View Full Version : Fried electrics
Rob king
9th October 2010, 11:24 AM
I've been offered a cheap range rover.
2002 v8 mk2 ps80e?
Recently someone tried to jump start it and fried the electrics
Now won't even turn over.
Any ideas what the problem might be and likely cost to repair?
Rob king.
justinc
9th October 2010, 01:41 PM
I've been offered a cheap range rover.
2002 v8 mk2 ps80e?
Recently someone tried to jump start it and fried the electrics
Now won't even turn over.
Any ideas what the problem might be and likely cost to repair?
Rob king.
Rob, there is NO SUCH thing as a cheap 2002 Rangie. Not now, Not ever. It will cost you in the long term if the electrics are at fault, as this is the very basis for most of the vehicles complete operating system. Think of it as buying a laptop with a compromised hard drive. You just don't know when it will pack it in an loose 3 days or more of notes and information, irretrievably:mad:
Keep looking.
JC
Rob king
9th October 2010, 02:36 PM
Thanks for that:(
Haven't they heard of a surge protector:mad:
For this forseeable situation.
Rob.
jazzaD1
9th October 2010, 03:44 PM
how cheap are we talking? anything can be fixed
Rob king
9th October 2010, 03:52 PM
Jazza
Asking 3k, reckon they'll take 2 in the circumstances.
in good condition, straight, serviced etc, leather all OK.
Rob.
muddy
9th October 2010, 04:19 PM
hi Rob
When you say fried is it the wiring loom as well as the electronics or only the electronics
was it a straight jump start pos to pos and neg to neg or they reversed polarity (big problems)
if it was pos to pos my advice is to find out what the cost of the various electronic components are and add that to the asking price
Ps I am at down the hill in the 'gong
maurice
justinc
9th October 2010, 06:21 PM
Of course it can be fixed, BUT if the BECM has suffered then that, as a used unit, is over $1500 on its own. ( new $3000) Plus the possible issues with HEVAC and trans/ engine management bla bla bla. Unless you can get a 100% guarantee that $X will repair the vehicle reliably, then my advice is don't go there.
I have handed out too many big invoices to repair these vehicles to say anything but the above.
JC
rovercare
9th October 2010, 06:28 PM
$2k....I'd buy it:angel:
Not to say you should though:angel:
justinc
9th October 2010, 06:31 PM
$2k....I'd buy it:angel:
Not to say you should though:angel:
...YOU would:p.
I'd only buy it for a wrecker, but then probably has slipped liners anyway. Maybe thats why it won't rotate??:twisted:
JC
Blknight.aus
9th October 2010, 07:17 PM
check the main earths and the earth lead on the battery.
I have seen a bad hookup blow out what was left of the crappy connection giving the indication of all things bad but $10 worth of parts and an hours worth of diagnostics/work sorted it.
Id be very warey of purchasing it if I wasnt going to wreck it out for parts.
try this
disconnect the main battery, insulate the terminals then connect a good set of jumper leads (and I mean the kind you could use to jump start a planet not your average kmart or supercheap set) from an old school vehicle directly to the battery leads then bridge out the starter. If that gets it cranking your in with a chance on the mechanical side and the next step is to check all the relays and fuses.
justinc
9th October 2010, 07:23 PM
check the main earths and the earth lead on the battery.
I have seen a bad hookup blow out what was left of the crappy connection giving the indication of all things bad but $10 worth of parts and an hours worth of diagnostics/work sorted it.
Id be very warey of purchasing it if I wasnt going to wreck it out for parts.
try this
disconnect the main battery, insulate the terminals then connect a good set of jumper leads (and I mean the kind you could use to jump start a planet not your average kmart or supercheap set) from an old school vehicle directly to the battery leads then bridge out the starter. If that gets it cranking your in with a chance on the mechanical side and the next step is to check all the relays and fuses.
Definately worth a try Dave, but don't forget the words 'Voltage Spike', and 'Integrated Circuit' combined with BECM and several other critical and major systems in the P38:mad:. These vehicles were AHEAD of their time, back when it WAS their time:(.
I am merely saying that be VERY careful purchasing a faulty P38a. It is not always as simple and easy to fix as you may think :(.
JC
Blknight.aus
9th October 2010, 07:47 PM
I agree, but those modules could be had from another statutory write off type of vehicle purchased at auction fairly cheaply. (if you really wanted to get it going again)
the jump start thing was merely intended to provide a method of being able to check that the donk wasnt siezed and hadnt blown head gaskets.
justinc
9th October 2010, 07:59 PM
Bloody P38a electronics. Had one recently that was repaired (poorly) after a big A pillar side hit. The ongoing saga of leaking and noisy drivers door seal, poor panel alignment, intermittent battery drain, mirror operation, ABS faults, door lock issues etc etc caused it to eventually be written off (Shouldn't have been repaired in the first place, IMHO) and the insurance Co losing big $$$.
I can't believe they kept persuing the repairs...It eventually sold at auction for less than 2K, going, but with expensive electrical faults. The owners just wanted a reliable and neat vehicle back again after an accident that just wasn't their fault.
A bargain if someone wanted a good engine (Only 4l though) but I didn't even want it for 1K.
JC
Blknight.aus
9th October 2010, 09:02 PM
have you had the tech screw through the harness fault yet?
justinc
9th October 2010, 09:07 PM
have you had the tech screw through the harness fault yet?
