Brake line schematics

[rovercare]

Well, I'm onto brake lines on my 120 now, what I have is a late defender master and boost to suit disc brakes, which has 3 holes, the old banger only had 2, what I'm hoping is someone can draw the diagram out or preferably pictures of the line layout on a disc braked defender, it would be much appreciated:)

[rick130]

Just took some pics and resizing ATM so will upload in a few minutes.

I'm going the other way, using a VH334 booster from an F250 (same booster as used on the 6x6) and a P10316 PBR M/C

The OE late model booster has a reputation for cracking and can't be re-built.

[roverrescue]

Matt,
just about to go play footy, but can sort something afterwards...

will the laout from a '95 130 defender with new booster and master be good enough?
Cant remeber off hand if the master has three outlets or two - will get back to you unless someone beats me too it!


Steve

[rovercare]

Just took some pics and resizing ATM so will upload in a few minutes.

I'm going the other way, using a VH334 booster from an F250 (same booster as used on the 6x6) and a P10316 PBR M/C

The OE late model booster has a reputation of cracking and can't be re-built.

Thanks Rick, I read about that, seems a good idea, but I'd already bought these new, so will do for now, aftermarket stuff is always questionable, so when you have a write up of your swap, it'll be an easy change for me:)

[rovercare]

Matt,
just about to go play footy, but can sort something afterwards...

will the laout from a '95 130 defender with new booster and master be good enough?
Cant remeber off hand if the master has three outlets or two - will get back to you unless someone beats me too it!


Steve

See how Rick goes Steve, but that's just what I'm after, Ta muchly though:)

[roverrescue]

Just had a quick squiz.
it is a three port MC

rear most port on underside of MC is for rear circuit.
front two ports front circuit: uppermost to left caliper, lowermost to right caliper.

I see Rick is gonna get you some purdy pickchas...

S

[roverrescue]

But anyway, why does a bd1 need brakes anyway, dont you just pop the clutch in 1st to slow to a crawl?

Like the look of the ute - youve done good.

S

[rovercare]

But anyway, why does a bd1 need brakes anyway, dont you just pop the clutch in 1st to slow to a crawl?

Like the look of the ute - youve done good.

S

They actually suck at enginebraking in comparison to equivelant capacity diesels, but I'd say that's more to do with direct injection and 17:1 compression ratio..........which just so happens to be exceleent for boost:D

[rick130]

They actually suck at enginebraking in comparison to equivelant capacity diesels, but I'd say that's more to do with direct injection and 17:1 compression ratio..........which just so happens to be exceleent for boost:D

It's gotta be better than a 300Tdi....

Anyway, these two piccies should help, you can see where the lines go on the M/C as Steve said.

http://img146.imageshack.us/img146/9611/brakemcimg0138.jpg (http://img146.imageshack.us/i/brakemcimg0138.jpg/)


RH front and rear lines go down, LH front back up and across the firewall here.

http://img508.imageshack.us/img508/5232/brakemcimg0139.jpg (http://img508.imageshack.us/i/brakemcimg0139.jpg/)


(http://img146.imageshack.us/i/brakemcimg0139.jpg/)

[rick130]

Double post
(http://img146.imageshack.us/i/brakemcimg0139.jpg/)

[rovercare]

Thanks Rick, just what I was after, so no biasy valve in the cct at all?

[rick130]

No, or at least not on the 130, although there's one shown in the service manual.

Apparently the M/C is a 25.4mm/1" bore just like the Oz spec PBR ones off the 110/120 too.

[roverrescue]

Matt,
just thinking - which is dangerous I know.
It may be easier/ neater to buy the front left and right hard lines from MC to wheel arch.

They will bolt straight in without mucking around bending bundy all over the engine bay.

The rear line is easy enough but the fronts are a little funky and will be same for any later model tdi fender of any wheel base? Even some hard lines from a wrecker would do the job - not too much to go wrong with hard drawn tube?

Steve

[rovercare]

Matt,
just thinking - which is dangerous I know.
It may be easier/ neater to buy the front left and right hard lines from MC to wheel arch.

They will bolt straight in without mucking around bending bundy all over the engine bay.

The rear line is easy enough but the fronts are a little funky and will be same for any later model tdi fender of any wheel base? Even some hard lines from a wrecker would do the job - not too much to go wrong with hard drawn tube?

Steve

Very true Steve, trying to find someone with a wrecked fender is the prob:(

I think I'll just run all new, only bundy tube, enough P clamps and it'll look like I did a good job:D

[rick130]

Good suggestion Steve.

I was originally going to try and mate the Lucas MC to the PBR booster I have but I'd have to undo the booster and clock it to suit.

Just as easy in my case to bend up some bundy, although the only bender i have small enough to do it is aluminium.

[roverrescue]

Rick if you have a mate who is a fridgey they will have the gear to loan?

Matt, you can see in Ricks second picture where the left side tube bends back up to go across the firewall to get to the left side chassis rail. Seems a logical way to get from MC across with only 90 degree bends. Maybe Rick can take some more purdy pickchas to help with the runs?

If you are going with bundy - Ive always preferred the way tojo front lines run small flex lines from chassis housing across to caliper, rather than a long exposed hanger from wheel arch to caliper. You could either have double flex lines to the diff and across or follow the diff breather line along the radius arm? The more I think about it the more it seems easier just to follow OEM...

S

[rick130]

Rick if you have a mate who is a fridgey they will have the gear to loan?

[snip]
S

I know one bloke really well but he's a bit of an A hole, and thinks he's pretty flash at running pipe too, :rolleyes: but getting him to do it is another story :angel:

:D

The benders from 3/8" up are all steel but the small 3/16", 1/4" I have is aluminium but should be Ok for steel bundy tube.

[abaddonxi]

Last time I did the brake lines on the 130 the bender I had was too wide for the close bends. Ended up doing it by hand. Only messed up a couple.

[roverrescue]

When I did the hydraulic lines for brakes on the big trailer (9m boat - triple axle - 6 calipers) I used some flash tube from the brake place. Not standard hard steel bundy, much softer but still all ADR blahblahblah. Seemed to be a copper type alloy, was claimed to much more rust resistant which is good on a vehicle that gets drowned in saltwater as its MO. Not too evil a price for a 20m roll? Either way, it very easy to bend (softer) and aluminium formers would be fine for it?

Can see if it has any markings on it for ID?

Steve

[roverrescue]

For what its worth - a week later !!!

That hard pipe that is not steel bundy.
Has been great in the boat trailer application - been two and a bit years now and no rust on the pipe or brass fittings I used. Unlike the old steel bundy I removed - which was near rusted through.

PBR T709-C
4.76mm x 0.71mm x 7620mm
COPPER/NIC

So Im guessing it was 7.6m of copper nickel alloy tube.

Anyways
S