So what do you think??

[JayBoRover]

So, hiding there in the back of a farm implement shed, I met my first Series 1 Land Rover.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070024.jpg

30 years of dust set the mood ... and colour. The SWB ute was bought in 1978 and then parked in the shed in 1980, so it's pretty much spent half it's life in the shed with the tractors!
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070031.jpg

The rust below the windscreen is all light surface rust only. It taps solid and pretty much wipes off with barely a bubble.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070023.jpg

The rhs front guard is not a pretty sight. It looks like it might have had a mirror mounted on it that was torn off, as there's a fair hole ripped through the panels right about where I reckon a mirror on a stalk might have been.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070011.jpg

The lhs front guard isn't a pretty sight either. (Is a matched pair worth more???:D)
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070018.jpg

The engine didn't look too bad, not that there's much to see. Most bits seemed to be there, although a few wires were simply cut and hanging. I think they were indicator wiring from a relay of some sort. I think I've seen photo's of other S1's with the same device wires cut.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070026.jpg

The front cross member has a little rust through it so will need replacing.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070010.jpg

The ends of both chassis rails between the front of the front spring hanger and the front bumper bar were completely rotten. This seemed to be limited to the very front though and the actual spring hangers seemed solid. I assume the whole section of chassis from the ends to behind the front cross-member would have to be replaced though.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070009.jpg

The dash seemed to be all there although kids playing in it have long ago lost the ignition key. (The owner tells me the "kids" have now long grown up and moved out).
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070013.jpg

The lhs of the windscreen frame doesn't seem quite right. A botched home repair I suspect.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070016.jpg

The door handles for both doors were there, and worked, but I'm curious as to the handles themselves. I expected the exterior handles to be recessed into the doors and share the inside handle itself. This ute had exterior handles separate from the inside and were like door handles. There is no "cutout" in the outer door skin for access to the interior handle, just the mechanism shaft poking through to the outside and the handle mounted on it. Unfortunately I didn't get a photo of the outside door handles. Here's the inside.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070015.jpg

A couple of other things I noticed but didn't take photo's of.
- The rear cross member is perfect, with not even surface rust on it. I crawled around underneath a little and the rest of the chassis seemed pretty good, although access was difficult due to the dirt floor and flat tyres making the clearance tight.
- The lhs rear was the only place with the indicator and tail light lenses on, and also still boasted the original Land Rover badge.
- All four tyre are cracked and buggered.
- The drivers door perspex sliding windows are broken but the passengers door windows are still good.
- The gearstick is missing the knob.
- The brake pedal was lying flat to the floor so I assume there'll be a bit of work in that.
- The rear tub was pretty perfect and the tailgate looked pretty good, although I couldn't get a really good look as it was parked very close to the back of the shed.
- The previous owner (32 years ago) apparently said the engine had not long been reconditioned, but that's probably not a lot of value now.
- The paint looks like it's been hand painted with a house paint.
- The seat squabs are missing although the seat backs are there. The passenger one is eaten out rotten but the drivers one is pretty much intact with one tear in it.
- The firewall looked good.
- The windscreen wipers are missing, although the motors are fitted. (Those pesky "kids" again:))

So I haven't bought it yet. What do you reckon? Is the state of it manageable with replacement parts? The front cross-member and chassis front sections are probably my biggest concern followed by the front guards. The engine, gearbox, transfer box and diffs don't worry me too much. The electrics I can manage.

Any questions I should be considering? Any advice from the collective? (Aside from start running in the other direction).

Cheers
JayBoRover

[spudboy]

Hmmm - that's quite a big project! The cheapest part will be the purchase price - how much do they want for it?

You'll be whiling away your evenings to the sound of chassis grinding/welding for a while :p

Cute little car though. The engine might surprise you. I bought one from a farmer where it was stored outdoors for 7 years, and with some fresh fuel and a new battery it started right up after only 2 or 3 goes.

Good luck with it.

[slug_burner]

Looks like a nice project for you. Don't be deterred by rust in the crosmembers or rails, it just means you will need to learn to weld if you don't already weld.

Good luck

[JayBoRover]

Hmmm - that's quite a big project! The cheapest part will be the purchase price - how much do they want for it?For the asking price I didn't expect it to be quite as big a project as it's looking. I suspect the $4,500 ask is too high for the work that's required in it. Still, it was a nice drive in the country and you never know yet, he might move his price and I might find some reasonable priced bits somewhere. Neither seem too likely just at the moment though.


You'll be whiling away your evenings to the sound of chassis grinding/welding for a while :pYep - and isn't the wife happy about that prospect!!:twisted:


Cute little car though. The engine might surprise you. I bought one from a farmer where it was stored outdoors for 7 years, and with some fresh fuel and a new battery it started right up after only 2 or 3 goes.

Good luck with it.I've heard lot's of stories like yours about the engines starting up with little or no effort required. That's why I'm not too concerned about the drivetrain - plus it all seems pretty simple stuff and I'm pretty handy around mechanicals.
Just have to work through the issues and then see what I'll be prepared to pay and what the seller will be prepared to accept.
Cheers

[spudboy]

JayBo - I am no expert on pricing, but unless that is something special I don't think it is worth anywhere near $4.5K.

If you hadn't said anything I would have guessed $1K in that condition.

However, somone might come along soon and say it is a rare and precious model and that price is realistic...

[ERASER]

Just my 2 cents but in a car thats being restored, if its a 1k buy in or a 4.5 k buy in that wont mean much at the end. Alot more than that will be spent on it restoring it and the purchase price is soon forgotten.
It all comes down to how much you can do yourself, and how much you have to pay someone else to do for you.

[JDNSW]

It is an 80 inch, in surprisingly good condition for a "farm" ute. Door handles are probably standard for a late 80". One with a good bulkhead is pretty rare. It would be a pretty easy restoration job - for an 80". It is probably worth more than the suggested $1000, as these are now getting quite rare in condition this good. But whether it is as high as $4500 may be another matter.

It would probably be worth close to that or maybe more in the UK - but it is not in the UK, and the $A is getting higher relative to the pound.

What it is worth is what someone will pay for it - and with few of these available and few looking seriously for one, the actual selling price can vary wildly, depending mainly on who is in a hurry to sell or buy.

