Bundalene's Puma project [Archive] - Australian Land Rover Owners

Bundalene

20th October 2010, 08:12 PM

Well here we go again ........:):D:)

I need another project.

Today we bought an almost new Puma. I would say it travelled from the dealer, to the ARB shop and then had a prang. :(

Did this vehicle belong to someone on the Forum????

First registered in Late June 2010, paint code 907, trim T (what ever that means? :confused: )

Here are some pics.

The vehicle had a hard front left side hit and twisted the chassis.

http://img109.imageshack.us/img109/3416/dscn9655i.jpg (http://img109.imageshack.us/i/dscn9655i.jpg/)

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/8353/dscn9658.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dscn9658.jpg/)

This is a 7 seater, all leather seats in excellent condition. I doubt the rear or 3rd row seats have ever been used.

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/6002/dscn9661.jpg (http://img530.imageshack.us/i/dscn9661.jpg/)

http://img251.imageshack.us/img251/2327/dscn9667.jpg (http://img251.imageshack.us/i/dscn9667.jpg/)

We put the Puma on the hoist and all seems OK. We started to remove a few bits.

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/8461/dscn9675.jpg (http://img804.imageshack.us/i/dscn9675.jpg/)

This project will not have the same urgency as the previous build 12 months ago, but we will add updates.

The plan is to remove the damaged front end, then lift off the entire shell, remove the engine, gearbox and all off the chassis. Take the chassis to have it straightened and then rebuild the vehicle.

dmdigital

20th October 2010, 08:14 PM

Well the cat's out of the bag so to speak :D

Can't wait for the posts to come.

Erich watch the gearbox oil as it's not an off-the-shelf product. It is an available Caltex synthetic oil though.

Pedro_The_Swift

20th October 2010, 08:19 PM

Leather seats in a Defender:o:o?

next you'll be saying its got air-con and coils:p:p

Thats one huge rack though :eek:

2_door

20th October 2010, 09:31 PM

Thats one huge rack though :eek:

big rack, long legs, a touch of leather and all class,,,,this has the makings of a beautiful thread :D:D:D:D

Narangga

20th October 2010, 09:40 PM

Only 294 days til Garma Erich :angel:

sheerluck

20th October 2010, 09:50 PM

big rack, long legs, a touch of leather and all class,,,,this has the makings of a beautiful thread :D:D:D:D

AND you can get 7 inside all at once! Woohoo!

Ok, so I just brought the class level right down.....

Erich, as projects go, that's a biggie. I'm sure there'll be many following this thread with great interest.

gazk

21st October 2010, 10:01 AM

Good to see you keeping busy Erich. Maybe I'll need to increase my internet speed to download your progress photos on this project. I'll come and have a look next time I'm up your way.
Good luck with it.
cheers

cal415

21st October 2010, 01:13 PM

Very nice project, if you dont mind me asking whats something like this go for at auction? I wouldnt mind doing the same to get a puma interior(wife likes them) into an older 130 with 4bd1t

Basil135

21st October 2010, 01:31 PM

Nice project.

Just wish I had the space....

Bundalene

21st October 2010, 02:32 PM

Very nice project, if you dont mind me asking whats something like this go for at auction? I wouldnt mind doing the same to get a puma interior(wife likes them) into an older 130 with 4bd1t

PM sent.

Erich

Narangga

21st October 2010, 07:06 PM

Thats one huge rack though :eek:

Means you don't need to buy a sunvisor Pedro. :p

dullbird

21st October 2010, 07:27 PM

bugger and there I was thinking the potential to get my hands on another 2 boost alloys:D

Bundalene

21st October 2010, 07:58 PM

bugger and there I was thinking the potential to get my hands on another 2 boost alloys:D

You should look out for some late Series1 Disco Alloys, hard to tell the difference unless you look closely, OK for a spare etc

Erich

dullbird

21st October 2010, 08:07 PM

no they are not the same as disco alloys...I'm talking about the ones on the puma if you look they are very different..these ones are flatter

Narangga

21st October 2010, 08:18 PM

no they are not the same as disco alloys...I'm talking about the ones on the puma if you look they are very different..these ones are flatter

Most of the vehicles Erich buys are. :D

Bundalene

21st October 2010, 08:25 PM

I managed an hour this afternoon to work on the Puma so the front right guard came off.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/1205/dscn9709.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/i/dscn9709.jpg/)

I was very disappointed in the workmanship of the Safari Snorkel installation. The end at the air cleaner was sealed with a silicone type material as was the guard end. The joint in the middle was a loose fit and fell apart. This would have leaked for sure, As the pic below shows, the plastic from the inner section has partially collapsed in the center and would certainly breathe. I am sure the accident had no affect on this.

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/6924/dscn9707.jpg (http://img832.imageshack.us/i/dscn9707.jpg/)

I think such an installation is a criminal act !!! I have don't know who did this one. People put their trust in companies to do the right thing, and such an installation could easily result in a damaged engine, possibly in the middle of nowhere.

This may be a warning to other PUMA owners or anyone having a snorkel installed .

Erich

dmdigital

21st October 2010, 08:52 PM

Another point to note Erich, the front springs aren't handed like the previous Defenders. They are both the same as the passenger side front spring on a Tdi.

Ean Austral

21st October 2010, 08:59 PM

Looks like you have some work ahead of you Erich..Will follow this with interest...

Best of luck.

Cheers Ean

Bundalene

21st October 2010, 09:17 PM

no they are not the same as disco alloys...I'm talking about the ones on the puma if you look they are very different..these ones are flatter

Hi Lou, I agree they are different, but unless they are side by side most people wouldn't know. I have a set of Boost Alloys with city tyres and 1999 Series1 Disco Alloys with the muddies as per pic below. This is a comparison between the Boosts on the PUMA and the Series1 Disco wheels on the Defender, at a bit of a distance.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/6628/dscn9652s.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/dscn9652s.jpg/)

All I am saying is that these are far more readily available, much cheaper and most people wouldn't know anyhow.

Erich

andrew e

21st October 2010, 10:09 PM

Bundalene

22nd October 2010, 06:03 PM

I managed to get onto a local panel beater who came around this morning to look at the work required on the chassis. He seemed to think it would be a relatively easy fix. He has all the stretching gear.

He has a largish project coming up but hopes to fit it the chassis repair in in about a week. I have a doner front end of a 130 chassis for a sample as well as fabricated bits.

I got to do a bit on the PUMA this afternoon. First priority was to remove the passenger guard and then run the engine. This took about an hour.

the engine started first turn of the key, it sounds so sweet, very quiet compared to the TD5 IMHO

http://img153.imageshack.us/img153/6048/dscn9723.jpg (http://img153.imageshack.us/i/dscn9723.jpg/)

I spent the next 2 hours marking plugs, hoses, taking pics of bits to be connected and also removed the radiator / intercooler etc.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/678/dscn9745n.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/dscn9745n.jpg/)

I would hate to remove a radiator with this hose clamp in this positioning. It was difficult to remove without guards.

http://img189.imageshack.us/img189/8462/dscn9743j.jpg (http://img189.imageshack.us/i/dscn9743j.jpg/)

I also found why the power steering was out of fluid. The suction line from the pump to the fill bottle was squashed and leaked. The radiator and intercooler are intact and the condensor needs straightening as it is a bit twisted.

Next job - remove all cables from the engine going through the firewall.

Erich

Bundalene

23rd October 2010, 08:05 PM

Andrew came up and gave a hand

We removed heaps off the firewall, undid a few bolts and then lifted the body off the chassis, using the hoist.

http://img44.imageshack.us/img44/1388/dscn9747t.jpg (http://img44.imageshack.us/i/dscn9747t.jpg/)

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/5687/dscn9750b.jpg (http://img204.imageshack.us/i/dscn9750b.jpg/)

We then rolled the chassis into the shed as the weather turned nasty with wind and rain.

http://img46.imageshack.us/img46/193/dscn9754q.jpg (http://img46.imageshack.us/i/dscn9754q.jpg/)

Next step was to remove the engine / gearbox in one piece. I have an overhead lifting beam at the front end of the shed and we chain blocked off this, with a come-a-long as a cross support and a ratchet strap to stop twisting. We used the lifting eye at the front of the engine and a strap around the gearbox

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/4326/dscn9767.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/dscn9767.jpg/)

http://img101.imageshack.us/img101/9519/dscn9765z.jpg (http://img101.imageshack.us/i/dscn9765z.jpg/)

Next step was to strip the front of the chassis ready for straightening. We left as much on each assembly to make the rebuild easier.

http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8808/dscn9768n.jpg (http://img25.imageshack.us/i/dscn9768n.jpg/)

A lot of room is needed for such a project.

http://img685.imageshack.us/img685/3391/dscn9773a.jpg (http://img685.imageshack.us/i/dscn9773a.jpg/)

Finally we lowered the body down close to the ground for safety. To remove the chassis I will lift the body up again and roll it out. The engine stays suspended until it goes back onto the chassis.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/1871/dscn9774.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/dscn9774.jpg/)

Next job to order bits needed. The chassis won't go for straightening for a week or more.

Erich

Narangga

23rd October 2010, 08:51 PM

Thanks for the update Erich.

All I did today was change the centre console. :(

grover7488

23rd October 2010, 09:09 PM

All I did today was change the centre console. :(

all i did was go out for lunch. To the inlaws :o All day :(

Looks like a great project Erich. Envoy all the space you have ;) I have to change tyres out in the street :eek:

dmdigital

23rd October 2010, 09:13 PM

Ean Austral

23rd October 2010, 09:18 PM

Wow :o and all I did was Sleep today..:p

will admire your progress while im working tonight tho..

Its powering on, that front certainly looks as tho it took a good whack.

Cheers Ean

Bundalene

23rd October 2010, 10:15 PM

Erich are they stainless or alloy billet door hinges or is it just the light in the picture making them look very shiny???

And all I did was clean the Puma's dash and mow the lawn... and sweat a lot :(

Well spotted. That is a brand new door plated hinge to temporarily replace the damaged hinge which was on this door.

We thought it a good idea to have all doors closed when lifting the body, to make it a bit more structurally rigid. That's why we left the roof rack on as well, even with the additional weight.

Erich

87County

23rd October 2010, 10:50 PM

Erich - I'm enjoying this but don't you ever sleep ? :)

Questions that come to mind are -

when you lift the body of a a whole in that way, do you remove the steering column first ? .... or do you disconnect at the steering box ?

dmdigital

24th October 2010, 06:27 AM

Well spotted. That is a brand new door plated hinge to temporarily replace the damaged hinge which was on this door.

We thought it a good idea to have all doors closed when lifting the body, to make it a bit more structurally rigid. That's why we left the roof rack on as well, even with the additional weight.

Erich
Ah that explains it. Thought, with the leather seats and all, it may have had stainless hinges or some such.

That chassis sure took a good whack at the front :eek:

Also it's interesting to note that the new ARB bar mounts are not inline with the chassis using the original holes but rather use a plate to offset to the left and right. Makes me thing it might be made to fit something else as well.

Bundalene

24th October 2010, 06:58 AM

This stage was relatively simple, one step at a time. I started around 7.30 am, Andrew got here at around 8.30-9 am and all was done before 5.00pm.

A point to remember is that we are fortunate with this being a brand new car and every bolt is nice and shining, no corrosion, rust, and only a little surface dirt to worry about.

Hi 87County, the steering link between the end of the column and the steering box has to be removed. There are 3 bolts securing this and once these are removed, it is possible to slide the joint far enough up the steering column to remove the knuckle off the steering box.

http://img818.imageshack.us/img818/2158/dscn9787.jpg (http://img818.imageshack.us/i/dscn9787.jpg/)

Removing the body in this way is the same as when the vehicle is originally built, in 2 separate lines, one with the chassis assembly merging with the body assembly.

The biggest PITA was removing the 3 plugs and especially the 2 loom fasteners, on top of the transfer, which were in the same loom as the loom going to the controls under the drivers seat. These should be in their own loom and be separately plugged IMHO.

Erich

Narangga

24th October 2010, 01:29 PM

Also it's interesting to note that the new ARB bar mounts are not inline with the chassis using the original holes but rather use a plate to offset to the left and right. Makes me thing it might be made to fit something else as well.

May only have one bar for the Defenders and then use a variety of fitting kits would be my guess.

sheerluck

24th October 2010, 02:53 PM

This project will not have the same urgency as the previous build 12 months ago, but we will add updates..

Erich,

I'm liking your idea of "not the same urgency". 4 days on from your first posting and the Puma is already stripped and sitting in half a dozen boxes. :eek:

I think it took me about the same length of time to get the viscous fan off my Disco!

Bundalene

24th October 2010, 05:03 PM

Erich,

I'm liking your idea of "not the same urgency". 4 days on from your first posting and the Puma is already stripped and sitting in half a dozen boxes. :eek:

I think it took me about the same length of time to get the viscous fan off my Disco!

Hi, I don't know if you read about our restoration 12 months ago ...... We were racing the NT wet season.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/88257-bundalenes-daughters-130-repair-job.html

We are actually taking it easy. To-day was a rest day. I wanted to be ready for the chassis repairer, just in case he could do the repairs earlier.

Erich

The ho har's

24th October 2010, 05:34 PM

Yet another Eric......we are juggling 2 builds ATM....and our chassis is bent also so we found out:(....you keep up the good work:D:D

Mrs hh:angel:

87County

24th October 2010, 05:53 PM

Yet another Eric......we are juggling 2 builds ATM....and our chassis is bent also so we found out:(....you keep up the good work:D:D

Mrs hh:angel:

Hi Mrs HH

are yours the subject of write-ups (descriptions) in other threads ?

We have a couple of projects on the go ourselves so we're out to learn all we can.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-technical/115046-new-us-2a-gs.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/111429-different-4bd1t-lt85-120-extracab-project.html

thanks - Laurie

The ho har's

24th October 2010, 06:46 PM

Hi Mrs HH

are yours the subject of write-ups (descriptions) in other threads ?

We have a couple of projects on the go ourselves so we're out to learn all we can.

