brake controller

[kimba 1]

Hi
Have recently bought a Disco 4 sooo happy, we all love it.
Used it for towing a car trailer to Speed on Tweed recently just magic.
Now I want to put a trailer brake controller on it cause my camper has electric brakes, don`t know what brand to by and where to fit it.
I`ll get an auto electrican to wire as I don`t want to something wrong and damage anything. Heard you velcro the controller on so you don`t have to drill holes in dash.
I`m in Sydney

[sniegy]

See here...Dont forget to use the search function.;)
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/d3-d4-rrs/97935-d4-electric-trailer-brakes.html
For clearer photo's go to the end as i have updated them.
Its all a personal thing for which controller you want.
Any questions just ask.
One thing i would do is get someone who KNOWS the vehicle (LR's) to wire in the controller as there is a few catches they may cause trouble.

Cheers.

[kimba 1]

Thanks Sniegy
Local auto electrican says he`s done a couple of D4`s already so hope he doesn`t stuff it.:cool:

[outbacktourer]

Thanks Sniegy
Local auto electrican says he`s done a couple of D4`s already so hope he doesn`t stuff it.:cool:
Give him the instructions anyway and make sure they understand them. In my case, even that did not work. Mine went back twice and they still didn't get it right. They 'did Land Rovers all the time' too. I am using a Tekonsha P3

The main problem is they think they can pick the loom up further back than from behind the tail light and tap in behind where the hitch reviever is stored. They will pick up the blue wire there thinking it is to pin 5 for the brake controller pin (it is with everything else). They will not terminate the second tail light wire (because it's behind the tail light). This will firstly result in nothing happening when you hit the brake, the power is going to the tail light circuit, which is not used in our trailer looms. The second thing is that the brakes will be fully applied when you put the headlights on.

Ask me how I know.

OBT

[ken224]

There are many types of brake controllers available, but most people use either the time delay type or the inertial type. I think the second kind (variants of Tekonsha Prodigy, P3, some Hayes controllers etc) are far superior.

Before you drill holes, cut wires and remove panels to fit additional wires and fuses, look at the RF controlled variants (Tekonsha Prodigy RF, Carlisle ElectraStar etc.) They are more expensive and may require an external adapter from the English two socket arrangement (12N, 12S) to the American and/or Australian wiring, but are then much easier to fit and remove. No need to modify the car wiring in any way. And you do not get anything to bang your knees on ...