John

[ellard]

Hi there

They always look great parked in the back of a shed..........

With the 4.5k asking price I personally wouldnt touch it as I can already see the dollars signs ticking over in my head to bring it back to a roadworthy condition.

With a price set so high, it dosent leave alot of room for bartering.

All the best

Wayne

[chazza]

Nice find Jay!

Good points:
1. Minimal rust - although repairing the chassis or even the bulkhead is very easy to do.
2. Seems to be a 1953 80", check the chassis number on the LH engine mount and on the bulkhead plate inside the cab.
3. Has a truck cab roof, which is apparently very rare.
4. If the engine really is reconditioned, that is a win, as mine cost me about $3500 for parts and machining.

Bad points - when compared to the asking price:
1. Knackered front wings, new ones from the UK plus freight :(
2. Non original speedo - very rare hard to source.
3. Every system on the car will need overhauling and checking after sitting still for so long. I have spent about $5000 on my rolling chassis mainly in parts so far, and still don't have the engine running! :(

What you pay for it is up to you; I would think $1500 -$2000 is a reasonable price given the cost of parts and scarceness to make it roadworthy. See if you can get the engine running before you buy - mind you I got my seized engine running and it sounded superb, no rattles or knocks, but when I stripped it everything in the bottom end needed reconditioning ;)

Cheers Charlie

[Scallops]

I think it's sweet! :) I think you could try for a lower price, but having said that, I probably paid too much for my S1. But having only spent maybe $2,000 extra on the restoration, I now have a vehicle which is insured for twice what it's cost me.....

http://img28.imageshack.us/img28/6320/img0080c.jpg (http://img28.imageshack.us/i/img0080c.jpg/)

I agree - the purchase price will be forgotten once you restore her and get out driving it. Good luck with her if you buy it. :)

[JayBoRover]

Wow!!! Some great responses - thanks heaps.:)
Firstly, Scallops: Your S1 is a real beauty and was an inspiration to get me looking specifically for a S1. Absolutely gorgeous.:cool:

Chazza: You've summed it up nicely although I have a rapidly growing list of questions. One for now though - what sort of price do new fenders come in at with freight from the UK? I buy a bit of stuff from France for my Rallye bike and the price of freight is horrendous. Do they ship the fenders as a single item or do you rivet them up when they get here?
I doubt the owner will allow me to try and get the engine running before purchase, and I suspect he'd be very unwilling to change the price if I got it running because he'd then be able to tell every other person that enquires that the engine is a runner - at the expense of my effort. Also it's a fairly long drive to get to so I don't really want to travel too often to it - that's why I took a fair few photo's. (Only selection posted on the thread).

ellard: I love your comment "they always look great parked in the back of a shed".:D

JDNSW: That's kinda the way I'm thinking about it. Also be a shame to see it head away with some of it's local history over here. Of course it'll be stored with me for a while before I get a chance to get too serious with it. Maybe I'll even have forgotten what it cost me by the time I start??;)

ERASER: See above. I'll be watching your resto too. Nice to have one with some real history huh!:cool:

spudboy: I don't think anyone is going to say it's a special and rare beast. The closest I'll come I think has already been said in that it's an 80" and has the truck cab which is fairly rare. According to the current owner it was the sister vehicle for the one that was used for the queen when she was here in 1954. I haven't yet done anything to try and chase that angle as it's a bit "removed" to call it providence for this vehicle.:(

[JayBoRover]

Another question for those "in the know". Both sides had a "strap" screwed to the front fenders from the top to the bottom. You can see it in the photo below just below the windscreen hinge.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB070012.jpg
I haven't seen the same thing on any others that I've stumbled across in my searches. Is this an "owner modification" for some reason or could it actually be original?
Cheers
JayBo

[ellard]

Hi there

It is an owners modification - not orignal.

I have never inquired regarding wings/guards but did look at hoods and restoration kits (Upholstery) yesterday and it is a good time to purchase from the UK with Australian dollar being strong.

All the best

Wayne

[Scallops]

Heya JayBo - You don't necessarily need to get all your stuff from England - here is a place in Victoria (with free freight to anywhere in Australia) - look at all the stuff he has for your potential S1! ;) :)

Land Rover Parts from 1948 - 1958 Series One Landrover Parts - I 1 (http://www.seriesoneshop.com/)

[chazza]

Here is the link to the panel man but I bet the freight would be a killer,

wadsworthpanels.co.uk (http://www.wadsworthpanels.co.uk/)

I am going to have a go at making some soon,

Cheers Charlie

[Bigbjorn]

My opinion is that it is quite overpriced. $1000- tops $2000 is my idea. If there is a lot more chassis rust than first appears you may be looking for another chassis. Whatever, is is a ground up restoration and you will spend at least $15,000, maybe a good bit more.

At $4500 you may find yoursel;f with a very expensive parts car.

[Scallops]

Heya JayBo - although I'd say it is overpriced, it is a nice example on an 80 inch. If you are going to be doing the work yourself, then you'll save money there.

In order to maybe give you some idea of what others here have paid for their vehicles, let me share this with you.....

My vehicle was also overpriced, I suspect :angel:- I payed $6500.00, but he wanted $7500.00....

http://img811.imageshack.us/img811/5071/dsc0003iu.jpg (http://img811.imageshack.us/i/dsc0003iu.jpg/)

but I could drive the vehicle around the farm it came from (they had to drag me out of it) and straight onto this trailer to take her home. The chassis had been fully restored (zero rust - good as the day it was made), and the gearbox (reconditioned apparently), steering etc - all very good. Engine is Rover - always starts first pop. Has door tops and a fairly new tilt. All the panels are / were in great condition. Very minimal rust on the firewall (there is none now!). So I could see why he expected a wad of cash for her. I think your seller should appreciate that if these types of things have not be done to the vehicle, then his price is probably unrealistic.

Having said that, in the end, it's not exactly everyday a Series 1 80 inch comes up. I kind of hope you buy it, but I would also hope the seller is willing to come down some on his asking price. Maybe if you turn up with 20 $100.00 notes (with maybe a few extra in your back pocket) and put them on the bonnet he'll see things differently.

