The Water pump debacle thread

[Scallops]

Folks - thought I'd start a new post regarding my still ongoing water pump / thermostat install - mainly because the first part was in my "Help Please" thread - and I don't need help now - I need a bullet. :p

So - day 6....

Last night was the fan install - took me more hours than I will admit to here. But at least I didn't stuff that bit up. Tonight - I tried to install the thermostat housing and thermostat - ended in tears with me snapping the stud in the triangular top of the housing assembly.

Seems that the thermostat I have makes the top of the housing sit out to a point where I need 3 X 0.8 mm gaskets to give enough clearance to do up the nuts properly. Would never have figured that out without Killer's help - mate - don't ever move from Ipswich! :D

So - I drive over to Killers - we get the stud I broke out - Mick provides a new one - so all is well.

Tonights mission - make 2 more gaskets.

[harry]

hmm dan,
it would be nice to have the correct thermostat.
but in today's world, maybe that is a bit hard.
i presume the thermostat is the right way around?

and to annoy you more, trying to be helpful here, it would be better to make two gaskets and a metal shim the shape of the gasket.
generally if you stack multiple gaskets, the internal pressure, and the clamping pressure tends to squish the stack out as well as causing the housing to warp as you over tighten the thing down.

[The ho har's]

Oh Dan, Oh Dan, Oh Dan, can we make a backyard mechanic out of you yet:(:):)...hope so or you will be relying on friends for evermore but hey what are friends for............:D:D:D

see you on Sat with matilda I hope:D


Mrs hh:angel:

[Blknight.aus]

STOP

dont make the gaskets....

I'll get you some 3mm gasket card from work.

layering gaskets is not a good plan unless its a get you home fix that you intend to fix properly later.

[123rover50]

Forget thick gaskets.
Get the right thermostat. I got mine from Repco the are not hard to find.
Triton TT1 or QTH 100.
Easy as.
As for water pumps get a new cast iron one from the mob in Melbourne cheap at $110.
Didiman

[Scallops]

This is the thermostat I got....the non bellows type on the Series one shop page....

Cooling (http://www.seriesoneshop.com/contents/en-us/d27.html)

I'm told that this is the "right" thermostat - albeit not the original Bellows type.

I think the reason I need a thicker gasket isn't because the thermostat isn't appropriate - but
because the original gasket was that thick.

As to the right way around - the spring bit is facing down.

Confused now. Everyone has different advice. But for the reasons above and
because I know he's always right - I'm going with Dave.... thanks - PM sent. ;)

BTW - Ho Hars - I'm doing my best. I haven't bothered any of you regarding this job, have I?

[The ho har's]

BTW - Ho Hars - I'm doing my best. I haven't bothered any of you regarding this job, have I?

No doing very well there...keep up the good work;):D


But we are here if you need us;):D

[scarry]

It's all good practice for when the Puma comes out of warranty;)

[123rover50]

This is the thermostat I got....the non bellows type on the Series one shop page....

Cooling (http://www.seriesoneshop.com/contents/en-us/d27.html)

I'm told that this is the "right" thermostat - albeit not the original Bellows type.

I think the reason I need a thicker gasket isn't because the thermostat isn't appropriate - but
because the original gasket was that thick.

As to the right way around - the spring bit is facing down.

Confused now. Everyone has different advice. But for the reasons above and
because I know he's always right - I'm going with Dave.... thanks - PM sent. ;)

BTW - Ho Hars - I'm doing my best. I haven't bothered any of you regarding this job, have I?

As you were..
Ill shut up.

[numpty]

Keep on struggling Dan;) I'm sure you'll get there eventually.

Living and learning they call it.:D

[Scallops]

As you were..
Ill shut up.

I didn't mean to suggest you should shut up! :) I appreciate you trying to help. But I am pretty confident the thermostat the S1 shop supplied isn't the issue. :)

BTW - I can now get the triangular thermostat housing top piece to tighten down on the thermostat housing assembly just using the 1 X 0.8mm gasket. I'd like to show Dave and Mick before I replace it on the engine.

Might not need any thicker gasket. Maybe you guys can take a gander at it on Sat or Sun arvo?

[Scallops]

Brought the entire housing into work with me today - and showed it to our Mechanical Engineer who looks after our Vibroseis trucks etc. He took a minuscule shave off the circular base cup (on the triangular upper part of the thermostat housing) which fits into the top of the square housing assembly.

So the 2 pieces now match up perfectly - using the 0.8mm gasket I originally had. The issue was that the thermostat had a slightly raised ring around it's circumference which was not allowing the top piece to bolt down completely flush - albeit by a bee's dick. It is now all good - I'm going to steam ahead and try to finish this off all by myself! :blink:

It's not like we can't easily take it back off if it resembles a water pistol once I'm finished! :D

[digger]

Go Scallops Go!!

(do a good job, I dont want it leaking when I grab it....:twisted:.... err..:eek:.. I meant, it would be a pity if it leaked when you were driving!!:angel:)

keep going mate, every bit is another book in the memory bank library!

[series1buff]

The TT1 thermostat fits perfectly ..Super crap auto sells them , fits a Ford Falcon..TRIDON brand from memory . They are available in different temp. range too 160-180 e.g. Make sure you fit the rubber sealing rings to it , they are sold seperately , the rings bed against the housing , you could probably make up some rings from rubber sheet or an old inner tube

MIKE

[Scallops]

The TT1 thermostat fits perfectly ..Super crap auto sells them , fits a Ford Falcon..TRIDON brand from memory . They are available in different temp. range too 160-180 e.g. Make sure you fit the rubber sealing rings to it , they are sold seperately , the rings bed against the housing , you could probably make up some rings from rubber sheet or an old inner tube

MIKE

Appreciate the help, but let's not confuse the issue :D - the thermostat I have is sold by the Series 1 shop - and it does fit perfectly - there was just crap on one piece of the housing at first . Looking at the Tridon TT1 - I have the same thermostat.

The housing didn't have rubber rings when it was dismantled. It didn't leak. I am using a gasket. I can't use both - otherwise, a gasket won't seal. I'll just do it this way and see what happens. :) Rubber rings were used (as per the workshop manual) with the Bellows style thermostat.

BTW - The maker actually recommends a paper gasket for this thermostat - not rubber rings....

http://www.tridon.com.au/partfinder/default.aspx

[extreme]

At least the spotlight is off of Grover. :angel:

[Scallops]

At least the spotlight is off of Grover. :angel:

:D Just leave Grove out of this - he's going like a German band these days....;)

[The ho har's]

At least the spotlight is off of Grover. :angel:

:lol2::lol2::lol2:


Mrs hh:angel::angel::angel:

[numpty]

Go Dan, go you good thing.:p

BTW, Leon will be very disappointed if his new best friend is not there on the 19th.:o

[Scallops]

Go Dan, go you good thing.:p

BTW, Leon will be very disappointed if his new best friend is not there on the 19th.:o

Matilda here - "Fear not Leon, I'm sure my owner is slowly starting to understand me - he managed to reassemble my thermostat housing without breaking any of my precious BSF threads this time - silly boy - so he is well on track to putting me back together.

I'll see you on the 19th with my other friends, Zara, Onslow and hopefully - another lady I've heard sweet things about, a Miss Gumnut". :burnrubber:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

You are an amzing woman Kat:TakeABow::p

[Kat Woman]

You are an amzing woman Kat:TakeABow::p

15 years.....

[Scallops]

Cripes - now I'm being rubbished by my own truck, the fourex man - and my wife! :blink:

[Blknight.aus]

and a series driver...

calling that white thing you drive a landrover....

the cheek.

[Scallops]

and a series driver...

calling that white thing you drive a landrover....

the cheek.

Well, at least it's going at the moment!

Anyway - Day 8 :eek: - I am now officially not only the world's slowest "mechanic" - and I use the term in the loosest possible sense, but also the world's worst.

After finally putting everything back together - I ask you all this....

"What is the difference between my cooling system and a sieve?

Answer - a sieve holds more water. :BigCry:

ABD is now a distant dream. :( So - who can loan me a car trailer? Kind of over this now.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

ok,, a big tablespoon of cement for you!!:p

where is this fountain?

[Scallops]

It's between the thermostat housing and the top of the pump. Killer just came by and took a look - the good news is, it's not my fault - the bad news is - the pump is coming back out and being returned to the S1 shop in Melbourne.

There is at least a 4mm gap between the copper connecting piece/washer and the thermostat/pump. Dud part. Very poor. I knew it wasn't really an "original part" when I discovered it had 6mm metric threads to attach the fan - now this. There is no way to get around this problem, so back out it comes. Back to square 1.

So I'm going to try to get a new pump from FWD or at least a kit to rebuild the original pump.

Totally ****ed off - official scratching for All British Day. At least this thread is aptly named. :mad:

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Your middle name Ron?:p:p

not good but its not your fault,,:BigThumb:
and with all your new found experience the process should go a lot smoother this time around.

and there is always ABD 2011;)

[numpty]

You can still come. :) Bring Grover instead.;)

[chazza]

It's between the thermostat housing and the top of the pump. Killer just came by and took a look - the good news is, it's not my fault - the bad news is - the pump is coming back out and being returned to the S1 shop in Melbourne.

