb on the passenger side (right in pic) and 13 SM LED on drivers. Check the contrast:
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5257-2/IMG-20110803-00085.jpg
and
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5263-1/IMG-20110805-00088.jpg

Like Wayne says, could almost be mistaken for low beam
http://paulp38a.com/gallery/d/5260-2/IMG-20110803-00086.jpg

Cheers, Paul.

996TURBO
15th August 2011, 10:25 PM
Wayne,

I have also got the 13 LED's for my parkers and I agree that they are awesome! Looking at them directly you'd be fooled into thinking the headlights were on, but looking from the drivers seat there's a lovely white glow on everything around, not quite low-beam like, but still quite bright!

I also got some 15 LED globes (SMD) for my tail lights and a few various sized ones for my interior light globes! I think they are fantastic!

Haven't sent an email off to get the HID's as yet though...

Cheers
Keithy
I also got the 13 LED's but i have an issue with those.

Bulb connector isn't as tight to hold those firmly. I do have light but sometimes a bulb failure message.

Do you know if i can tweak the bulb connector?

rovercare
16th August 2011, 06:16 AM
Should be bashed out with a breaker bar, hid in normal lights are terrible for other road users:(

wayneg
16th August 2011, 01:12 PM
Should be bashed out with a breaker bar, hid in normal lights are terrible for other road users:(

was only a matter of time before a comment like this popped up. Correctly adjusted lights are what is important. I have had hids in my Merc for over 4 years with no complaints. Even had someone drive my car whilst I was in another to make doubly sure.

wayneg
15th March 2012, 09:39 PM
I also got the 13 LED's but i have an issue with those.

Bulb connector isn't as tight to hold those firmly. I do have light but sometimes a bulb failure message.

Do you know if i can tweak the bulb connector?

I have had a bulb out warning for the o/s park light and on investigation found the bulb had came out of the holder. After a 15 minute Blonde session where I was trying to fish for the bulb through the small hole in the headlamp my Brain re-engaged and I took the headlight bulb out to retrieve the small bulb.
Obviously as these 13 led bulbs are longer than the normal bulb, the bulb holder terminals need to be tight. A quick gentle squeeze with pliers on the holder put back the required Grip to the terminals and the bulb is now firmly in place and working again.
As an update the issue when turning on the Hids for the first time still persists but with no ill effects. Paul, did you have any luck with the 35w set?

ytt105
15th March 2012, 10:49 PM
Wayne
Concerning the surge when you first turn on.
I'm guessing that one of your ballasts is fitted to the plastic panel near the radiator.
Am I right?
Add an earth lead to this ballast bracket.
Fixed mine immediately!

PaulP38a
15th March 2012, 11:40 PM
As an update the issue when turning on the Hids for the first time still persists but with no ill effects. Paul, did you have any luck with the 35w set?

I have been running the H4 35W/35W set for ages with no adverse issues other than the occassional "reset" of the instrument lights and stereo when the lights are first switched on... seems to only happen if I turn the lights on quickly after starting the ignition. If I wait a few seconds and/or rev the engine, no issues. Will check the earth per Trevor's suggestion.

I took out the H1 55W/55W high beam set a couple of months ago. They threw errors and caused the "reset" every time.

Was just looking at the boxes of HID's I have, and somehow I have a pair of 9005 55W/55W as well. Not sure why, maybe for the Freelander or Crewman?

p38arover
22nd October 2012, 10:58 AM
quite a while ago I started to put a list together of replacement LED lights for the P38 at LED Lights PaulP38A.com (http://paulp38a.com/99p38a/led-lights/)

I should revisit it as I have replaced most lights except the dash with LED's.

I would welcome contributions to complete the list.

Paul, most of the pics on that page no longer work. Also, I note you call the bulbs "blade" - I think the usual term is "wedge base".

Interesting that your rear map lights are wedge base fitting. Mine are Ba9s miniature bayonet.

PaulP38a
22nd October 2012, 11:13 PM
Thanks for pointing that out Ron. I will get around to fixing those pics some day.

With your recent experiences doing interior lights, you could probably write your own page? Let me know if you intend to and I will take my page down, or you are welcome to help me put updated/correct info on mine to share with others.

Cheers, Paul.

p38arover
23rd October 2012, 08:07 AM
No, I won't be writing any more pages. I'm no longer on RangeRovers.net (haven't been for the last 12 months) and I haven't updated any of my pages on there for quite some time prior. I don't even update my own website (hasn't been updated in years - time to pull it down).

p38arover
23rd October 2012, 08:09 AM
No, I won't be writing any more pages. I'm no longer on RR.NET (haven't been for the last 12 months) and I haven't updated any of my pages on there for quite some time prior. I don't even update my own website (hasn't been updated in years - time to pull it down).

I'm happy to help with yours.