Good luck. :)

[Lost Landy]

Sorry but i have to agree that your little 80" was way over priced! I just sold a 1953 80" that was rust free and totally original even had its factory hard top with perfect panels for $2,000.

Your 80" should look great after your but a few hours of Blood, Sweat & Tears into her.

[Scallops]

Sorry but i have to agree that your little 80" was way over priced! I just sold a 1953 80" that was rust free and totally original even had its factory hard top with perfect panels for $2,000.

Your 80" should look great after your but a few hours of Blood, Sweat & Tears into her.

Heya Lost - sorry for my mix up! :angel: :)

I don't think JayBo has actually bought the 80 (yet!) either.

[JayBoRover]

Heya Lost - sorry for my mix up! :angel: :)

I don't think JayBo has actually bought the 80 (yet!) either.
No purchase ... yet. I'm trying to get a bit of an idea of what bits are relatively available and what bits are rebuildable. Then I'll figure on a value and see if the guy will move on the price. Interestingly, last night I dug out an old magazine dated 2002 that looked at second hand purchase of Series Land Rovers. It had ball park value ranges and described what vehicles and what conditions would fit into the ranges. The $2k to $4k range slotted in Series 1's in restorable but rough condition. That was back in 2002.

For me the big crunch is still with those front fenders. It seems to me they are too bad to be repairable and a relatively costly item to replace. I've now added to my concern with those "straps" over the back of the fenders - wondering what possessed a previous owner from screwing those on. What was falling apart to require that and why?

Still thinking....

[101RRS]

Are 80s really so rare that you had to move on this one? They do seem to be coming up on ebay almost as much as other series 1s. I do appreciate very early ones special but later ones less so.

[JayBoRover]

Are 80s really so rare that you had to move on this one? They do seem to be coming up on ebay almost as much as other series 1s. I do appreciate very early ones special but later ones less so.
Maybe not so rare over in your neck of the woods but I haven't seen any in WA for quite a while and I don't fancy buying one unseen from across the country and then paying around $1k to get it brought across - that would just make this one worth $3k if you all reckon it's worth $2k over East. Also, I haven't seen many 80" with hardtop truck cab, even looking through the "show us your S1" thread, searching several internet sites and looking through several books. Plenty of canvas tops and a fair few 88" with hardtop, but no 80" hardtops. Are they rare just because I can't find any? What other definition for rare is there?;)

I haven't actually "moved on this one" yet. If it was in better condition or cheaper I might have, but it's neither so I'm just doing due diligence homework at this point. I won't be panic buying it. I only stumbled across it looking for a Series 3 as a runabout so I can sell my Patrol ute with slide-on TrayMate camper.

[chazza]

It seems to me as if you taking the right approach Jay. :)

Make him a sensible offer and if he doesn't like it look for another one. You are correct that bugger-all seem to come up for sale in WA!

My brother managed to score one in similar condition to yours for $500 this year!

Cheers Charlie

[862993]

For me the big crunch is still with those front fenders. It seems to me they are too bad to be repairable and a relatively costly item to replace. I've now added to my concern with those "straps" over the back of the fenders - wondering what possessed a previous owner from screwing those on. What was falling apart to require that and why?

Still thinking....

80 guards have a nasty habit of cracking around where the bolts hold them on to the bulkhead. Its not unusual for a vehicle to be "fixed" on the farm by having extra steel reinforcement added to them with the hopes of keeping them on for a bit longer. Often the fronts are bracketed to the chassis or bumper for the same reason. If the guards are only cracked and not torn through you can often have them welded back together, provided corrosion hasnt set in. Otherwise its fairly easy to make a much less noticeable repair on the underside of the guard.

[groucho]

Common problem with the later 80" guards..





https://www.aulro.com/afvb/images/imported/2010/11/1139.jpg

[JayBoRover]

I spoke to the owner last night, principally to let him know I was still considering it and researching some more. Although we didn't yet talk the about the price, he did tell me that if I buy the S1 I can pillage as many parts as might be useful from the other dead S2s lying around. So I now need to figure what parts might be useful, without knowing much about the other vehicles. I know that one is a SWB hardtop and that both have severely rusty chassis. I think I'm going to have to go back to check them out, in case there's something worthwhile hiding there. This time I'd get him to pull the S1 out so I can get a better look at it and then also I can check the chassis number to confirm it's age.
So are little things like indicator lights, speedo, seats etc likely to be interchangeable between the S1 and S2? Also maybe the front cross member and front of the chassis rails, if only the back is rotten? Seems to me unlikely and I would prefer to try and get the S1 back to original without incorrect series parts on it but I'm thinking maybe I can take both off his hands if he's unwilling to drop the price on the S1 alone.

[chazza]

Very little is interchangeable especially if you want to restore the S1; however; later parts can be made to fit.

Early S2's had some common parts, later 2A's less so. The speedo is totally different, as are all parking lights and the 80" left the factory without indicators. Axles, brakes, instruments, steering box and body panels all differ as do the chassis and bulkhead. I think I am correct in saying that the seats are different as well.

I wouldn't bank on the S2's as being useful bargaining tools :(

The chassis repairs are easy to do yourself if you can weld - PM me if you would like me to email you some articles I wrote on how I did mine,

Cheers Charlie

[Scallops]

What chazza said - very little interchangeable if restoring it - it's not a bargaining point.

[JayBoRover]

That's pretty much what I figured. I don't think the wife would accept two old Landy's lying around here either. It's a tough enough sell to be considering one. Still, I suspect she thinks a new hobby might ween me off racing cross country rally's.:angel:

[JayBoRover]

I think my addiction has started:o I couldn't help myself and visited "The Pit Stop" book shop in Perth and walked out with two books - "Original Land Rover Series 1" and the "Land Rover Series 1 Workshop Manual". Not content with that I also ordered in the "Practical Classics on Land Rover Series 1 Restoration". Their pricing is not far off the Internet pricing which is good to see.
So, having now read the section of the first book that covers the 80" S1, I now have a long list of things I want to re-check on the S1 I looked at last weekend:confused:. I'm hoping to go back to it this weekend and hoping the owner will allow me to bring some tools and play with it a bit. I also want him to pull it out of the shed for me so I can get properly underneath it and check the back and chassis more carefully. It'll also give me the chance to discuss the price with him face-to-face and see if we can get something more realistic happening.
Here's hoping.:angel:

[chazza]

Top work Jay! Good to see another come to the fold :D

Whilst you are underneath it, stab the chassis checking for weak spots with a thin screwdriver. Take the chassis number list from the workshop manual with you so that you can identify the year and if you swot-up on Taylor's book, you might be able to spot any parts on it that are from the wrong year.

