CLUTCH FORK PROBLEMS

[george]

Hey guys,
whilst driving the other day in my 2000 freelander i went to gear down for a turn but couldnt get it into gear, so i went to release the clutch and try again but noticed the clutch didnt return to its position. i had lost all clutch movement and it remained pushed right in. the clutch would only move if i moved it myself.

took it to the mechanics and they said that the slave cylinder was gone so needed replacing. they also said my clutch fork had snapped.

mechanic said the fork is made of cast iron so cant be welded and that this part is no longer produced. also no one stocks this particular part anymore. does this sound right??? he wants to charge me for a whole new transmission from the wreckers to get this clutch fork.

does all of this sound viable??? can anyone help me out with the part or know where one can get a new clutch fork for a 2000 model 4cylinder manual freelander???

any help would be much appreciated

[101RRS]

I think you need a new mechanic.

For starters you cannot just replace the slave cylinder as the master cylinder, pipe, and slave cylinder is all one item - basically plastic. So I do not think your mechanic knows about Freelanders.

As far as the fork goes - the usual problem is the bracket that holds the slave cylinder goes and can cause symptoms as you describe - I have waiting to go into my car - was about $40 including $12 for delivery.

Assuming there is a fork problem - I would try TR Spares in Lonsdale SA - they should be able to provide a second hand one.

I would take your car to a more knowledgeable mechanic.

Garry

[woko]

Ring British Motor imports. The part number UTB100140L. Would be very suprized if they dont have one in stock.

[Carl Gilmore]

Same clutch pedal symptoms happened to me 3 months ago, ended up the thrust bearing had fused it self to the slider, fork was ok, bits of the trust bearing ended up going thru the clutch plates. nothing wrong with the master or slave cylinders

Cost me a flywheel grind and a new clutch, not a bad diy, but you will need help.

Have you had a look at the fork, or was the mechanic simply guessing?

[MajorNeb]

Same clutch pedal symptoms happened to me 3 months ago, ended up the thrust bearing had fused it self to the slider, fork was ok, bits of the trust bearing ended up going thru the clutch plates. nothing wrong with the master or slave cylinders

Cost me a flywheel grind and a new clutch, not a bad diy, but you will need help.

Have you had a look at the fork, or was the mechanic simply guessing?

Hi all, I am trying to help my son in law with his freelander. I am only used to working on Series Landy's so this is all a bit new to me.

His 1.8 Freelander has the same clutch pedal symptons as described above but I am unsure where to actually start the process of elimination. When the problem first occurred it rolled into the nearest mechanic and he said it was the clutch gone, but I am not convinced. Where do I inspect the master/slave brackets. Is there anything else to check BEFORE taking it to another mechanic or taking it apart myself. I have done a few clutches in different cars and rebuilt a series 2a gearbox myself, but not sure if should tackle this.

Just trying to help the family, as I am in Aberdeen Scotland and on holidays, but the family are struggling a bit and the car is missed terrible. Bit sitting there for a while so I would like to help a bit while I am here.

Cheers,

Nathanial

ANybody that can help thankyou in advance.

[aikendrum105]

Hi Nathanial,

Our freeloader had a cracked clutch slave bracket when we bought it, Cleverly I didn't take any pictures when I took the system apart, welded the bracket and refitted.

I did find a couple of images here which might help you though: Freelander Owner: Clutch Master & Slave Assembly Replacement (http://freelanderowner.blogspot.com/2009/04/clutch-master-slave-assembly.html)

It's easier to see the bracket etc by removing the battery and some other bits and bobs.

The master, piping and slave are sold as a single, non serviceable unit. Easy to disconnect the master from the pedal, and the slave from the bracket on the bellhousing - fiddly to feed the pipework around the engine bay...

If the slave has ejected the actuation rod and all it's fluid (and sat that way for a while) you might be better off buying a new replacement unit as a whole, however when I did ours, I did manage to drain the unit, flush and refill with new brake fluid - so it can be done (still working find after 2 years... ) If it wasn't my car, I would probably fit a new one.

Good luck !

Cheers,

Scott.