Removing Starter Dog

[drifter]

Hi

As some of you may have read, I have the engine on an engine stand an am about to start stripping it down for a rebuild.

Question #1: How do you stop the crankshaft turning so you can remove the starter dog?

Question #2: In case I am tightening it, which way would I expect it to go? i.e. normal thread or reverse thread?

Thanks in advance.

John

[Dinty]

G'day All, It's a right handed thread, so anti-clockwise will unscrew it, if you have a rattle gun, turn up the air pressure it will come loose, also bear in mind that it also could have loctite or something similar that had been applied to the thread, then it will require a little heat and it will come loose with either a rattle gun or a large socket on a bar, you may need an assistant, to either wedge with a screwdriver (the flywheel ring gear) or anything to stop the crankshaft from turning without causing any damage to C/shaft hope thats of some help cheers Dennis
ps it probably has a locktab on the starter dog so check that 1st,,.

[Blknight.aus]

wind a cylinder to just past TDC onto the power stroke, remove the spark plug, fill with oil re-insert the spark plug and turn the nut backwards.

make a flat plate that bolts up to the clutch mounting bolts and to a gearbox bell housing bolt

or use the rattle gun like most other people.

look at the shape of the Dog, its designed so that turning the crankshaft when its engaged to the dog will turn the engine the correct way and it will throw the crank handle out if the engine starts.

[drifter]

Thanks for the replies.

I was just coming back in here to say I have found a way to do it on another forum and it worked beautifully - so I'll post that method here, too, so others may find an answer in a search.

Spray WD40 or similar around the socket to pulley area and let it soak a bit.
Put a breaker bar on the socket (I used a 1 & 11/16" 3/4" drive socket with a 14" bar)
Rotate the engine clockwise until the bar is pointing up (or just put the socket on with the bar pointing up)
Get your favourite 5lb club hammer
Put it in your right hand and hold the socket with your left hand
Smite the breaker bar mightily (several times) with the hammer in a manner that attempts to rotate the engine CCW.

5 healthy smacks and off it came!

(I had thought of using the rattle gun and I do have a 1/2" to 3/4" adaptor - but my rattle gun isn't very powerful...)

[drifter]

I was expecting to find a locktab - but there wasn't one.

[101RRS]

my rattle gun isn't very powerful...)

Oh Santa - you are leaving yourself open with that one :D

[drifter]

Oh Santa - you are leaving yourself open with that one :D

I guess I should have said my air compressor at max can only deliver 120psi and, at that, the rattle gun will barely get the wheel nuts off. :)

[Blknight.aus]

your air fittings are too restrictive and you may also be plumbed in post pressure regulator in which case it doesnt matter whats in the tank you will only ever get regulated line pressure.

try draining the tank and t piecing before the regulator so you have a regulated line and a "flatout" line.

[drifter]

Thanks Dave

It has 2 outlets, one regulated and one unregulated.

I suspect the problem is that it is one of those Bunnings/MagnetMart units. The gauges redline at 120psi and the pump cuts out when that pressure is reached.

The rattle gun came from the same source.

probably enough said about my foray into air-driven tools! :D

I also have an air-wrench that I got with it and it did a great job on all the nuts on the seat box - I had that sucker out in no time :BigThumb:

[drifter]

Looking down from above, the regulated line is on the left:

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322073.jpg

Looking towards the front, again the regulated line is on the left. That hose is just for doing 'stuff' - I usually have a bigger one on when using the spray gun or rattle gun.

http://kiwi-in-oz.com/pictures/photos/800/1D322074.jpg

[Blknight.aus]

I suggest loosing the ball valve between the unregulated output and the nitto, they are quite restrictive as well as turfing the plastic line and getting some proper 1/2inch 150+psi rated hose with the wide bore nitto fittings.

I cant tell the size of your compressor but if its a sub 2hp then its going to be a bit of a wait between shots on the gun...

you can also pull apart the on/off valve and have a fiddle with the spring so that it comes on earlier (mine kicks in at 110psi and out at 120 something)

[drifter]

I suggest loosing the ball valve between the unregulated output and the nitto, they are quite restrictive as well as turfing the plastic line and getting some proper 1/2inch 150+psi rated hose with the wide bore nitto fittings.

I cant tell the size of your compressor but if its a sub 2hp then its going to be a bit of a wait between shots on the gun...

you can also pull apart the on/off valve and have a fiddle with the spring so that it comes on earlier (mine kicks in at 110psi and out at 120 something)

I'll definitely look into that (losing the ball valve) and, when doing anything heavy, I do use a 1/2" hose (I have 2 of them - one in the Disco for the ARB compressor for those times when I air-down and want to air-up again and one in the garage).

It's a 2hp job - not too bad with the spray gun - so far, anyway. The seat box, floor panels and grill surround came up pretty well. It will be a slow job when I do the tub and guards :D

I made a compressor once using an old CNG tank that came out of a car (yes, CNG - it was in NZ) and a single cylinder compressor off a large boat motor - it was slow getting to 250 pounds - but stayed there pretty well ;) Big capacity tank, too. Worked well. It now runs the air supply for a dental centre in the far north of NZ.