Some parts such as the wheel rims; dynamo and radiator have date of manufacture on them, which helps to work out how authentic a vehicle is.

It might help to get the asking price down if you can quote the cost of some spares and or the lack of availability of others.

Have fun and I hope you have a successful excursion; in the meantime you might find this site useful reading, Land Rover Series One Club - Index (http://www.lrsoc.com/forum/index.php?action=forum#c6)

Cheers Charlie

[russellrovers]

hi i have a hard top for sale if needed for a80 inch jim

[russellrovers]

hi i have a hard top for sale if needed for a80 inch jim

[russellrovers]

modern thinking is to keep the land rover in farm patina interesting talking point at lr days but go to orignal is a little exspensive but at the end of the day it is worth it jim

[bayrover]

I think we should try and make some pork pies russellsrovers

[JayBoRover]

Thanks there Charlie. A "chassis poking screw-driver" was definitely one of the tools I was planning on taking along. (Probably the only tool I have that's correct for a Land Rover;)). I've photo-copied a few useful pages from the manual and Taylor's book as well as made a few notes of things to check and expected part numbers for a few items. I'm almost convinced it's a 1953 S1 after checking against the texts and the pictures. The current owner is happy enough for me to go and look again tomorrow and bring some tools. He'll also pump the tyres up and pull it out of the shed for me. I mentioned that at least one tyre was cracked from being flat so long and he said I'd be welcome to take the wheels and tyres off one of the other old LRs lying around. Part of the mission tomorrow will be to positively identify the "spares" LRs.

BTW, do you happen to know if the SII headlight will fit in the SI? The Hardtop SII he has there has two good lights while the SI is missing one. It's on the raiding list I think.

My wife caught me out referring to it as "my one" and "mine" when mentioning things about it that I find in the books. (Like "I think mine has a later model distributor like the 1955 107" model has). I asked if she wanted to come and have a look with me tomorrow and she replied "I'll just see it when it gets here".:D. I did suggest that if I went to see it with a car trailer it would save me the long drive every time I wanted to check some detail ... I could just walk out to the shed and look;).

My brother and his partner are coming along for a look too. Her father owns a few series Land Rovers on the farm, all stored in sheds but definitely not for sale. She says if I don't buy it she will!! Apparently her Dad is quite excited by the prospect of me buying one:cool:.

Thanks too for the link to the LRS1 Club. Should be quite useful too.

Thanks for the offer on the hardtop russellrovers. Is it a "Truck cab" or a full "Hardtop"? "Mine" already has a Truck Cab and it was in pretty good nic from what I could see. I think the 80" Truck Cabs are relatively sought after if that's what you've got. There seems to be a few 80" S1's with the slightly incorrect 86/107" Truck Cabs fitted with the "b" pillars not quite right.

So I should have some more details and some more photo's tomorrow night.
Cheers
John B

[Scallops]

Thanks there Charlie. A "chassis poking screw-driver" was definitely one of the tools I was planning on taking along. (Probably the only tool I have that's correct for a Land Rover;)). I've photo-copied a few useful pages from the manual and Taylor's book as well as made a few notes of things to check and expected part numbers for a few items. I'm almost convinced it's a 1953 S1 after checking against the texts and the pictures. The current owner is happy enough for me to go and look again tomorrow and bring some tools. He'll also pump the tyres up and pull it out of the shed for me. I mentioned that at least one tyre was cracked from being flat so long and he said I'd be welcome to take the wheels and tyres off one of the other old LRs lying around. Part of the mission tomorrow will be to positively identify the "spares" LRs.

BTW, do you happen to know if the SII headlight will fit in the SI? The Hardtop SII he has there has two good lights while the SI is missing one. It's on the raiding list I think.

My wife caught me out referring to it as "my one" and "mine" when mentioning things about it that I find in the books. (Like "I think mine has a later model distributor like the 1955 107" model has). I asked if she wanted to come and have a look with me tomorrow and she replied "I'll just see it when it gets here".:D. I did suggest that if I went to see it with a car trailer it would save me the long drive every time I wanted to check some detail ... I could just walk out to the shed and look;).

My brother and his partner are coming along for a look too. Her father owns a few series Land Rovers on the farm, all stored in sheds but definitely not for sale. She says if I don't buy it she will!! Apparently her Dad is quite excited by the prospect of me buying one:cool:.

Thanks too for the link to the LRS1 Club. Should be quite useful too.

Thanks for the offer on the hardtop russellrovers. Is it a "Truck cab" or a full "Hardtop"? "Mine" already has a Truck Cab and it was in pretty good nic from what I could see. I think the 80" Truck Cabs are relatively sought after if that's what you've got. There seems to be a few 80" S1's with the slightly incorrect 86/107" Truck Cabs fitted with the "b" pillars not quite right.

So I should have some more details and some more photo's tomorrow night.
Cheers
John B

:D Your wife is a good woman. ;) Taking a car trailer is gone! :D Welcome to the club! :D

[slug_burner]

You turn up with a car trailer and there goes your barganing power.

[russellrovers]

Thanks there Charlie. A "chassis poking screw-driver" was definitely one of the tools I was planning on taking along. (Probably the only tool I have that's correct for a Land Rover;)). I've photo-copied a few useful pages from the manual and Taylor's book as well as made a few notes of things to check and expected part numbers for a few items. I'm almost convinced it's a 1953 S1 after checking against the texts and the pictures. The current owner is happy enough for me to go and look again tomorrow and bring some tools. He'll also pump the tyres up and pull it out of the shed for me. I mentioned that at least one tyre was cracked from being flat so long and he said I'd be welcome to take the wheels and tyres off one of the other old LRs lying around. Part of the mission tomorrow will be to positively identify the "spares" LRs.