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-technical/115046-new-us-2a-gs.html
http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/111429-different-4bd1t-lt85-120-extracab-project.html

thanks - Laurie

the oldest thread

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/61226-ho-hars-camper-build.html?highlight=camper+build

and all in between

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/87419-zara-88-s3s-transformation.html?highlight=zara

these are current

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/remlr-projects/105160-mrs-hhs-bessie-112-290-will-alive-last.html?highlight=bessie

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/112803-ho-hars-car-trailer-build.html?highlight=bessie

as you can see we do lots:o:D

Oh and we are doing an ex-mil wrecker soon;)

Mrs hh:angel:

Bundalene

24th October 2010, 07:02 PM

Lucky you have a few acres as well Mrs HH:D:D

The ho har's

24th October 2010, 07:16 PM

Lucky you have a few acres as well Mrs HH:D:D

Sorrry for the hi-jack:)

Mrs hh:angel:

Bundalene

24th October 2010, 07:59 PM

Just a thought ......

If anyone with a PUMA or intending to buy a PUMA wants a look at this project - have a good look at the complete engine - what the chassis and hidden components look like, how to get at bits etc etc please PM us.

Anyone is welcome say in the next 2 weeks, depending when the chassis goes to the repairer.

Once we get the chassis back, we will paint it fully with POR15 or similar, followed by a coat of sound deadener and cavity wax inside the chassis. This will take some time as well.

Erich

87County

24th October 2010, 08:09 PM

Sorrry for the hi-jack:)

Mrs hh

yeah - apologies from me too - but I learned more as well :)

thnx mrs hh :)

chuck

24th October 2010, 08:54 PM

Eric

what are you planning to do with it/

Regards

Chuck

Bundalene

24th October 2010, 09:10 PM

We have 2 registered cars presently, a 2006 Defender with 65,000kms and a 1999 D2 with 270,000kms. I was originally planning to buy a D3 and replace the D2 and then this came along.

The plan at this stage is to keep the PUMA as a town car and build it up with the usual items for touring as in fuel and water tanks, batteries and a few other things I have in mind.

Before we go away with a new vehicle I will want to become farmiliar with it, including the purchase of some sort of diagnostic, workshop manuals etc, sort the diffs, turbo hoses, ..... This engine and gearbox is something quite new for myself.

Erich

Bundalene

25th October 2010, 08:28 PM

PUMA observations: I am very impressed with the build and assembly of this vehicle.

I have at least 1 week to kill before the chassis is looked at by the repairer, so between now and then there is time to reflect on an engine / gearbox hanging on a chain block, a rolling chassis and a body shell.

On a good note, the starter motor seems easy to remove - easier than the TD5 at least, except maybe for about 59 hoses in front of it.

It appears to be removed from the side by several bolts, quite easy (I haven't removed it)

http://img193.imageshack.us/img193/6707/dscn9983a.jpg (http://img193.imageshack.us/i/dscn9983a.jpg/)

On the above pic one can see a bracked attached to the removable cross member. Does anyone know what the purpose of this bracket is?

This pic from back a bit shows the hoses, you can't actually see the starter motor.

http://img267.imageshack.us/img267/2995/dscn9760b.jpg (http://img267.imageshack.us/i/dscn9760b.jpg/)

On a poor note, the position of the exhaust in relation to the front UNI. How does one ever remove this Uni. Maybe there is an easier way than removing the tailshaft without firstly removing the body shell ;);)

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7951/dscn9762.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/i/dscn9762.jpg/)

and then there is the crank angle sensor heat cover. We removed this in 2 seconds and took 10 minutes to put it back, and that is with no obstacles such as firewalls to deal with. I think I now know how the cover physically goes back on

http://img169.imageshack.us/img169/3537/dscn9969.jpg (http://img169.imageshack.us/i/dscn9969.jpg/)

I have heaps more to comment on, such as a plastic turbo inlet?

Erich

andrew e

25th October 2010, 08:56 PM

I have heaps more to comment on, such as a plastic turbo inlet?

Erich

and the rusty engine block?? FFS this car is only 3 months old.

The thing i found interesting today was the rear half of the exhaust is the same as the td5, however the front half is unique , and 5mm smaller than the rear half.

Oh, and did anyone know that puma's have an in-built Hyclone in the air cleaner inlet?

Andy

dickyjoe

29th October 2010, 03:10 PM

Interesting project and I like the use of the hoist. Do you reckon the newer Defenders have a smaller guage steel in the chassis and the side impact maybe wasn't that hard? Its just the body looks not too bad considering?

Rich

Bundalene

29th October 2010, 09:00 PM

Hi Rich,

if anything there appear to be more strengthening ribs and gussets than the earlier TD1 chassis.

I have had it confirmed the chassis goes in for straughtening early next week - Monday or Tuesday. I can't wait. There is a lot to do but I am a bit reluctant until the chassis is back.

Erich

It'sNotWorthComplaining!

29th October 2010, 10:31 PM

Bundalene

31st October 2010, 01:30 PM

and the rusty engine block?? FFS this car is only 3 months old.

The thing i found interesting today was the rear half of the exhaust is the same as the td5, however the front half is unique , and 5mm smaller than the rear half.

Oh, and did anyone know that puma's have an in-built Hyclone in the air cleaner inlet?

Andy

Some pics of the inside of the PUMA air cleaner box from the inlet end

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img841.imageshack.us/i/dscn0031tw.jpg/)

http://img258.imageshack.us/img258/5186/dscn0029c.jpg (http://img258.imageshack.us/i/dscn0029c.jpg/)

There seems to be a heck of a restriction. There is probably maddness in the method but the reason for the 'Hyclone device" beats me.

Erich

dmdigital

31st October 2010, 02:43 PM

No wonder I hadn't seen it before. Hadn't looked along that portion of the inlet.

It does appear to be a separately made piece so I assume it can be removed, but how easily would be the question.

Xtreme

31st October 2010, 02:44 PM

Some pics of the inside of the PUMA air cleaner box from the inlet end

There seems to be a heck of a restriction. There is probably maddness in the method but the reason for the 'Hyclone device" beats me.

Erich

Especially on the inlet end of the box.

Slunnie

31st October 2010, 03:53 PM

The TD5's have that in the airbox too. It spins the dirt out of the air, which then drops out through the duck bill.

dmdigital

31st October 2010, 04:17 PM

Slunnie, Erich's already stripped down a few Td5's and I don't believe he found this before. Was it something that went in late in the Td5 Defender and carried over to the Puma perhaps??

You're explanation is reasonable and may well explain why the air filter stays so clean.

Ean Austral

31st October 2010, 04:38 PM

I cant see how that can work very well, those blades look as tho they would be stationary, and the distance to the filter housing is not far..

I think that would be more of a restriction than anything else...

But I have been wrong before..

I will see if mine has 1 and might remove it to see if there's any noticeable difference..

Cheers Ean

Bundalene

31st October 2010, 05:07 PM

The TD5's have that in the airbox too. It spins the dirt out of the air, which then drops out through the duck bill.

You are right Simon, the TD5 Disco does have this and the V8 D2 doesn't. Also the TD5 Disco has a duck bill valve and the V8 Disco doesnt have one.

Does this mean that the V8 air filters get clogged more than the TD5?

Erich

Bundalene

31st October 2010, 05:11 PM

dmdigital

31st October 2010, 05:20 PM

So when you take it out Erich let me know how the engine performs without it.

isuzurover

1st November 2010, 01:16 AM

You are right Simon, the TD5 Disco does have this and the V8 D2 doesn't. Also the TD5 Disco has a duck bill valve and the V8 Disco doesnt have one.

Does this mean that the V8 air filters get clogged more than the TD5?

Erich

Diesel 4x4s often have a higher spec filter assembly than equivalent petrol models.

Given the age of Td5s/pumas, the intake should have been designed using CFD, so should be reasonably optimised.

Probably not a good idea to remove it if driving anywhere dusty.

Bundalene

1st November 2010, 06:16 AM

Diesel 4x4s often have a higher spec filter assembly than equivalent petrol models.

Given the age of Td5s/pumas, the intake should have been designed using CFD, so should be reasonably optimised.

Probably not a good idea to remove it if driving anywhere dusty.

CFD ?

Computational fluid dynamics

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) is one of the branches of fluid mechanics that uses numerical methods and algorithms to solve and analyze problems that involve fluid flows. Computers are used to perform the millions of calculations required to simulate the interaction of liquids and gases with surfaces defined by boundary conditions. Even with high-speed supercomputers only approximate solutions can be achieved in many cases. Ongoing research, however, may yield software that improves the accuracy and speed of complex simulation scenarios such as transonic or turbulent flows. Initial validation of such software is often performed using a wind tunnel with the final validation coming in flight tests.

Erich

stig0000

1st November 2010, 07:00 AM

im 99% sure that all deff td5s pumas have that in the air box,

also you say the starter is easy to get out,;);):mad: iv done about 6 starts on pumas and td5s are way way easyer,, like you say heaps of hoses and the body is very close to the stater, thank god for ratchet spanners,

spudfan

1st November 2010, 09:02 AM

Bundalene

1st November 2010, 10:58 AM

Given that the engine is out, this would be the ideal opportunity to give us a couple of shots of the EGR. Any other shots I have seen are taken from a downward angle through all the pipe work. A clear unobstructed shot from the side would give a better idea of the EGR area and make it a little easier to suss it out before I have to dismantle it. I know that you are busy with this project but it seemed too good an opportunity to pass up. Inspirational post to say the least - just might give the lawn mower an overhaul this Winter!

This first pic shows the whole set-up, quite a bit in it.

http://img808.imageshack.us/img808/8901/dscn0076.jpg (http://img808.imageshack.us/i/dscn0076.jpg/)

Now a few close-ups. In this pic you can just see a bit of the line running between the coolant hoses. I cant move these at this stage, but in a few days I hope to replace all coolant line clamps with stainless ones.

http://img535.imageshack.us/img535/457/dscn0071xb.jpg (http://img535.imageshack.us/i/dscn0071xb.jpg/)

This shot is a close-up in behind the yellow strap from the previous pic

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/1458/dscn0069v.jpg (http://img826.imageshack.us/i/dscn0069v.jpg/)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3280/dscn0075x.jpg (http://img442.imageshack.us/i/dscn0075x.jpg/)

Hope this helps - If you want any more or close-ups please ask

Erich

Redback

1st November 2010, 12:36 PM

Mmmmm time for a chin wag and a beer if you have time Erich, this weekend maybe??

Baz.

Bundalene

1st November 2010, 05:13 PM

I spent a few hours on the project today.

Firstly the firewall engine bay side was stripped, cleaned, roughened with wet & dry, painted with a rust inibitor - sealant and bits were replaced.

Left side stripped down and scuffed

http://img834.imageshack.us/img834/3136/dscn0063c.jpg (http://img834.imageshack.us/i/dscn0063c.jpg/)

Paint used, similar product to POR15 but cheaper and Australian made.

RustSeal by KBS Coatings - Better than POR-15 - Stop Rust with our Paint / Sealer (http://kbs-coatings.com.au/KBS-RustSeal-_p_10.html)

http://img826.imageshack.us/img826/4517/dscn0024b.jpg (http://img826.imageshack.us/i/dscn0024b.jpg/)

End result after the bits were re-installed. Very little of the firewall is visible after the car has been re-assembled.

http://img209.imageshack.us/img209/8876/dscn0082q.jpg (http://img209.imageshack.us/i/dscn0082q.jpg/)

Also, connected all four earth points on the firewall. I used 6 sq mm and high quality lugs. These will be connected back to the battery earth on the chassis adjacent to the battery box.

http://img810.imageshack.us/img810/9732/dscn0085i.jpg (http://img810.imageshack.us/i/dscn0085i.jpg/)

Erich

Hoges

1st November 2010, 05:38 PM

CFD ?

Computational fluid dynamics

From Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia

Computational fluid dynamics (CFD) is one of the branches of fluid mechanics that uses numerical methods and algorithms to solve and analyze problems that involve fluid flows. Computers are used to perform the millions of calculations required to simulate the interaction of liquids and gases with surfaces defined by boundary conditions. Even with high-speed supercomputers only approximate solutions can be achieved in many cases. Ongoing research, however, may yield software that improves the accuracy and speed of complex simulation scenarios such as transonic or turbulent flows. Initial validation of such software is often performed using a wind tunnel with the final validation coming in flight tests.

Erich

such calculations also came in handy when "they" were exploring the feasibility of replacing arteries with vein material for cardiac bypass operations 30 yrs ago ... sort of ironic isn't it :eek::D

Bundalene

1st November 2010, 06:09 PM

Has anyone modified the area of the Puma, around the air cleaner, for better access ro replace the filter. I was thinking of modifying the inner guard to drop the filter by 20-30mm. This will be suitably re-inforced and bracketed. I have the inner guard at the fibre-glass fellow for repairs currently.

Just for info, the inner guards look like a plastic material but are actually press molded fibreglass.

Erich

dmdigital

1st November 2010, 06:24 PM

Erich, just remember you will need to get the hose from the intercooler to the turbo down that side. It actually sits under (along) the bottom edge of the air filter box as the fan cowl protrudes to far across. I think if you remake the hose in metal piping you will be able to over come this.

isuzurover

1st November 2010, 06:42 PM

Great progress Erich! You may have mentioned, but what are the planes for this vehicle when you finish it?

Bundalene

2nd November 2010, 07:50 PM

Great progress Erich! You may have mentioned, but what are the planes for this vehicle when you finish it?

Currently we have 2 registered cars, a 1999 TD5 Disc and a 2006 Defender. The plan is to retire the Disco and replace it with the Puma.

Buying the Puma was a spur of the moment thing - I went to the auction with no real intention of buying it, until I sat in it, with the leather and all the extras. I bid on it and no one else went along with the bidding - lucky on the day. Worst case I could repair it and make a bit of money.

To be honest, I don't know why the insurance company didn't have it repaired.

Erich

Bundalene

2nd November 2010, 08:06 PM

The chassis was picked up by the repairer today, should be back on Friday. Unfortunately for us we are helping friends move this coming weekend, to there will be little progress.

Also I have been told by a few people that the seat base and tunnel of the Puma gets quite warm / HOT on long runs. Is this because of gearbox temperatures? I see there is no cooling line like the R380 have. Also the exhaust runs quite close to the gearbox and under the front of the transfer box.

I plan to insulate the floor under the cubby and under the tunnel with a al backed foam material I bought a while back. I was also considering either wrapping the exhaust from the manifold and down to the gearbox, plus a heat deflector. Also some heat sinks on the flat plate of the transfer box. All this is easily do-able while the vehicle is apart. Any thoughts - please be critical if you think I have it wrong, as this vehicle is new to us and a steep learning curve.