There is at least a 4mm gap between the copper connecting piece/washer and the thermostat/pump. :mad:

A similar thing happened on mine, so I put a washer in the recess on the pump to lift the O-ring into contact with the thermostat housing. Don't know if it worked yet,

Cheers Charlie

[Scallops]

Your middle name Ron?:p:p

not good but its not your fault,,:BigThumb:
and with all your new found experience the process should go a lot smoother this time around.

and there is always ABD 2011;)

True - I have now removed the entire cooling system - fan, thermostat housing and water pump - and re smoother all the surfaces on the block for when I replace a correctly fitting setup - took me 2 days the first time - about half an hour this time! :D


You can still come. :) Bring Grover instead.;)

I know - dunno though, I'm kind of so ****ed off right now...It's a day for classics - not Pumas.


A similar thing happened on mine, so I put a washer in the recess on the pump to lift the O-ring into contact with the thermostat housing. Don't know if it worked yet,

Cheers Charlie

Heya Charlie - Killer and I considered that this solution might work - but because it is the 3rd issue I've had with this pump (1st - filing to go over the timing case, 2nd - 6mm metric fan bolts rather than BSF, 3rd - **** poor tolerance) - I decided enough was enough and I'm returning it.

Comparing the old to the new pump - now it's back off the block, I can report I make it to be about 2.5mm shorter than the original pump - plenty enough to leak!

[The ho har's]

I know - dunno though, I'm kind of so ****ed off right now...It's a day for classics - not Pumas.


well park Grover in the car park and walk in and buy you're badge;)

Mrs hh:angel:

[Scallops]

well park Grover in the car park and walk in and buy you're badge;)

Mrs hh:angel:

Or spend the day working on replacing the water pump so I stop missing events like this.

[Blknight.aus]

there is a way around this problem...

want me to come have a look?

[Scallops]

there is a way around this problem...

want me to come have a look?

If it means a permanent fix and I don't have to send it back and find another pump - I'm keen to know more!

But a 2 rubber washer solution is to my judgement, not going to last. I don't want to have to do this all over - but I trust your call.

I'm not is a position to do anything further tonight, but if you are free during the week please do come and take a look - let me know 'cos otherwise I'm sending the bloody thing back to Melbourne. :D

[Blknight.aus]

make an aluminium gasket from a sheet of 4mm (or whatever the largest measured face deviance is) then reassemble.

if you can get the ally I will make the time available to help you shape it up to get matilda to the show.


if you can give me the overall minimum sheet size before I rack out tonight, I'll raid the scrap bin to see what IVe got, If Ive got something suitable we can start work tonight.

[The ho har's]

Please answer Dave scallops..:D:D maybe phone call would be quicker


Mrs hh:angel:

[Blknight.aus]

the really stupid bit is...

Im pretty sure I have his phone number and can call him...

but Ive saved his number under a real name and not an alias and as murphy doesnt like me the only names in my phone that dont have duplicates are family and people I know arent him.

[The ho har's]

the really stupid bit is...

Im pretty sure I have his phone number and can call him...

but Ive saved his number under a real name and not an alias and as murphy doesnt like me the only names in my phone that dont have duplicates are family and people I know arent him.
:angel:

Try Dan and Kat


or PM me you're number and I will tell you there's:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Blknight.aus]

got it, the big question is...

will he answer or does his phone show up incoming numbers and he wont talk to me incase I pick on his ford again.

[The ho har's]

first tell him you will fix his water pump...the **** on his ford:eek::o:D


works for us;)

[Scallops]

Thanks Ho Hars - Dave called me - I was asleep - having a weird nightmare about a water pump leaking. :D

Hey Dave - I was kind of half asleep when we spoke :closedeyes:- I'll see you tomorrow night, as arranged. But if the aluminium gasket solution is only going to be temporary - and I will need to later remove this pump and refit the original with a new kit fitted - I'd prefer to not use the new pump at all. Rather, I feel I should send it back now - even if it means missing ABD. I can't really ethically use it for a week or two - and then send it back.

But if I can use the new pump with this gasket as a permanent solution - and rebuild my original pump and keep as a spare - then I'm happy to go ahead. Does that makes sense?

But please come over tomorrow as arranged and I can show you the situation first hand.

[Blknight.aus]

sure you can use it as a permanant fix, but its not very OEM....

[Scallops]

sure you can use it as a permanant fix, but its not very OEM....

Let's do it then - I'm care little about the rivet counting aspect - as long as it works and will do so as per a normal spec pump - then that's fine.

[Killer]

ok,, a big tablespoon of cement for you!!:p

where is this fountain?


Coming out of his eyeballs.:BigCry:

[Scallops]

Coming out of his eyeballs.:BigCry:

Yeah - until I got your call, mate. ;)

We're taking another tack here now - Killer has sourced me a full rebuild kit for my original pump - so I'll fit that - replace the pump (return the new one) - and - then, as long as everything is fine - drag my sorry arse down to Ternnyson next Sunday and spill beer on everyone - in Matilda! :cool:

I'm going to pull a few all nighters if necessary - and with my track record - it's entirely possible I'll need the full 120 hours between now and Sunday but I'll do it - and then this thread can be put to rest.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Thats more like it,,,:cool::cool:

[numpty]

:arms::arms::clap2::clap2::BigThumb::BigThumb:

[Scallops]

Heya Folks - this thread has legs in it yet - reckon I could write a book. The good bit - we pressed out the old impeller from my original pump to be rebuilt - the other bit - a Series 3 kit ain't even close.

Anyway - here's the cause of the problem - the replacement pump is not tall enough to meet the thermostat housing and seal.


Original pump

http://img201.imageshack.us/img201/4823/img0034dq.jpg (http://img201.imageshack.us/i/img0034dq.jpg/)

New pump - to be returned...

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/999/img0035i.jpg (http://img295.imageshack.us/i/img0035i.jpg/)

PS - Thanks Dave for coming around to help out - much appreciated - as are the support posts from Pedro and numpty - I'll get there!

[numpty]

2 steps forward and 1 back Dan. But you're getting closer all the time. ;)

It's the only way to learn...........by your mistakes and trial and error.:cool: Gawd knows, I've made enough of them!

[Scallops]

I really hope FWD motors just made a mistake and they do have a S1 pump rebuild kit - otherwise I'm kind of stuck in the short term.

I contacted the S1 club in England - they don't have any - suggested Dunsfold which will mean a wait. And to think - everyone laughed at me when I predicted this would take me at least a month to fix! :D

On the bright side - if I do miss Sunday (which is now perhaps inevitable) - at least I won't get soaked - the forecast is for heavy rain, and with one of my door tops at the HoHars to be welded, perhaps that's not such a bad result. :angel:

PS - the madness continues - I just rang FWD to let them know the kit they supplied Killer is for a S3 and won't fit my pump - bloke there assures me that the S3 impeller will fit my pump - even when I pointed out it has a completely different diameter! This is getting silly now! :D I almost expect to spot the TV camera and have it revealed I've been set up by candid camera or something...:eek:

[ososlo]

I just checked with Forward Specs in Auckland...they have a water pump for an 86 inch in stock...$162 + gst. You can get hold of Bill on NZ 64 9 8281433 or sales@landroverparts.co.nz.

Hope this helps...I get all my bits from them and rebuilt my 56 86inch a few years back with parts from them...Good luck

Graeme
Gisborne
NZ

[groucho]

curiosity got the better of me, measured the a old pump






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1200.jpg

[Scallops]

I just checked with Forward Specs in Auckland...they have a water pump for an 86 inch in stock...$162 + gst. You can get hold of Bill on NZ 64 9 8281433 or sales@landroverparts.co.nz.

Hope this helps...I get all my bits from them and rebuilt my 56 86inch a few years back with parts from them...Good luck

Graeme
Gisborne
NZ

Thanks Graeme - just sent them an email to see if they have a rebuild kit - btw - although my vehicle is an 86 (it has a 1955 86 chassis) - everything else is 1957! It was originally registered as a 1956 to split the difference I presume - and I just kept it that way to avoid confusing the motor registry when I got rego.

So I need a 1957 part - probably the same - not 100% sure. But I'll find out when I get an email back so thanks for your help. :)

[groucho]

measured No 1 new pump





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1199.jpg

[groucho]

No 2 new pump




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1198.jpg

[Scallops]

I cant see where you are taking the bottom measure from - but your 2 measurements are pretty close mine are not.

[groucho]

No 3 new pump




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1197.jpg

[Scallops]

So groucho - all your pumps are pretty close - so they will work. Original = 104.9 mm, 1st new = 104.40mm, 2nd new = 104.14mm, 3rd new = 104.64mm. Mine have almost 2 mm difference. Where did you get them? Can you source a rebuild kit?

[groucho]

to make matters worse the holes in the top are machined to different depths too. 1 / 001.99 2 /002.04 3 / 002.47. The series 1 re pro pumps vary widley in quality the bearings are crap and the spindle is a different size either end. They are a means to an end. i have 3 repro pumps off friends and they didn't go for long at all. some are made in India where quality controll is not all that good. Most types of repro pumps have no locating hole the grease /oil the bearing. Try to get a NOS by all means, worth hunting for.....





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1196.jpg

[Scallops]

Yeah - my new pump has no locating/grease hole either - it's going back - I'll find a rebuild kit.