BTW, do you happen to know if the SII headlight will fit in the SI? The Hardtop SII he has there has two good lights while the SI is missing one. It's on the raiding list I think.

My wife caught me out referring to it as "my one" and "mine" when mentioning things about it that I find in the books. (Like "I think mine has a later model distributor like the 1955 107" model has). I asked if she wanted to come and have a look with me tomorrow and she replied "I'll just see it when it gets here".:D. I did suggest that if I went to see it with a car trailer it would save me the long drive every time I wanted to check some detail ... I could just walk out to the shed and look;).

My brother and his partner are coming along for a look too. Her father owns a few series Land Rovers on the farm, all stored in sheds but definitely not for sale. She says if I don't buy it she will!! Apparently her Dad is quite excited by the prospect of me buying one:cool:.

Thanks too for the link to the LRS1 Club. Should be quite useful too.

Thanks for the offer on the hardtop russellrovers. Is it a "Truck cab" or a full "Hardtop"? "Mine" already has a Truck Cab and it was in pretty good nic from what I could see. I think the 80" Truck Cabs are relatively sought after if that's what you've got. There seems to be a few 80" S1's with the slightly incorrect 86/107" Truck Cabs fitted with the "b" pillars not quite right.

So I should have some more details and some more photo's tomorrow night.
Cheers
John B
hi john it is a full 80 inch hard top

[JDNSW]

You turn up with a car trailer and there goes your barganing power.

Park the trailer a few km away - you may find a garage for example that will let you park it and keep an eye on it.

But at the end of the day, how much you have to pay depends on the balance of how badly you want that particular vehicle, and how badly he wants to sell.

John

[JayBoRover]

Sorry guys, I didn't take a car trailer with me ... just told the wife I may as well. You are correct slug-burner, taking a car trailer would have shot any bargaining power but even if I'd taken a trailer I would have unhitched down the road a few kms and turned up without it initially.

So the S1 is now confirmed as a 1952 by virtue of the chassis number. I checked that the numbers matched on the 4WD instruction plate on the firewall and on the engine mount tab on the lhs chassis rail.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130002.jpg

Unfortunately I couldn't find the engine number but I did find the date stamp on each of the four wheels. The two drivers side wheels were both stamped the same 10/49 while the other wheels were 6/53 and 12/51.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130025.jpg

Apart from the dates, my closer second look revealed a few other things. The front grille panel is cracked in a couple of places and a previous owner has bolted on two small flat steel brackets to hold it together.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB140038.jpg

The firewall is rotten through on the drivers side at the box section end that the inner fenders and the door hinges bolt to.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130006.jpg
That explains my mystery from the first visit as to why steel straps had been bolted to the outside of the fenders. Similar, but not quite as bad, on the passenger side.

There is also an area of rust through the inner firewall panel on both sides.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130008.jpg

It looks like Photobucket has packed a sad so I won't bother writing up any more until it sorts itself out. I have a few more photo's and more details to come yet and still need some advice on a couple of aspects. I'll try again tomorrow night.
Cheers
John B

[chazza]

Well good on you for doing a thorough recce! :)

I would have been surprised if the bulkhead hadn't been rusty in those places - they all rust there!

The engine no. is stamped on the block just in front of the exhaust manifold on the machined face; you might need emery cloth to make it appear.

I am looking forward to your next report but I won't be able to read it for 1 week :(

Cheers Charlie

[Bigbjorn]

With that much rust in the chassis and bulkhead, I reckon you have a parts car. Restoration would be a long expensive process unless you have a good chassis and a good bulkhead. A few hundred dollars would be my offer.

If the vendor won't accept this, walk away, unless you are a masochist, or an eccentric millionaire.

[spudboy]

^^ I'm with Brian, I'm afraid.....

[101RRS]

Only worth a few hundred at most with that rust - chassis is not suspect as well. That looks like dampness around that rust - but isn't it parked in a shed under cover.

However if you were to find a good firewall, the car might be worth getting if the price was right.

Garry

[Scallops]

I just hope the little truck gets restored one day - either by you, JayBo, getting it at the right price, or by some one else.

[dennisS1]

My opinion for what it is worth $650 top price.
I would give no more than this and I have spare firewalls and chassis.
Dennis

[JayBoRover]

I won't fast forward to the end (I've still got pictures to post:)), but I'm in tune with the general sentiment in your responses.

It was great to have the old S1 pushed out of the shed because the first visit I couldn't really get inside to check the inside of the firewall or the rear cross member. Also with all four tyres flat there simply wasn't enough room for me to shimmy underneath for a good look. The farmer brought his compressor out and pumped up all four tyres. After 30 years parked in the shed, all four tyres blew up and held air. Amazing!:eek: This despite at least one of the tyres having a severe crack in the sidewall about 6" long.

Anyway, on with the show...
So the rear cross member didn't look so go at first glance from the rear.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130009.jpg

However any thought that maybe it could be sorted was soon thrown out when viewing the underneath.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130010.jpg

I can't remember which cross member this is but it wasn't too pretty. I think it's just rear of the gearbox cross member.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130020.jpg

The actual gearbox cross member looks like it's had a steel plate welded under it.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130021.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130022.jpg

I did say it had been parked right up against the rear of the shed didn't I?
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130011.jpg

Another thing I was keen to check out was how much damage had been done to the dash when fitting the incorrect speedo. So I pulled out my screwdrivers and removed the square panel that had been made to mount the bigger speedo to see what was behind. Not a pretty sight! The panel has just been butchered. The speedo cable obviously didn't line up with the grommeted hole in the firewall so it looks like the hole was elongated ... using a big pair of pliers or similar.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130001.jpg
I was also disappointed to find that the speedo panel had been screwed through the Transfer Case instruction plate on the firewall, leaving a self tapped hole in the plate. Arrgghhh.