Erich

agrojnr

2nd November 2010, 10:57 PM

You could get the exhaust ceramic coated but it is $$$$$$

I have heard about a product from the US not cheap but works I will see if I can find it for you (only thin but keeps heat out)

Adam

Dave1

3rd November 2010, 05:18 AM

This engine looks like a nightmare to work on once it's back in the body.:eek:

Bundalene

3rd November 2010, 06:06 AM

This engine looks like a nightmare to work on once it's back in the body.:eek:

You know it is probably no more difficult than any modern engine.

I am going out today to buy some hose clamps to replace the existing. That's probably just me going over the top as I am not a fan of those clamps used by Land Rover and many other vehicle manufactures. I counted over 20 separate coolant hoses. Remember the Series, pre heater days had 2 or 3.

I must say IMHO the Puma engine now has quite a few hose splitters - 3 , 4 & 5 way pieces in place of those other wierd hoses milti-directional hoses on the TD5 and TDi. It should make bush repairs a lot easier. Also there appear to be 3 main sizes so 3 sections of spare hose should suffice as breakdown spares when the vehicle gets a bit older.

Erich

roverrescue

3rd November 2010, 06:36 AM

isuzurover

3rd November 2010, 01:19 PM

Erich,
Its good to see another of your projects shared for the community!
First, with respect to heat/ sound I noticed Whitworths in Cairns last week had the 25mm foil backed foam insulation sheets (1200x1400mm from memory) were $40 down from $60. Not sure if its ausitralia wide but it may work well in transmission tunnel? Certainly good on boat engine boxes?
Second, how do you rate the KBS product?

Steve

As discussed on here before, the foil backed low density foam stuff (e.g. from Clark Rubber) is no good against sound transmission. It may be good against heat, but not too much heat - I have it on the bonnet of my 110 (as does Rijidij), and both of us have had the section above the turbo melt.

Is this stuff the same as that? or Better?

Bundalene

3rd November 2010, 08:44 PM

Bundalene

3rd November 2010, 08:49 PM

Erich,
Its good to see another of your projects shared for the community!
First, with respect to heat/ sound I noticed Whitworths in Cairns last week had the 25mm foil backed foam insulation sheets (1200x1400mm from memory) were $40 down from $60. Not sure if its ausitralia wide but it may work well in transmission tunnel? Certainly good on boat engine boxes?
Second, how do you rate the KBS product?

Steve

I have been a fan of POR15, but the KBS have a similar product which seems very similar and about $20 per litre less. I will look at the Whitworth product range do some research on heat insullation / sound proofing shortly.

Thanks for your suggestions,

Erich

isuzurover

3rd November 2010, 09:28 PM

The product I have is an aluminium covered foil from Clark Rubber - not very suitable? Thanks for the advice

I have just come across this on the net

Megasorber Acoustic Foam with Non-combustible Sound-absorbing Soundmesh G8 Facing (http://www.megasorber.com/products/sound-absorption/FG-range.html)

Has anyone used this or know the cost?

I will make some enquiries.

Also a product I rear about on this forum is Dynamat, a little expensive at about $60 per square meter, but many rave about it.

Erich

Erich - Bojan (username Offender90) on here is a professional acoustics engineer. He is the best person to talk to about what is - and has posted a few comments on the issue.

A colleague of mine is a heat/thermal engineer, I can ask him what is best for heat if you are interested.

dmdigital

3rd November 2010, 09:46 PM

I'm interested as I need to heat shield above the transfer box (under the panel below the cubby). This gets very hot on a Puma.

Bundalene

5th November 2010, 06:37 AM

The chassis is back from the repair shop, only took a couple of days. The repairer said he got the straightening so close there is no need for a wheel alignment, (I will get one anyhow) all diagonal measurements were spot on.

Before:

http://img266.imageshack.us/img266/3992/dscn9769d.jpg (http://img266.imageshack.us/i/dscn9769d.jpg/)

After:

The pic is a bit dark as it was taken early this morning

http://img513.imageshack.us/img513/2118/dscn0126l.jpg (http://img513.imageshack.us/i/dscn0126l.jpg/)

Now for a full chassis rust seal and cavity wax inside.

I can't work on this until next week as I am helping a mate move house.

Erich

stig0000

5th November 2010, 06:58 AM

so the fun part starts, hope you remeber were all the nuts and bolts go:angel:

and watch out for your heater hoses, as there easy to get the wrong way around,,

Bundalene

5th November 2010, 07:07 AM

so the fun part starts, hope you remeber were all the nuts and bolts go:angel:

and watch out for your heater hoses, as there easy to get the wrong way around,,

Heater hose position is one thing I labeled, They did appear to fit in either position.

Erich

isuzurover

5th November 2010, 09:20 AM

I'm interested as I need to heat shield above the transfer box (under the panel below the cubby). This gets very hot on a Puma.

I had a chat to him. Interestingly, for heat, you need the opposite of what you need for noise. i.e. - to stop sound transmission you need MASS - to limit heat transfer, a material with multiple layers of foil separated by multiple layers of low density material (e.g. foam/air) is best. So a few layers of that foil-lined low density foam may work well.

shamirj

5th November 2010, 06:47 PM

Bundalene

5th November 2010, 07:19 PM

I had a chat to him. Interestingly, for heat, you need the opposite of what you need for noise. i.e. - to stop sound transmission you need MASS - to limit heat transfer, a material with multiple layers of foil separated by multiple layers of low density material (e.g. foam/air) is best. So a few layers of that foil-lined low density foam may work well.

Thanks for that information,

I spoke with the people at Megasorber yesterday and they basically said that there is no one product which works well for both sound and heat and suggested they be tackled individually.

I have also made enquiries with other products such as Pyrotek as used around truck cabins for noise control and Dynamat who also suggested separate acoustic and heat layers. Presently I am not certain which way I will go.

Erich

Bundalene

5th November 2010, 07:31 PM

hi Erich,

When i repaired a older 110 many years ago and wanted the chassis repaired straightened my contact wanted the entire chassis stripped of diff, axles etc. you seem to have gotten away with running gear intact. is this true? And have they welded in new pieces or just simply straightened. what did they do to the buckled pieces of steel on the chassis? In the end we simply bought a brand new chassis from UK and swapped over. though your attempt would be easier. cheers ;)

The 2 buckled spots pulled out straight - you can't see where the chassis was bent. They did remove the dumb iron at the lower left front to get in and straighten the very front corner where the point of impact was. The front cross piece was also replaced.

The longitudal sections of the chassis were not cut or welded.

I stripped the chassis forward of the damaged area, as requested by the repairer. Also the front wheels, trailing arms , axle assemble were removed. The rest of the chassis was left intact.

It was suggested at one stage that repairer may be able to straighted the chassis without even removing the body but this would br far more difficult.

Erich

Bundalene

7th November 2010, 08:09 PM

Today we spent a lot of time cleaning the chassis and then painting it with a rust sealer

http://img190.imageshack.us/img190/4/dscn0155b.jpg (http://img190.imageshack.us/i/dscn0155b.jpg/)

I removed the front cross member and was quite disappointed to find that there had been no paint nor primer behind this prior to assembly. I removed all bolts, brackets and items and rust sealed behind them. This and one other bolt which was not painted behind the nut.

http://img844.imageshack.us/img844/3478/dscn0148.jpg (http://img844.imageshack.us/i/dscn0148.jpg/)

http://img576.imageshack.us/img576/1686/dscn0149o.jpg (http://img576.imageshack.us/i/dscn0149o.jpg/)

http://img295.imageshack.us/img295/7523/dscn0153.jpg (http://img295.imageshack.us/i/dscn0153.jpg/)

. All others were primed and painted before assembly, including the long bracket at the very rear of the chassis. They all got another coat regardless.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2124/dscn0154q.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/i/dscn0154q.jpg/)

The photo does not do this justice. That is only a bit of dust visible, the paint was in good nick.

Erich

austastar

7th November 2010, 09:00 PM

Hi,
Man, are you keen or what - its taken me three days to put on a bull bar and fit a snorkel.

Re your photo of the lousy fitting for the snorkel, that is actually part of the original air intake just inside the mudguard. (the snorkel bits are all external to the mudguard) This was noted in the online instructions for fitting the snorkel, but not on the printed version that came with the product.
You may find this much easier to goop up before it goes back in the vehicle, but check that there is room to get the first bit in when joined to the long inlet duct, I couldn't get mine out and had to goop it in situ.

cheers

Bundalene

7th November 2010, 09:28 PM

It is a bit early to comment on this part of the build. I have a lot of thoughts but done little at this stage. Eventually I plan to replace all the items between the actual snorkel and the air filter as I feel IMHO there is a fair bit of restriction in this section.

http://img703.imageshack.us/img703/7018/dscn9779.jpg (http://img703.imageshack.us/i/dscn9779.jpg/)

I hope I don't finish up with too much air.

I have just found a pic I took early in the piece, showing the air circuit along the inner guard. One can see the restrictions and there is no real physical need for most of this as there is enough space to run a descent intake air line

The air cleaner in this pic is damaged.

Erich

one_iota

8th November 2010, 10:21 AM

Hi Erich,

Thanks for the thread and the interesting insights.

My snorkel (Safari) was installed by Gordon at OL. He replaced all the bits between the snorkel and the box with a flexible rubber duct. He used the Td5 kit rather than the Puma Kit.

Bundalene

8th November 2010, 06:51 PM

Today I went and spoke to the tech guy at Thermotec, an Australian manufacturer of both sound proofing materials and heat insulating products.

After discussing my application with them, I decided to go with a dual approach, using an heat insulating material on the outside of the vehicle and a sound proofing material on the inside of the cab.

For heat insullation, I will be using an 8mm aluminium backed polyethylene foam. One of my main considerations with this product was the thickness as I wanted to maintain as much air flow around the gearbox / transfer box as possible.

Thermotec - Sheet Insulation (http://www.thermotec.com.au/insulation/sheet-insulation/)

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/7058/dscn0162d.jpg (http://img585.imageshack.us/i/dscn0162d.jpg/)

For sound deadening I will be using a product called Nuwave, again by Thermotec. I chose the 6kg per sq meter product. This will go inside the cab, in the doors, on the rear floor, ......

This is a bit over 3mm thick and is a barium impregnated product, looks excellent

pic of a sample of the material

http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/5044/dscn0164tx.jpg (http://img534.imageshack.us/i/dscn0164tx.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Thermotec - Accoustic Insulation (http://www.thermotec.com.au/insulation/E-therm/accoustic-insulation/)

Unfortunately Thermotec do not sell to the public so I had to go elsewhere to buy this, but it isn't straight forward, with a minimum order of $200, so I probably have way more than I need. I won't pick up the Nuwave acoustic insullation until Wednesday.

I also purchased exhaust wrap and coolant hose clamps.

I had a spare hour before dark and sprayed the inside of the chassis with cavity wax. I use a 3M product with excellent retention properties

http://img684.imageshack.us/img684/3443/dscn0158t.jpg (http://img684.imageshack.us/i/dscn0158t.jpg/)

Erich

Bundalene

11th November 2010, 07:46 AM

The cab is now heat insulated. I put 2 layers around the large open space above the transfer box, top and sides and a single layer around the front of the tunnel and across under both front floors beneath the plastic guards.

The material I used has a heat rating of R3.5 and is 8mm thick. Once formed into a shape and taped on it appears to be quite solid.

I don't know how effective this will be, but it should help keep the cab a bit cooler.

This was a bugger of a job and took far longer than anticipated. I was considering running the material up the firewall but don't think I will gain much.

I think the biggest source of heat into the cab is through small holes and gaps.

Doesn't look that pretty, but no one else will ever see it.

http://img824.imageshack.us/img824/8909/dscn0187z.jpg (http://img824.imageshack.us/i/dscn0187z.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

This first piece to be installed was the area of double thickness. The only mechanical support was a piece of aluminium angle attached to the protruding bolts of one of the seat rails.

http://img41.imageshack.us/img41/382/dscn0179u.jpg (http://img41.imageshack.us/i/dscn0179u.jpg/)

Erich

Bundalene

12th November 2010, 07:47 PM

This is what hides behind the Puma dash. Pics taken with the dash removed. I have removed this to rust seal and then sound deaden the inside of the cab.

Right side

http://img152.imageshack.us/img152/6848/dscn0212.jpg (http://img152.imageshack.us/i/dscn0212.jpg/)

Center section

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/8981/dscn0211s.jpg (http://img831.imageshack.us/i/dscn0211s.jpg/)

Left side

http://img707.imageshack.us/img707/5136/dscn0210o.jpg (http://img707.imageshack.us/i/dscn0210o.jpg/)

On a good note, Land Rover have replaced all the standard press coolant hose clamps with alloy clamps on all areas there hoses are connected to alloy components. I am in the process of changing all hose clamps with stainless clamps

On the TD5, the likes of the hose to the temperature sensor housing failed on a regular bases due to these clamps.

Also, I like the decent heads on the screws securing the floor panels.

I started on the firewall repair around the lower section of the drivers door. This entailed removing a section of firewall from one I had out the back of the shed. Several AULRO members may recognise this item.:D:D

This is the section removed.

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/739/dscn0226.jpg (http://img813.imageshack.us/i/dscn0226.jpg/)

I prefer the solid spot weld drills to the mini holesaw type - always use cutting compound.

http://img32.imageshack.us/img32/5259/dscn0221b.jpg (http://img32.imageshack.us/i/dscn0221b.jpg/)

I dropped the body back onto the chassis temporarily and installed the long firewall bolts, to help with correct alignment.

http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/3248/dscn0228bn.jpg (http://img691.imageshack.us/i/dscn0228bn.jpg/)

Erich

cewilson

13th November 2010, 10:57 AM

As a side thought - just check with your insurance company before you put the exhaust wrap on - some have a problem with it.

Coming along nicely though mate

Cheers
Chris

Bundalene

13th November 2010, 06:31 PM

Spent half the day removing the damaged piece of the firewall. Defenders are great, I doubt this section of firewall has changed since 1983. This red one is out of a 2003 Defender.

We did try to slide hammer the damage out but this just got too hard.

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/3960/dscn0251y.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/dscn0251y.jpg/)

All fitted like a glove. The section is bolted back onto the B - C pillar section and onto the chassis. I took lots of measurements and all seems to be good.

