Spacing the bumpstops

[rick130]

Seeing as the 'Suzu is deeper than the Landy engines, is it just a case of the sum being deeper, or is the arc of the crank within the sump in danger of getting whacked too if you don't drop the bump stops ?

I like the bump travel I currently have, it means I can sail over and through bumps, causeways, etc that we have to brake and slowdown for in something like our Patrol as it crashes HARD into the bumpstops if I try and drive it like the Defender.
It just doesn't have the travel up or down of the 'fender, and i fear a 4BD1 conversion, even with all its pluses (reliability, grunt, reliability, grunt, reliability, grunt......) will compromise one thing that I really like about a Landy

With the 4BD1 being an extra 150kg or so heavier and having to space the bumpstops down 40mm it'll compromise front flex unduly won't it ?

Or am I missing something ?

Basically I'm asking can I rework/fab up a new sump to clear the diff/axle or is it an absolute necessity to drop the bump stops ?

[uninformed]

Seeing as the 'Suzu is deeper than the Landy engines, is it just a case of the sum being deeper, or is the arc of the crank within the sump in danger of getting whacked too if you don't drop the bump stops ?

I like the bump travel I currently have, it means I can sail over and through bumps, causeways, etc that we have to brake and slowdown for in something like our Patrol as it crashes HARD into the bumpstops if I try and drive it like the Defender.
It just doesn't have the travel up or down of the 'fender, and i fear a 4BD1 conversion, even with all its pluses (reliability, grunt, reliability, grunt, reliability, grunt......) will compromise one thing that I really like about a Landy

With the 4BD1 being an extra 150kg or so heavier and having to space the bumpstops down 40mm it'll compromise front flex unduly won't it ?

Or am I missing something ?

Basically I'm asking can I rework/fab up a new sump to clear the diff/axle or is it an absolute necessity to drop the bump stops ?

#1 can you move the engine back? would this help?

#2 dry sump?

[flagg]

What if you mounted it a whee bit higher? (along with Gb etc)..

Or you could add a small lift?

[rovercare]

#1 can you move the engine back? would this help?

#2 dry sump?

Ever found you think to much Serg?


Rick, I ran no spacing in my rangie.....but the coils I hade did bind:angel:, made for a very solid bumpstop:DYou just keep the power on if you hit something hard...desperation would see a little clutch slip to get it on boost:eek:

[rick130]

Ever found you think to much Serg?



Naa, for a fella who hasn't got the hands on experience some have he's doing pretty good ;)



Rick, I ran no spacing in my rangie.....but the coils I hade did bind:angel:, made for a very solid bumpstop:DYou just keep the power on if you hit something hard...desperation would see a little clutch slip to get it on boost:eek:OUCH ! :lol2:

[isuzurover]

Rick - Can't answer directly, however I recently welded a big chunk of steel to the top of my axle, and it still clears the sump by a long way (got to test it on a recent trip!).

http://i124.photobucket.com/albums/p29/isuzurover/LR_PICS/Pics_Apr_2010399.jpg

[uninformed]

Ever found you think to much Serg?


Rick, I ran no spacing in my rangie.....but the coils I hade did bind:angel:, made for a very solid bumpstop:DYou just keep the power on if you hit something hard...desperation would see a little clutch slip to get it on boost:eek:

I have been accused of that from time to time ;)...But knowing Rick's skills and if he has the truck off the road to do the engine swap, how much extra work would it be to move the engine back???? the 200tdi was 8 inches further back than the 300 with NO gearbox/transfer case change... having a 130 allows for plenty of rearward moving regarding the PS and making the front PS longer would do no harm....along with the extra room allowing for a full width radiator and intercooler stacked front to back without sticking out of the grill... and then there is the weight bias thing....

atleast worth the thought and effort of busting out the tape measure.....

Serg

[Blknight.aus]

no requirement, it just takes judicious placement of the engine mounts and spring selection.

before you start. Measure the front axle weight and the clearance of the bump stops.

fit all the mods first then sort the front end barkwork, winches, dual batts up the front and whatever else your going to hang there then reweigh the front end and chock it up to the height you want between the existing bump stops.

measure your spring height at this point and then goto your suspension place of choice and tell them that you would like a set of springs to suit a deefer that have

a loaded spring height of whatever you measured them at while you had it chocked up
to support whatever the front axle weight of the vehicle was
able to compress whatever the chocked height between the axle and the bump stop was + 1 inch without binding.


That done they will say certainly sir, please empty from your wallet X dollars into my till and then the required springs will appear.

The sump of the suzi is quite deep to hold a decent quantity of oil to help deal with temp to provide a decent life between oil changes and to ensure the pickup remains covered at a reasonable range of operating angles without the pistons or crank taking a swim. providing you factor all of that in there is some scope to mod the sump.

I advise not doing so, chock the suspension at normal height under the bump stops, remove the springs and unbolt the towers and shocks, install the engine without doing up the mounts or the radiator hoses , remove the chocks and lower the chassis to the stops. If the engine clears the diff your set, if it doesnt change the bumpstops (you can get longer ones that will fit off of some isuzu trucks) or if its an only just touches thing, panel beat the sump.

[rick130]

no requirement, it just takes judicious placement of the engine mounts and spring selection.

[snip]


That's what I wanted to hear :D

Spring selection is the easy part, I just need someone that can wind the rate and free length/loaded height I want without coil binding.
Some Aussie spring makers are limited in their wire selections.

[rar110]

If moving engine back you would need to find an alternative location for the air cleaner, or different air cleaner to standard Donaldson steel canister.

[uninformed]

If moving engine back you would need to find an alternative location for the air cleaner, or different air cleaner to standard Donaldson steel canister.

if thats the hardest part of moving it rearward it will be a POP! doing that wouldnt be hard....and maybe a good option better than having it constantly rattling/vibing on the engine....

cheers
Serg

[rovercare]

if thats the hardest part of moving it rearward it will be a POP! doing that wouldnt be hard....and maybe a good option better than having it constantly rattling/vibing on the engine....

cheers
Serg

Propshafts, gear shifter via the middle of the seatbox, high low lever/linkages, handbrakes drum etc into seatbox, non factory hosing,..................


And if your going to move it back, then you'd have room for a 6BD1:cool:

[uninformed]

Propshafts, gear shifter via the middle of the seatbox, high low lever/linkages, handbrakes drum etc into seatbox, non factory hosing,..................


And if your going to move it back, then you'd have room for a 6BD1:cool:

yep, yep and yep.......all doable, all not overly hard in the sceme of things and all within Ricks capabilites. It wouldnt be hard to improve on some of those "factory fitments" ;)

nothing wrong with the big 6bd1, but im sure a well sorted turbo 4 would be more than enough without the extra bulk...

[rovercare]

yep, yep and yep.......all doable, all not overly hard in the sceme of things and all within Ricks capabilites. It wouldnt be hard to improve on some of those "factory fitments" ;)

nothing wrong with the big 6bd1, but im sure a well sorted turbo 4 would be more than enough without the extra bulk...

Yep, nothing like adding a huge workload to what is practically a very easy straight forward, engine conversion:p

[Dougal]

My rangie has the 4BD1T with no body-lift. I have the larger orange bump-stops from Paddocks and that's enough to stop things getting friendly. The tight spot for me is the corner of the diff head flange meeting the corner of the block and sump.