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View Full Version : Staying power - and dual batteries



Jesse B
19th November 2010, 10:46 PM
Interesting experience a week or so ago that might be useful to others re the drain on batteries when camped in one place for a while. A mate and I spent 5 nights camped in the one spot with my camper trailer whilst doing some work in the wilds of WA's south coast. The D4 was not started in that time and was disconnected from the trailer. I have dual batteries with an Optima D34 hooked up under the bonnet via a Traxide kit. During the days the car was locked up and we were miles away, with the key in my backpack. During the evenings and early mornings it was unlocked, with the key sitting about 8 metres from the drivers seat.

Most evenings we got in and out of the vehicle multiple times, fetching gear etc - so doors were regularly opened and shut, meaning lights (and, it seems, other things too) were turning on and off. I charged my phone a couple of times, and a small camera battery twice - otherwise that was it for direct draw on the batteries.

To my surprise when I unlocked it on the last (5th) morning, I got the "ding ding - low battery" warning. Started it immediately without any drama and let it idle for half an hour. Then we packed up and headed out. Upon discussing this with Tim at Traxide we figure that every time you open a door and the "Land Rover" comes up on the centre screen a lot of the computer / electronics is turning on and draining the batteries. Seems we'd had to have drawn a good 60 amps to get both batteries down to the point where this warning was triggered - which, if my thinking is right on this, just goes to show that there is a lot going on behind the scenes in there when the interior lights come on!

I'd be interested in any other thoughts about this scenario - and figured this might be useful to others who have the need or inclination to camp up in one spot for an extended period.

Bushwanderer
20th November 2010, 08:37 AM
Not surprisingly, I agree with Drivesafe. Everytime you "äctivate" part of the vehicle, the car "wakes up" increasing the battery drain. This also happens with D3s.

Fortunately, you had the auxiliary battery, otherwise the "low battery" condition would have shown up much earlier.

In my D3, I too have a second battery controlled by a Traxide kit. Nevertheless, I have purchased a solar panel and accessories (still to be installed :( ) in order to keep the battery charged in circumstances such as you describe.

The alternative is larger and/or more auxiliary batteries.

Best Wishes,
Peter

drivesafe
20th November 2010, 09:35 AM
Hi Jesse, did you find out if your mate’s phone still had Bluetooth active while you were camped?

stig0000
20th November 2010, 09:39 AM
When a door is opened the car wakes up as it thinks your about to start it.. even if u close the door the CAN systems are still active.. for at least 30 mins after the door is closed.. and left unlocked... also letting it idle will do bugger all at charging the battery... as this cars DON'T have aultenators.. they are a new type of generators.. I'm not going to bor you with how they work but simply to charge.the battery it needs to be driven..

Jesse B
20th November 2010, 09:49 AM
Hi Jesse, did you find out if your mate’s phone still had Bluetooth active while you were camped?

Tim - not yet, but I've emailed him re this, and will post the answer when I have it.

Appreciate all other responses - again, this has been a learning experience for me, and I figured it might be useful for others to understand some more of what goes on with the electronics of these brilliant vehicles. Indeed I was very glad to have the second battery as it would have been a PITB to have this occur much earlier in the expedition. It's also useful to underline the way the alternator works (or doesn't work, when idling), as that too might be useful to be aware of - thanks Stig.

Nomad9
20th November 2010, 10:07 AM
Hi Jesse B,
I have a D3 and also found out the hard way, I was doing some diagnostic work with my MSV unit and after a very short period of time I had all sorts of crazy bings and bongs going off, yeap the battery was flat, in my case flat as a tack. I recharged and then found out through this forum the incredible draw on the battery in the idle state with the ignition on.
Everytime I do diagnostics now I have my CTek unit hooked up to maintain the charge and limit the time I have the ignition on without the engine on to a minute or two max. You become a lot more proficient at operating computer software when you are under pressure.
As mentioned in your situation, I have been in a similar situation on the odd occasion, I now have a second battery (Optima) and a Piranha battery management system with the facility to hook up a 75W solar panel I now carry in the camper trailer. So far so good never been an issue. It's amazing how many times you actually go in the vehicle when you are camped, just accessing the fridge, maps, drawers to get a snack, just general checking on things.
At least you were able to start the vehicle, that was a bonus.