I unplugged all controllers I know of - the ECU, the Imobiliser and the Wabco ABS controller before starting to weld the section back in.

http://img705.imageshack.us/img705/5892/dscn0258tc.jpg (http://img705.imageshack.us/i/dscn0258tc.jpg/)

Erich

rovercare

13th November 2010, 06:38 PM

As always, your work is ****ing excellent:)

Xtreme

13th November 2010, 06:42 PM

Good to see some of the old red machine being used. :D

Bundalene

13th November 2010, 07:09 PM

Good to see some of the old red machine being used. :D

Hi Roger,

YES the red car lives on in at least 4 vehicles that I know of, This one, a 2000 model 130, a 100 inch wheel base and a D2 update.

I gave a hint a few of posts back.

The top of the firewall was too difficult to ever starighten and re-use, so I did the next best thing.

Lucky for me I was able to rescue and keep it in my graveyard of spares.

Erich

Xtreme

13th November 2010, 07:25 PM

Hi Roger,

YES the red car lives on in at least 4 vehicles that I know of, This one, a 2000 model 130, a 100 inch wheel base and a D2 update.

I gave a hint a few of posts back.

The top of the firewall was too difficult to ever starighten and re-use, so I did the next best thing.

Lucky for me I was able to rescue and keep it in my graveyard of spares.

Erich

Yes, I picked up your hint Erich.

Mechanically it was a fine vehicle, I'm glad that there are are few people benefitting from it.

Must catch up with you some time and get some more info.

That puma is going to be a ripper when you finish your excellent work on it.

Bundalene

16th November 2010, 06:33 PM

I found a bit of rust near the lower section of the passenger door support behind the matting. I stripped almost everything off the inside of the firewall, HUGE job. I spent better than an hour trying to remove the air conditioning unit but gave up. I didn't want to damage it. I’d say it is glued in like the Series2 Disco heater assemblies are.

http://img269.imageshack.us/img269/6132/dscn0328i.jpg (http://img269.imageshack.us/i/dscn0328i.jpg/)

I painted the inside of the firewall painted as far as possible, with a rust sealer, should never have a rust problem again in this area.

http://img574.imageshack.us/img574/879/dscn0332w.jpg (http://img574.imageshack.us/i/dscn0332w.jpg/)

Replacing the floor on the drivers side after the panel repair proved a challenge, not the sort of thing to be done too often.

I have started insulating the firewall on the engine bay side.

http://img176.imageshack.us/img176/8470/dscn0336eo.jpg (http://img176.imageshack.us/i/dscn0336eo.jpg/)

Erich

rijidij

16th November 2010, 08:02 PM

Erich,
Is that 'Formshield' you're using in the engine bay ? I'm sure you will be very happy with the result of your insulating efforts. My Isuzu County is much quieter than my 300Tdi 130 and also quieter than the Td5 Defender I had. I also did the underside of the bonnet.

Cheers, Murray

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/869.jpg

jake

16th November 2010, 09:50 PM

Erich,

When time permits are you able to advise me on how many breathers their are are and locations if possible.

Jake

Redback

17th November 2010, 06:33 AM

I took a little trip out to see Erich and Sheila and have a chat and a beer, you really don't get how big a job Erich has done until you see in person, very impressed with the whole project (god I wish I had a shed:()

Baz.

Bundalene

17th November 2010, 09:26 AM

Erich,

When time permits are you able to advise me on how many breathers their are are and locations if possible.

Jake

Hi Jake, there are 4 breathers which have lines attached, The front and back diffs, the fuel tank and the transfer case.

I am assuming the gearbox actually vents into the bell housing area, which is part of the gearbox. The Puma does not have a separate bell housing.

Gearbox line to bellhousing.

http://img100.imageshack.us/img100/1540/dscn0343j.jpg (http://img100.imageshack.us/i/dscn0343j.jpg/)

Transfer breather

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/2046/dscn0339g.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dscn0339g.jpg/)

Typical diff breather

http://img221.imageshack.us/img221/3720/dscn0340z.jpg (http://img221.imageshack.us/i/dscn0340z.jpg/)

fuel tank breather

http://img717.imageshack.us/img717/7216/dscn9775i.jpg (http://img717.imageshack.us/i/dscn9775i.jpg/)

Erich

cucinadio

17th November 2010, 11:15 AM

off topic but Lou, D1 with the LS (formally known as the ES) pack which is from 98 on had the boost alloys. Before that they had the freestyle ones.

Oy dad, post up a pic of the only non svx leather defender seats in aus.

as on mine .......an Ls...i guess you have just cleared up the confusion i had .....[thumbsupbig]

cheers

c.h.i.e.f

17th November 2010, 04:05 PM

Rijidij I also hav a problem with noise levels with the isuzu but as most of us know its not exhaust noise its engine noise :( so everyone recommends this product as a sound deadiner?

isuzurover

17th November 2010, 04:36 PM

Bundalene

17th November 2010, 06:19 PM

Rijidij I also hav a problem with noise levels with the isuzu but as most of us know its not exhaust noise its engine noise :( so everyone recommends this product as a sound deadiner?

To date I have only installed the heat insullation. I will install the sound reducing material on the inside of the cab. The heat insulating material is an foil backed foam material. The sound deadener is a heavy dense mat as in the pics below. There are varying densitoes available. I was recommended 6kgs per sq meter

http://img530.imageshack.us/img530/1057/dscn0359g.jpg (http://img530.imageshack.us/i/dscn0359g.jpg/)

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/5479/dscn0357p.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/i/dscn0357p.jpg/)

Each roll weighs 25 Kgs

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/6168/dscn0354kc.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/i/dscn0354kc.jpg/)

Erich

Bundalene

17th November 2010, 06:59 PM

Today I finished heat insulating the firewall.

http://img16.imageshack.us/img16/7582/dscn0352q.jpg (http://img16.imageshack.us/i/dscn0352q.jpg/)

Also lowered the engine / gearbox back onto the chassis

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7386/dscn0349u.jpg (http://img819.imageshack.us/i/dscn0349u.jpg/)

Also found a funny thing. I was critical about an unpainted section behind a bolt along the chassis rail. LOL, it was the earth connection from the battery to the chassis, should not be painted!

Erich

jake

17th November 2010, 07:25 PM

Thanks Erich for your photos and assistance, very much appreciated.
Jake

Scouse

17th November 2010, 07:34 PM

I can see you're not going to enjoy the true Defender experience with this car Erich :(.

Bundalene

17th November 2010, 08:56 PM

I can see you're not going to enjoy the true Defender experience with this car Erich :(.

:Rolling::Rolling::Rolling::Rolling:

That's GOLD

Erich

rijidij

17th November 2010, 08:57 PM

Rijidij I also hav a problem with noise levels with the isuzu but as most of us know its not exhaust noise its engine noise :( so everyone recommends this product as a sound deadiner?

No - the foil-backed low density foam stuff is very poor at stopping noise transmission. It is reasonable for heat though.

There have been a few discussions on this if you search.

G'day Ben,
I would refer to the formshield as high density closed cell foam. It certainly made a big difference to the noise levels in my County. Are you sure you're talking about the same stuff ? It's recommended as a thermal and noise insulator here >>>> Formshield (http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=1065) <<<< That's why I used it as it had a bit of both. I'm sure the dedicated noise insulating sheet like Erich is using is better for sound proofing though.

Cheers, Murray

ROMAROVER

17th November 2010, 09:34 PM

Having 'experienced' the lr/ defender experience with the kilometres and trips that sheila and yourself have done it should be nice to drive a cool, quiet defender for a new experience.:)
Good luck

isuzurover

18th November 2010, 12:10 AM

G'day Ben,
I would refer to the formshield as high density closed cell foam. It certainly made a big difference to the noise levels in my County. Are you sure you're talking about the same stuff ? It's recommended as a thermal and noise insulator here >>>> Formshield (http://www.lincolnsentry.com.au/Product.aspx?id=1065) <<<< That's why I used it as it had a bit of both. I'm sure the dedicated noise insulating sheet like Erich is using is better for sound proofing though.

Cheers, Murray

Hi Murray,

It is low density compared to any decent soundproofing material. The link you posted says 28 kg / CUBIC metre!!!

Also - as Offender90 (professional acoustics engineer) has posted - foam needs to be OPEN cell for noise supression. Open cell low density foam is good at stopping sound reverberation.

I have bought some and used it - on the underside of my bonnet. It made a slight difference, though I think that was more due to reducing vibration of the bonnet.

3-4 db noise reducted claimed by the formshield is fairly low.

As discussed previously in this thread, the properties required to reduce sound transmission are opposite to the properties required for thermal insulation.

lebanon

18th November 2010, 04:28 AM

Hi Erich

what is the material you are using for insulating your firewall?

Thank you

Bundalene

18th November 2010, 06:21 AM

Hi Erich

what is the material you are using for insulating your firewall?

Thank you

Hi, I have used 2 materials for heat proofing the cab.

Underneath I used 2 layers of a material I recently purchased from Thermotec with an R rating of 3.5, an aluminium backed (both sides) with an open chemical resistant foam. This had to be physically held in place. I used this so that I could still remove the floor or tunnel sections of the cab.

I found this difficult to attach to the firewall, so I used another product which I bought from Clark Rubber about a year ago. This has a heavy aluminium backing on one side, attached to about 12mm of foam and a peel off stick on layer on the other side. I have used this for it's heat reflective properties and am unaware of the R ratings, nor it's acoustic credentials.

I will be using another product namely Nuware or Wavebar, for sound proofing on the inside of the cab.

I am no acoustics nor thermo-dynamic engineer and am only using products on recommendations. I am advised that the best sound proofing products for automotive applications are in the form of dense mats. There are many products available such as 'Resomat' (5kgs per sq meter), 'Dynapad' (5.5 kgs per sq meter) etc etc. The Nuwave which I will use is available in 4, 6 & 8 kgs per sq meter. I was advised to use 6 kgs per sq meter.

The material from Clark rubber weighs a few kgs for a whole roll - not very dense at all.

Hope that helps,

Erich

c.h.i.e.f

18th November 2010, 07:25 AM

Looks like I'll give that nuwave a go because the noise from the engine coming through firewall is terrible

spudboy

18th November 2010, 08:40 AM

Fantastic project. Nice to see the 'insides' of a Puma exposed. Can't belive how fast you work. It takes me ages to get things done, and I wish I had more time in my life to get stuck into my 130.

Thanks for the tip about the KBS paint system. Sounds very like POR-15. Have sent off for a brochure.

one_iota

18th November 2010, 11:01 AM

wovenrovings

18th November 2010, 11:54 AM

On a note about the heat from the gearbox? into the seat box, how found this an issue in the 5 speed isuzu county but not the 4 speed. In the 5 speed the seat box gets almost too hot to touch on a long drive. Will be interested to hear how well your insulation work in this location.

Dan.
P.S. Excellent pics and writeup Bundalene.

Bundalene

18th November 2010, 04:16 PM

Erich,

Great work!

The heat eminating from the transfer/exhaust area and being felt in the seat box is a real issue. I noticed this again on mine after the trip from Sydney to the Abercrombie NP on the weekend.

Do you think that it would be possible to install the heat insulation without taking the body off?

I had a look under our TD5 Defender and there seems enough room to install heat insullation in the open center seat box area. The trick will be to clean the existing surface first. Easiest done from a hoist. I won't be able to answer definitively until I put the body back on the Puma

Strange, the tunnel section of the TD5 already has insullation underneath but the Puma doesn't.

One of the reasons for going to these measures is that our TD5 gets quite hot around the front edge of the seat box - around the handbrake and same spot on the passenger side.

I have already had the phone call from our daughter "when can you insulate our 130?" LOL

Erich

Bundalene

18th November 2010, 04:56 PM

I had a thought about the access through the firewall for additional wiring, which is relatively easy at this stage.

Planned extras involving access to the dash:

Fuel pumps for the sill tanks 2 wires + 0v
Fuel filter water trap warning 2 wires + 0v
Fuel gauges ? 3 wires (2 signal 1 +v, 1 0v)
Lockers 4 wires
Rear work lights 1 wire + 0v
Volt meter 1 wire + 1 0v
Cruise control - when it become affordable - all required signals already in the area.

Driving lts and UHF radio already installed.

I plan to add an EGT gauge but this will mean running an additional thermo-couple cable at a later date as I don't want to drill and tap my manifold at this stage.

I ran 2 x 6 core and earth cables through the firewall for these (.75 sqmm) and put a plug on each in the engine bay. (similar to trailer cable). This way I will be able to connect onto either end when the time comes.

Things such as fridge, aux, HF radio and air compressor wiring will be dealt with separately.

This cable will be tucked under the right guard somewhere.

http://img191.imageshack.us/img191/9675/dscn0367e.jpg (http://img191.imageshack.us/i/dscn0367e.jpg/)

Passenger side, not sure where this will end up?

http://img594.imageshack.us/img594/6356/dscn0368q.jpg (http://img594.imageshack.us/i/dscn0368q.jpg/)

http://img33.imageshack.us/img33/7229/dscn0366a.jpg (http://img33.imageshack.us/i/dscn0366a.jpg/)

Also inslalled the passenger side. I found the sound Nuwave material difficult to work with on vertical surfaces. On horizontal surfaces it is excellent.

http://img708.imageshack.us/img708/2583/dscn0370b.jpg (http://img708.imageshack.us/i/dscn0370b.jpg/)

I finished covering the Nuwave material with a layer of the sticky back material which holds all in place nicely

http://img821.imageshack.us/img821/2065/dscn0374j.jpg (http://img821.imageshack.us/i/dscn0374j.jpg/)

Erich

one_iota

18th November 2010, 07:19 PM

Erich,

With all that sound insulation it will be so quiet you'll be able to hear what Sheila is thinking.....is that wise? ;)

What did you have in mind for the fuel filter water trap?

Bundalene

18th November 2010, 09:03 PM

Erich,

With all that sound insulation it will be so quiet you'll be able to hear what Sheila is thinking.....is that wise? ;)

What did you have in mind for the fuel filter water trap?

Might be able to install a hands free phone. :D:D:D:D

I installed an earlier TD5 Disco fuel water warning unit out of a Series2 Disco in our 2006 TD5 Defender and it is just peace of mind. I put up a thread a while ago and will see if I can find it.

Erich

dmdigital

18th November 2010, 10:05 PM

Bundalene

19th November 2010, 06:18 AM

The Puma's fuel filter incorporates a water trap which isn't as good as a separate unit would be. More importantly the filter is 5micron which is now becoming the recommended filtration on diesel for plant and equipment. I'd look at leaving the filter intact.

I am going to do something, having read a number of reports about water getting through the filter and into the system, unless this was the case with very early Pumas.