:D:D No, but I recall you may have mentioned that before so I haven't discounted that possibilty when I am looking at faults on repaired/ modded vehicles:D
JC
Rob king
11th October 2010, 11:19 AM
Thanks JC and Dave.
All good advice.
I will try the jump start later today weather permitting.
Assume my SIII is 'old school' enough, and I cant do any more damage?
(Funny you mentioned the earth Dave. I have a statesman that just got fixed.
All the warning lights and alarms comming on, then always the trac control ABS lights etc...
Was told by 'reliable' auto electrician that the abs / traction control module packed it in and will cost buckets for replacement.
Then my mechanic, said, yeah seen this alot on new statesmans, the earth is a dodgey arrangement...30 bucks later new terminals and new earth connection all good! Cancelled auto elect booking:D)
I know the vehicle, friends / clients of mine had it for years, prob since new. It was always serviced (trivett I think) and has no engine or head gasket issues. (Same people have a current vogue and a new sport)
I dont really need any more hassles though, enough work to do on my SIII as it is! So I'll be a bit cautious.
Aparently the owners spoke with the service dept - anything up to 12k to fix was the advice!!
For a smart car, they really arent too clever by not installing a simple and cheap surge protector or fusable link to stop that happening. Its not like jump starting is an uncommon occurance.....
Thanks again... Rob.
Scouse
11th October 2010, 12:02 PM
I know the vehicle, friends / clients of mine had it for years, prob since new. It was always serviced (trivett I think) and has no engine or head gasket issues. (Same people have a current vogue and a new sport)
Ahh, it'll be a great car then. Nothing to worry about, just go & buy then enjoy :).
Rob king
11th October 2010, 12:06 PM
Not that your biased in any way scott?
nothing to discose either;)
Rob king
11th October 2010, 01:02 PM
OK.....
Story continues.
Yes it's a P38A S.
It now seems the jump start was pos-neg.
Fuses and relays already checked.
Trivett and alto qouted 15-21K
Does that mean it's really stuffed?:(
(Perhaps I should take some of that back about surge protectors - cant protect from stupidity:mad:)
Rob.
Scouse
11th October 2010, 01:07 PM
Trivett and alto qouted 15-21K
Does that mean it's really stuffed?:(
They're saying "We'd rather not have the job".
Rob king
11th October 2010, 01:17 PM
Hearing you Scott.
Still sounds like a huge job and a some scrounging around to make it viable.
Would need to find a wreck and then lots of room and time to swap it all over.
Might give it a miss, since I time and room are at a premium already.
Pity.
Thanks for the input.
Rob.
Scouse
11th October 2010, 01:49 PM
+ it's also just the absolute base model with cloth manual seats & the Eurovox radio. It's just a parts car & probably worth $500-$1000 IMO.
Even as a parts car, it's not the first pick anyway as the driveline is different from the HSE spec cars (engine, gearbox, rear diff).
Rob king
11th October 2010, 02:41 PM
No has beige leather in good condition.
But has 4.0 engine so not HSE.
Is there something else it could be?
SE?
Rob.
Scouse
11th October 2010, 03:51 PM
I thought you said it was an 'S' :confused:.
It must be an SE then :).
My drivetrain remarks still apply though ;).
Rob king
12th October 2010, 11:10 AM
sorry mate,
I'm not sure what I'm looking at.
The rear just says Range Rover 4.0
There is no other badge.
I think with the leather and woodgrain etc it must be an SE.
I could only find info for the S and Vogue so assumed is was an S because of the engine size.
I'm going to give it a miss anyway, seems too big $$ a job for me, I already have one never ending project.
Thanks everyone for the advice.
regards,
Rob King.
p38arover
12th October 2010, 12:51 PM
2002 v8 mk2 ps80e?
What is a ps80e RR?
Rob king
12th October 2010, 01:09 PM
Sorry p38arover
That was what I was given.
Turns out to be a 2002 mk2 p38a SE
Jump started in reverse polarity.
Basically stuffed.
Rob.
Blknight.aus
12th October 2010, 05:43 PM
unless you're willing to frell your head with electronics or strip it for its mech parts I suggest leaving it alone.
If your going to fix it replace EVERY electronic component prior to hooking up the battery, I have previously seen modules taking each other out at great expense.
eg
fault finding indicated that module 1 was knackered and had to be replaced to conduct further fault finding. module one was replaced only to find that module 2 was faulty. replacing module 2 found that the correct voltages were not coming from module 1 (12v on a 5v rail) replaced module 1 only to find that module 2 was now cactus and now had killed the new module one as it was now putting out 12v on the 5v rail again...
great fun. from memory more than $200 per module per time.
Rob king
13th October 2010, 09:00 AM
If your going to fix it replace EVERY electronic component prior to hooking up the battery, I have previously seen modules taking each other out at great expense.
Thanks Blknight,
How many modules are we talking?
I see two under the passenger seat, trans control etc, from posts below there is the HIVAC, BECM etc...
How long is the list of components that can blow up?
I gather too the diagnostic equipment is not going to be found in your average service centre?
Rob.
Blknight.aus
13th October 2010, 12:07 PM
tag line says mechanic not electrician.
lets see
ECU, TRans ECU (if auto), Security module, TC/ABS, Suspension control if airbagged , BEM, Audio Unit if it ties into the harness or has camera capability, Airbag gear (no idea how much is in that subsystem)
but thats guessing.
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.4 Copyright © 2026 vBulletin Solutions, Inc. All rights reserved.