How to 4wd basics in a Freelander 2?

[fender22]

Hi all. Recently bought a Freelander 2, TD4 auto. Still a bit perplexed with the terrain selection thingy. Obviously she doesn't have low range and we don't plan on doing any really heavy 4wd'ing but wondering what you do for eg: if you have a bit of a steep down / up gully / creek crossing, where it could be slippery getting up the other side. IS there any need to select a terrain setting and if so which one would you use? (Snow/mud or the deep gravel one? Or do you just stay in 2nd gear.

What about driving along on bumpy or rutty roads? Any need to change settings. Grip wouldn't be a problem but does the terrain settings change suspension set up for a smoother ride?

The other thing I'm not sure about is the Traction control. Says you may be better off turning this off in sand but I would have thought would manage tyre spin etc better with it on?

Any help or advice appreciated.

[Tusker]

FL2 has conventional struts, so ride is unaffected by any settings.

In sand, the dashboard says to use command shift manually. Or mine does anyway. Turn the knob all the way around to sand, use 1st & keep the revs up in the soft stuff, a higher gear on the firmer stuff, you'll soon feel where it's happiest. Momentum is you friend when it bogs down. Biggest tip is let your tyres down beforehand.

For dirt turn the knob to the 1st stop. That engages the rear diff (On road the rear is engaged on take off, after that its basically a FWD car). On hills knock the lever sideways to sport mode to hang onto gears longer. You'll have more engine braking downhill & squirt uphills. If its really steep downhill I'd still be inclined to control the car with manual pumping of the brakes rather than rely on HDC. Let HDC supplement you, not take over.

Be warned though, this grass/snow.gravel setting deadens throttle response. You'll think there's something wrong with it, but not so.

I've never used it with the knob at the mud/ruts position. I have a Defender for that! :D

Regards
Max P

[fender22]

Appreciate your advice mate! So the car in normal mode is basically front wheel drive? I didn't reallize that. And you're saying going onto the 2nd
setting makes it full time 4wd. When you talk about "Command shift" and "sport mode" are they one and the same? ie moving the gear lever over to the left to select gear manually or is there a difference between command shift and sport mode?

Just on a normal dirt, corrogated road (nothing too rutted) should I select the first setting also or just leave it in normal?

Having a serious 4wd like the Discovery, are the Freelanders a capable 4wd or more of an SUV. We'll never be doing the Simpson Desert or any heavy 4wd but we did buy this because we had read they were actually considered a 4wd more than a Forrester, RAV4, Kluger etc. Much appreciated mate!

[Tusker]

Yes on-road, on the move it's essentially FWD.

Engaging any of the knob settings engages the rear diff full time as I understand it. I suspect, but haven't been able to confirm, that the traction control just gets more aggressive as you turn the knob. Sand mode is closest to fully locked 4WD.

Command shift & sport mode are related. Knock the leave sideways and it's in sport mode, with more aggressive auto shifting. From there, command shift just means changing gear manually. Pull or push the gear lever forward or backwards to change up or down. The gear you're in lights up on the dashboard. To go back to normal, just knock it sideways to the right, to the normal position.

Fast dirt roads are fine in normal mode. But it doesn't do any harm to turn the knob one notch & take advantage of the extra stability that 4WD brings.

If the track is clear, experiment with the different settings. (Needs a loose surface) In particular, go into a corner a tad too fast, back off, feel the stability control tuck the nose in. No understeer-into-the-weeds here. Break the rules, brake midcorner, or boot it mid-corner feel what it does. It's amazing.

You won't break anything experimenting with different settings on different surfaces. Rumour is, that to win the traffic light grand prix, turn it up to sand!

I didn't address your gully question last post. Traction & therefore tyres are the key to getting up a slippery bank. You should already be in the 1st setting, grass/snow/gravel, I'd leave it there. If that doesn't work, flick it around to sand & hang on.

Is it an SUV or 4WD? Tyres & lack of low range answer that one. but it's astounding where they will go. They have been across the Simpson.

Regards
Max P

[djhampson]

Its pretty much a point and shot kinda of car (same as the D3).

The TR settings just make life easier.

One tip I would add is to turn DSC off if you feel the car lose traction and the engine revs fall because DSC is trying to regain traction.

Sometimes you just need a bit more wheel spin to allow the traction control to brake which ever wheel is spinning and send power down the other wheels that have grip.

I remember a nasty hill climb in the Lockyer Valley SF where in my first attempt the car stopped at a small ridge because the front wheels spun and engine revs dropped.

Trying again with DSC off and the traction control was able to slow the front wheels enough for the rears to keep the car moving.

Momentum is your friend but momentum also breaks things. Start slow and see how it goes. If you need a bit more momentum try again.

Some interesting reading.... http://www.aulro.com/afvb/freelander/61318-freelander-2-crosses-simpson.html

[Dorko]

A good set of tyres makes a huge difference in the FL2.

In sand mode always turn off the DSC... its **** in sand, always lose the power. Use the gears or you will find auto holds on to long and you lose the power at the end. If you stop in real soft sand, reverse slightly and then take off forward. Other wise you will dig in.

I found grass/ gravel great of dirt roads holds and pulls the car back nice. I found auto was find in this mode.

In Mud and ruts i found it ran better in manual mode. On steep inclines/ declines HDC works great and can be increased or decreased in speed via the cruise control buttons. Mud ruts also works well if you take off in soft sand, but as you start to move, flick it back to sand.

Hope this helps!

Dorko

[mikehzz]

The comments below are all valid. Definitely turn the DSC off in sand or you will totally lose power when you most need it. I had mine so that I thought it was broken where the dsc kicked in permanently after clunking in on some really soft sand. The accelerator didn't work any more. I had to restart the motor to get back to normal as the electrics were totally confused. No permanent damage as that was about 50,000kms ago.
The car will climb really steep muddy rocky tracks in mud and ruts. Bigger cars need low range to go where an fl2 will go in that setting. I have had the transmission over heat once in this setting which was strange as it has never happened again even on warmer days and longer climbs. Sometimes the electrics can be odd.
I would have no hesitation doing a full Simpson crossing in it. I've already been way out into the desert from Birdsville and did it easy. It flew up Big Red.
The only thing wrong with it is it is a bit low to the ground. I've already dented my exhaust pipe on rocks twice requiring pieces to be cut out and replaced. If I could get a lift kit I would in a flash. I am also going to put 245/65/17s on next tyre change although the geolander at/s I have on are lasting too well.
By the way, the dsc really does come in with a big clunk on sand. The first time it hits you think something has broken.
Mike

[Jono70]

I was at Thredbo in late August and used my TD4 SE in snow mode. Worked wonderfully. Most cars including 4WDs had chains on but I didn't bother as it made it through snow drifts, banks, and on ice without any complaint. The hill hold saved me on one steep section but didn't need the hill decent.