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich

AJSLRD

19th November 2010, 07:46 AM

Erich,

I have a filter / water trap system on the auxiliary fuel tank I built under the tray on my 130, works well if I have to take on some fuel from unreliable sources.
I just simply pump the fuel through the filter / trap straight into the main tank.
There has been water in the trap once or twice, I just drain it off, smile at the investment as it saved me a bucket of grief.
I generally like most I buy fuel from high turn over outlets.

Great work, keep posting...

Allen

lebanon

19th November 2010, 02:18 PM

Hi Erich,

I thank you for the information on the insulating material.

I am not sure to find the same product over here in Lebanon, I will do my search because it is vital for well being of the kids. The V8 is turning the inside of the 110 into an oven.

I still can't imagine how and why land rover didn't insulate their cars? especially that their largest markets were in tempered areas of the world. Another mystery.

Pat

dullbird

19th November 2010, 05:09 PM

I am going to do something,
having read a number of reports about water getting through the filter and into the system, unless this was the case with very early Pumas.

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich
I think it was more of a case that the filter was probably overwhelmed.

Bundalene

20th November 2010, 04:22 PM

I had a good look at the fuel system this afternoon. I stand to be corrected on any of the info below.

Firstly, the fuel filter. To replace this it is a ¼ turn anti clockwise and then pull down. As mentioned in an earlier post, the top of the filter starts to rust. This is because it is exposed to the outside elements, including water, …. The actual seal is inside the center section

http://img832.imageshack.us/img832/8314/dscn0383.jpg (http://img832.imageshack.us/i/dscn0383.jpg/)

The main fuel line is 8mm ID and 10mm OD, the return line is 6mm ID and 8mm OD. To remove the fuel lines, press on the blue or coloured tab and to release from a flange and pull off the line. Sealing is achieved with an O ring inside the fitting.

http://img207.imageshack.us/img207/1373/dscn0395e.jpg (http://img207.imageshack.us/i/dscn0395e.jpg/)

Fuel enters the filter from the outside opening of the center of the filter housing and goes to the engine through the center pipe as in the pic below (this is taken of the filter housing from underneath)

http://img21.imageshack.us/img21/3029/dscn0386z.jpg (http://img21.imageshack.us/i/dscn0386z.jpg/)

To drain out water from the filter, get a clear glass jar, hold this under the filter and open the drain valve at the bottom of the filter for a short time. Check the jar for water globules. If you don't use a jar, the fuel will hit the trailing are and run down towards the rear.

The way I understand the fuel system works:

Fuel is sucked out of the tank and through the filter via the 10mm line. Then onto the engine. Excess fuel is returned via the 8mm line to the fuel (cooler / heater) and back to the filter. This is then mixed with fuel from the tank and sent back to the engine, with excess draining back to the tank (I am not 100% sure about this)

View from above of the fuel cooler.

http://img198.imageshack.us/img198/1035/dscn0400tz.jpg (http://img198.imageshack.us/i/dscn0400tz.jpg/)

View of the top of the fuel tank.

http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/97/dscn0396u.jpg (http://img713.imageshack.us/i/dscn0396u.jpg/)

I thought it would be a simple task to install the water trap sensor from an early TD5 Disco into the Puma filter, but alas, the TD5 Disco thread is 8mm and the PUMA filter has a 3/8 UNC or 3/8 whitworth thread (same TPI)

http://img143.imageshack.us/img143/3803/dscn0398h.jpg (http://img143.imageshack.us/i/dscn0398h.jpg/)

I have been searching for a supplier of the fuel line fittings and as far as I can find, they are either a US product from ‘TI Automotive’ or ‘Dorman Products’ part? I have found an interesting kit on the internet but don’t know if it is compatible with these lines. Has anyone any info on a local supplier of these?

Item # W43A0220-0234 on TI Automotive, Global Fluid Carrying Systems (http://tiautoglobalfluid.thomasnet.com/item/ti-compact-quick-connector-2/ti-compact-quick-connector-3/item-1232?&bc=100|3001016|3001020|3001018)

See the fuel line repair kit
http://www.dormanproducts.com/catalog/OESolutions2006/149-154FuelLines.pdf

Erich

dullbird

20th November 2010, 05:15 PM

Ian also found a design glitch with the fuel filter but land rover were not interested in it.

I can't remember exactly now but it was to do with the unscrewing of the drain plug which meant that debris could actually be screwed back into the filter housing...we worked it out after find sand and grit in the bottom of a drain off checking for water and could not understand how it got there..after cutting open a filter it was obvious how it got there

cewilson

21st November 2010, 09:14 AM

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich

A trick I learnt a few years ago filling aircraft in remote areas - place a small piece of timber under the 44gallon drum so it's on an angle.

Water will naturally flow to the lowest point of the fuel (heavier than fuel) so it gives you a bigger safety margin over contamination (you're not drawing from the very bottom of the drum).

one_iota

21st November 2010, 11:11 AM

I am going to do something, having read a number of reports about water getting through the filter and into the system, unless this was the case with very early Pumas.

We regularly fill up fuel from 44 gallon drums in some of the remote spots we go and water in fuel is a real issue.

Erich

Maybe one of these would be a useful addition to the list of things to take to remote places:

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/606.jpg

H&B Baja Filters, LLC (http://www.bajafilters.com/index.html)

Pedro_The_Swift

21st November 2010, 11:21 AM

^^ there is a concern about fueling to or from portable containers,, mainly due to static electricity.
the idea is great!

85 county

21st November 2010, 11:23 AM

a shammie (spelling), use it as a filter, water will not pass though but fuel will

dullbird

21st November 2010, 11:37 AM

a shammie (spelling), use it as a filter, water will not pass though but fuel will

as in the cloth that you wipe wet cars down with? chamois leather?

85 county

21st November 2010, 12:56 PM

as in the cloth that you wipe wet cars down with? chamois leather?

yeppa thats the one, as long as its a real one.

we used them when toping of on back block strips, filling from 44 gallon drums

Don 130

21st November 2010, 01:20 PM

very fine metal gauze will do the same as long as it is wet with diesel before the water gets to it . The water will stay on top of the gauze while the diesel will go through. Also there has to be enough room for the diesel to push the water aside. If there's so much water on the gauze that it forms a complete layer, there could be issues of the diesel pushing the water down and through. Hope all this make sense. Don.

miky

22nd November 2010, 10:12 AM

dmdigital

22nd November 2010, 05:30 PM

No 5micron is also to remove particulates. A water trap is still recommended.

isuzurover

22nd November 2010, 05:46 PM

My understanding is that the fuel filter is 5 microns to remove water. I doubt very much that the filter filters mentioned above go that far so some water above 5 microns will get through which means that water will accumulate in the fuel filter and regular maintenance (draining) will still be required.

I have attached the relevant file from the Puma manual about the fuel system.

.

Micron ratings of filters really annoy me - though they are commonly used in (liquid) filtration. (almost all) Filters are not sieves, so they usually don't remove all of the particles of a given size. So a "5 micron rated" filter will probably only remove ~50% of 5 micron particles.

Water filtration is not really the same as solid contaminant filtration in fluids. The (hydro) -phobicity or -philicity of the media is often just as or more important than the fibre diameter etc (i.e. how well it filters).

Modern (commonrail) engines need better water removal than older engines. Also, all diesel can now have up to 5% bio in AU, with 10% coming soon. This has caused extra issues, as water is (partially) soluble in most bio, and the water can come out of solution after it has passed through the filter.

If I had a puma, I would contact Donaldson or Fleetgard and see what they reccommend as an additional filter.

Failing that, just putting one of the good old CAV filter/sedimenters before the main filter will - at the very least - extend the life of the $$$ main filter, but should also reduce the chance of water getting through. Before anyone says that the CAV won't handle the flow/pressure, there are plenty of prople using them on toyota D4D engines.

Bundalene

22nd November 2010, 06:48 PM

Bundalene

22nd November 2010, 07:01 PM

This afternoon we masked up the front right A pillar and spray painted with Hifill.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/7664/dscn0424y.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/i/dscn0424y.jpg/)

Tomorrow a rub back and final colour I hope. All other panels will be painted off the car, including the snorkel, mirrors, ....

Erich

Naks

22nd November 2010, 07:13 PM

very fine metal gauze will do the same as long as it is wet with diesel before the water gets to it . .

One of those facemasks that paint shops use will also do the trick.

isuzurover

22nd November 2010, 07:17 PM

I was thinking of something like the following at the engine bay end - a bit cramped I must admit. I would also add a water trap sensor.

DIESEL FUEL FILTER WITH HAND PRIMER - 5 MICRON For Sale in Australia (http://www.ultraparts.com.au/auction/1139330/DIESEL_FUEL_FILTER_WITH_HAND_PRIMER_-_5_MICRON/)

My problem is breaking into the existing fuel lines neatly. I have been looking for a fuel line repair kit from a US company Dorman Products - not sure if this is what I need? I have done a lot of investigating and can only buy OEM lines with fittings. There are a few vehicle manufacturers who are now using these fittings.

Erich

Erich - That is the CAV type filter - I have bought them without the hand primer for ~$65 from places like QLD diesel spares / truckline. You can get a sedeimenter only with an alloy bowl, and then make one large combined filter/sedimenter out of the two - you just need a longer centre bolt (of course you may already be aware of all this???).

A 5 micron rating is quite coarse by modern standards. I am sure the standard filter would be better than that. So if you place it after the main filter, it won't do much, and won't prolong the life of your main filter. CAV type elements are <$5 each. I probably replace 3 of them for each 1 main (isuzu) filter on my 110.

dullbird

22nd November 2010, 07:30 PM

If your going to fit one Erich I will watch with interest...

I was warned off due to adding another restriction to the fuel line...but I'm sure that was advice based on theory not practical

isuzurover

22nd November 2010, 07:40 PM

If your going to fit one Erich I will watch with interest...

I was warned off due to adding another restriction to the fuel line...but I'm sure that was advice based on theory not practical

Commonrail diesels flow much more fuel than they need. The pressure drop through a 5um filter won't be huge. As I mentioned - there are plenty of D4D owners using them.

You can also get 1 and 2 micron rated filters for CAV setups. However I personally would fit a 5 micron before the main filter.

one_iota

22nd November 2010, 08:19 PM

Bundalene

22nd November 2010, 08:49 PM

Erich,

Taking into account the comments above:

The fuel filter on the puma is located forward of the drivers side rear wheel on the chassis rail and is "protected" by a removable steel cover.

If the main filter was moved forward to say the firewall (as you say space is challenging) and the additional cav type filter with water trap and detector took the place of the original filter would this work?

The only problem moving the filter unit to the engine bay is the other function of the filter which houses a temperature controlled valve in the return line. This is a quote from the manual:

The thermostatic diverter valve is fully closed at 45 degrees Celsius and sends fuel directly to the tank. When the diverter is open fuel is re-circulated through the filter to the engine.

Erich

isuzurover

23rd November 2010, 09:20 AM

The only problem moving the filter unit to the engine bay is the other function of the filter which houses a temperature controlled valve in the return line. This is a quote from the manual:

The thermostatic diverter valve is fully closed at 45 degrees Celsius and sends fuel directly to the tank. When the diverter is open fuel is re-circulated through the filter to the engine.

Erich

It sounds as if the purpose of the valve is to heat the fuel in the fuel rail (etc) up to operating temperature as quickly as possible???

If so - moving it closer to the engine will only mean the fuel rail gets to operating temp faster.

However, on a 110, there is room for a filter on either side of the outrugger in front of the rear wheel. However the front location might be out if you are fitting a long range tank?

Bundalene

24th November 2010, 07:18 PM

I splashed out today and bought a new fuel tank - a 'Long Ranger' from ARB. I figured it is way easier installing a long range tank with the body removed.

I don't plan of making an inspection hole in the rear floor as I did in our previous Defender, as there is no fuel pump to worry about.

The tank capacity has dropped 7 litres to 120 litres as compared to the TD5 Defender long range tank.

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/4828/dscn04380.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/dscn04380.jpg/)

The first job before installation was to rust proof it with KBS rust sealant. I didn't like grey anyhow. Also shown in the pic are new sway bar mounts.

http://img219.imageshack.us/img219/6162/dscn04520.jpg (http://img219.imageshack.us/i/dscn04520.jpg/)

Below is a pic of the fuel gauge, most Puma owners will never see this, hopefully. The gauge reading as measured is 324 ohms empty and 8 ohms full.

http://img545.imageshack.us/img545/1989/dscn04460.jpg (http://img545.imageshack.us/i/dscn04460.jpg/)

A note of warning to anyone looking at fitting these, the Hayman Reese R2490 nor the stardard Land Rover tow bar are compatible when installing this tank. I am going to install the tow bar on the right in the pic, which is from an earlier Defender I just happen to have. A few small mods required. I am not sure about the rear step. I think it will fit, but this will probably not finish going back onto the car.

http://img88.imageshack.us/img88/7258/dscn04450.jpg (http://img88.imageshack.us/i/dscn04450.jpg/)

Erich

rovercare

24th November 2010, 07:24 PM

Wanna sell me a standard towbar Erich? as I have a standard rear tank, so clearance is not an issue:)

Bundalene

24th November 2010, 09:36 PM

PM sent,

Erich

dullbird

24th November 2010, 10:02 PM

mmmmm Erich its going to be another extremely well built vehicle.

I'm not sure if I have missed it somewhere I know you said that you were colour coding flares and mirrors etc..But are you keeping the stornaway grey? or are you going a lighter colour like your TD5

Bundalene

25th November 2010, 11:05 AM

We will keep the Stornaway grey colour Lou. We have sort of got used to the colour now and we quite like it.:)

Cheers, Erich

Bundalene

26th November 2010, 06:34 PM

Installed the fuel tank yesterday, quite straight forward. I ran the tank breather towards the front of the car, it will end up somewhere around the left side inner guard

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/9509/dscn0458x.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/dscn0458x.jpg/)

http://img249.imageshack.us/img249/8448/dscn0459v.jpg (http://img249.imageshack.us/i/dscn0459v.jpg/)

.
Next, connected lots of bits to the engine, chassis etc such as fuel cooler, tail shafts, ………

Then I lowered the body back onto the chassis. I had to trim some of the heat insulation as it interfered with the chassis.

http://img98.imageshack.us/img98/9647/dscn0460p.jpg (http://img98.imageshack.us/i/dscn0460p.jpg/)

http://img199.imageshack.us/img199/820/dscn0461o.jpg (http://img199.imageshack.us/i/dscn0461o.jpg/)

Now to align everything and then reconnect cables, brake lines, ……

The back of the body in this corner is too close to the chassis. Alignment can take some time.

http://img841.imageshack.us/img841/5228/dscn04630.jpg (http://img841.imageshack.us/i/dscn04630.jpg/)

Erich

Disco_owner

26th November 2010, 08:35 PM

We will keep the Stornaway grey colour Lou. We have sort of got used to the colour now and we quite like it.:)

Cheers, Erich

Hi Erich , the "stornaway" grey color is a nice color.:cool:

Bundalene

29th November 2010, 05:39 PM

The repair is moving on slowly as we are quite time poor presently. Much of the engine wiring has now been re-connected.

http://img257.imageshack.us/img257/4920/dscn0513a.jpg (http://img257.imageshack.us/i/dscn0513a.jpg/)

A lot of time is spent on detail, such as welding the screws through the firewall onto a plate so they can be easily removed / replaced, Also strapping all earths back to a central point, rather than trlying on the chassis for the earth path.