I also noticed another crack in the front fender that led to a further discovery. The front grille panel has been welded to the fenders! The aluminium of the fenders has cracked so the bolted section was free so good old farmer mate (previous owner) has attacked it with a welder.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130018.jpg

The rear sliding windows seemed okay. (As long as you don't mind your "windows" being opaque that is). One actually moved a few inches but the only thing stopping both from working is the 30 years of dust in the aluminium tracks.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130015.jpg

Steering wheel seemed reasonable and the indicator stalk still moved and felt like a good "click" into each position.
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB130016.jpg

So, overall, I'm quite disappointed. I guess I'd kinda fallen for the old thing but it's just not worth anywhere near the money he's asking. I doubt I'll get anywhere with him because he seems to be under some spell where he thinks he has squirrelled away a gold nugget worth a squillion dollars. He also says one of the two previous people to have a look at it told him he'd get $5,500 for it:o. I'll try but it's a long way from $4,500 to $600:D!

A couple of memories maybe?
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB140036.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB140037.jpg
http://i229.photobucket.com/albums/ee138/GaelJohn/Series%201%20Land%20Rover%20restoration/PB140035.jpg
Cheers
John B

[Lost Landy]

The body work is quite decent, though would take alot of work but it is doable.
Iam sure that if you go out searching you may well find a series 1 in better cond and for a lot less the $4,000.

[spudboy]

Look upon it as a learning experience :D It hasn't been a waste of time at all, as you have found out a lot of things about Series Landies.

Keep looking, and another opportunity will come up.

Thanks for posting all the photos. Very interesting.

[back_in]

What is holding the old girl together
major work required
a very good donor vehicle would help
cheers
Ian

[Scallops]

What is holding the old girl together
major work required
a very good donor vehicle would help
cheers
Ian

Charm.

I do hope this lovely thing gets the help it needs.

[russellrovers]

The body work is quite decent, though would take alot of work but it is doable.
Iam sure that if you go out searching you may well find a series 1 in better cond and for a lot less the $4,000.
a good restoration project to start with a little top side on the dollors jim

[JayBoRover]

Charm.

I do hope this lovely thing gets the help it needs.
I'm with you there mate. I really hope it'll be me that gets to help it but that will require some semblance of reality from the current owner. It really is a nice little truck ... just in very poor condition. ("So what is it that makes it a nice little truck" my head asks ... "it just is" my heart says!)

Perhaps a recap of:
1) the good points;
- Truck Cab is in very good condition.
- Tub is in pretty good condition with just the floor being a little buckled, although the underneath cross rails are straight and rust free.
- Tailgate is pretty good with only a little "straightening" required. Both latches are still there and work and line up.
- Seat boxes are very good, although one inspection "flap" is missing. Most of the seat rubber blocks are there. Two of the seat backs are there and hinge nicely.
- Doors, hinges and handles all operate well and in pretty good condition. The external door handles seem to be fairly rare as few models had this type of handle and they are genuine, original ones from what I can tell.
- Bonnet is reasonable, although a little dented from, I'm guessing, kids climbing on it. The hinges work well and all the fixings seem to be there including the loops for the windscreen to fold down to and the bonnet latches.
- Windscreen glass seems good. I guess the old girl never went fast enough for stones to be able to chip it ... or 30 ears of shed dust is hiding the chips:D.

2) the unknowns;
- Engine. I checked the oil and the end of the dipstick had plenty of oil on it and, although it was black, there was no sign of creaminess. The radiator core is shagged but the external tanks seem good.
- Gearbox. Obviously leaking oil judging by the huge amount of oil dripping all over the cross member but unable to test. How it managed to rust is beyond me!:D
- Transfer box. Not able to test.
- Diff's. Not able to test.

3) the bad points;
- Chassis cross members are rotten and the front ends of both chassis rails are rotten, although nowhere near as bad as some I've seen on here and the holes don't extend to the front spring hangers.
- Firewall is rotten at the box-section ends where the door hinges mount and the front fenders bolt to. Slightly rusty in the front panels of the firewall at knee height on both sides.
- Front fenders quite cracked and generally very rough.
- Instrument dash butchered to fit larger incorrect speedo.
- Windscreen frame ("A" Pillar) has had a pipe fitting of some sort welded into it on the lhs.
- Transfer Box instruction label drilled though by self tapper screw. (Maybe this should fit in the "minor annoyances" list below but I don't know how replaceable the label is.

4) Minor annoyances;
- Drivers side perspex windows both broken.
- Wheels not a matched set of correct year.
- Front bumper is bent and creased.
- Fuel tank guard rusted away.
- Rear bumper bar on drivers side seriously bent.
- Air pre-cleaner is missing.
- Distributor seems to be a later model one (1955?).
- Gearstick knob missing:eek:

The house paint that's been brushed on and the 30 years of wind blown farm dust probably hides a few things but probably minor panel stuff.

I'm psyching myself up to ring the owner tomorrow to put an offer to him.
Let's see if there's another chapter to this story.
Cheers
John B

[Scallops]

I'm with you there mate. I really hope it'll be me that gets to help it but that will require some semblance of reality from the current owner. It really is a nice little truck ... just in very poor condition. ("So what is it that makes it a nice little truck" my head asks ... "it just is" my heart says!)

Perhaps a recap of:
1) the good points;
- Truck Cab is in very good condition.
- Tub is in pretty good condition with just the floor being a little buckled, although the underneath cross rails are straight and rust free.
- Tailgate is pretty good with only a little "straightening" required. Both latches are still there and work and line up.
- Seat boxes are very good, although one inspection "flap" is missing. Most of the seat rubber blocks are there. Two of the seat backs are there and hinge nicely.
- Doors, hinges and handles all operate well and in pretty good condition. The external door handles seem to be fairly rare as few models had this type of handle and they are genuine, original ones from what I can tell.
- Bonnet is reasonable, although a little dented from, I'm guessing, kids climbing on it. The hinges work well and all the fixings seem to be there including the loops for the windscreen to fold down to and the bonnet latches.
- Windscreen glass seems good. I guess the old girl never went fast enough for stones to be able to chip it ... or 30 ears of shed dust is hiding the chips:D.

2) the unknowns;
- Engine. I checked the oil and the end of the dipstick had plenty of oil on it and, although it was black, there was no sign of creaminess. The radiator core is shagged but the external tanks seem good.
- Gearbox. Obviously leaking oil judging by the huge amount of oil dripping all over the cross member but unable to test. How it managed to rust is beyond me!:D
- Transfer box. Not able to test.
- Diff's. Not able to test.

