Incorrectly fitted D3 Oil Filter

[rdenyer]

Looking for advise please.
Approx 5000 km ago I had my 2005 D3 diesel serviced before setting off to Innaminka and Coopers Creek.
All ran perfectly, up until about a month ago - the engine started to sound really rough when not under load. e.g. on a down slope with your foot off the accelerator. Under acceleration it did not sound too much different.
Checked Oil and it was at the right level and not too dirty.
Last weekend notice that the oil light was taking longer to go out on startup.

Decided to change the oil and filter.

When I removed the Oil Filter I noticed that "dimple" on the bottom had been forced up and the filter had been deformed.

I am assuming that it had not been fitted correctly at the last service.

My question is - has the incorrectly fitted filter been doing any good or have I been running the last 5000 km, without a correctly fitted and working filter.

And finally what damage do you think has been done ?

[d3viate]

If you go to a Caterpillar or Komatsu dealer and get an oil sample bottle, or better still get them to take the sample as there is a certain procedure to follow in taking samples, and get them to analyse it.
It will tell you exactly what has happened, what is wearing, and how bad.
You cannot just drain the oil and put some in the sample bottle as the sample has to come from the suspended oil at operating temp via a suction tube and the suction gun the dealer or a Diesel fitter will have.
The oil when draining will show elevated levels always as the heavy metals and sludge collects on the bottom of the pan.
The sample must be taken with a clean tube which comes with the sample bottle. Never use a dirty rag either when wiping dipstick, always a clean one.
The sample bottle and testing is quite cheap too for what information you will get back. Was $50 odd bucks a couple of years ago.
If you need any help reading the report or other questions PM me.
Hope this helps.

[Nomad9]

Hi Rdenyer,
I'm with d3viatate, I get my oil sampled after every 10k, I use Detecta which is another brand of oil analysis. I used to use the platic tube and the suction bottle I nearly lost the tube in the dipstick hole, my fault not the tubes obviously, I've now fitted one of those Fumoto valves and cut a small access port in the sump bash plate to give quick access. I always take the sample after the engine has been running, never from cold for the reasons mentioned above. You are looking at the wear metals and the cleanliness readings. The company you use will I suspect give you a basic explanation, Detecta has a red green and orange traffic light system for a quick indication.
Additional noises, longer time to build up oil pressure not usually the best signs, when the guy changed the oil did he put the right grade oil in? What brand? Synthetic, semi synthetic or mineral oil could be a combination.
Best thing would be fit a new filter correctly, put a reputable brand of oil in the correct weight and go from there. Hope everything is OK.

[rdenyer]

Thanks for the information.
I have changed the oil and filter and filled up with Penrite HPR 5-W40, (Semi-Synthetic) oil pressure light goes out straight away and engine sounds better.

Lets say I won't be going back to the that workshop again.

Regards,
Richard

[Tote]

D3 spec for oil is fully synthetic, Castrol do a 5w30 and and an 0w40 Landrover changed their recommendation for the 2.7 v6 in around 2008. I would not be running a semi synthetic as LR have been using full synthetics since the TD5.

Regards,
Tote

[Bushwanderer]

I agree with Tote.

Where did you get the idea that a semi-synth. 5W-40 oil was suitable. :eek:

Nevertheless, keep posting so that others know to not buy your Disco down the track. :D

[rdenyer]

OK guys. nothing like making a newby feel really welcome - Tote I can see back in 2007 you were looking for recommendations on what oil to use.

I have not fully understood the difference semi- and full synthetic, and I know the Castrol ad said "Oils ain't Oils"

Guess I won't leave this lot in in for too long :(

[Nomad9]

Hi rdenyer,
Look at the oil you have in now as a flushing oil more than a permanent fixture. I use Royal Purple fully synthetic 5W-30. Engine is pristine inside and sound bootiful. Wait until you get your head around a change of oil in the gearbox, make sure you get the right oil here, it's about $500 for twenty litres if you are lucky, good thing is it only has to be changed every 95 to 120 thousand klms.
By the way welcome to the forum, despite maybe feeling a bit attacked at the onset you have now joined a rather elite group of people, never short of a nice word or some useful advice .

[Tote]

Yep, welcome aboard, sorry if I came across a bit abrupt. When I first got the D3 it was an uphill battle to find anything to put in the sump. There are now more oils around that meet the spec. As I said LR changed specification around when I got my truck.

Drop the oil you have in it now and put some horribly expensive stuff in and you should be right.:)
This forum is a wealth of information and well worth a browse.

Regards,
Tote

[rdenyer]

Thanks guys appreciate be pointed in the right direction

[NomadicD3]

Hi Rdenyer,
From 1 newbie to another welcome to the forum mate. I just had a 100k service done on my D3 and , without asking, the service company added Morley's oil stabiliser to the exorbiantly priced fully synthetic engine oil. They absolutely swear by the stuff!!! Now personally i'm not sure but maybe a few other can throw in a few thoughts as to the viability of using it, seems redundant. All i know is that it's there now and staying LOL. Just a thought it maybe worth considering??
cheers mate

[Nomad9]

Ni NomadicD3,
Personally if you have a high quality fully synthetic oil of the right weight you don't need any additional additives. Can't think of anything more constructive to say, maybe a 1980's vehicle with a truck load of klms and you're looking to quieten things down for the sale, depending on the person you are you might consider this approach.

[NomadicD3]

hey there 9, Yeah i have much the same opinion as to additives with the oils these days being so good. Was just thinking maybe someone may have been using the product and has had some sort of amazing result to share:D

[Neil P]

Morley's is another motoring urban myth . Low visc synthetics
and high tol engines don't require additives . I remember many
people who added Morley's back in the eighties to improve upper
engine lubrication ; those engines lasted no longer than anything
else at the time........... Keeping oil temp down is more important.
One additive ( fuel , not oil here ) that does work is Fuel Doctors.
Makes a big difference to diesel engines with low pressure pump
systems ie. tractors.