From this
http://img638.imageshack.us/img638/5534/dscn0315u.jpg (http://img638.imageshack.us/i/dscn0315u.jpg/)

To this

http://img10.imageshack.us/img10/7143/dscn0509pc.jpg (http://img10.imageshack.us/i/dscn0509pc.jpg/)

I spent some time straightening the air conditioning condenser as this a very expensive item to replace. The condenser didn’t leak but was a bit twisted in the accident.

http://img9.imageshack.us/img9/2841/dscn0511w.jpg (http://img9.imageshack.us/i/dscn0511w.jpg/)

Erich

isuzurover

29th November 2010, 05:44 PM

I notice Erich that you seem to be spending as much time fixing things that the factory should have done in the first place as fixing the accident damage.

Bundalene

29th November 2010, 06:09 PM

I think the workmanship by Land Rover on the Puma is excellent and by far the best Defender I have worked on.

I am a bit fussy about a lot of things and probably go over the top, but I have the oportunity of preparing this vehicle the way I want it.

Land Rover have made great improvements in the quality of fittings used, such as nuts, bolts, clips, .... on this vehicle as compared to previous ones. Also things such as rust proofing, the firewall on this car was full of cavity wax, the fact that I added more is probably neither here nor there.

I am probably pointing our some of the short comings IMHO but at the end of the day these may never be a problem to 99.9% of Puma owners.

I am preparing a vehicle which we hope to see us for a few years, trying to make it as comfortable and bullet proof as possible.

Like Scott's comment in an earlier post that I may miss out on the "Defender experience" with this vehicle

Erich

Narangga

29th November 2010, 07:59 PM

The repair is moving on slowly as we are quite time poor presently. Much of the engine wiring has now been re-connected.

It's called Daylight Saving Erich. :angel:

dmdigital

29th November 2010, 08:35 PM

:Rolling: :Rolling: :Rolling:

dullbird

29th November 2010, 08:38 PM

hey Erich there is a PUMA engine, gearbox and transfer case on ebay job lot for 15grand.....did you put a 200tdi in that beast you sneaky thing you....hahahahahahhahah:D

Hoges

29th November 2010, 09:44 PM

Bundalene

1st December 2010, 06:39 PM

Spent most of the day sound proofing the cab – what a job and still not finished.

Sound proofing material was installed behind the dash, along the front of the seat boxes, across the tunnel and in under the A/C unit, under the floor mats etc.etc. I hope it will help.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/5325/dscn0597zd.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/dscn0597zd.jpg/)

http://img442.imageshack.us/img442/3127/dscn0600v.jpg (http://img442.imageshack.us/i/dscn0600v.jpg/)

A bit of advice, don’t go this far with sound proofing unless you are really keen!

Erich

dmdigital

1st December 2010, 08:17 PM

That's going to be like a sponge when you go through the Goyder next time :eek:

It will be interesting to see how different it is when all is back together and running.

By the way Erich, forgot to mention, the Radiator, Intercooler and A/C core are all interchangeable with the Td5 or so I've been told.

Scouse

2nd December 2010, 08:18 AM

That's going to be like a sponge when you go through the Goyder next time :eek:

It'll be a perfect creek crossing car.

If it's too deep you can just sit there for 5min. Let the sponge soak up the water & you can drive out :).

Bundalene

2nd December 2010, 09:08 AM

The sound deadener material is not a sponge like material - completely non water absorbent. It is a rather dense material - barium impregnated at 6kgs per sq meter and about 6mm thick.

http://img263.imageshack.us/img263/9075/dscn0605a.jpg (http://img263.imageshack.us/i/dscn0605a.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Hard to get a good pic.

Erich

dmdigital

2nd December 2010, 05:09 PM

It'll be a perfect creek crossing car.

If it's too deep you can just sit there for 5min. Let the sponge soak up the water & you can drive out :).

:Rolling: :Rolling:

The sound deadener material is not a sponge like material - completely non water absorbent. It is a rather dense material - barium impregnated at 6kgs per sq meter and about 6mm thick.
Is it like the white stuff under the carpet in the D2?

saiken

2nd December 2010, 08:27 PM

Is it like the white stuff under the carpet in the D2?

Dunno what's under your carpets ( I have a defender ) but if you go back a few pages Erich has posted up the specs for both the sound and heat insulating products their using.

[edit]
I went back and dug it up for you....
http://www.thermotec.com.au/insulation/E-therm/accoustic-insulation/

Bundalene

3rd December 2010, 07:39 PM

I spent some time bleeding the fuel system, that was after getting the fuel lines through the small gap between the body and chassis, just forward of the fuel filter.

It took me 2 trips to a wrecker looking for the bits I required. I will post more on this later when I do some more research.

I used an outboard motor hand pump, connected to some 12mm fittings I cut out of a late model wrecked Hyundai. This priming job has fought all the way. There are 2 spots where the fuel system can be disconnected to insert a manual primer, one is 10mm and the second is 12mm. I had heaps of 3/8 fuel line disconnects available from a Series2 Disco and was led to believe these would be interchangeable, but they aren’t. I got some fittings from a Ford Escape but found these to be so difficult to use, basically a one use only fitting. Finally I found the Hyundai fittings and made up a priming pump.
In my case the entire fuel lines and filter were empty. I couldn’t get the system primed. I filled the fuel filter several times and still no joy. Finally I blocked the openings of the fuel tank filler and filler breathers with a plastic bag and pressurised the tank through the small breather with instant success.

http://img43.imageshack.us/img43/9443/dscn0609m.jpg (http://img43.imageshack.us/i/dscn0609m.jpg/)

http://img560.imageshack.us/img560/2749/dscn0613a.jpg (http://img560.imageshack.us/i/dscn0613a.jpg/)

Another decision – to use the original plastic inner guards or use galvanized steel inner guards? I have had these in my workshop for 3 or 4 days now and look at them often! I do have good reason to go back to the steel ones.

http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/8143/dscn0614t.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/dscn0614t.jpg/)

Erich

saiken

3rd December 2010, 08:08 PM

Mmmmm.... not sure why but if it was me I think I'd go the galvanized ones. less chance of something breaking them somehow.

also crazy priming setup :BigThumb:

Bundalene

3rd December 2010, 08:32 PM

I will make a better primer later, just now I had to get the job done. End of the day it only cost a bit of time and fuel as the guy at the wreckers gave me the bits.

As for the inner guards, the Puma ones are made of GRP (Glass re-inforced Plastic) and are very difficult to modify as not much will adhere to them. This is a similar material which Corvette guards (fenders) are made of.

I would like to lower the air cleaner by about 30mm which would mean cutting and re-shaping the inner guard.

At this stage I am only thinking ahead as I am not sure how much room I will have underneath with hoses etc. I will have to assemble the front end firsty and then see.

Erich

newhue

3rd December 2010, 11:04 PM

Hi Bundalene, big job you have there, but a job well done I must say. Thanks for your enthusiasm and keeping us all informed.

If you have the old puma guard hanging around, could I ask you to measure the size the aerial hole please. I'd like to replace my original aerial with a better one. But apparently the better one requires a 16mm hole, and many aerials holes are 22mm apparently.

thanks

Bundalene

4th December 2010, 03:27 PM

Bundalene

5th December 2010, 05:53 PM

I had a few hours spare today so I decided to re-install the dash and all the trim.

First, place the long trim section on place and work the center around the gear stick hub. This was a little difficult due to the additional sound deadening on the tunnel.

http://img577.imageshack.us/img577/4416/dscn0615.jpg (http://img577.imageshack.us/i/dscn0615.jpg/)

Next, check that all wiring is in the correct areas by double checking each individual plug
Next, connect the 4 speakers. This is easiest done by removing the speakers, connecting them and replacing them.

http://img602.imageshack.us/img602/1094/dscn0618.jpg (http://img602.imageshack.us/i/dscn0618.jpg/)

Install 4 screws along the center of the dash section – do not tighten any screws at this stage. These 4 are temporary locating screws and will be replaced later.

http://img688.imageshack.us/img688/1276/dscn0623b.jpg (http://img688.imageshack.us/i/dscn0623b.jpg/)

Next, install the 2 screws hidden in the center of the tunnel

http://img819.imageshack.us/img819/7641/dscn0626e0.jpg (http://img819.imageshack.us/i/dscn0626e0.jpg/)

Install the 6 screws along the lower section and the 4 up the outer edge near each door.

http://img255.imageshack.us/img255/2201/dscn0628a.jpg (http://img255.imageshack.us/i/dscn0628a.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Install the 3 screws along the windscreen
Next install the speedo, shroud and light switch, being careful with the imobiliser coil on the ignition switch.

http://img585.imageshack.us/img585/6674/dscn06430.jpg (http://img585.imageshack.us/i/dscn06430.jpg/)

Next, install the passenger storage compartment and grab handle

http://img3.imageshack.us/img3/4324/dscn0644ax.jpg (http://img3.imageshack.us/i/dscn0644ax.jpg/)

Install the A/C controller and lay all the cables into their correct locations

. http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/8017/dscn0653k.jpg (http://img811.imageshack.us/i/dscn0653k.jpg/)

Finally, plug in all the switches and re-install the dash center section.

http://img686.imageshack.us/img686/2520/dscn0654a0.jpg (http://img686.imageshack.us/i/dscn0654a0.jpg/)

I have a lot more pics if anyone wants more info on any of the above.

Erich

dmdigital

5th December 2010, 06:09 PM

Let me guess two fuel switches either side of the A/C switch are for :confused: ...
...and the SLS switch is for raising the rear air bags :eek:

dullbird

5th December 2010, 08:15 PM

couple of hours spare...hahahahahahah you have put the entire dash back that would of taken most people bloody days....:D

newhue

5th December 2010, 08:21 PM

Thanks Bundalene for the aerial measure.

You make me dizzy with how you just throw it back together.
LR have had the dash out of mine a couple times now, hopefully for the last time as well.
I found a spare screw on the floor under the mat, not even interested where it might have come from.

Bundalene

6th December 2010, 06:23 PM

Let me guess two fuel switches either side of the A/C switch are for :confused: ...
...and the SLS switch is for raising the rear air bags :eek:

Pretty close - I am toying with the idea of trying airbags sometime down the track, especially if I can score some from Hard Range.

I have added 4 switches, not connected yet. 2 are for sill fuel tank pumps, one for an air compressor and one rear work lights, a blank one yet to be labeled.

Series2 Disco light switches are the same physical size as the Puma and Defenders 2003 on switches and the smaller bezels are the same size as well.

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/9641/dscn0645a0.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/i/dscn0645a0.jpg/)

It is just a matter of popping off the required bezel and clipping it back onto a latching switch cutting off the locating guide, then soldering and heat shrinking the connections.

http://img80.imageshack.us/img80/3013/dscn0648s.jpg (http://img80.imageshack.us/i/dscn0648s.jpg/)

http://img809.imageshack.us/img809/5060/dscn0654a.jpg (http://img809.imageshack.us/i/dscn0654a.jpg/)

Erich

dmdigital

6th December 2010, 06:41 PM

Bundalene

6th December 2010, 07:27 PM

Where's the spot light switch go?

Also meant to ask, was the Puma pre-wired for heated seats and windscreen in the harness? The seats would have been two connectors down near the A/C switch. Just curious.

The spot lights have one of those small IPF type switches, which will be tucked up behind the steering wheel.

I didn't notice and additional wiring for heated seats and windscreen. There were no unused plugs, so I assume this Puma is not wired for this.

Erich

saiken

6th December 2010, 07:41 PM

man i wish there was fuel tank switches rotated 90 degrees..... but i love your use of the d2 switches... ill have to remember that :cool:

PaulP38a

8th December 2010, 11:45 PM

Pretty close - I am toying with the idea of trying airbags sometime down the track, especially if I can score some from Hard Range.

Consider it done Erich. We'd love to help you out with that project... and the sooner you get the Puma off the hoist, the sooner my "new" Black P38 Hard Rangie project car can spend some "quality time" up there :D

Cheers, Paul.

Bundalene

12th December 2010, 02:56 PM

Thanks for the offer Paul, I will play around with airbags later on, but at this stage I will need to have a vehicle which is as standard as possible.

I have done a lot of odds and ends in the last week with little to show. Things such as battery box wiring, hand brake install, gearbox wiring, ABS connections, brake lines, .......

I played around with the metal inner guard to try and make more access for the air cleaner opening but with little joy at this stage. I may have to alter the power steering lines to get an additional 20mm in height - a bit of expense for little gain.

Below are pics of the area with part of the guard and the inner guard temp bolted into position.

This pic shows the approx position of the air cleaner, with the A/C line and the fan shroud removed.

http://img64.imageshack.us/img64/3650/dscn0672a.jpg (http://img64.imageshack.us/i/dscn0672a.jpg/)

Here I am holding the lower bracket in it's approximate position. My current plan is to shorten the vertical section of the power steering line by about 20mm if possible, then cut out the inner guard, make a new insert, as long as I clear the shocky tower. The area is very crowded.

http://img697.imageshack.us/img697/9402/dscn0675a.jpg (http://img697.imageshack.us/i/dscn0675a.jpg/)

BTW the spanner to remove the Fan is the same as for the TD5 with a standard right hand thread. Put the spanner in position and hit it with a block of wood. The fan undoes every time

http://img829.imageshack.us/img829/9331/dscn0670a.jpg (http://img829.imageshack.us/i/dscn0670a.jpg/)

Erich

justinc

12th December 2010, 06:47 PM

Its actually the same part number Erich, the Td5 fan PBB5000340 is the same fan on the Puma.