[groucho]

What you could do as a temp fix. I have seen it done. Yes it works
(I'll put me helmet on) thread the thermostat housing and fit a brass ferrule
and a fat O ring to take up the gap. That housing came off a friends L/R that was repaired on a trip around OZ and lasted for years. Your friends up there will have an idea how to do it. You can still drive your L/R till you get a O/H kit for your old pump.......









https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1188.jpg

[Scallops]

What you could do as a temp fix. I have seen it done. Yes it works
(I'll put me helmet on) thread the thermostat housing and fit a brass ferrule
and a fat O ring to take up the gap. That housing came off a friends L/R that was repaired on a trip around OZ and lasted for years. Your friends up there will have an idea how to do it. You can still drive your L/R till you get a O/H kit for your old pump.......



Did consider that option the other day too, groucho - when I realised the connecting hole on the pump is threaded. But I'm holding out still for a proper permanent fix. :)

BTW ososlo - I got in contact with the mob in NZ - they don't have a kit - and their water pump is the same thing I have now that is poorly made - so I'll keep looking! But thanks for trying to help.

[groucho]

With the dissapointing build quality of the re pro pumps and the rarity of NOS
re build kits it may be an option. There have been at least 3 different manufactures since the original UK re pro stopped doing them. Since pulling 3 re pro pumps apart and seeing the fall in quality if doing a long trip i would certanly have a couple spare in the toobox......

[groucho]

Repco did a NOS water pump kit many moons ago.
they would be long gone by now i suppose.




https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1187.jpg

[Scallops]

Repco did a NOS water pump kit many moons ago.
they would be long gone by now i suppose.

Gee - I'd saw off an arm in return for that kit. I don't think I'll bother asking the repco store in Ipswich, but.

[dennisS1]

Not to sure what the problem is here but if it is any help I have rebuild several water pumps without any great problems, sure the bearings and seals that are readily available are not the same but converting is simple and they are quite cheap. As for the seal between the two units, slight differences don’t matter.
If you would like to talk to me about this just PM me your phone number and I will ring you.

[Scallops]

Not to sure what the problem is here but if it is any help I have rebuild several water pumps without any great problems, sure the bearings and seals that are readily available are not the same but converting is simple and they are quite cheap. As for the seal between the two units, slight differences don’t matter.
If you would like to talk to me about this just PM me your phone number and I will ring you.

Dennis - appreciate the offer - but it's all good now.....the problem is that the new pump is about 2mm shorter than is should be - so when the thermostat housing is attached, it won't compress the rubber sealing washer, which was designed to be compressed about 1mm onto the pump / housing interface - so it leaks. 2mm isn't a slight difference - its a big difference.

There are ways around this - I know - but I have just now found a NOS rebuild kit (which I've ordered) to rebuild my original pump. It never leaked before it went - and now it will be good for another 50 years, unlike the cheap replacement parts that are going around.

Thanks for your offer of help though - I appreciate it greatly.

[digger]

Scallops

can you put the details of the rebuild kit in the
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/series-i-land-rover-enthusiasts-section/110317-will-part-fit.html
thread please?


Dennis S1,
I'm pretty sure that a thread or even a detailed posting telling us how to rebuild the water pump using those other parts would be very very appreciated (even could end up a sticky?)

cheers,
Digger

[Blknight.aus]

so since I have a cancelled job tonight and I havent unloaded the foz am I coming over doing an alnighter and making a "get you going" gasket from the bits on board.

you arent likely to get turnaround on the replacement bits in time to do it all and Im off camping on friday.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

gawd,, its better than "days of our lives"
:p:p

[Scallops]

so since I have a cancelled job tonight and I havent unloaded the foz am I coming over doing an alnighter and making a "get you going" gasket from the bits on board.

you arent likely to get turnaround on the replacement bits in time to do it all and Im off camping on friday.

Appreciate the offer Dave - but no - I've just cleaned up the pump to be returned - it goes back to Melbourne tomorrow morning. As you are aware, I have NOS parts coming to rebuild the original pump. :)

I need to get this pump back and get a refund - Enjoy your camping trip.

And ososlo - the NZ guys did scrounge up most of the parts I need - only looking for a genuine seal now. So thanks a heap mate! :BigThumb:

[Scallops]

gawd,, its better than "days of our lives"
:p:p

I reckon - and it's only Day 10! :p

[dreamin']

Scallops - what a saga!

Any idea what make your replacement pump was? I bought one some time ago but haven't fitted it yet - was told it was a Bearmach product. If the same as yours I might save myself some trouble.

D

[abaddonxi]

gawd,, its better than "days of our lives"
:p:p

Like water through the cooling system, so are the Land Rovers of our lives.

[abaddonxi]

I reckon - and it's only Day 10! :p

Waterpump Watch: Day 10.

[abaddonxi]

Pumpgate.

[Scallops]

Scallops - what a saga!

Any idea what make your replacement pump was? I bought one some time ago but haven't fitted it yet - was told it was a Bearmach product. If the same as yours I might save myself some trouble.

D

It doesn't have any branding on it - the only markings are on the circular front bit where the fan bolts into - it has....

28 BO8 stamped on it - then the very middle spindle on the front has VEH stamped on it. It's cast iron. I also had to file the base to fit over the timing case - and the bolt holes wouldn't accept the original BSF bolts - they were 6mm metric instead.

I have come to know that many of these pumps will fit - I just got a dud. But the bearings in them are reportedly not so great - so I'm happier to go the rebuild route with NOS parts - maybe you could contact the fellow in NZ and do that too.


Pumpgate.

:D It's giving me pumpitations :p

[series1buff]

The bearing in the series 1 water pump is a generic bearing used in many many other vehicles . It has the impeller end turned down a bit , thats all .

You can buy a 5/8" shaft bearing from a bearing retailer , and turn down one end .

Yes, the new bearings do vary in quality .... some are crap . The older ones as supplied in NOS kits are the best . Chevy e.g., kits, made in the 40's and 50's normally have good bearings , but be carefull as the lubricant inside them can be 'dried up'.

I bought a new bearing years ago and it lasted about a week .. crap made in Taiwan .

MIKE

[dreamin']

Thanks Scallops - I will check those markings against mine

I am familiar with the NZ supplier but couldn't see the pump o/haul kit listed on their website - is there a secret password?

Cheers

D

[Scallops]

Thanks Scallops - I will check those markings against mine

I am familiar with the NZ supplier but couldn't see the pump o/haul kit listed on their website - is there a secret password?

Cheers

D

That's what I found too - It's not on the website - The secret password is an email ;) - the chap there replied and offered me the parts I have mentioned and bought - it's the entire kit minus the seal and gaskets. But they are genuine ONS. :) I don't know if he has a draw full of these bits and pieces or if I just got lucky - but an email will reveal all. :)

[Scallops]

Found a seal.....

John Craddock LTD - SEAL FOR WATER PUMP SERIES 1 - 239855 (http://www.johncraddockltd.co.uk/products/239855_seal_for_water_pump_series_1.php)

Craddocks have the gaskets too - not that we can't all make our own.

[Aaron IIA]

The bearing in the series 1 water pump is a generic bearing used in many many other vehicles . It has the impeller end turned down a bit , thats all .

You can buy a 5/8" shaft bearing from a bearing retailer , and turn down one end .


What are the other dimensions of the bearing? The diameter of the reduced shaft? I have used bearings with two different diameter shafts before.

For seals, try EagleBurgmann - Mechanical Seals, Pump Seals, Sealing Systems, Agitator Seals (http://www.eagleburgmann.com)

Aaron.

[series1buff]

What are the other dimensions of the bearing? The diameter of the reduced shaft? I have used bearings with two different diameter shafts before.

For seals, try EagleBurgmann - Mechanical Seals, Pump Seals, Sealing Systems, Agitator Seals (http://www.eagleburgmann.com)

Aaron.
Aaron
The front end shaft is 5/8" the back end shaft is 1/2" from memory . The outside of the bearing cage is 1 and 3/16" from memory , a common size .

If you use a chevy impeller like I did , no need to turn down the rear shaft as the chevy impeller is 5/8" bore... so just use the shaft ' off the shelf'

MIKE

[groucho]

Called in to my bearing place today and we looked up water pump seals.
The carbon ring ones are hard to find but the ceramic ring are the go now
He will get back to me when he finds the right type and size. Mostly made in china and india . Still quite common.......






https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1065.jpg

[groucho]

We also talked about water pump bearings. As stated in a previous post they are also quite common. BUT i told him i want Quality ones. We found a range made in Sweden will see if they do the size...........







https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1064.jpg

[russellrovers]

It's between the thermostat housing and the top of the pump. Killer just came by and took a look - the good news is, it's not my fault - the bad news is - the pump is coming back out and being returned to the S1 shop in Melbourne.

There is at least a 4mm gap between the copper connecting piece/washer and the thermostat/pump. Dud part. Very poor. I knew it wasn't really an "original part" when I discovered it had 6mm metric threads to attach the fan - now this. There is no way to get around this problem, so back out it comes. Back to square 1.

So I'm going to try to get a new pump from FWD or at least a kit to rebuild the original pump.

Totally ****ed off - official scratching for All British Day. At least this thread is aptly named. :mad:
hi i will bring my spare p ump jim we willcmpare it to orginal jim

[groucho]

A quote from a seller in the UK..







This is a new replacement Water Pump for the 1600 and 2 Litre engines.

A poor reproduction, not normally the quality of product we sell, however they are the only 1600/2 Litre Water Pumps available.

To fit correctly, the holes for the fixing bolts need to be drilled out oversize and part of the casting where it touches the front cover will need grinding or filing to clear.

[mildred]

A quote from a seller in the UK..







This is a new replacement Water Pump for the 1600 and 2 Litre engines.

