disco II sump plug thread in sump gone

[bigcountry]

Decided to change oil in my disco 2003 TD5this time after haveing a service about 2 Months ago. Plug was not tight and spinning when I removed it.

Plug is badly damaged, but thread ok. looking for the best way to repair sump thread. Any ideas please from anyone that may have come across the same problem, cheers from Pottsville Beach 2489

[Pedro_The_Swift]

Welcome to AULRO.COM :)

Mine did the opposite,,
plug fine, alloy thread gone!

not sure how an alloy thread damages a steel plug---:confused:

I think its a 12x2mm tap,,, maybe?

[bigcountry]

My td5 has no thread in sump..plug thread ok..what do you suggest.
Is there anything I can do without removing sump?
from, Big Country

[Pedro_The_Swift]

the best solution is a helicoil,,
and while it can be done with the sump in place----

I think I'd remove it to be sure--

The kit wont be cheap either,,:eek:

anyone confirm the thread size???

[alien]

Not good when these things happen on weekends;)
You could try and get a hellicoil fitted as my prefered option.
It can be done while the sump is fitted.

Or(not as good an option IMO) retap it to a larger size if you can find a suittable bolt to fitt in the sump recess.

[bigcountry]

Where do you suggest I obtain and what tools are required to fit. Have own workshop here but have never neede to use a hellicoil thread..Cheers

[alien]

I buy my Heli-Coil, Helicoil, Helicoil Insert, Helicoil Tap, Helicoil Inserts, Helicoil Gauge, Helicoil Kit, Helicoils, Emhart Helicoil, Bollhoff Helicoil, Helicoil Plus, Armacoil, Armstrong Helicoil (http://www.helicoil.in/) kits from our local bearing/bolt/parts shop.
All tools required come in the kit with instructions(exept the drill bit).
I've been told and found that if the thread has striped there is no need to drill first.

I would suggest after cutting the tread drop a little(maybe 1 litre) kero or simmilar into the oil fill point to flush the sump plug thread out from inside to outside.
Or maybe some grease on the tap to hold the fillings as you cut the tread.
Any other ideas troups?

[bigcountry]

I buy my Heli-Coil, Helicoil, Helicoil Insert, Helicoil Tap, Helicoil Inserts, Helicoil Gauge, Helicoil Kit, Helicoils, Emhart Helicoil, Bollhoff Helicoil, Helicoil Plus, Armacoil, Armstrong Helicoil (http://www.helicoil.in/) kits from our local bearing/bolt/parts shop.
All tools required come in the kit with instructions(exept the drill bit).
I've been told and found that if the thread has striped there is no need to drill first.

I would suggest after cutting the tread drop a little(maybe 1 litre) kero or simmilar into the oil fill point to flush the sump plug thread out from inside to outside.
Or maybe some grease on the tap to hold the fillings as you cut the tread.
Any other ideas troups?

Thank you very much for the full information I needed to get this problem sorted out..ordered new plug this morning from Southport Brian Lynton.

Will chase up hellicoil today as well. Cheers from, Rob

[bigcountry]

Thank you all for your advise guys.

I suppose the nxt question is : what is the thread size of the TD5 sump plug, so I can order the correct helicoil..

cheers from, Rob @ Pottsville

[alien]

Take your new plug with you and get them to check it.
That way you will get the right thread pitch too, once fitted it's to late to change.
Best to be safe than frustrated.

[awabbit6]

I had the thread in the sump of my wife's Alfa strip (on a Saturday!) and had the same dilemma. I rang around an got prices on helicoil kits (I needed 18x1.5) and found I could get one but it was going to cost $170 (and I'd probably never use it again)

I did a Google search and found this guy:

Mobile Threadfix
Home of Mobile Thread Repair phone 0411515500 or 0409584022 servicing South East Qld (http://www.mobilethreadrepair.com.au/)
Brisbane, Gold Coast and Tweed Heads and Hinterland, Ipswich and Logan.
QLD
Australia
Phone: +61.409584022
Mobile: +61.411515500
Fax: +61.737005075
Email: threadfix@live.com

Not sure if he'd go down as far as Pottsville though.

He came over that afternoon (Saturday!) and did it with the sump on for $80. I figured it wasn't a bad price considering the price of the helicoil kit. If I had to pull the sump off to take it to be helicoiled, the gasket and helicoil would have cost the same.
The best part was that I went out and did a few other jobs and he repaired the sump while I was gone.

Good Luck

[bigcountry]

Thank you for information on Mobile Thread guy.

Will send him an email right now, Cheers to all who took the time to help out on this one., Rob from Pottsville.

[It'sNotWorthComplaining!]

Just another thought, remove the sump and braze, Tig /Mig another piece of metal at the sump plug hole and tap that?

[TonyC]

Just a thought,

Has your oil pump bolt been done?

If not I'd remove the sump and do both.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/technical-chatter/31873-td5-oil-pump-bolt-thread.html

Or search for more.

Tony

[bigcountry]

Hi Tony, well this is a new one on me. My 2003-4 model has been such a great truck, and now with 280,000 Kms on it, maybe I have been very lucky.

I have just joined this Forum, and I should have been here some time ago .
I dont have workshop manual for this machine as I have been able to work without it. Is the pump held in by a number of bolts or is this bolt nothing to do with securing the pump in?

If I pull the sump off, do I only need a sump gasket?
....is there a w/shop manual available?..so I can see what goes on inside?..before I pull it apart.

My faults over this time have been: Replaced fuel pump @ 200,000 and fuel regulator @ 150,000..also changed hose from regulator to front of the motor with a relaceable one using hydraulic type fittings, so it can be replaced without removing any other gear....

Thank you all for you helpfull advise, ..

PS: are there any other traps I should be aware of ??

Regards to all, Rob from Pottsville,where it's like Hawaii all year round..even when it's raining.

[TonyC]

Hi Rob,
I don't have a TD5 so I've not followed this as closely as I might have.

I don't think the oil pump bolt letting go is a common problem, but it's terminal if it does.

I believe the bolt in question is the one that holds the drive sprocket on, and yes there seems to be a gasket.

Page 6 and 7 of that thread has some pics.

The problem is meant to only affect some year models, but people on here have had issues outside these models.

A manual on CD is available here
Dave's Interesting Things (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=1)

I hope this is some help.

Tony

[bigcountry]

Hi Tony,
well, talk about a wealth of information...ordered my CD this morning.
got all the R Rover manuals in book form, but dont own one anymore.

Thanks Tony..from, Rob @ Pottsville Beach

[bigcountry]

New subject from me.
..Have 2 x good ign keys for 2003 model, but cases have fallen apart, they still work ok. (provided they dont get a spot of rain im them)
Question, is it possible to buy cases only?
As I am very new to this forum, are there any other posts on the subject?

Cheers from, rob@ Big Country

[robbotd5]

Hi Rob,
I don't have a TD5 so I've not followed this as closely as I might have.

I don't think the oil pump bolt letting go is a common problem, but it's terminal if it does.

I believe the bolt in question is the one that holds the drive sprocket on, and yes there seems to be a gasket.

Page 6 and 7 of that thread has some pics.

The problem is meant to only affect some year models, but people on here have had issues outside these models.

A manual on CD is available here
Dave's Interesting Things (http://www.davesitshop.com/davesitshop/index.php?_a=viewCat&catId=1)

I hope this is some help.

Tony
It's only terminal if you ignore the warning light. Or in my case now the piercing scream from the TM2!!!
Regards
Robbo