stig0000
20th November 2010, 11:05 AM
il try and do it as simple as posibul:angel:

basicly the my10 cars have gone away from aultenators, and now run a new type of generator, and as we all no a generator only works when its told to, as the new my10 cars have such a high power consumption they need a new type of battery witch means a new way of charging them,

basicly to make the battery last longer the car "flatens the battery' and recharges is, easyest way to explane,

your lap top battery, best chance is dead, (well mine is) and that is becose it has a constent charge going to it as its pluged in, and when i unpluged i only use a small amount of its charge and plug it back in, then its chagred but up, well the battery has a 'memory' and remebers how low it went and means when i unplug it again it will eventuly take less and less time to flaten it, so now my battery is flat in 10min,

this new battery basicly have the same memory ,, so what the car dose is flatens the battery to a point and charges it back up again, to make the battery last longer, dont think flat as in 3Vs flat it takes them down to about 12.4vs witch in landrover terms is a flat battery,

and charges it back up to about 14.7v, anymore then that and it will kill the battery, this is were the generator comes in as its able to presisly put out a set voltige, (what ever Vs the ECU tells it) now this is called the batterys drive cycle, and it verys all the time, no real 'set time' and thats why they have the battery monertring, it allso reads the current draw when the ING is off,

this is where dual batterys have played havic with cars systems, (not saying that yours has) but have had alot that have and we have proved it,

hope that makes a bit of sence as there is alot more to it but that is basicly as easy as i can explane it, ( plus it dosent help i suck a writing:wasntme:)

CaverD3
20th November 2010, 11:07 AM
Dealers hook up a charger to the battery when they use the IDS as well.

Does it still wake up the systems if you switch the interior lights to not come on.
I usually leave the tailgate open during the day when camping, never had an issue I wonder if the systems just shut down if you leave a door open.

stig0000
20th November 2010, 11:11 AM
Dealers hook up a charger to the battery when they use the IDS as well.

Does it still wake up the systems if you switch the interior lights to not come on.
I usually leave the tailgate open during the day when camping, never had an issue I wonder if the systems just shut down if you leave a door open.


yes as we need the Vs above 12.5 at least, but allso have problems if the Vs are to high,

it dose shutdown after a wile, but will make no diff with the lights on or off as to 'waking the car up'

Graeme
20th November 2010, 11:50 AM
Hi Jesse, did you find out if your mate’s phone still had Bluetooth active while you were camped?
The Bluetooth connection on my D4 is terminated when the ignition goes off unless the (base model) radio is specifically switched on.

Jesse B
20th November 2010, 02:38 PM
The Bluetooth connection on my D4 is terminated when the ignition goes off unless the (base model) radio is specifically switched on.

Yes, I thought that might be what happened - but in any case I've checked with my mate now and neither his nor my phone had bluetooth switched on. Nor did we use the radio / sound system throughout the time.

Re the doors open scenario - yes, I too try to leave the doors and tailgate open as much as possible in these situations, as both the lights and the "Land Rover" screen switch off after a while (10 min? 15 min?), so I figure that must be when they stop drawing current. But when it's drizzly and showering on and off that is not always possible! I too, wondered about shutting the lights off and whether that shut down the screen & electronics - so it's good to know that this is not the case - thanks again Stig. Thanks also for the explanation re the alternator/generator set up.

Looks like the only answer is to avoid all unnecessary door opening, even if this means transferring more gear into the camper at the start of the period - or pick fine weather and just leave all required doors open! And pack solar panels and/or gen set just in case - but I guess 5 day camps are not that common either, so keep it in perspective. Certainly makes me grateful for the dual battery set up :)

NomadicD3
20th November 2010, 09:58 PM
Hey Stig, quick question in regards to the "new type of battery"? Does this mean you would not be able to walk into a marshalls and holler for any type of battery {brand} of appropriate size?
I am planning to change the battery in the D3 to an oddessy, this will make no difference to the D3 will it?
thanks for your post mate, was a very interesting read and i appreciate the effort it takes to post the detail when you enjoy typing all that much:D

stig0000
20th November 2010, 10:16 PM
Hey Stig, quick question in regards to the "new type of battery"? Does this mean you would not be able to walk into a marshalls and holler for any type of battery {brand} of appropriate size?
I am planning to change the battery in the D3 to an oddessy, this will make no difference to the D3 will it?
thanks for your post mate, was a very interesting read and i appreciate the effort it takes to post the detail when you enjoy typing all that much:D

d3, you will be ok,, just as long its 950or higher cca,

its all good:angel:

drivesafe
21st November 2010, 05:46 AM
I had to replace the D3’s battery just before I traded it in on the D4 and I found the LR dealer was the cheapest place to get a replacement battery.:D

CaverD3
21st November 2010, 08:56 AM
I got one from Marsalls. NRMA said they had one but they didn't.
Battery world had one that suited but the posts were too far from the edge for the positive term inal to fit.
You will probably find there is a a greater range now though.