A poor reproduction, not normally the quality of product we sell, however they are the only 1600/2 Litre Water Pumps available.

To fit correctly, the holes for the fixing bolts need to be drilled out oversize and part of the casting where it touches the front cover will need grinding or filing to clear.


that seems clear to me how about you others out there?
quotes are good

[Scallops]

Some good news now! :banana: I've got all my parts for a rebuild - ALL original too. I just took delivery of a water pump seal from Craddocks in the UK - and also now have the NOS parts to rebuild my original pump.

Well - check this out - the seal is genuine NOS too - packed in July 1956! :eek:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img814.imageshack.us/i/img0048t.jpg/)

I reckon this is GOLD...

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/img0049za.jpg/)

They also sent me an original gasket complete in 54 year old grease proof like paper - it has a wonderful yesteryear smell. God I love my Series 1. ;)

[Killer]

Sooooooooooooo, I am guessing I will get a visit tomorrow morning then.;)

Cheers, Mick.

[Blknight.aus]

you watch, grovers going to get jealous and spag the pump now.

[The ho har's]

Quick put a trip up and then drive matilda down here...will even put a BBQ on for you:D


Mrs hh:angel:

[harry]

Some good news now! :banana: I've got all my parts for a rebuild - ALL original too. I just took delivery of a water pump seal from Craddocks in the UK - and also now have the NOS parts to rebuild my original pump.

Well - check this out - the seal is genuine NOS too - packed in July 1956! :eek:

http://img814.imageshack.us/img814/9094/img0048t.jpg (http://img814.imageshack.us/i/img0048t.jpg/)

I reckon this is GOLD...

http://img820.imageshack.us/img820/6372/img0049za.jpg (http://img820.imageshack.us/i/img0049za.jpg/)

They also sent me an original gasket complete in 54 year old grease proof like paper - it has a wonderful yesteryear smell. God I love my Series 1. ;)
i sincerly hope to be proved wrong, but if the seal has any rubber in it it is probably shagged, they just do not last. i have plenty of experience with wartime packaged parts like this for aircraft, old is not necessarily gold.
if you want to fix it, maybe i can help.
i have to go to warwick tomorrow, maybe i can divert on the way home.
i think you have my no.

[Scallops]

i sincerly hope to be proved wrong, but if the seal has any rubber in it it is probably shagged, they just do not last. i have plenty of experience with wartime packaged parts like this for aircraft, old is not necessarily gold.
if you want to fix it, maybe i can help.
i have to go to warwick tomorrow, maybe i can divert on the way home.
i think you have my no.

It's completely rubber, harry. I guess I'll find out soon enough. But, looking for a positive - if you are right - this thread has legs. :(

PS - thanks for offering to help out - I'll be in Brissy later tomorrow, but.

[Scallops]

Well - After harry's post, I couldn't take the suspense any longer - so I opened that amazing time capsule.

It took me some effort to actually get through the box's outside seal, then - when I gingerly opened the box - I was presented with another fully sealed package - complete with oil fill in a heavy duty grease proof paper - and more genius script to show it's heritage, the seal finally presents itself - hey - maybe I got lucky, but it's as good as the day it was made. :cool:

Gee - I wish they made stuff for my Puma like Rover used to. This 86 is going to outlast humanity. ;)

[Scallops]

Well - my water pump is rebuilt (all original parts) - thanks Killer, your expertise has been invaluable. ;)

Here is my rebuilt pump - Killer even painted it :cool: ....

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/3186/img0050if.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/img0050if.jpg/)

Isn't it beautiful :wub: :p

http://img411.imageshack.us/img411/3669/img0053kj.jpg (http://img411.imageshack.us/i/img0053kj.jpg/)

And here is why the old one failed - amazing that the bearing spindle could rust down to this stick thin diameter - before snapping. :eek:

http://img69.imageshack.us/img69/5150/img0052up.jpg (http://img69.imageshack.us/i/img0052up.jpg/)

Reckon I've got a few years of solid water pump performance to look forward to now, though. ;)

Again, appreciate everyone's help with all of this - once the paint on my inlet pipe dries - it's all going back on.

[chazza]

Top work Scallops!

In my case, all of my pumps had aluminium bodies and there wasn't much left of them, so I was happy to get a cast iron, one even if it has been strangely made.

Don't forget to use Bars Leaks, or something similar, to keep the new one in top order,

Cheers Charlie

[Blknight.aus]

he puts bars leak in it and I'm going straight round to steal the vehicle, just on general principals.

[Scallops]

he puts bars leak in it and I'm going straight round to steal the vehicle, just on general principals.

Might give the bar leaks a miss then :D - wot (sic) is bar leaks?? :eek: :D

[Blknight.aus]

its an addative that blocks up small leaks in the system, Its the lazymans approach to cooling system maintenance. Think of it as a light duty version of chemiweld.

[Timj]

Many people are also of the opinion that Barsleaks and other similar products tend to block up the small passages inside the engine even when they are not supposed to. So it tends to be an emergency option only.

TimJ.

[harry]

it's good stuff, even mr ford put it in new falcons from new [think they needed to years ago]
it doesn't stuff up anything.

but it does stop leaks.

[Scallops]

It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing. :(

How the hell do I get the 0.5 cm stud out of the thread going into the block? I tried turning it with pliers but I can't get a grip on it. And where might I get another bloody bolt that is the same BSF thread?

I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more. I'm going to find out if RACQ Ultra care will take it to Redcliffe for me. It is better to try and fail than to never try, I guess.

[101RRS]

I have found Bars Leaks does block some of the tubes in the radiator but Chemiweld does not.

There are coolant based lubricants around that help lubricate the water pump without blocking anything.

Garry

[chazza]

I have never had an issue with Bars Leaks blocking anything it shouldn't! It is also a corrosion inhibitor and compatible with anti-freeze and other corrosion inhibitors.

Chemi-weld is superb at permanently blocking cracks, especially in castings but it is not recommended to leave it in the system permanently and it is not compatible with corrosion inhibitors,

Cheers Charlie

[WhiteD3]

I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more.

Don't you dare! Take a break for a few days. Give up now and you'll regret it.

[harry]

It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing. :(

How the hell do I get the 0.5 cm stud out of the thread going into the block? I tried turning it with pliers but I can't get a grip on it. And where might I get another bloody bolt that is the same BSF thread?

I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more. I'm going to find out if RACQ Ultra care will take it to Redcliffe for me. It is better to try and fail than to never try, I guess.
you know what we say,
it didn't happen without pics.

if you have enough stud left to grab with pliers, try using vice grips, also a heat gun applied to the area around the stud may help to loosen it,
but a picture helps us to help you.
oh. another bolt, shouldn't be hard, lots of us old fellas never throw anything away.
i would come and help, but tomorrow is booked for more aeroplaning stuff, after all that's what pays the bills.

[Blknight.aus]

It's rather doubtful that I'll ever get to the stage to use "Bar Leak" - just broke one of the 8 studs replacing the water pump. Think it's time for me to reconsider this entire thing. :(


I can be there tomorrow with a car trailer, I'll just consider it payment for past assistance and advice. :)




How the hell do I get the 0.5 cm stud out of the thread going into the block? I tried turning it with pliers but I can't get a grip on it. And where might I get another bloody bolt that is the same BSF thread?


You come and borrow my drillouts or easy out and drill bit sets. you might just be able to get it with the stud buster butif it needs at least 3mm proud of the block and a fairly clear flat area to work in.




I'm sorry to let everyone down - including myself, but I've come to a point where I don't think I can face this any more. I'm going to find out if RACQ Ultra care will take it to Redcliffe for me. It is better to try and fail than to never try, I guess.

Dont stress, it happens allow me to show you what happens when you let real amatures have a crack at a water pump, compared to those monkeys your a 5 star pro. Even if you dont come round to borrow the tools come for a look at the pump and I promise it will renew your faith in your ability.

you have the numbers

[slug_burner]

One thing is for sure this has provided you plenty of opportunities to learn things you never even new needed to be learnt. Sounds like tou are about to learn how "eazy outs" work. If there is enough thread for pliers then get a pair of vice grips onto the peice before you round it off any further.

[Ratel10mm]

Hi, I'm new here and have no idea of the space you're working in. However, if the stud is un-salvageable and you have enough room, file flats either side of the stud and get a spanner or mole grip on it.
These things are heartbreaking, speaking from personal experience. But when you get over it & finally have it (whatever it is) fixed it's the greatest feeling in the world.
Sounds like you have a great bunch of enthusiasts around you too. Good luck, I reckon you can do it! :)

[numpty]

You'll get there Dan ;). You have to admit, by these trials, you are learning heaps.

If nothing else, this thread is a great source of entertainment...........and learning;), for many.

[Scallops]

You'll get there Dan ;). You have to admit, by these trials, you are learning heaps.

If nothing else, this thread is a great source of entertainment...........and learning;), for many.

Well, I'm glad it's entertainment. But not for me. Not anymore. It's making me feel quite useless and I'm really quite down about it all.

I'm not sure I am learning anything now. My confidence is shot. If I try to do up a bolt - I have a 1 in 8 chance of breaking it - I'm not a mechanic - I have no prior experience - I have no idea how tight to do things up. Things either leak or break.

I don't want to be a constant source of bugging my LR friends with this, so once Dave shows me how to get the last bit I broke out - I'm taking it to a mechanic. This job should take hours - not months.