3) the bad points;
- Chassis cross members are rotten and the front ends of both chassis rails are rotten, although nowhere near as bad as some I've seen on here and the holes don't extend to the front spring hangers.
- Firewall is rotten at the box-section ends where the door hinges mount and the front fenders bolt to. Slightly rusty in the front panels of the firewall at knee height on both sides.
- Front fenders quite cracked and generally very rough.
- Instrument dash butchered to fit larger incorrect speedo.
- Windscreen frame ("A" Pillar) has had a pipe fitting of some sort welded into it on the lhs.
- Transfer Box instruction label drilled though by self tapper screw. (Maybe this should fit in the "minor annoyances" list below but I don't know how replaceable the label is.

4) Minor annoyances;
- Drivers side perspex windows both broken.
- Wheels not a matched set of correct year.
- Front bumper is bent and creased.
- Fuel tank guard rusted away.
- Rear bumper bar on drivers side seriously bent.
- Air pre-cleaner is missing.
- Distributor seems to be a later model one (1955?).
- Gearstick knob missing:eek:

The house paint that's been brushed on and the 30 years of wind blown farm dust probably hides a few things but probably minor panel stuff.

I'm psyching myself up to ring the owner tomorrow to put an offer to him.
Let's see if there's another chapter to this story.
Cheers
John B

Good luck - plenty of support here for you. :)

[cjc_td5]

I'm with you there mate. I really hope it'll be me that gets to help it but that will require some semblance of reality from the current owner. It really is a nice little truck ... just in very poor condition. ("So what is it that makes it a nice little truck" my head asks ... "it just is" my heart says!)

Perhaps a recap of:
1) the good points;
- Truck Cab is in very good condition.
- Tub is in pretty good condition with just the floor being a little buckled, although the underneath cross rails are straight and rust free.
- Tailgate is pretty good with only a little "straightening" required. Both latches are still there and work and line up.
- Seat boxes are very good, although one inspection "flap" is missing. Most of the seat rubber blocks are there. Two of the seat backs are there and hinge nicely.
- Doors, hinges and handles all operate well and in pretty good condition. The external door handles seem to be fairly rare as few models had this type of handle and they are genuine, original ones from what I can tell.
- Bonnet is reasonable, although a little dented from, I'm guessing, kids climbing on it. The hinges work well and all the fixings seem to be there including the loops for the windscreen to fold down to and the bonnet latches.
- Windscreen glass seems good. I guess the old girl never went fast enough for stones to be able to chip it ... or 30 ears of shed dust is hiding the chips:D.

2) the unknowns;
- Engine. I checked the oil and the end of the dipstick had plenty of oil on it and, although it was black, there was no sign of creaminess. The radiator core is shagged but the external tanks seem good.
- Gearbox. Obviously leaking oil judging by the huge amount of oil dripping all over the cross member but unable to test. How it managed to rust is beyond me!:D
- Transfer box. Not able to test.
- Diff's. Not able to test.

3) the bad points;
- Chassis cross members are rotten and the front ends of both chassis rails are rotten, although nowhere near as bad as some I've seen on here and the holes don't extend to the front spring hangers.
- Firewall is rotten at the box-section ends where the door hinges mount and the front fenders bolt to. Slightly rusty in the front panels of the firewall at knee height on both sides.
- Front fenders quite cracked and generally very rough.
- Instrument dash butchered to fit larger incorrect speedo.
- Windscreen frame ("A" Pillar) has had a pipe fitting of some sort welded into it on the lhs.
- Transfer Box instruction label drilled though by self tapper screw. (Maybe this should fit in the "minor annoyances" list below but I don't know how replaceable the label is.

4) Minor annoyances;
- Drivers side perspex windows both broken.
- Wheels not a matched set of correct year.
- Front bumper is bent and creased.
- Fuel tank guard rusted away.
- Rear bumper bar on drivers side seriously bent.
- Air pre-cleaner is missing.
- Distributor seems to be a later model one (1955?).
- Gearstick knob missing:eek:

The house paint that's been brushed on and the 30 years of wind blown farm dust probably hides a few things but probably minor panel stuff.

I'm psyching myself up to ring the owner tomorrow to put an offer to him.
Let's see if there's another chapter to this story.
Cheers
John B

Hi there John,
The wear and tear you have noted appears to me to be fairly reasonable for a vehicle of its age and probable usage on a farm. There is a heap of work there though to get it to a condition suitable for registration or respectability. You will want to be a gun with a welder and metal fabrication to fix the chassis and bulkhead (or willing to pay someone to spend a lot of time fixing them). Also, you will need to find a good source for a heap of parts including front guards etc.

I paid $600 for my 86" a couple of years ago which could be driven onto the car trailer for the trip home. I found a local LR nut who had a huge supply of second hand parts that I could pillage for very good $$. I would hate to have had to pay top dollar for all of the bits I have bought. I have spent about $3K rebuilding the brakes, axles, oil seals etc. The radiator alone cost me $600 to be recored. I'll probably have another $2K to finish it off. You need to judge how much you are willing to spend but know there will be a few $K by the time it gets on the road.

My 86" was bought when I lived over east and I don't know how often they come up on the market over here in WA. But for $4.5K, I would think you could pick up a much better S1 over east and get it over here and still have change left over.

Just my thoughts. It is not easy to take the initial plunge. Good luck with it.

Cheers,
Chris

[chazza]

Another good point is that steering wheel! Rather hard to come by in that condition. :)

I agree with Dennis; about $600 is a fair price for a well-worn out Rover.

As for the chassis and bulkhead they are very easy to repair and very cheap if you can weld. If you can't weld and you end up with this car, give me a call and I can give you some lessons for free,

Cheers Charlie

[JayBoRover]

Another good point is that steering wheel! Rather hard to come by in that condition. :)

I agree with Dennis; about $600 is a fair price for a well-worn out Rover.

As for the chassis and bulkhead they are very easy to repair and very cheap if you can weld. If you can't weld and you end up with this car, give me a call and I can give you some lessons for free,

Cheers Charlie
That's a very nice offer Charlie:). I can see a drive to Narrogin in my future:cool:. I have done a bit of welding but just home hobby level stuff with a stick welder. Seems to be a heavy amount of luck involved and much use of the grinder! Haven't used oxy acetylene for decades - since trade school in the mid eighties:eek:.

