Cruise Control

[DynaVT]

Hi Guys, I'm new to the forum having joined mainly due to the wealth of information regarding the fitment of a tachometer to Td5 Defenders.

I thought there might be some forum members out there interested in my cruise control project I fitted to my 2002 Td5 110 station wagon. I'm sure cruise control will be of more use to you folks given your long straight roads but I use it a lot when driving my company VW Passat and aside from leather interior and a stereo I can hear it is one of the things I miss most when driving my 110. So, having read all the posts, studied the Defender and Discovery 2 wiring diagrams and done some homework regarding switches I have now completed my project. I believe this will only work on post 2002 Td5 Defenders with standard gearing - overdrives and Discovery transfer boxes render this conversion inoperative, so I am told.

It took all day, bearing in mind that I had to make the looms, drill 4 x 22mm holes in the bulkhead and seat box, crimp on lots of connectors and make switches fit in places where they were never designed to go it was a good day's work.

So the job started with the SET/RES switch which I had thought about for ages, deciding on genuine is best. I wanted it on the steering wheel but no chance of that so the next best place was on the steering column shroud.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1448.jpg (http://img150.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=82192_P1000360_small_122_67lo.jpg)

This switch is LR part number YUH100320 and needs a 12V input and gives a 12V pulse to the ECU when you wish to SET or RES(ume) your stored speed. The 12V signal for SET goes to ECU pin 11 and the signal to Resume goes to pin 17

Next was the cruise master switch, I needed a latching switch to fit into the switch blank on the central fascia, so chose part number YUG102430 which is a heated seat switch. This sends a 12V feed to pin 15 of the ECU to enable the cruise control, it is also wired up with the side light illumination. A master switch is not essential but my better half hates cruise control so I fitted it so she can switch it off completely and it looks pretty sexy too!

Here is master switch mark 1, amazing what you can do by downloading a motorway symbol, resizing it, printing it on self adhesive label paper to make a template and then carefully scratching away the plastic on the switch blank.

http://img208.imagevenue.com/loc60/th_09279_P1000364sml2_122_60lo.jpg (http://img208.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=09279_P1000364sml2_122_60lo.jpg)


The loom exits through the bulkhead and goes two ways, down to the ECU and across to the brake light switch. There is debate about how you get the cruise to disengage when the brakes are used. I used a Discovery 2 wiring diagram but a Disco has a brake light switch with a normally closed output to the ECU for the cruise and normally open side for the brake lights, not so in a Defender as it only has a normally open brake light switch but this can be sorted with a relay as long as the solution you choose provides 12V to Pin 10 on the ECU you'll be fine. The grommet needs sorting out as the paint was still wet when I took the pic!

http://img194.imagevenue.com/loc30/th_82283_P1000363_small_122_30lo.jpg (http://img194.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=82283_P1000363_small_122_30lo.jpg)

Once into the seat box you connect the four feeds to the black ECU plug and connect up the relay to convert the 12V feed from the brake light switch to give 12V to pin 10 when the brake pedal is up and 0V when the brake pedal is pressed. I also wired in a feed for the tachometer to pin 19 while I was down there so I could fit this at a later date.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/09/1449.jpg (http://img274.imagevenue.com/img.php?image=82253_P1000362_small_122_128lo.jpg)

Total cost about £65 taking into account -

2 x genuine LR switches approx £40

7 x 4 metre lengths of colour coded 1 sq. mm thin-wall cable

Conduit, T piece and gold plated ECU connectors.

1 x switch connector for cruise master switch (heated seat switch)

Various bits of hardware to mount SET/RES switch, captive nuts, screws and insulation tape.

1 bank holiday in the sun!



Cheers, DVT

[Tombie]

Nicely done...

But why cut extra holes? Just use the existing grommets...

[Symo]

I wonder if the Puma can be done this well also. I remember with my last TD5 Defender I had a after market one fitted for almost $1,000. I wish I knew the ECU could do it with just a switch and a bit of wire.

It would be great if I could do this with the Puma also. It would be great to save the $$$$ but more so this is a more integrated option.

There are some clever buggers out there!!!

[dmdigital]

Unfortunately the Puma can't. It needs a cruise control on the CANbus that can talk to the ECM. There are a few available on the market now. The Td5 has the functionality in the ECM.


That's a really neat job though and I do wonder if the same could be adopted for the control unit on a Puma one.

[sniegy]

Well Done DVT.

Looks good with the factory switches:D

Good effort.

[mools]

DVT,

nice job.

been meaning to do this myself for a while and just got the connector pins for the ECU to do it. So a couple of questions I want to throw out there before I do....

DVT gets the 12 V supply from the brake switch, and I can see this is done, but other threads state that cruise will disengage once the ECU senses that either brake or clutch switch is activated - any one know if this is true or not?

Because I intend to mount my switches on the cubby box keeping all the wiring near to the ECU seems logical (and easier than threading through with the existing loom); other threads say you can get a 12 V feed directly from the ECU (pin 33 or 35 depending on the thread) - anyone know which pin for a 2006 defender?

Also does the 12 V feed have to turn on / off with the ignition? The easiest place for me to get to one would be from wiring routed to my auxiliary battery (my UHF) - but this remains active after the ignition is off - would taking the feed from here affect the cruise / cause a fault on the ECU on ignition? or worse??

Any answers appreciated.

Ian.

[Brute]

On Mine i have pin 10 and 15 joined together as a comman 12v feed
to two switches the other side of the switches go
one to pin 11 which sets the cuise
one to pin 17 which is resume/cancell
cruise turns off when you press the brake or clutch

[mools]

Fitted mine today,

no joy with pin 35 - no 12v feed. Hooked it up to pin 33 that was fine - cruseing I went.

So that was 10, 15 and 33 joined together - fed to two momentary switches (mounted on the cubby box) which return to pins 11 and 17.

A few hours older and a little fiddle with the connectors on the ECU and blam - the best 20 (ish) bucks I have ever spent - works a treat. Clutch / brake knocks it out, everything else still works - Awesome!

Brute, maybe I didn't even need pin 33 - but it works.

Cheers all I'm off for a long drive.

[jordsvin]

Fitted a cruise control to 2003 build D90 a while back.
Thought this might come in handy; AMP connector guide.
On Page 67 it shows the way to wire the connectors.

Yours,

Andy

[Grumbles]

No wonder the world is getting more complicated- too many clever people out there. :D Well done.

[maxwrb]

Hi,

What a great post!

Where have the pictures for the first post gone? Can they be restored anyway?

Surely this post should be kept alive as it is a great reference piece...

[technophile]

I have done the same, only cost me $5 though :D