From there I will obviously need to assess my worthiness of even owning such a precious vehicle. I love it - but if I simply can't keep it running, what's the point?

But I do sincerely thank everyone for helping. However, 5 odd weeks sitting there rusting is not doing anyone any good.

[abaddonxi]

I snapped off three bolts and two extractors last time round, reckon you need to pick up your game there.;)

And on at least one of them I was using a torque wrench and a manual.

[extreme]

Hi Dan,

Do you think that you're the only one who has moments with their Land Rover ? :p Cheer up, we will all see you driving Matilda around soon. :D

[Scallops]

It's a record I'll not be challenging, Simon.

Even when the water pump is fixed - I have no idea if there has been further damage caused by driving the vehicle in this state - I didn't realise it had happened until a few miles of travel when I smelt oil. If I have damaged the engine , this will truly be a disaster. When did temperature gauges become standard?

So there is a distinct possibility other things will also need to be fixed. I don't know. That is the problem.

[Scallops]

Hi Dan,

Do you think that you're the only one who has moments with their Land Rover ? :p Cheer up, we will all see you driving Matilda around soon. :D

No - of course not - but I think there is a sliding scale of natural ability in this area too - and I'm rapidly finding out which end of the scale I'm firmly attached to. I feel this vehicle is too special to have a muppet working on critical items.

[groucho]

Don't give up it's only a broken bolt. Think how some of us feel restoring a basket case, not easy. Those bolts on a series1 probably have been tightened dozens of times, so expect to break a few along the way.Try to mig weld a nut onto the broken bit. It won't be rusted in so it will probably come out easy. Drilling those water pump bolts are a pain in the ring as you don't have a great margine to work with. Wish i had to only worry about one piddly broken bolt..........

[slug_burner]

Dan,

Don't give it up. You at least have the courage to give it a go. The muppets are the ones that are not willing to even think about giving it a go little less getting their hands dirty. Everyone crossthreads bolts, breaks bolts and lots of other things. If no one did things like that they would not have invented extractors/eazyouts.

We all understand that you are feeling frustrated and if you havent done this sort of stuff before it can be very testing on what little confidence you have mustered up. It is much easier when someone is there to show you how to do it but we don't all have that luxury. This forum is the next best thing and better still people who are nearby and are willing to come and help you out when you get stuck.

Don't give up, it is not your daily driver and it will not matter if you don't have it going on Monday morning. Don't let it get you down it is a hobby. You don't get the same satisfaction if you pay someone else to glue your Airfix model or to go and hit that golfball for you.

Keep your chin up, you will get there.

[Killer]

Well, I'm glad it's entertainment. But not for me. Not anymore. It's making me feel quite useless and I'm really quite down about it all.

I'm not sure I am learning anything now. My confidence is shot. If I try to do up a bolt - I have a 1 in 8 chance of breaking it - I'm not a mechanic - I have no prior experience - I have no idea how tight to do things up. Things either leak or break.

I don't want to be a constant source of bugging my LR friends with this, so once Dave shows me how to get the last bit I broke out - I'm taking it to a mechanic. This job should take hours - not months.

From there I will obviously need to assess my worthiness of even owning such a precious vehicle. I love it - but if I simply can't keep it running, what's the point?

But I do sincerely thank everyone for helping. However, 5 odd weeks sitting there rusting is not doing anyone any good.

Friends is what we want to be Dan, a friend is happy to be called upon in times of difficulty. I consider it an honour to be able to help you, or anyone else I can help in times of need.:)

Cheers, Mick.

[Col.Coleman]

Harden up Princess.

These things keep going for ever, with neglect, no oil, full of sand and what not. It's not some modern engine that is going to spit the dummy because the coolant is the wrong colour. The tolerances of the engine are much wider.

Nothing in mechanics is ever straighforward. In fact, if ever anything goes to plan, I always ask myself, what have I missed, as it is not normally ever that easy. You have to build up a bank of experience to call on, which means losing, missing, breaking and stuffing things up.

Now take your skirt off, put your overalls back on, and finish it yourself. Or else, get out of the way and let Kat do it:D

CC

[Blknight.aus]

well thats that out.

[Scallops]

well thats that out.

I'm inspired again! Thanks Dave.

[101RRS]

Maybe a good lie down with a Bex and a bottle of Bundy will help things.:D

[Scallops]

After being shown a fully mangled water pump - maybe I'm going OK.

[drifter]

After being shown a fully mangled water pump - maybe I'm going OK.

Believe it, mate.

There are things that have been deeply buried that are far worse than the odd broken stud or toasted water pump.

Most of us have a tale we could tell - but prefer not to ;) Most of us have also been helped and shown by someone when things have got to breaking point. :wallbash:

[Timj]

Well, you can't learn what not to do by doing it right first time can you?

But seriously the studs have probably been over tightened before or are just fatigued from being 55 years old. It will happen, it's why it's said that you need more than one series vehicle, so at least one of them is on the road at any given time :).

TimJ.

[Blknight.aus]

since the radiator is out (Had to get the drill in there somehow to get the hole made for the easyout to break in) dont forget you still need to

fix the shroud
make up a nut strip to mount the radiator bolts to
give the radiator a proper flush with the flush gun
temporarily put the pump and the thermostat housing on the block with a rubber gasket so the block can get a back flush with a flush gun....

and you thought putting the pump back on would be the end of it...

Dont ya just love it when a mechanic comes round just to remove a broken bolt..

[Scallops]

since the radiator is out (Had to get the drill in there somehow to get the hole made for the easyout to break in) dont forget you still need to

fix the shroud
make up a nut strip to mount the radiator bolts to
give the radiator a proper flush with the flush gun
temporarily put the pump and the thermostat housing on the block with a rubber gasket so the block can get a back flush with a flush gun....

and you thought putting the pump back on would be the end of it...

Dont ya just love it when a mechanic comes round just to remove a broken bolt..

I did love it - but when you said that if... (insert fix # 33).....failed it was a new engine - I almost had a stroke. :eek:

I've just got home - my replies above were from my mobile as I was out and about. I hear the harden up crowd chorus. Cement on board.

Dave - I've got to do some work for next week now - but I'll give you a call during the week after I have attempted to decipher all your PM instructions and make sure I understand correctly what I need to do next.

I guess yesterday's effort left me feeling less than useless - and not knowing any better - assumed it was purely my incompetence. Whilst there was no doubt a healthy serve of this ingredient, at least now I know it can kind of happen to anyone, and I'm not the first - or the last, who will go through such trials and tribulations.

The Scallop shall continue - the Scallop shall prevail! :blink:

[slug_burner]

The Scallop shall continue - the Scallop shall prevail! :blink:

That is more like it.:)

[Blknight.aus]

I guess yesterday's effort left me feeling less than useless - and not knowing any better - assumed it was purely my incompetence. Whilst there was no doubt a healthy serve of this ingredient, at least now I know it can kind of happen to anyone, and I'm not the first - or the last, who will go through such trials and tribulations.

The Scallop shall continue - the Scallop shall prevail! :blink:

just remember the water pump I showed you. That was done by 2 persons who have had the same official training that every mechanic in the ADF gets before they get let loose in the real world to do their log book.

I dont reckon you're doing so bad.

[chazza]

Most of us have a tale we could tell - but prefer not to ;) :

If it makes you feel any better Scallops; I once fitted a brand new clutch to my Morris Minor, after re-ringing the engine and changing the bearings. During the re-build of the engine, it turned by hand quite easily - I checked after installing each piston in case I had made a mistake. For some reason when I put the flywheel on, it didn't seem to want to turn as well anymore but I put it down to the friction of the new rings and pressed-on, instead of trying to work out why.

By the time the engine was bolted to the gearbox not even the starting handle could turn the engine; from this I deduced a tow start would be needed. My cobber arrived in his S3 and we hooked up the tow rope; after about 20m there was a jerk and everything seemed to free-up except that letting out the clutch in gear didn't seem to be doing much good. Suddenly there was the ghastly smell of burnt clutch lining and I parped furiously to get him to stop. He towed me home in a cloud of smoke :(

A strip down the next day showed that the flywheel ring gear was only partially on - and had been for years by the look of it - and for some reason it had decided to jam against the housing around the flywheel! I knocked it back on with a club hammer, whilst I contemplated the ruins of a perfectly good, brand-new driven plate. At least it taught me to critically examine every flywheel I ever met since then :)

Good luck with the S1, we have all been there,

Cheers Charlie

[Pedro_The_Swift]

A long time ago I decided my L300 needed new rings, and I thought I can do this,, so it all got pulled apart, new rings and bearings installed and everything disappeared back into the motor quite nicely,,
but the starter wouldn't turn it over,,
neither would the roll down the drive,
and neither would the roll from Menai down to Woronora!! (Bushie where are you?)
I know now that bearing caps have to go back on in a certain way:angel::angel: ( I was at least consistent,, they were ALL wrong:p) and new valve guides (valve guide?? what was a valve guide?)would probably have been a good idea too someone said afterwoods.
The car ran faultlessly till I sold it after I fixed it properly.

Matilda doesn't deserve a better owner,, she's knows she's got the right one,, its the owner that doesn't realise it yet--

[Killer]

The Scallop shall continue - the Scallop shall prevail! :blink:

You had better get down to the local greasy shop and get a healthy serve of.......................................... Potatoe Cakes.:D:D:D:D:D:D:D:D

Cheers, Mick.

