Maxidrive axles

[portafilter]

Hi all Ive just had the truck into land rover in port Melbourne for a clunk and a whine. Turns out the whine is no biggie but the clunk is rear half shafts and flanges being flogged out. The guys in the garage suggested they replace them with maxi drives instead of genuine as in his opinion they are a lot better. They quoted About $1600 which seems like a lot. Any how I'm thinking I can do something like this myself but I cant find anyone who sells them.
Any one on this forum I can talk to to buy them and maybe get a bit of advice. I have a 2007 puma.
Thanks.

[OLR-067]

Hi,

Give MR a call ask...there are other suppliers as well....easier enough job to do yourself.

mrautomotive - Home (http://www.mrautomotive.com.au/)

cheers
paul

[frantic]

The axles and flanges are made by:
Hi-Tough Engineering Pty Ltd

Address: U3/7 Ryecroft St, Carrara, QLD, 4211

Phone number: (07) 55304123

Barry took over manufacture after maxi shut down (owner retired)

Otherwise call MR auto in brissy.

[Xtreme]

First Puma I've heard of with "rear half shafts and flanges being flogged out", although not unexpected.

What sort of mileage have you done?

[justinc]

$1600???????????



I wish I could charge that to fit Maxis.


About $990 for both axles and flanges, plus about $200 to fully service the wheel brgs and convert to oil lube including seals etc etc.

Thats on the Upper end as they won't be paying the degree of freight that I have to down here:mad:

Get another quote, try Les Richmond Automotive in Thomastown, 94644094

JC

[justinc]

Hi all Ive just had the truck into land rover in port Melbourne for a clunk and a whine. Turns out the whine is no biggie but the clunk is rear half shafts and flanges being flogged out. The guys in the garage suggested they replace them with maxi drives instead of genuine as in his opinion they are a lot better. They quoted About $1600 which seems like a lot. Any how I'm thinking I can do something like this myself but I cant find anyone who sells them.
Any one on this forum I can talk to to buy them and maybe get a bit of advice. I have a 2007 puma.
Thanks.

The reason they have 'flogged out' is because they have never seen any lube. If they were greased at 10,000km intervals, then they would still be OK. The Maxidrive axles will flog out too if they aren't converted to run the hubs in oil. I even fit standard axles converted to oil lube and will guarantee they won't wear out easily during normal use, Early 110's with oil filled hubs would see 250K easily. Maxi axles are made of higher quality material, and have more shaft/spline contact but without oil lube they wouldn't last a great deal longer.


JC

[portafilter]

The truck has done almost 120k. I've only put about 4k on it so far. I haven't looked myself yet. But there is oil in the dust cap and there is freeplay between the flange and axle. According to mechanic.

[portafilter]

The reason they have 'flogged out' is because they have never seen any lube. If they were greased at 10,000km intervals, then they would still be OK. The Maxidrive axles will flog out too if they aren't converted to run the hubs in oil. I even fit standard axles converted to oil lube and will guarantee they won't wear out easily during normal use, Early 110's with oil filled hubs would see 250K easily. Maxi axles are made of higher quality material, and have more shaft/spline contact but without oil lube they wouldn't last a great deal longer.


JC

Thanks for the great explanation! That makes perfect sense! Anyone know if it's been documented on this site how to do it? Or should I just find someone local who can do it?? I'm in Melbourne.

[steveG]

I just had a price of around $900 for Hi-Tough rear axles and flanges for my County. I'm not familiar with the later Defenders, but cant see that they would be twice that price.
In Melbourne I think Ritters sell Hi-Tough.

Steve

[justinc]

The truck has done almost 120k. I've only put about 4k on it so far. I haven't looked myself yet. But there is oil in the dust cap and there is freeplay between the flange and axle. According to mechanic.

At 120k, I'd also be looking carefully at the front flanges, and the A frame balljoint. I have seen a 65K '08 that has ruined both flanges and axles due to no lube. You also mentioned a whine? This can be attributed to transfer case intermediate shaft endfloat, which will also cause clunk/ backlash.

Again, I maintain that regularly checked etc, there is no reason they won't see high KM. I would be going to ring Andrew at LRA on the previously mentioned number and get his angle on the situation. It's a bit difficult to do this online:)

JC

[steveG]

Thanks for the great explanation! That makes perfect sense! Anyone know if it's been documented on this site how to do it? Or should I just find someone local who can do it?? I'm in Melbourne.

Converting to oil lubed hubs has definitely been documented - pretty sure its in "The Good Oil" as well.

Steve

[Xtreme]

Here's a good place to start your education on wheel bearings, lubrication etc.
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/good-oil/55513-wheel-bearings-swivels-oil-fed-double-lip-seals-packing-slotting-rest.html

[portafilter]

so i had a look at four corners of the beast today.
Definitely some play between the flange and the half shaft splines, +/- app 0.5mm. both sides on the back, but i couldnt get the front to move, guess they may have already been done. Maxidrives here i come.
also found a slight leak in the power steering piston cap on the steering box. nothing a bottle of lucas wont fix, i hope.