I tried to ring the S1 owner tonight but didn't catch him. I'll try again tomorrow.

Ciao
John B

[spudboy]

John - if you are planning on doing a heap of welding, I'd say forget using a stick welder, and get hold of a MIG welder. Much easier to control on thin sections of steel.

I have tried one of these new Inverter Stick Welders and they are Sooooo much better than my big old transformer welder, and make stick welding a lot easier, but still not as good (controllable) as a MIG in my experience.

[JayBoRover]

Well I rang the owner this morning and as expected he his not willing to discuss a price drop in the region I was talking. He did say I might get one of the other wrecks lying around his place for that sort of money, but if you thought the S1 was bad you should see the others!:eek: The feeling I got was he'd drop a little but I'd say $4k was probably his limit.

So I'm back to plan "A" which was to find a S3, hopefully a Hardtop SWB, sell my Nissan ute with slide-on camper and then find a S1 restoration project. Somewhere in there I have to get my Rallye bike prepared for another assault on the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge in April too.

So if anyone hears of anything I might be interested in along the lines of the above, let me know. Cheers to everyone that has contributed to this thread with advice, encouragement and offers of help etc. You have all been great:).
John B

[slug_burner]

Well I rang the owner this morning and as expected he his not willing to discuss a price drop in the region I was talking. He did say I might get one of the other wrecks lying around his place for that sort of money, but if you thought the S1 was bad you should see the others!:eek: The feeling I got was he'd drop a little but I'd say $4k was probably his limit.

So I'm back to plan "A" which was to find a S3, hopefully a Hardtop SWB, sell my Nissan ute with slide-on camper and then find a S1 restoration project. Somewhere in there I have to get my Rallye bike prepared for another assault on the Abu Dhabi Desert Challenge in April too.

So if anyone hears of anything I might be interested in along the lines of the above, let me know. Cheers to everyone that has contributed to this thread with advice, encouragement and offers of help etc. You have all been great:).
John B

Just make him an offer then you will know. From an 80" to a S3 that is a significant shift. If you are going that way you might as well go to a defender with a Tdi.

[JayBoRover]

I did make him an offer and he said there's no way he'd sell it for that so I do know:(.
It was always my intention to buy a "daily" driver Land Rover (I say "daily" because I generally cycle 32km's each way to work and my Nissan sits there for days at a time without use and then gets driven to the nearest Park and Ride for the odd day I can't cycle and have to take the train) and pick up a S1 as a project in addition but afterwards. When this S1 came up I thought my plan was flexible enough to change the order of purchases. So it's not really "from an 80 to an S3", more "back to S3 first then an 80".;)

[spudboy]

What about this one for $3,000?

LANDROVER SERIES 1 86" 1954 MODEL + SPARE DIFF & AXLES (eBay item 200543759553 end time 29-Nov-10 16:13:45 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LANDROVER-SERIES-1-86-1954-MODEL-SPARE-DIFF-AXLES-/200543759553?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item2eb156ecc1)

[Scallops]

What about this one for $3,000?

LANDROVER SERIES 1 86" 1954 MODEL + SPARE DIFF & AXLES (eBay item 200543759553 end time 29-Nov-10 16:13:45 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LANDROVER-SERIES-1-86-1954-MODEL-SPARE-DIFF-AXLES-/200543759553?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item2eb156ecc1)

C'mon JayBo - win this auction :) PS - I can recommend the 86 inch flavour!

[JayBoRover]

What about this one for $3,000?

LANDROVER SERIES 1 86" 1954 MODEL + SPARE DIFF & AXLES (eBay item 200543759553 end time 29-Nov-10 16:13:45 AEDST) : Cars, Bikes, Boats (http://cgi.ebay.com.au/LANDROVER-SERIES-1-86-1954-MODEL-SPARE-DIFF-AXLES-/200543759553?pt=AU_Cars&hash=item2eb156ecc1)

$3k "purchase now" plus transport it from Tasmania to Perth plus have to source a Land Rover motor to replace the Holden Starfire one ... would end up I'd be as well off paying $4.5k for the one down the road here - something everyone has told me is far too expensive. Damn, I've just told him today I wouldn't buy it and already I'm having second thoughts. Lucky I've got a Series III to look at next week.

[chazza]

It seems to me you have made a sensible decision not to purchase at that price - tell 'im he's dreamin! :)

Have a look in your PM,

Cheers Charlie

[dennisS1]

Did any one on this sit buy the 86"with original motor, apparently drivable one off ebay for $1680? looked pretty good.
Makes the one in WA worth about $500 only due to 80".
Dennis

[back_in]

Hey Dennis
more money in Series 1's than computers
I think he has stars in his eye's at that money
Been a Tassie may be the prob.
all the work putting the chassis back to normal, 52 donk, etc etc
be up for more than what my 88 is worth in good nick
cheers
Ian

[spudboy]

... Damn, I've just told him today I wouldn't buy it and already I'm having second thoughts. Lucky I've got a Series III to look at next week.

JayBo - it comes down to patience and a bit of luck. I think you did the right thing to walk away from that one. I think it would send you broke restoring it. That chassis had major issues.

Another one will come along, then you can look back and think how lucky you are not to be buying a new chassis from the UK ;)

[lyallthecrocodile]

I agree too, i paid $1100 for mine (86") which was driveable and only needs minor chassis work (rear chassis member only and slight straightening of gearbox crossmember). it also came with reconditioned replacement firewall and an extra bonnet (very straight) and spare front guards. Realise however that you may be after an 80".

Lyall

[101RRS]

Hey Jayborover,

Why not get this - it is in WA - no transport costs - a good price and would stand out in a crowd

http://www.aulro.com/afvb/fcs-military-variations/117826-letting-my-101-fc-ambo-go.htm

Garry

[Mick_Marsh]

Thanks Garry, I'm looking at that one myself.

[andy_d110]

Hey mate I know if a complete 1950 model for sale, will pass on the details when I get home from bush, it's a lights through the grille model, 1600 cc engine, minor chassis and bulkhead rust. Located in the wheatbelt somewhere. .....