[drifter]

<snip>
Matilda doesn't deserve a better owner,, she's knows she's got the right one,, its the owner that doesn't realise it yet--

Sums it up nicely

[Scallops]

Another question - after rebuilding the water pump with original parts, Dave has said it's not right as it's too stiff (who would have thought :wallbash:). How many times can these parts be re - pressed into the pump? Is it any number of times or will it become too loose?

[series1buff]

Another question - after rebuilding the water pump with original parts, Dave has said it's not right as it's too stiff (who would have thought :wallbash:). How many times can these parts be re - pressed into the pump? Is it any number of times or will it become too loose?

Not sure what you mean .... But the bearing itself can become loose in the housing ,the alloy housings are softer and more prone to this . I've seen one where they had to machine up a sleeve to take up the slack.

You can use loctite to hold it in if its not too loose... works fine .
MIKE

[Scallops]

I was asking this - as the impeller is pressed onto the bearing, if it is removed to check/redo the pump rebuild, will it still be tight enough when it is re pressed onto the bearing?

[series1buff]

I was asking this - as the impeller is pressed onto the bearing, if it is removed to check/redo the pump rebuild, will it still be tight enough when it is re pressed onto the bearing?

Ah OK .

I think it would become loose if you pressed the impleller on and off four or five times . But again , you can use some Loctite if it becomes a little loose . Loctite is great stuff, it comes in various strengths and grades , but it isn't cheap, it's around $20 for a small bottle . You can buy it just about anywhere - I've used it for years, never had a single failure with it ..used it on shafts, pulleys and all sorts of highly stressed gadgets . Only problem is , if you want to remove the part, you have to heat it up to loosen the hold of the loctite
MIKE

[chazza]

I was asking this - as the impeller is pressed onto the bearing, if it is removed to check/redo the pump rebuild, will it still be tight enough when it is re pressed onto the bearing?

I would very careful about pressing the impeller off - they are inclined to break! :eek:

What does Dave mean about it being too tight? Is the impeller rubbing on the housing, or does the bearing seem tight?

Cheers Charlie

[Scallops]

I would very careful about pressing the impeller off - they are inclined to break! :eek:

What does Dave mean about it being too tight? Is the impeller rubbing on the housing, or does the bearing seem tight?

Cheers Charlie

The impeller isn't rubbing on the housing - it has the specified 0.5mm clearance - killer said he thought it was just the seal bedding in. The bearing is tighter than the original, but I assumed that was because the original is very well worn - if not almost too worn. We did add some thick oil into the bearing grease point before putting the locating screw back in too.

I reckon the pump might actually be fine - but I shall defer to Killer and Dave's better judgement with all of this - so let's see how it all goes. :)

[Blknight.aus]

its got the feel of over tightened bearings, a quick spin up for a minute or so on a drill with the pump in a bucket of water to keep it lubed will soon tell what its going to do. If it frees up its the seal and a combination of your oil and the OEM packaging grease getting bedded, if it doesnt free up it may be too much compression on the bearing shell in which case theres nothing that can be done about it other than to let it bed in and hope the case hardening doesnt give up.

[Scallops]

Killer is pretty confident it's just the seal bedding in Dave - we spoke about this last night. Perhaps he will elaborate.

On the sorting this still side of things, Killer is getting some 1/4 helicoils and the bolts I'll need to get this job done. He has the 3 different water pump bolts as templates.

[Killer]

The bearing had the normal feel of a sealed bearing, it was a hand push into the housing, the shaft became tight to turn, after the inpellor was pushed onto the shaft, I am pretty sure it is just the friction of the seals carbon ring on the impellor face. What Dave suggests, ie. running it in a bucket of water, sounds like a good idea to me.

Cheers, Mick.

[toad]

I have just gone down the replacement pump issue with my 55 86" and offer a few observations:

1. If your original pump and thermostat housing are aluminium then unless in perfect condition consider dumping them and get new replacement cast iron ones. Replacement thermostat housings were readily available from UK suppliers (I got the housing and thermostat cover).
2. The replacement pump I brought did not fit well and required the following mods:
a. filing of material adjacent to the timing cover housing to allow the pump to twist into position so the top water access hole was parallel with the bottom edge of the thermostat housing.
b. When in the correct position two of the holes did not line up (as a matter of fact you could not get all bolts to fit in any position); so the offending holes were drilled out oversize to allow all bolts to fit.
c. The gap between the top of the pump and the bottom of the thermostat housing was larger than the o-ring/copper fitting so the use of RTV rubber and some fibre washers was required to seal the gap. This was left overnight before fitting with more RTV on the mating surface.
d. The fan bolt holes were metric! 4 by metric bolts were required grrr.
I now have a running system with no water leaks. Well worth the effort to get it right; just a pain in the process. Oh, the thermostat does not form a seal between the housing and the top cover (as per the V8), it seals between the top cover and the thermostat itself hence the two gaskets either side of the thermostat - it is intended that there is a gap between the housing the cover. Now don’t get me started on brakes…
Toad.

[Blknight.aus]

The bearing had the normal feel of a sealed bearing, it was a hand push into the housing, the shaft became tight to turn, after the inpellor was pushed onto the shaft, I am pretty sure it is just the friction of the seals carbon ring on the impellor face. What Dave suggests, ie. running it in a bucket of water, sounds like a good idea to me.

Cheers, Mick.

that concerns me a little, last couple of pumps Ive rebuilt the bearings have been press fit into the housing, (not a hard press fit but not just push in by hand) pressing the impeller onto the shaft didnt change the rolling resistance of the shaft. Ive had some that have had the resistance change when the bearing shells pressed all the way home but they freed up within a couple of hundred rotations of the shaft.

Time will tell.

[123rover50]

I have just gone down the replacement pump issue with my 55 86" and offer a few observations:

1. If your original pump and thermostat housing are aluminium then unless in perfect condition consider dumping them and get new replacement cast iron ones. Replacement thermostat housings were readily available from UK suppliers (I got the housing and thermostat cover).
2. The replacement pump I brought did not fit well and required the following mods:
a. filing of material adjacent to the timing cover housing to allow the pump to twist into position so the top water access hole was parallel with the bottom edge of the thermostat housing.
b. When in the correct position two of the holes did not line up (as a matter of fact you could not get all bolts to fit in any position); so the offending holes were drilled out oversize to allow all bolts to fit.
c. The gap between the top of the pump and the bottom of the thermostat housing was larger than the o-ring/copper fitting so the use of RTV rubber and some fibre washers was required to seal the gap. This was left overnight before fitting with more RTV on the mating surface.
d. The fan bolt holes were metric! 4 by metric bolts were required grrr.
I now have a running system with no water leaks. Well worth the effort to get it right; just a pain in the process. Oh, the thermostat does not form a seal between the housing and the top cover (as per the V8), it seals between the top cover and the thermostat itself hence the two gaskets either side of the thermostat - it is intended that there is a gap between the housing the cover. Now don’t get me started on brakes…
Toad.

Ill put in my 2 bobs worth too.
Same thing with my steel pump. Bit of grinding to fit and open up a couple of holes. No problem.
For the O ring. Notice a thread cut onto the hole to thermostat housing. Same thread as an air hose fitting.
Machined one down in lathe to fit. Screw in, Bought a fat grommit at the rubber shop. Slipped over the air fitting. Then put the Thermo housing on top. The machined air hose fitting went up into the T. H. a little bit and stoppes the grommit moving out of position. All seal well.
I like those pumps and have ordered another as a spare for another project.
Didiman.

[Killer]

that concerns me a little, last couple of pumps Ive rebuilt the bearings have been press fit into the housing, (not a hard press fit but not just push in by hand) pressing the impeller onto the shaft didnt change the rolling resistance of the shaft. Ive had some that have had the resistance change when the bearing shells pressed all the way home but they freed up within a couple of hundred rotations of the shaft.

Time will tell.

It was a pretty tight hand push into the housing, what I would call a good transition fit, the bearing cant turn in the housing as there is a locating screw. The resistance changed after the impellor was pushed on because the seal face rubs on the impellor face, I would be more worried if there was no increase in resistance as it would mean the seal was not contacting the impellor.

Cheers, Mick.

[Scallops]

Well - Killer came around last night with a plastic bag which I'm hoping can put and end to the 7 week epic that has become me replacing a water pump - although, I am the last person to assume that this might actually be the case! :p

I have the helicoils and tools to install them - plus a new set of 6mm bolts to attach the pump. According to Mick - one bolt is slightly too long and might need to be hacksawed to length.

Wish me luck!

[abaddonxi]

Don't need luck it'll be sorted in a flash.

My 110 is still sitting down the back waiting for a gearbox. And I think it's been waiting since before the water pump debacle.

I'm aiming for Christmas.:D

[Scallops]

Don't need luck it'll be sorted in a flash.

My 110 is still sitting down the back waiting for a gearbox. And I think it's been waiting since before the water pump debacle.

I'm aiming for Christmas.:D

We can start this job on Dec 12! ;)

[85 county]

Well - Killer came around last night with a plastic bag which I'm hoping can put and end to the 7 week epic that has become me replacing a water pump - although, I am the last person to assume that this might actually be the case! :p

I have the helicoils and tools to install them - plus a new set of 6mm bolts to attach the pump. According to Mick - one bolt is slightly too long and might need to be hacksawed to length.

Wish me luck!

