$6400.00 and counting (sort of...)

[btm]

Well,

Not sure where to start. About 6 months ago a mate of mine asked me if he could use my IIa to deliver him and his groomsmen out to East Point for his wedding. I said "no worries mate, but I just have to do a couple of quick things before hand"

Well, that opened 'Pandora's Box'! I wanted to fix up the front right wheel, which had a buggered king pin (I removed some shims, years ago as a quick fix, because an over-zealous ex-army bloke, at the SA test shed, told me I needed to correct it before he would grant me a pink slip).

Anyway, That was going to be the first of the 'quick things' I needed to do before the wedding, that lead to me replace them with railko bushes, then the bottom bearings, then uni joints and short shafts, then more bearings and seals... hello, $800.00! Still need to do tie rod ends and steering stuff???

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/016.jpg

But eventually it lead to this,

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/042.jpg

That was OK though, I was able to talk the missus around this 'small problem with the car, dear...)

There was, however, a small leak coming from the front main seal (http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/IMG_1568.jpg), a small matter of blue smoke coming from the exhaust and a dodgy clutch. This all pointed to removing the engine to fix the clutch, replace the front main seal and hopefully, just a new set of rings... WRONG!!!

So i did this:

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/048.jpg


Which ended up with me doing this:

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/carrepairs023.jpg

Which I am very, very, very proud to say that I have now ended up with this:

http://i691.photobucket.com/albums/vv278/tjfrancis/carrepairs028.jpg


I'm so excited, because it is grand final eve and I get to put my fully reconditioned engine back in my IIA tomorrow! It took 21 years and a nervous final 10 weeks, and a total of $4000.00 paid to engine rebuilder (which sounds like a lot of money, but remember I live in Darwin and this guy did a lot more than i would expect i.e. Replaced lifters, re-faced fly wheel, did some tap and die stuff to head, replaced all valves and seats, re-bored .030, welsh plugs, oil pump, ground and balanced cam and crank shafts...etc.), to finally rebuild my engine!!!!!!!!!!

Very excited, must go to sleep, big day tomorrow.

tim

[101RRS]

Sorry mate - no pics there.

[digger]

click on the PHOTOBUCKET titles ,the photos will come up

[Range Blitzer]

In the shot of the front brakes, is it right that way? The shoes shouldn't be top and bottom like that should they? Mine aren't ??????
Robert.

[101RRS]

In the shot of the front brakes, is it right that way? The shoes shouldn't be top and bottom like that should they? Mine aren't ??????
Robert.

Your are correct the shoes are 90 degrees out - the wheel cylinder should be at the top.

Garry

[btm]

Holy ****... you are right... What a bastard, will thias make any difference? Assuming that I get longer brake lines so they don't snap when wheel extends (4wding). Or does this mess with the whole leading/trailing brake shoe set up?

tim

[Range Blitzer]

I reckon it would mess up the whole geometry of the braking effect. In other words they wouldn't work too well!
Robert.

[gromit]

I can't see how it would affect the braking by turning the backplate through 90 degrees. Leading shoe is still leading & trailing shoe is still trailing.
You could go the longer brakeline route, why not turn the brakeplate back to the normal position.


Colin

[mick88]

What brand of steering ball joints are you using?
I replaced all of mine (on Series 3) about twelve months ago and the rubber boots are already starting to crack and perish. Any ideas on a good brand or even where i can buy good quality boots to replace the duds with?

Cheers, Mick

[btm]

I can't see how it would affect the braking by turning the backplate through 90 degrees. Leading shoe is still leading & trailing shoe is still trailing.
You could go the longer brakeline route, why not turn the brakeplate back to the normal position.


Colin

G'day Colin,

thanks for your help. I could turn them back, but from memory I have to pull the whole hub apart again, that really ****s me. It's been a long time getting the engine re-built etc, and I just need to get the bloody thing back on the road!

I,m gonna pull the wheel off on saturday and check what was involved, but I think the bolts that hold the backing plate on are too long to pull out because they hit the back of the hub part that ahs the wheel studs on it?

cheers tim

[Shonky]

Just jack the wheel right up to drain the oil away from the end of the housing, pull the wheel,pop the end cap off, undo the castelated nut, remove the drive flange, wind in the adjusters and unscrew the brake drum, undo the 2 hub nuts and lockwasher and pull the hub - being careful not to damage the oil seal at the back.

Undo the 6 bolts on the backing plate, pull it off and put it back on properly.

Put it all back together and send the bill for 3 new brake backing lock plates, 4 new hub nut lock washers and 4 new drive flange gaskets (or a tube of goo) to your mech.

Could probably do it in 10mins a wheel - maybe less.

(I hope I haven't forgotten anything above... It's late and I'm a bit sauced. :D Cross check with manual first!)