attaching to engine stand

[dreamin']

Does anyone have pictures showing how a 2L engine mounts on an engine stand, and the process of getting it there?

From what I can work out, I need to separate engine from bellhousing on the gearbox side of the flywheel surround, remove engine, remove flywheel and surround from the engine, then attach the engine stand to something - what?

Haven't done this before and planning to have a go tomorrow - any tips appreciated.

Cheers

D

[101RRS]

Like this

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/IMG_00291.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/IMG_00281.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/IMG_00271.jpg

http://i42.photobucket.com/albums/e334/gazzz21/IMG_00301.jpg

It bolts to the adapter plate holes in the rear of the block. Flywheel and adapter ring is removed.

Garry

[dreamin']

Thanks Garry - brilliant pics - tell the whole story

Cheers

D

[chazza]

I used this method because I was scared that the mass of the engine would break the stand if i bolted it to the flywheel end.

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u171/sprawson/Enginestand.jpg

The other advantage of side mounting, is that I could install the flywheel and set the cam shaft timing with the engine on the stand,

Cheers Charlie

[dreamin']

Thanks Charlie - I was wondering about that.

The Practical Classics book shows them marking timing gears with the flywheel on its mark before removing the flywheel, to set static timing.

My engine runs OK - no obvious mechanical problems, but every gasket and seal visible from the outside looks dodgy and leaks. I have bought the appropriate gasket sets and my plan is to dismantle only as far as needed to replace them, and deal with any other problems I find along the way.

At what point do I need to be worried about static timing? Is it affected when I remove the flywheel, or head, or only if I get into a more serious rebuild?

Thanks again for the pics.

D

[chazza]

At what point do I need to be worried about static timing? Is it affected when I remove the flywheel, or head, or only if I get into a more serious rebuild?

D

Removing the flywheel will not affect the timing as it is dowelled and can only be fitted in one position. Similarly removing the head will not affect the timing as the distributor does not need to be removed; however; if it is rotated at all, its position should be marked along with the position of the plug leads etc.

Removing the timing chain will upset the valve-timing and it will need to be re-timed using a dial-indicator.

It might be a good idea to use an engine flush such as this one Cost Effective Maintenance - Products (http://www.costeffective.com.au/products_page.php) before changing all of the gaskets, as the motor is bound to be sludged to some degree as the oil is only filtered using the by-pass system.

I fitted a rare-earth magnet to the sump plug on mine as well, to help keep everything in good order,

Cheers Charlie

[dreamin']

Thanks again, Charlie

I gave it a good flush with one of these products before starting the strip-down. Also used a flushing treatment for the cooling system, which came out like soup so may have more to do there - especially as I couldn't get any cooling water out of the drain tap on the block - just the rad.

Cheers

D