Are you going to put 6mm helicoils into 1/4 imperial?

with the drilling size of the helicoils i would strongly recommend that you just size up the imperial. Adding metric to the mix is a bit un-kosha plus helicoils can introduce problems of there own and should really be regarded as a very last resort. lastly putting some yahoo alloy into the mix is not so comfortable either.

[Blknight.aus]

Are you going to put 6mm helicoils into 1/4 imperial?

Adding metric to the mix is a bit un-kosha


this on a type of vehicle that can and often does have UNC/UNF metric BSF, BSW and BSP on one major sub assembly...


I had assumed that the bearing setup that was in the replacement kit was one of the presealed cassette bearing type replacements and I didnt get a chance to check the preload on the shaft prior to assembly. If it is just the seal bedding as killer suggests then it'll only take about a minute on a drill in a bucket of water to sort itself and its all stations go.

Dont stress the helicoiling they'll be fine.

[Scallops]

:D The last two posts - as Manuel says, Que?? :p

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/manuelis.jpg/)

[toad]

Hi,
to fix my stuffed mounting points I went and got 1/4" BSF helicoils and fixed the thread back to std and then got BSF bolts!! All readily available at the local bearing service and bolt bloke.

[Timj]

According to Mick - one bolt is slightly too long and might need to be hacksawed to length.



Hi Dan,

Just a word of warning with this if Mick has not already told you :). Before hacksawing a bolt to length make sure you have a nut already on there as you can then undo the nut and it will straighten out the threads for you. If you don't have a nut on there then the threads get hacksawed a bit out of whack and you then can't get a nut on or get it into a threaded hole.

Hope it all goes well :).

TimJ.

[Blknight.aus]

:D The last two posts - as Manuel says, Que?? :p

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/7122/manuelis.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/manuelis.jpg/)

6mm standard pitch (.75mm per thread from memory) is as near as damnit to one of the 1/4 inch threads (unc again, from memory) they are so close that if you were to wind one into the other you need to engage more than about 15mm of thread before the difference becomes noticable due to binding on the threads and even then if you were using a big enough spanner you probabley wouldnt notice it. I think what is trying to be said is that instead of opting to run a metric bolt you should redo it in imperial, basically I agree. not because of any super technical reason but based on the fact that I know that in the little dinky kit of tools you have in matilda you have the right size spanner to appropriately deal with imperial nuts and bolts.

my post was aimed at the fact that on some landies (series IIs and IIIs mainly) on some components like the engine you can find metric bolts, imperial bolts and british bolts along with a couple of bits that run british standard pipe threads.

the bit about the pump was aimed at killer, and having put the thing up on my magnetic pickup stethescope it does sound like seal wipe noise as opposed to bearing stuck noise, Hopefuly Ifg I get time to night I will run the thing up in a bucket of water for you.


Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

[Scallops]

Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

Haven't had a chance to even think about it - Saturday and Sunday is my only real chance to spend time on this. Do you recommend anyone? Maybe it's easier this time to just redo the nuts and bolts as they are?

[Blknight.aus]

the shroud may be a bit harder to do put an ask up on the forum for a panel beater or sheet metal worker, brian hejlm might know someone who can help with that. As for the nut strip its just a bit of flat bar with holes drilled in it to suit the radiator spacing and then nuts welded on or the bar tapped to the thread of the bolts your going to use.

If you can make it tonight with the radiator and the hoses I can possibly make up the bars for you, preflush the radiator and you could probably pick up the pump. (I suspect you may need that bit to keep the coolant in and make the cooling system work properly. But dont quote me on it)

[numpty]

6mm standard pitch (.75mm per thread from memory) is as near as damnit to one of the 1/4 inch threads (unc again, from memory) they are so close that if you were to wind one into the other you need to engage more than about 15mm of thread before the difference becomes noticable due to binding on the threads and even then if you were using a big enough spanner you probabley wouldnt notice it. I think what is trying to be said is that instead of opting to run a metric bolt you should redo it in imperial, basically I agree. not because of any super technical reason but based on the fact that I know that in the little dinky kit of tools you have in matilda you have the right size spanner to appropriately deal with imperial nuts and bolts.

my post was aimed at the fact that on some landies (series IIs and IIIs mainly) on some components like the engine you can find metric bolts, imperial bolts and british bolts along with a couple of bits that run british standard pipe threads.

the bit about the pump was aimed at killer, and having put the thing up on my magnetic pickup stethescope it does sound like seal wipe noise as opposed to bearing stuck noise, Hopefuly Ifg I get time to night I will run the thing up in a bucket of water for you.


Howd you go getting the shroud and the radiator bolt plates made?

:eek::eek: Except that the OD is wrong.

1/4 " is 6.35 mm. Therefore a 6mm thread is .013" smaller in diameter.

Agree re the pitch, but that's not the issue.

[Blknight.aus]

:eek::eek: Except that the OD is wrong.

1/4 " is 6.35 mm. Therefore a 6mm thread is .013" smaller in diameter.

Agree re the pitch, but that's not the issue.

so its interference thread locking when you put an imperial bolt into a metric hole...

[numpty]

so its interference thread locking when you put an imperial bolt into a metric hole...

But that wasn't the issue. Your statement referred to a metric 6mm bolt into an imperial 1/4" thread.........an entirely different animal.;)

[chazza]

so its interference thread locking when you put an imperial bolt into a metric hole...

No - it is stuff up both threads permanently time!

Why the devil wouldn't anybody re-bore the holes on the pump flange with a tapping drill of the correct size and re-tap with 1/4" BSF and do the job properly?

Cheers Charlie

[numpty]

No - it is stuff up both threads permanently time!

Why the devil wouldn't anybody re-bore the holes on the pump flange with a tapping drill of the correct size and re-tap with 1/4" BSF and do the job properly?

Cheers Charlie

x2 ;)

[Blknight.aus]

thats easy...

if its already tapped at 1/4 BSF and the threads are corroded/worn away how do you then redrill whats not there to retap it to the original thread size.



And I STILL maintain we need a sarcasm font.

[chazza]

if its already tapped at 1/4 BSF and the threads are corroded/worn away how do you then redrill whats not there to retap it to the original thread size.


Measure the PCD; weld the holes; file or machine flat; mark the new holes and drill them.

I don't understand what your point is. Didn't you advocate screwing an M6 fastener into a 1/4" imperial thread in an earlier post?

[groucho]

Welding the water pump holes on a cast iron block in situ would be a non event in my books. Drilling to next UNF size or helicoil is the way to go.

[groucho]

The rolls Royce repair is a Time Cert used them in Caterpillar blocks / head studs strong as new. Instead of going round in circles why not do it properly





++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair, (http://www.timesert.com/)

[Scallops]

The rolls Royce repair is a Time Cert used them in Caterpillar blocks / head studs strong as new. Instead of going round in circles why not do it properly





++ TIME-SERT Threaded inserts for stripped threads, threaded inserts, thread repair stripped sparkplug's, Ford sparkplug blowouts, threaded inserts threaded, repair stripped threads, stripped threads, inserts threaded inserts, Ford spark plug repair, (http://www.timesert.com/)

Yes - I want this done properly. I think we do nothing until I understand what to do - this vehicle is precious to me.

[hodgo]

Welding the water pump holes on a cast iron block in situ would be a non event in my books. Drilling to next UNF size or helicoil is the way to go.
__________________________________________________ _____________

I have got to agree with you a helicoil is the way to go cheap, easy to do, quick and as strong as new

Hodgo

[groucho]

this vehicle is precious to me...

Check out that site. there is a few vids there. Yes they are expensive
yes they are 100 times better than a "helicoil" ( i don't like them a lot)
can get them in stainless whitch is a bonus in water systems.
helicoils come out sometimes those don't. Exellent for all the alloy bits especially on bellhousings.
I reguard series good series 1 blocks precious too.

[chazza]

Welding the water pump holes on a cast iron block in situ would be a non event in my books. Drilling to next UNF size or helicoil is the way to go.

Ah my mistake - I thought the repair in question was to the water pump flange!

I wouldn't weld a CI block either.

Apologies all,

Cheers Chazza

[Blknight.aus]

Measure the PCD; weld the holes; file or machine flat; mark the new holes and drill them.

I don't understand what your point is. Didn't you advocate screwing an M6 fastener into a 1/4" imperial thread in an earlier post?

no, that was sarcasm. which is why we need a sarcasm font, kinda like the correct tension for any bolt is to do it up till it snaps then back it of half a turn for thread relief.

Ive used the timeserts before as well and while they are definately the better option, Im not sure that the repair we're doing warrants the expense or the delay in getting them, IF you happen to know a local supplier to brissy/ipswich that can do a comparable price on 1/4bsf then thats possibly a different story.

[Scallops]

I'll see you tomorrow at 1.00pm Dave - and I certainly appreciate your help. I need to educate myself some with all of this, but I do trust your judgement in the meantime! :)

I'm hoping Google will be my friend.

What an amazing journey this thread has been - good thing I haven't mentioned the fuel pump! (only joking!) :p

[Blknight.aus]

I'll demo a helicoil for you tomorrow in some scrap steel along with some other trickery that you might come across later on.

[85 county]

WOW, what a debate

helicoil's cheep & easy and no where as strong as original,
There place and where I tend to use them is in aluminum where assembly and disassembly would be done often.

Welding up and re boring then taping is always the first choice PERIOD. But this depends on material and position. A cast iron block and a vertical working face is not ideal. It is what I would do BUT is not in reality with in the skill set of many today.

2rd option is just go oversize, BUT there may not be enough supporting material surrounding the original to do this.