JC

dmdigital

12th December 2010, 07:05 PM

... and I sold my fan spanners to Dale :BigCry:

TonyC

12th December 2010, 10:49 PM

Hi Justin,
I know it's off topic,
and petty,
and Ron's job,
but could you please give the Chinese a capital C.

Thanks

Tony

"...Hello children, This week, we're trying to split the atom, reconcile the chinese and the Americans, and build box girder bridges..."

Bundalene

19th December 2010, 03:27 PM

It has taken about 2 days to get the front end aligned, using new guards, had heaps of issues and a steep learning curve. I tried both the plastic and the metal inner guards. All came up OK in the end.

Removing the top of the air filter can be a PITA, with tight access. I have managed to gain an additional 30mm to remove the air cleaner top much easier than originally, though I have yet to seal the inner guard.

http://img59.imageshack.us/img59/6959/dscn0692y.jpg (http://img59.imageshack.us/i/dscn0692y.jpg/)

This entailed cutting the inner guard to drop the air cleaner down a bit.

http://img23.imageshack.us/img23/5307/dscn0687p.jpg (http://img23.imageshack.us/i/dscn0687p.jpg/)

……..and making new air cleaner mounting brackets and heaps more.

http://img804.imageshack.us/img804/2848/dscn0689k.jpg (http://img804.imageshack.us/i/dscn0689k.jpg/)

Erich

justinc

19th December 2010, 03:31 PM

Hi Justin,
I know it's off topic,
and petty,
and Ron's job,
but could you please give the Chinese a capital C.

Thanks

Tony

:eek: Sorry Tony, will rectify immediately:).
JC

dmdigital

19th December 2010, 06:48 PM

Bundalene

20th December 2010, 02:00 PM

Look what Santa brought. I ordered this on late Tuesday night from Peter Bell, a week out from Christmas - only 5 days delivery.

http://img97.imageshack.us/img97/4861/dscn0704yq.jpg (http://img97.imageshack.us/i/dscn0704yq.jpg/)

My original intercooler has a mount broken off in the accident.

Erich

Bundalene

20th December 2010, 02:04 PM

Erich, this will be interesting to see when it's finished.

How are you going to route the Intercooler hose? Also are you going to place some protection under the air box that protrudes through the guard?

I have filled in the inner guard - will post some pics later.

As for the intercooler hose, this still fits OK, but I plan to replace this with a mandrel bent pipe and flexible ends at a later stage.

Erich

TimNZ

20th December 2010, 02:37 PM

Look what Santa brought. I ordered this on late Tuesday night from Peter Bell, a week out from Christmas - only 5 days delivery.

My original intercooler has a mount broken off in the accident.

Erich

Mmmmmmm Shiny :cool: Might have to go and break a mount on my intercooler...........

dmdigital

20th December 2010, 06:33 PM

Erich, don't forget you need to cut off the tabs on the radiator that the original intercooler sits on.

eddie_tdi

26th December 2010, 06:59 AM

Hi Erich, any updates mate?

Bundalene

27th December 2010, 10:07 AM

Hi Erich, any updates mate?

We have our daughter and her husband from the N.T. staying with us for a couple of weeks and have been doing a lot of visiting etc. over Christmas.

I'm keen to get back to working on the Puma so hopefully can start again today or tomorrow.

Thanks for your interest.

Erich

Narangga

27th December 2010, 02:04 PM

We have our daughter and her husband from the N.T. staying with us for a couple of weeks and have been doing a lot of visiting etc. over Christmas.

I'm keen to get back to working on the Puma so hopefully can start again today or tomorrow.

Thanks for your interest.

Erich

Sounds like Santa's helpers from the north pole have not been very helpful! ;)

Bundalene

27th December 2010, 02:13 PM

Sounds like Santa's helpers from the north pole have not been very helpful! ;)

Maybe not the North Pole....but Santa's two helpers from North Australia are being VERY helpful:D

Bundalene

27th December 2010, 07:30 PM

I have been playing around with the air circuit between the snorkel and the aur filter box. I tried a number of different ideas, including a 4 inch line, which was just too large. I tried to buy some 3 inch just before Christmas but all which was available at the time was 3.5 inch which was difficult to adapt

The current plan is to use the hose joiner which will be screwed to the inside of the guard, wjth adapters on each end. This will be water tight. I will also replace the dump valve at the bottom of the air filter box

http://img521.imageshack.us/img521/7110/dscn07581.jpg (http://img521.imageshack.us/i/dscn07581.jpg/)

The hose joiner in the approximate position, yet to be welded and drilled. This will be a bit difficult to join to the hose.

http://img213.imageshack.us/img213/6190/dscn07621.jpg (http://img213.imageshack.us/i/dscn07621.jpg/)

I had to do a bit of machining in order to adapt the tube to the air filter box which is ouy of Alluminium. Also the only tube I had was some 3 inch stainless so another adapter was needed, ( out of a nylon type material)Both made out of off cuts.

http://img408.imageshack.us/img408/7702/dscn07561.jpg (http://img408.imageshack.us/i/dscn07561.jpg/)

I will also make and mount a plate to the inside of the guard for easy installation / removal of the snorkel - next job

Erich

dullbird

27th December 2010, 07:40 PM

you got that lathe in your shed?????

dmdigital

27th December 2010, 07:44 PM

Erich's got all kinds of things in that shed ;)

dullbird

27th December 2010, 08:01 PM

Erich's got all kinds of things in that shed ;)

Yes I know but I have never seen that in his shed amongst all the other goodies

Bundalene

30th December 2010, 03:26 PM

Finally bolted all the bits back onto the car, just like a big Meccano Set. All seems to fit OK with good lines. Some minor adjustment needed on the bonnet closer

I will strip all and send the new bits to a spray shop and have them painted in the new year (for the first time ever, I am having painting done else where)

http://img52.imageshack.us/img52/9329/dscn0777f.jpg (http://img52.imageshack.us/i/dscn0777f.jpg/)

http://img706.imageshack.us/img706/3417/dscn0776r.jpg (http://img706.imageshack.us/i/dscn0776r.jpg/)

I have used a part of a 1986 County and a part of a 1992 200TD1 Defender as well as a stack of new panels. The bonnet is temporary as I have a new one still in a box.

Erich

dullbird

30th December 2010, 09:09 PM

i really like the white bonnet and grill cant you leave it..:)

ROMAROVER

5th January 2011, 12:20 PM

hi Erich, the LR badge on the grille extension looks in good order brings back good memories
Have you got the rock catcher mesh for behind the grille? if fitted it may give current expanded mesh look as on disco/rr/freeloader...
hey your going great guns without my fantasising
happy new year
steve

Bundalene

6th January 2011, 07:02 AM

G'day Steve,
Nice to hear from you old friend, I have the mesh that came with the Puma which will finish up behind the lower sections.

Unfortunately the badge on the grille extension will disappear.

Hoping to get back into the rebuild in the next week - when Sharon & Alfred head back up north.

Happy New Year to you & Roma as well.

Cheers, Erich

87County

6th January 2011, 07:26 AM

i really like the white bonnet and grill cant you leave it..:) yeah - could call it panda :)

dullbird

6th January 2011, 07:52 AM

It almost looke like the Ice of the fire and ice limited adition :D

Bundalene

10th January 2011, 05:25 PM

Well, Sharon & Alfred flew out of Sydney this afternoon, heading for Cairns and then later tonight, to Gove.

Looks like they'll have some wet weather meeting them at Gove this evening and a muddy drive back to Gapuwiyak tomorrow morning.

Had a great Christmas & New Year with them and looking forward to catching up in the NT later this year.

Now back to the Puma:)

klappers

11th January 2011, 10:00 AM

amazing

Bundalene

12th January 2011, 05:16 PM

Bolted a lot of bits back onto the Defender. In the process I noticed a dust leak behind the speaker cover with poor sealing where the wires for the tail lights come through from underneath. This vehicle has done little dirt road driving and there was already heaps of dust in the area.

The photo is before I sealed the area

http://img138.imageshack.us/img138/2711/dscn07831.jpg (http://img138.imageshack.us/i/dscn07831.jpg/)

Another observation was the Puma Safari snorkel. The top section is now one complete moulded piece. This means that if you break the mesh section, which happens regularly it costs about $100 instead of $10 to replace.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img141.imageshack.us/i/dscn08831.jpg/)

Also completed the inner guard, with a cut-out for the snorkel hose and also made a bracket with riv nuts to allow for easy assembly of the snorkel. Hope to get the car to the paint shop early next week. I am tentatively booked in.

A bit hard to see, (the pic is taken from the inside of the guard) The aluminium bracket with the 4 snorkel riv nuts is attached with 2 counter sunk screws.

http://img835.imageshack.us/img835/4475/dscn08841.jpg (http://img835.imageshack.us/i/dscn08841.jpg/)

Erich

isuzurover

12th January 2011, 06:23 PM

Another observation was the Puma Safari snorkel. The top section is now one complete moulded piece. This means that if you break the mesh section, which happens regularly it costs about $100 instead of $10 to replace.

http://img141.imageshack.us/img141/1593/dscn08831.jpg (http://img141.imageshack.us/i/dscn08831.jpg/)

AFAIK Donaldson still make the old-style snorkel head. The last one I bought was $30 for a complete 3" head (including detachable mesh piece) from QLD diesel spares. Places like truckline should stock them as well.

EDIT:
Here is the QDS catalogue - Page 7 - P# H008149 for 3" head.
http://www.qds.com.au/downloads/PRODUCT_INFORMATION/air%20inlets.pdf

As it is a donaldson part, any filter suppliier who sells donaldson parts should be able to source the rams or replacement mesh bits.

aew849

13th January 2011, 04:44 PM

Bundalene,

The project, and its progress, has been simply sensational.

BZ

aew849
04 130 TD5 DCPU "Truck"
10 90 Puma "Lewis"

Bundalene

16th January 2011, 06:51 PM

I was re-assembling the guards and came across the breathers from diffs etc. I always had planned to bring all the breathers together to one point.

Our solution was to use a breather block as supplied by Hard Range (Paul and Andrew). We used all 5 inlets for:

Front Diff housing
Rear Diff housing
Transfer box
Fuel Breather (which I ran up to the front earlier)
Winch (presently coiled up behind the front left light for future use)
The gearbox breaths from the bellhousing section of the gearbox.

I mounted the block on top of the heater connections near the firewall. I figure this to be as dry and dust free as possible

http://img34.imageshack.us/img34/6510/dscn0919ef.jpg (http://img34.imageshack.us/i/dscn0919ef.jpg/)

The fuel tank breather was left at one end which allows easy removal for tank priming if required.

The breather lines come up from the chassis to the inner guard area and in behind the heater fan. This was quite simple at this stage with the guard removed

http://img524.imageshack.us/img524/9086/dscn09121.jpg (http://img524.imageshack.us/i/dscn09121.jpg/)

BYW this is the under side view of the outside air duct going from the guard top down to the fan. Older Defenders had a gap between the end of this duct and the fan itself. This allowed water to drain out, but also could breath fumes in if there was a problem.

In the Puma there is no gap and water is drained out through the 3 duck bill drains as per pic

http://img405.imageshack.us/img405/939/dscn09081.jpg (http://img405.imageshack.us/i/dscn09081.jpg/)

Erich

dullbird

16th January 2011, 07:08 PM

Erich where did you get the block from as I have always wanted to put these on my cars I have all my breathers on the disco looped in the engine bay...but importantly the pumas have not been extended and I would like to in this very manner

dmdigital

16th January 2011, 08:04 PM

So that's the breather block Andy was talking about. Looks very good Erich. Tell Andy I'll be in touch.

Bundalene

16th January 2011, 08:42 PM

Erich where did you get the block from as I have always wanted to put these on my cars

Hi Lou

Someone carelessly left one on my work bench, so I used it. :D:D

Seriously though, They are listed with Hard Range as a P38 part. The blocks are CNC machined and all fittings are top notch.

P38 Full Breather Kit | Hard Range Australia (http://hardrange.com/node/92)

Give Andrew a call,

Erich

(for those on the Forum who don't know, Andrew is our son and he and Paul manage Hard Range)

Landy Smurf

16th January 2011, 09:02 PM

great work budalene i am absolutely loving this project of yours

Pedro_The_Swift

17th January 2011, 07:19 AM

so with the breathers,,
I gather they all still run downhill?

Bundalene

17th January 2011, 08:26 AM

isuzurover

17th January 2011, 02:37 PM

They do run downhill. I removed the "U" section on the end of the hoses before extending them.

The way I figure it, If I get water to this point of the firewall for any length of time, I would be checking / changing the oils anyhow.

I have had bow waves up the the wipers plenty of times, but I think this area under the bonnet will be a somewhat air locked for short water crossings. It is during deep water crossings that diffs etc cool rapidly and suck in air.

Any other suggestions would be most welcome.

This is some generic info on the breathers used.

http://www.fabco-air.com/pdf/Sec_14.pdf

Erich

I ran my breathers to the same point, however I looped the hose around a few times before terminating them. In the extremely unlikely event that water gets that high, it should create an air lock - as the diff temperature and pressure should stabilise quickly once you enter the water - so unless you drive straight into water over the bonnet, all should be OK.

On another landie I ran the breathers to the rear and installed them inside the rear body capping - roughly above the rear wheel. I was initially concerned about the inside smelling of oil, but never noticed an oil smell.

Erich - on a different note, how easy do you think it would be to install a puma dash and front seats in an earlier 110?

dullbird

17th January 2011, 05:30 PM

mmmmmmmmmm I'm sure someone on here has done that Maybe not an early early one but I'm sure someone has done it to either a tdi or a td5..he bought a puma recker for the purpose of ripping out the dash

Bundalene

17th January 2011, 07:17 PM

Erich - on a different note, how easy do you think it would be to install a puma dash and front seats in an earlier 110?

The ease or difficulty all depends where you start and where you finish. The physical space is the same - door to door and windscreen area, but that is where it stops.

Everything from the wipers, A/C, A/C controls, ..... are designed as an integral unit and slot in behind the dash. Fuses are in a different position as well.

Also the center panel comes out a fair way and I think this may interfere with the gear stick.

Then there are the controls and indication to integrate as well.

No doubt anything can be overcome but it would be a fair sort of a project.

As for the seats, I will run a tape over them and compare but I suspect these will interchange with earlier ones.