In that case I would still bore and tap over size then flush of a bolt, grind of the week point and weld it up. Then bore to original.

Again out of the skill set of most.

Now as most solutions require over boring and this includes helicoils and as I pointed out there can be some problems with this. so lets look at the different sizes actually needed.

i believe the original is 1/4 BSC which sounds correct

We are more interested in the dia of the bottom of the thread rather than the over all dia. or the boring size.

1/4 id .201 od .266
6mm id 5mm od .2362
5/16 id .257 od .332

so we can see that 6mm is a bit smaller than 1/4 and that 5/16 is a natural size for a striped 1/4 thread. a 5/16 would give a full clean thread.

now helicoil's

1/4 od .375

That means that the largest cut diameter for a 1/4 helicoil is greater than a 5/16 which begs the question of why use a helicoil when a 5//16 will do. That is assuming that the shank size is not an issue but then why use 6mm when the shank size is smaller than a 1/4??

As i originally posted, its just un-kosher

[Blknight.aus]

done and dusted, split the deck and pass em out, its delt with.

Matilda rolls on under her own steam, well without the steam so much now the cooling system works.

[Scallops]

done and dusted, split the deck and pass em out, its delt with.

Matilda rolls on under her own steam, well without the steam so much now the cooling system works.

:TakeABow: Quite right! :D As Borat would say, "Great Success"

And in keeping with the Kazakhstan theme - check out the wonders of methodoly of the one and only Blknight.aus - pure Land Rover genius....

We wanted to flush the block without circulating the gunk through the newly rebuilt pump, so....

http://img228.imageshack.us/img228/3456/img0069yw.jpg (http://img228.imageshack.us/i/img0069yw.jpg/)

Wooden cutout plugs - I'm keeping them - along with the inner tube tyre gaskets we fashioned....

Here is the Man himself - flush successful...

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/8167/img0071xx.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/img0071xx.jpg/)

So then in came backup in the form of Killer - he did the Helicoiling and then we rebuilt the cooling system - just to prove I did more than just order Pizza.....

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/261/img0066h.jpg (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/img0066h.jpg/)

Anyhow - Matilda is up and running again - no leaks, it's all good. Actually Dave - that bottom radiator hose that was slightly leaking - I hadn't done up the hose clamp! :blink:

And this thread is late 'cos I've been driving my love all around Ipswich :wub: Thanks everyone for your help along the way in this crazy thread - and especially Killer and Blknight - you guys are true gentlemen.

I declare this debacle OVER! :D

[Blknight.aus]

just to prove I did more than just order Pizza.....

now I know that in all the hectic production work and insult slinging I may have missed something...

but

didnt Kat order the pizzas?

was great to see the look on your face when you snicked it into gear on the road.

[hodgo]

So the saga of the water pump comes to a close, What are we going to look foward to reading now.
This would have to go down as the longest water pump repair that I know off.

Hodgo

[numpty]

Congratulations Scallops and well done to your tech support crew.:D

[abaddonxi]

Yay.:D

[Scallops]

....

didnt Kat order the pizzas?

was great to see the look on your face when you snicked it into gear on the road.

Got me again! :TIC: But it was fun going for a spin - I enjoyed watching your face driving her yourself. :)


.....This would have to go down as the longest water pump repair that I know off.

Hodgo

Come on Hodgo - it only took 10 weeks ;)


Congratulations Scallops and well done to your tech support crew.:D

Thanks Perry - your workshop manual came in very handy too. Let's get a drive in before the fuel pump goes! :D


Yay.:D

Totally Yay! And again, I thank everyone who offered suggestions as well as the folks who came over here to help me solve this - old cars can throw a few swerve balls but each thing I do, albeit with quality help, arms me with more knowhow and confidence and I am greatly humbled by the support.

Thanks,

Dan.

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Yay.:D

X2:clap2:

[digger]

done and dusted, split the deck and pass em out, its delt with.

Matilda rolls on under her own steam, well without the steam so much now the cooling system works.


Well done all involved!

MY OLD BANGER.

Once I bought a motor car,
It didn't take me very far.
Her colour was a deep bronze green,
With bits of chassis hinting a rusty sheen.
But I fell in love instantly with Matilda,
I pulled her apart and nearly killed her!

Some said I'd dropped a hefty clanger,
and that I had bought a real old banger.
I couldn't believe that this was true,
To me she was beautiful, just like new.

Petrol was her favourite drink,
The oil she burned made a tad of a stink.
She also had one spare bald wheel,
On cornering her tyres squeal.

The ho Hars helped and said to me,
She'd go for years, just wait and see.
Thanks to help from far and wide and to ZD
The Ho Hars and the colonel a special pride.

Now Matilda is completely rust free
And gleaming new paint is what people see
Matildas horn is loud and makes a lovely sound.
The steering wheel goes round and round.

She's very well sprung for her age,
Lumps and bumps don't make her rage.
When you say she's got a rattle,
I just won’t believe that tittle tattle.

What care I if parts are leaking?
At the lights I see blokes peeking
To fix the pump may have taken a while
But lets be fair, its travelling in style

Thanks to the Black Knight and to Killer
To hear Matilda purring was such a thriller,
So, Who care when your brakes don't work,
(It's not me it’s the kangaroo petrol that makes you jerk.)

You've got everything to make you go,
Some are jealous and say your slow.
Some say ugly some say plain
But know I love you just the same

You are not a Rolls or Bentley fair,
To tell the truth, I just don't care.
For my car you are and my car you'll stay,
Till the Im dead and the next guy comes and drives you away.

(Apologies to Bernard Shaw for the severe bastardisation of his work!).

[Scallops]

And that last line says it all, digger. They'll get the keys for this one out of my cold stiff fingers! :D

Thanks for the great verse. :) Between yourself and Mr Shaw - genius.

[Blknight.aus]

They'll get the keys for this one out of my cold stiff fingers! :D



hmmm, wheres my bolt cutters.. see you next cold snap. :twisted:

[The ho har's]

Thank you Digger.....


now scallops that one is worth printing off and framing;):D

hang it next to the series 1 photo...see you all at the BBQ:D

Mrs hh:angel:

[Scallops]

Thank you Digger.....


now scallops that one is worth printing off and framing;):D

hang it next to the series 1 photo...see you all at the BBQ:D

Mrs hh:angel:

Yes - I've made a fine copy and printed it - I shall do as you suggest and frame this piece and hang it next to my special Series 1 print in our home.

Thanks again digger for this verse - And thanks again everyone here - you are all wonderful people. :)

[solmanic]

I declare this debacle OVER! :D

Thank Christ for that! Hope to see you over here for coffee in her when the weather clears.


...let's just hope the clutch doesn't.... :wasntme:

[Scallops]

Thank Christ for that! Hope to see you over here for coffee in her when the weather clears.


...let's just hope the clutch doesn't.... :wasntme:

Would love to but club rego makes that one a little hard. ;)

[slug_burner]

Would love to but club rego makes that one a little hard. ;)

Thank goodness we will hopefully go over to a logbook scheme and then it will not be a problem using the car on non club events.

[The ho har's]

Thank Christ for that! Hope to see you over here for coffee in her when the weather clears.


...let's just hope the clutch doesn't.... :wasntme:


Would love to but club rego makes that one a little hard. ;)


Thank goodness we will hopefully go over to a logbook scheme and then it will not be a problem using the car on non club events.


Obviously solmanic is inviting the club over for coffee and cake;):p:wasntme:and then we can all take our club registered vehicles over;)


well Andrew???


Mrs hh:angel:

[Blknight.aus]

actually I thought you were all bringing them for their annual inspections and safety checks

[digger]

well finally something they got right in SA!!!


Historic and left-hand drive vehicles - Government of South Australia (http://www.sa.gov.au/subject/Transport,+travel+and+motoring/Motoring/Vehicles+and+registration/Motor+vehicle+types+and+specifications/Historic+and+left-hand+drive+vehicles)

from memory about $330 odd dollars for 3 years.

(less if you use even dollars or normal dollars :) )

[Aaron IIA]

We may pay a little bit more for our scheme in S.A. but at least we can drive our vehicles wherever and whenever we like, within the 90 day limit. Just write in the logbook and the vehicle is registered for the day. It gives you some spontaniety to the journey. We can also keep our normal or personalised number plates.

Aaron.

[Scallops]

well finally something they got right in SA!!!


Historic and left-hand drive vehicles - Government of South Australia (http://www.sa.gov.au/subject/Transport,+travel+and+motoring/Motoring/Vehicles+and+registration/Motor+vehicle+types+and+specifications/Historic+and+left-hand+drive+vehicles)

from memory about $330 odd dollars for 3 years.

(less if you use even dollars or normal dollars :) )

Yes - that looks like a great scheme. But SA got 2 other things right - me and Farmer's Union Iced Coffee! :p

[Blknight.aus]

Yes - that looks like a great scheme. But SA got 2 other things right - me and Farmer's Union Iced Coffee! :p


sure they did MR "I can change a water pump no worries luv...."

[solmanic]

Would love to but club rego makes that one a little hard. ;)

But we are within a 15km radius of your place and I'm sure you haven't fully road tested the vehicle yet. You must surely need to test the handbrake on our steep driveway.


Obviously solmanic is inviting the club over for coffee and cake;):p:wasntme:and then we can all take our club registered vehicles over;)

But hey... a "club" trip here for coffe is also fine by me.