Erich

dullbird

17th January 2011, 07:22 PM

erich in regards to the intercooler hose and what your doing..are you going to do it yourself or get someone to bend it up for you?

as If you get someone to bend it up for you I would like to ask if you would consider getting me one too. then I can put it on with some silicone straights

we have noticed that the car is lagging quite a lot and often slows in 4th up not so large hills....I wonder whether the hose is getting a little tired (shouldn't be I guess but car does have 85tho on it

Bundalene

17th January 2011, 08:20 PM

Funny you should mention this. If time allows I was going down to a muffler place tomorrow with the 2 intercooler hoses, while the fan shroud is still out

I am a bit nervous though, getting the hoses copied from samples and not from the actual end points in the vehicle. There is so little clearance especially on the right side between the air cleaner and the steering shaft etc etc.

If they have an NC mandrel bender I will get them to take note of the measurements.

Erich

TonyC

17th January 2011, 08:46 PM

Erich - on a different note, how easy do you think it would be to install a puma dash and front seats in an earlier 110?

Have a look here, post 69 and 70. I don't know were Gaz has got to with it though.

Tony

isuzurover

17th January 2011, 11:30 PM

Have a look here, post 69 and 70. I don't know were Gaz has got to with it though.

Tony

Where?

Post 69 in this thread is by Erich.

TonyC

18th January 2011, 08:46 AM

Where?

Post 69 in this thread is by Erich.

Doh, put in the link Tony!

Try here

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/73516-duramax-powered-defender.html

And more specifically here

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/73516-duramax-powered-defender-7.html#post1247892

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/projects-tutorials/73516-duramax-powered-defender-7.html#post1247913

Tony

Bundalene

18th January 2011, 05:59 PM

Spent a few hours today and basically finished the engine assembly, except waiting for the turbo hoses. All seems to fit OK. I replaced the hose from the water fill bottle to the radiator. These are prone to break at the most unexpected time.

http://img17.imageshack.us/img17/3223/dscn0939ia.jpg (http://img17.imageshack.us/i/dscn0939ia.jpg/)

I could only get the hose in red, so this will have to do. I tucked this in under the lip of the guard to keep it out of the way. At corners, it is inside some old coolant hose for mechanical protection.

http://img140.imageshack.us/img140/4344/dscn0936ma.jpg (http://img140.imageshack.us/i/dscn0936ma.jpg/)

Also installed the inlet air for the last time I hope. I exhaust wrapped the section which passes the exhaust area as per pic below

http://img5.imageshack.us/img5/1774/dscn0930h.jpg (http://img5.imageshack.us/i/dscn0930h.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Erich

Bundalene

20th January 2011, 06:12 PM

Got the intercooler lines done. I was a bit disappointed as I was hoping that they would be mandrel bent out of one piece. I was told that the bends are too tight and close to get correct with their bender.

http://img529.imageshack.us/img529/2569/dscn09411.jpg (http://img529.imageshack.us/i/dscn09411.jpg/)

The upside is that they fit like a glove - absolutely spot on. These clamps supplied are hell expensive but work very well. The lot cost about as much as a pair of replacement silicon hoses.

http://img813.imageshack.us/img813/5743/dscn09441.jpg (http://img813.imageshack.us/i/dscn09441.jpg/)

http://img89.imageshack.us/img89/4728/dscn09481.jpg (http://img89.imageshack.us/i/dscn09481.jpg/)

I have removed them again and painted the tubes. I will wrap the right sided one with exhaust wrap.

Anyone contemplating to have these made, be sure to clean out and swarf from the inside of these before fitting.

When I have time (Ha Ha) I will see if I can find a manufacturer who can make these in one piece - I have a few companies in mind.

Erich

dmdigital

20th January 2011, 07:42 PM

Even with the joins they will make a huge difference over the OEM rubber hoses. The Samco XDB hoses have a grooved section for the clamps which makes it easier to fit. Especially the driver's side to intercooler.

Bundalene

24th January 2011, 08:42 PM

Yahoo, went for a drive in the Puma today. It started first kick. We are still waiting to get into the paint shop though.

A little more info on the turbo hoses. I left the hot side uninsulated and insulated the left side hose as per pic below. I used the same insullation as used in the cab heat proofing and wrapped the lot with A/C aluminium tape. Doesn't look that pretty but it is quite practicable.

http://img18.imageshack.us/img18/1869/dscn0963n.jpg (http://img18.imageshack.us/i/dscn0963n.jpg/)

http://img695.imageshack.us/img695/4854/dscn0964kv.jpg (http://img695.imageshack.us/i/dscn0964kv.jpg/)

The hose is difficult to see in amongst everything else.

http://img196.imageshack.us/img196/6186/dscn0971d.jpg (http://img196.imageshack.us/i/dscn0971d.jpg/)

As for priming the fuel, I couldn't get those suction bellows type of devices to work. I have tried a couple of different versions.

The best solution I found was to slightly pressurise the fuel tank - a few PSI is all that is required. Be sure to have an open end before doing this though.

Here is how I primed the fuel system, after the priming pump didn't work

Step 1 Disconnect the fuel line which is at the tip of the screwdriver in the pic

http://img11.imageshack.us/img11/8394/dscn0966sz.jpg (http://img11.imageshack.us/i/dscn0966sz.jpg/)

Step 2 Put fuel line into a glass jar. (pic taken after the process was completed)

http://img337.imageshack.us/img337/561/dscn0968c.jpg (http://img337.imageshack.us/i/dscn0968c.jpg/)

Step 3 Air into the fuel tank. In my case this is a sim.le process as I have the breather close by.

http://img222.imageshack.us/img222/8986/dscn0970d.jpg (http://img222.imageshack.us/i/dscn0970d.jpg/)

Step 4 Replace the fuel line

Erich

newhue

24th January 2011, 09:11 PM

Well done mate, to start first kick after what you have done, must be a great feeling. Congrates

Bundalene

25th January 2011, 07:56 AM

Erich - on a different note, how easy do you think it would be to install a puma dash and front seats in an earlier 110?

I forgot to answer this. I have just measured the seats on our TD5 Defender and the rail hole positions appear to be the same - 445mm (rough measurement with a tape measure) between centers in either direction. Also the sliders and rails look the same.

Erich

Bundalene

2nd February 2011, 06:31 PM

We had the Puma booked in for painting today, but the paint shop put it off due to the heat wave going through Sydney presently. They will give us a call in a few days when it cools down a bit. The Kat is also insulated. I may go a bit further back, but ran out of material.

On another note, there is a bit of discussion on another thread about cab temperature on the 110. Below is a pic I took this evening with the car on the hoist, showing the heat insulation we installed. The vertical face of the firewall is also insulated.

https://www.aulro.com/afvb/ (http://img827.imageshack.us/i/dscn1088r.jpg/)

Uploaded with ImageShack.us (http://imageshack.us)

Erich

Rimmer

2nd February 2011, 06:57 PM

This is going to be one smick Defender!

If only thats how they came from the factory.:p

Geeze what am I thinking!:o No thats not right at all, just wouldn't be a Landy to come ("Bundalened") from factory.;)

Erich, spoke to Paul the other day, re: the breather block you installed.

I'd like to do the same and asked Paul on a price etc. He wasn't sure how compatible it was on the Defender.

Could you please give me the heads up on whether there is any thing out of the ordinary to install. Or is it a straight bolt in, run lines etc.

I can then ask the boys to send one to me.

Thanks,
Tod.

PaulP38a

2nd February 2011, 07:25 PM

Hi Tod, Andy called me from Mt Isa a couple of days ago and he didn't think there were any changes to the breather kit to suit the Defender.

Would be great if Erich can confirm from his experience.

Cheers, Paul.

dullbird

2nd February 2011, 08:23 PM

Is Andy still at Mt Isa? Ihope he and family will be OK they reckon that storm front could reach there although by that point it should be a hell of a lot weaker

Bundalene

2nd February 2011, 08:49 PM

This is going to be one smick Defender!

Erich, spoke to Paul the other day, re: the breather block you installed.

Could you please give me the heads up on whether there is any thing out of the ordinary to install. Or is it a straight bolt in, run lines etc.

I can then ask the boys to send one to me.

Thanks,
Tod.

The block used on the P38 is suitable for the TD5 Defender and Puma and also for the TDi Defenders except for the fuel breather (I think this is done through the fuel cap on the TDi's)

It is as simple as finding the individual breathers, joining them with the supplied joining fittings and running them to the new breather block, all snap press fittings.

Some Defenders have the fuel tank breather on the rear left TD5's and earlier Pumas and later Pumas are on the rear right.

Gearbox and transfer box breathers are generally in the engine bay area, as is the front diff. The Puma has no external gearbox breather.

The rear diff breather on the Defender runs up the rear left trailing arm and into the chassis. On some later Pumas this goes into the engine bay area

As for running the lines, firmly cable tie them in a safe area, away from any heat source. Along thetop of the chassis rail if there is room seems to work. If you chose, you can cut the 'U' bend off the end of the existing breather before joining.

I find it good practice to follow the breather to the source and check for damage. It is often, especially on older vehicles, at least one is damaged somewhere along the length either by rubbing through or rock / stick damage.

Erich

Bundalene

2nd February 2011, 09:23 PM

Is Andy still at Mt Isa? Ihope he and family will be OK they reckon that storm front could reach there although by that point it should be a hell of a lot weaker

Hi Lou, they are in Mataranka as we speak. They went to the thermal pools and were the only ones there.

Erich

PaulP38a

2nd February 2011, 10:20 PM

Hi Lou, they are in Mataranka as we speak. They went to the thermal pools and were the only ones there.

Erich

That's only 100Km or so from Tindall. We've got a Hard Range customer at the RAAF base having some issues with his P38... I'm sure Gloria and the kids would love to hang around while Andy does a "special delivery" ;)

Cheers, Paul.

Rimmer

3rd February 2011, 05:56 AM

Thanks, Erich and Paul.

Will get you to throw one in with the nanocom please Paul.

Cheers,
Tod.

Bundalene

5th February 2011, 12:35 PM

Today is our 5th day in a row when the temperatures are over 39 degrees C. way too hot to paint. Lucky I am in no rush to have the Puma completed, although it can be a bit frustrating as I have been waiting for a month now.

I have been planning electrical extras including working out where and how to install them in an orderly way. I will use a fuse box out of a Series1 Disco and mount this under the wing guard cover. I did the same with our silver Defender and this seems to be a good spot for it.

http://img687.imageshack.us/img687/8824/dscn1112u.jpg (http://img687.imageshack.us/i/dscn1112u.jpg/)

I have made a bracket which holds the fuse box and has 5 slots for the relays – all Land Rover parts.

http://img840.imageshack.us/img840/6628/dscn1119h.jpg (http://img840.imageshack.us/i/dscn1119h.jpg/)

http://img831.imageshack.us/img831/5912/dscn1122y.jpg (http://img831.imageshack.us/i/dscn1122y.jpg/)

This is the plan, although some items will be installed sooner than later

Battery supply

1 Fridge outlet 20 amp fuse, 6 sq mm cable, Fuse 4
2 Air Compressor 30 amp fuse, 6 sq mm cable, Fuse 3
3 HF Radio 40 Amp fuse, 10 sq mm cable, Fuse 2
4 Driving lights (HID 55watt) 30 Amp fuse, 6 sq mm cable, Fuse 8
5 HID headlights 30 Amp fuse, 6 sq mm cable, Fuse 7
6 Rear work lights (30 watt LED) 20 amps fuse, 2.5 sq mm cable, Fuse 9
7 Rear outlet (for camp lights) same as previous, 6 sq mm cable, Fuse 9

Ignition on supply

1 UHF Radio 10 amp fuse, 1.5 sq mm cable, Fuse 12
2 Right sub tank fuel pump 10 amp fuse, 1.5 sq mm cable, Fuse 5
3 Left sub tank fuel transfer 10 amp fuse, 1.5 sq mm cable, Fuse 6
4 Volt meter 10 amp fuse, 2.5 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
5 EGT gauge 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
6 Boost gauge 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
7 Water in fuel alarm 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
8 Low level water alarm 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
9 Cruise Control 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
10 Winch remote control 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
11 Diff lock controls 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
12 HID and Drive light relay controls 10 amps .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 10
13 Additional charging outlets 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11
14 Auto dimming mirror 10 amp fuse, .75 sq mm cable, Fuse 11

This is the intended layout of the fuse box. Connections shown are internal as per Series1 Disco and difficult to alter. I am installing a relay which will energise when the ignition is turned on, so that certain items will be switched off when the ignition is turned off – such as the UHF radio.

http://img135.imageshack.us/img135/744/pumaps1.jpg (http://img135.imageshack.us/i/pumaps1.jpg/)

This is a rough layout of the relay wiring.

http://img830.imageshack.us/img830/2585/pumaps2.jpg (http://img830.imageshack.us/i/pumaps2.jpg/)

oops, I left out a dash switch in the left fuel tank relay drawing.

The Lights HID relay is only to turn off the lights when the ignition is turned off.

It would be nice to make one wiring loom, incorporating most of these items.

Erich

one_iota

5th February 2011, 01:11 PM

Hi Erich,

A bit warm eh. Our weather station is showing 42.5 here.

I mounted the traxide relays and fuses in that area. I don't know whether this is feasible: have you considered using quarter turn screws on the panel to make access to the fuses easier?

Can I ask where you got the flexible duct for the snorkel installation from? (I'm hatching a plan with regard to the seat box heat problem)

Bundalene

5th February 2011, 07:12 PM

Hi Mahn,

The company where I buy all such items, fuel line, coolant hoses, clamps, belts etc is:

RP Wallis Wholesale
Unit 2 158 Newton Road
Wetherill Park NSW
(02)97565111

They are quite handy for us - just up the road.

I don't have a part number of the tube, as I had several attempts at this and kept swapping offcuts they had for different sizes. From memory it wasn't that cheap though - around $50 per meter. It is possibly a "GATES" product.

There is a range of different sizes in the hose I used with steps of about 1/4 inch. This product is wirewound high temperature oil resistant flexible (within reason) duct. They sell all sorts of other different hoses and ducts.

If you have a size in mind I can get some price and availability as I have to go there this coming week.

Another company dealing in such items but IMHO more expensive is "Purple Pig"

Below is a listing from their catalogue.

Valves, Hoses & Couplings (http://www.purplepig.com.au/?gclid=CJT7hpXV8KYCFUaApAodtUCoFg)

Erich